This study aims to derive the criteria of folding techniques and their characteristics through analysis of literature and previous studies. This will be realized by performing a case study on male fashion design and folding. It will propose diverse directions and data for male fashion design, by making men’s jackets using a folding technique. The concept and terms of folding were clarified through examination of existing literature and previous studies. Specifically, four pieces were created with motifs of the four seasons. Among the types of pleats expressed in the works, composition pleats include double ruffles, gathers, and draperies, while processed ones include box pleats, knife pleats, and accordion pleats. This study expresses continuity, fluidity, scalability, and ambiguity through the use of such pleats. The results of the production are as follows. First, in terms of the continuous use of regular and repetitive pleats, a possibility of rich pleats was confirmed because they varied depending on the gap between the pleat and target material. Second, in liquid but irregular pleats, diverse moods were created by the pleat movement. The overlapping of repeated pleats expresses diverse spaces and shapes in a 3D extended silhouette. Third, in pleat classification, ambiguity was confirmed with the use of continuous accordion pleats in the printed gradation fabric. It is anticipated that more diverse and creative designs could be created using more extended techniques in future studies.

A lot of work has been done on the topic of Korean traditional costume. In spite of the amount of the work, however, not much work has appeared that summarizes the overall research trend in such a way that we gain insights into the future direction of the Korean traditional costume field. This study aims to work out an analysis of the research trend that may shed light on the current status of the field and also on the things that have to be done to further develop the Korean costume design field. The analysis reported in this work is based on the articles that appeared in two journals: Journal of the Korean Society of Costume published by the Korean Society of Costume (2,661 articles from the year 1977 to 2019) and Journal of Korean Traditional Costume published by the Society of Korean Traditional Costume (762 articles from the year 1998 to 2019). The result of the analysis shows that only a very small amount of work is devoted to actual designing of Korean traditional costume, and this has to change to globalize Korean traditional fashion and draw worldwide attention to it. So more work is needed particularly on actual designing of Korean traditional costume. This does not mean that we simply have to maintain tradition and replicate the original designs, but we have to endeavor to work out novel designs by, for instance, creative destruction and restructuring, maintaining the essence of the tradition of Korean costume.

The purpose of this study was to develop contemporary Qipao design that emphasized creative feminine beauty with a unique sense beyond the concept of traditional Qipao design. This would be achieved using the expressive technique of human liberation from the oppression of the unconscious world a supported by surrealism. Using existing literature and previous research, surrealist expression technique used in fashion were investigated and analyzed. The results are as follows. First, the possibility of new and original design beyond existing surrealistic Qipao design was demonstrated through various realistic surrealism expression techniques, such as dépaysement, objet, and trompe-l’oeil techniques. This occurred by exploring various unconscious world out of fixed ideas and through expression techniques of surrealistic fashion such as imagery of body parts, metaphorical expression of objects, and position deformation and illusion. Second, Qipao design that combined objet and attempted ordinary escape by combining isolated body parts (such as hands, eyes, and lips) within the composition combine with surrealistic expression enabled various and fun surrealistic fashion designs to emerge. Third, the metaphor of surreal lips and eyes (mainly used in works of this study) presented a unique and extraordinary combination of images in accessories and partial design that used the dépaysement technique. Thus, it was possible to expand surrealistic expression by including LED wire.

Intermedia refers to the convergence of media. The advance of intermedia has not only facilitated the delivery of brand messages in contemporary fashion shows but also facilitated interactive communication. This study investigated the mediating roles played by various media in fashion and fashion shows, focusing on the phenomenon of intermedia in contemporary fashion shows. To investigate the impact of intermedia on contemporary fashion shows, we conducted a social network analysis—a promising approach for research into fashion trends. Analyzing 159 fashion-related articles published in the 2000s, we extracted intermedia-related words (n=253). The relationships between keywords made an analysis of between centrality, and cluster variables applied Clauset-Newman-Moore by using KrKwic and NodeXL programs. The results of the between centrality analysis indicated that the most important factors in contemporary fashion shows are “models” and “stages.” We found that the impacts of intermedia on contemporary fashion shows can be divided into four categories: “model performance,” “symbolic stage management,” “new media utilization,” and “convergence in arts.” Our analysis thus identified considerable synergy between the characteristics of intermedia and contemporary fashion shows. These results have found intermediarelated commonalities in intermedia and fashion show, and this might increase customer interest in fashion, a positive outcome for the fashion industry.

This study aims to develop fashion designs that combine atlas fabric with the characteristics of Uygur costume to modernize the costume of the Xinjiang Uygur. Research contents and methods are as follows. First, based on previous studies, research analysis was conducted on the cultural background, clothing characteristics, and material of Uygur clothing. Second, based on such research contents, designs combining the characteristics of Uygur costume and atlas fabric were presented. Third, to analyze the utilization of atlas fabric and examine fabric characteristics, material was gathered from collections on domestic and foreign web sites. Through field explorations of local museums in the Xinjiang area, minority group culture was observed in more detail. Based on collection of traditional clothing and analysis of its characteristics, fashion designs that apply contemporary trends were developed. General silhouettes without any restrictions to the waist and decorations made using embroidery were often used. Atlas silk, developed in China using Ikat weaving methods, is an important traditional clothing fabric of the minority group Xinjiang. Based on such data collection analysis, the produced works highlighted traditional ethnic characteristics by extracting classical patterns of atlas fabric, modifying or partially expanding them, combining them with hand knitting, and adding contemporary sensations, thus providing confirmations of the possibility of popularizing classic patterns in more practical manners.

The purpose of this study is to understand the characteristics and cultural values of the headdress among Chinese minorities with diverse ethnic cultures, and to provide various data on the design of clothing accessories. Theoretical considerations about ethnic minorities were addressed through literature and prior research, with data being collected using literature and websites. The results are as follows. First, the most common type of headdress is the horizontal type, which includes the head style, headband, and head scarf. The second most common is the cylinder type, which is a headdress with variations in the shape of a round hat, and has is evident among various minorities. Third, the pagoda type is decorated with ornaments mounted on top of a round shape. Fourth, the square crown type is a piece of wood as a material for a form of the material and for a variety of jewelry and the production of up to meet the women’s head of the jewelry. Fifth, head belt-type ornaments consist of a headband and fancy bead ornaments from the bottom of the head. Mongol women usually wear an exaggerated form of this type. Sixth, the head cover type is a head decoration influenced by the dress code of Muslim women. Seventh is the disc type of crown shape worn by the Dai. Next, the ogival type is a cone-shaped headdress hat most commonly seen as head ornament hat among the Dai. Lastly, the sailboat type is the most exaggerated form of hair ornaments found among ethnic minorities.

The study investigates Atlas fabrics, the Ikat weaving method used by the Uygur People in Xinjiang, China. Based on domestic and foreign papers and other literature, different cultural characteristics of Ikat fabrics from various regions are compared. Following a theoretical investigation, characteristics of fabrics from the Indian Patola, Indonesian Ikat, Japanese Kasuri, and Uzbekistan Adras are summarized and compared with the characteristics of pattern, color, and manufacturing process of Atlas silk from Xinjiang China (also an Ikat fabric). The results are as follows. First, although the weaving process used for Ikat fabrics differs from country to country according to different national cultures, lifestyles, colors, patterns, and usage methods, they are all Ikat dyed fabrics. Therefore, they are all regarded as precious objects symbolizing a certain social status, and are used as a gift for special occasions, such as weddings. Second, the form of the pattern varies. Indian Patola has clear outlines and regular patterns, while the patterns of Japanese Kasuri are mainly inspired by folk life ideas. Indonesian Ikat contains influences from indigenous tribes, and Uzbekistan’s and China’s Atlas textiles are influenced by geography, religion, and national culture, including bright colors and pattern designs inspired by plants, musical instruments, and geometric figures. Finally, the patterns and colors of Xinjiang Atlas fabrics present strong ethnic characteristics. Unlike the Uzbekistan fabric which is mostly influenced by Islam, human and animal patterns would not feature in Xinjiang Atlas patterns, which mostly consist of long strips, repeated in a neat and orderly form.

Intermedia is a term that refers to the convergence of different media. It has not only enabled the delivery of brand message but also developed interactive communication in a contemporary fashion show context. This study investigates the presentation methods of contemporary fashion shows affected by intermedia. We examined the research and theory related to intermedia and fashion shows by accessing articles since the 2000s concerning 252 shows by 30 designers that tended to demonstrate the use of intermedia. Our analysis highlighted four particular characteristics: “medium scalability” (the unity of art and fashion and the unity of life and fashion); “synesthetic flow” (the audience’s emotional immersion, represented by the actual performance and performances of the models); “participatory accessibility” (performance participation through action and instrumental support); and “immaterial symbolization” (an intuitive symbol that emphasizes both the direct outward appearance and the metaphorical symbolism so that the object is expressed in a figurative sense). From these results, we identified considerable synergy between the characteristics of intermedia and contemporary fashion shows. Therefore, it might be useful to conduct an experimental study on this area of research.

The purpose of this study is to analyze the eco-friendly design characteristics of contemporary children’s collections. Photos from FirstviewKorea were utilized for analysis; 29 brands were selected that included children’s clothing collections featuring eco-friendly characteristics from 2007 to 2018. The results are as follows. First, naturalness was the most frequent characteristic of environmentally friendly children’s collections. It was not conveyed in an eccentric way in any season, showed a relatively uniform distribution, and was seen in various ways, including printed on the fabric and expressed in appliqués and embroidery. Second, handcrafted features frequently changed according to seasonal trends. Various methods such as beading, embroidery, applique, sewing techniques, and handbags were used, which enhanced manual workability, discrimination from other designs. Third, traditionality is divided into the characteristics of ethnicity and revivalism. National traditions were expressed in the clothing and reflected the current generation while connecting to the past. Fourth, simplicity appeared in classic designs such as simple silhouettes, sparse decoration, natural colors, and comfortable dress length that is not tight on the body. Simplicity was not a frequent feature due to the characteristics of the children’s clothing collections. Fifth, playfulness functioned to enhance the children’s clothing’s wear frequency. Although it was the least frequent of all the characteristics, it seemed to increase the design fun and the clothing’s value by fusing with other characteristics such as handcraftedness and naturalness.

This study examines the characteristics of expressing hippie styles in contemporary women’s collections and analyzes them to benefit future fashion design and research. This study reviewed advanced research, fashion magazines, and information providers. The advanced research determined the study’s scope by pinpointing the designers who introduced the hippie style into their collections. The results are as follows: First, the reproduced hippie style appears as the combination of various colors and materials, a convergence or mixture of styles, or the use of collage or patchwork. It employs natural silhouettes or varied colors and materials, which makes the renewed hippie style more luxurious than in the past. Second, the reproduced hippie style emphasizes and distinguishes between two types of femininity: a girlish, romantic image using A-line silhouettes and, bright, gleaming colors, and a sexy version that boldly exposes the body or women’s curves and, uses soft and flexible materials. Third, the exotic tendencies found in the reproduced hippie style reflect the characteristics of the times, folk costume, or eastern or western features perceived as exotic. Recently, traditional costumes have changed slightly to recall characteristics found in the past. Fourth, the reproduced hippie style reflects hippies’ affection for and interest in nature by using environmentally-friendly materials like natural fibers. Flowers, the symbol of hippies, appear most frequently.

This study is aimed at applying the philosophical concept of “différance” to contemporary men’s fashion design, which could effectively show the shift in thinking. For the study method, the author examined the theoretical background of deconstruction and prepared the standard of analysis by organizing the concept of “différance,” which exists at the center of philosophy. This study selected the three most popular brands: Maison Margiela, Comme des Garcons, and Yohji Yamamoto. The results are as follows. First, there is expression of perpetual reservation emphasizing time. This includes texture, patchworks, hems with ladder, and exposure of seam that expresses the trace of time flow and delayed delivery of immediate meaning, and the expression creates delay between major and minor and leads to consistent role exchange. Second, the trace of blank that emphasizes the space gives a visual sense of weight on spares with the intentionally granted space, as well as the space that is the trace of trace and creates a sense of depth through the direction of empty space. Third, the space created in the process of wearing cloth is visualized, the structure of clothing is deconstructed, and the movement from the process recomposes the shape of space and expands the definition that enables expansion of time and space. Fourth, the undetermined relationship expresses the border of time and space visually and deconstructs time and space. The approaches are mostly constructive, demonstrating an avant-garde form of clothes-wearing to show the non-form or imbalance condition.

The aim of this study is to develop new wedding dress designs by blending the traditional female Korean upper garment of Han-bok, known as dang-ui, with Western-style wedding dress designs. For this research, the author considered the various types of wedding dresses and their historical development based on literary resources and previous studies of the subject. The results are as follows: first, this study featured the use of different types of fabric for the dang-ui, selected from the various fabrics available for wedding dresses. Starting from the basic design of a sleeveless and strapless princess-line tight top, three different styles of A-line dresses were created: a tiered long dress, an unbalanced tiered midi dress, and a spangled and pleated mini dress. The study also resulted in a tight H-line mini dress with a bustle. In this way, the author was able to suggest new wedding dress styles that are well suited to the cultural trend of the Korean wave. Second, the traditional Korean dang-ui is an elegant ceremonial garment that harmonizes well with Western-style wedding dresses. Satisfaction can be found from combining these creative fusion gowns with traditional Korean aesthetics. Third, the traditional Korean ceremonial coronet jokduri and veil, which go well with dang-ui wedding dresses, are suitable accessories for contemporary wedding dresses. The dang-ui wedding dress, a result of merging the Korean dang-ui and the Western style, will help enhance business for both the Korean and the international wedding industry thanks to an aesthetic that has global appeal.

This study suggests a new perspective for designing men’s tailored jackets by more carefully considering human muscle structure. For this study, we examined research regarding the construction of the tailored jacket that is based on costume history references, as well as research regarding human muscle structure that is based on human anatomy references and the analysis of recent fashion designs illustrating the human body image. Based on this research, we developed various tailored constructions that account for human muscle structure. These constructions are applied primarily to the backs of four tailored jackets, as the back of the jacket needs a mechanism to accommodate the wearer’s movement. The following conclusions have been derived from the study: First, by developing the tailored garment structure that accounts for the muscle structure of the human body, we suggest a new design direction for tailored garments. Second, we propose a new type of tailored jacket structure for the back of the jacket that incorporates an artificial muscle structure to accommodate the wearer’s activities. This new type of jacket indicates the potential for designs that use structure, particularly the structure of the human body. Finally, by using the embroidery technique, we changed the texture of the material into the shape of human muscle. Thus, we propose a design that uses three-dimensional volume to accounts for the shape of human body tissue.

The purpose of this study is to suggest a direction for the development of unlined underwear design. A style for unlined underwear can take strong points and compensate for weak points by using the characteristics of wire brassieres and bralettes. As a method for research, we based our study on literature and data such as previous studies, professional books, internet articles, and fashion magazines. As a result of analyzing the brassiere’s status in lines like ‘FOREVER 21’ and ‘VICTORIA’S SECRET’, we determined that ‘FOREVER 21’ reflects the trend of unlined style underwear, and ‘VICTORIA’S SECRET’ has both unlined and wire brassieres to make breast correction. In the case of unlined style brassieres, a wire is put in order to gather the chest for compromising comfort and correction. In order to express the possibility of expressing various feelings even in unlined style, Design 1 lets everyone know that unlined underwear can be very comfortable as a daily, not used only occasionally for events. Design 2 demonstrates that besides the artificial feeling of using the strap for a special day or event, it can be expressed naturally by using the lace as it is. Design 3 expresses the luxurious and sexy, rather than the low-grade decadent sexy, by using the feeling of the single layer lace and the pearl decoration for wedding and honeymoon.

The purpose of this study is to serve as a reference for creative fashion design by analyzing the types and aesthetic characteristics of trompe l’oeil in contemporary men’s fashion. This research is an empirical study that utilizes both qualitative and quantitative methods to analyze fashion design cases and research articles such as academic papers and professional books. The study covers four major men’s collections: Paris, Milan, New York, and London. The period being analyzed is from 2005 Spring/Summer, which is widely regarded as a turning point at which men’s collections began rapidly, to 2019 Spring/Summer. The study analyzes 471 photos from domestic and international websites, with the following results. Types of trompe l’oeil in contemporary male fashion are classified into four types: (1) the deconstruction of clothing forms or creation methods, (2) optical illusions that create the effect of multiple layers of clothing on a single article of clothing and the reproduction of apparel details and clothing using 2D printing or embroideries, (3) realistic patterns on garments to create a camouflage effect, and (4) articles of clothing containing body images such as the chest, trunk, or internal human anatomy. These aesthetic characteristics in men’s fashion design using types of trompe l’oeil are playful, deconstructive, and decorative features based on hyper-reality. This study aims to acknowledge trompe l’oeil as being widely used in contemporary men’s fashion as a type of formative art, playing a crucial role in creative fashion design.

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics and symbolism of peony, the traditional noble flower, create knit fashion designer applying the aesthetic beauty of flower, and suggest the various possibility of developing knit fashion design. As for the study method, the study conducted review on literature and previous studies to investigate on history, characteristics, symbolism of peony, and examined various expressive technique through previous studies about fashion design using flower images. To express characteristics of peony in three dimensions, the study investigated and reflected on crochet expressive technique to design 4 women’s knitwear. The results are as below. First, as shape of peony is big, voluminous, fancy and noble, it symbolizes wealth and beauty. Including red which is the generally known color of peony, there are yellow, white, pink, purple, green, blue, black, gray, white purple, white color. This study reflected characteristics and symbolism of peony and created knit fashion design applying abundant aesthetic characteristics of flower. Second, crochet method is advantageous as it is operable with thread and hooked crochet hook without time and space restriction, it can create unique fashion design. Crochet knitting on hand knit can diversity changes to express relief textures, and as there is no limit in size, it can be applied to small props to big pieces. This study suggested the various possibility of knit fashion design development and various expressive possibility on modern fashion design.

The purpose of this study is to collect and analyze costumes presented in international dance sports competitions, and summarize the features of Latin American dance costumes’ design. As for research methods, standards of Latin American dance costume design were analyzed via a literature review on dance sports. The scope of the study extended for six years from 2010 to 2015 to include the, top three UK Latin American dance competitions. The results are as follows. First, the silhouette analysis determined that the X silhouette to the lead with, −145 costumes (78%), followed by the H silhouette at 25 (13%), and other at 16 (9%). Amongst those there were 174 one-piece dresses (94%). Furthermore, the analysis on colors of Latin American dance sports costumes revealed that, amongst the 186 costumes, 115 were without color (62%), Bl(black) is the most frequent with 37%, then Wh(white) with 21% and Gr(gray) with 4%. Costumes with colors, based on the six basic colors in the Munsell color system, are comprised most often of red with 12%, the followed by Y(yellow) at 10%, B(blue) at 8%, YR(yellow-red) at 4%, P(purple) at 2%, and G(green) at 2%. Thirdly, the cloth materials of Latin American dance costumes are recognized through image inspection. Among visually recognizable materials, beading materials are the most common with 104 costumes (60%). Shiny materials like mesh, chiffon, organza, lace and burn-out are in 36 costumes in total (19%). Other cloth materials included Luster materials and; non-sheen materials, which were in 46 costumes (25%).

The purpose of this study is to illustrate the design of safety suits based on energy-harvesting technology, particularly targeting street cleaners who must work at night with high mobility. The design focuses on applying lightweight energyharvesting tools and illuminant into the wear. The design development reflects feedback from testers collected via survey constituting a key methodology. The development process has two main stages. Each stage uses a process of design prototyping, internal examination, test sampling, test wearing, and wearers’ feedback via survey that consists of questions on visibility, wearing convenience, and washability. The first stage results show the design of safety suits with energy-harvested LED illuminant inserted and the survey results collected from street cleaners dressed in 4 sample and 80 actual suits in total. Improved based on the first-stage survey results, the second stage designs the suits with detachable energy-harvested EL tape. From these 5 sample and 30 actual second-stage suits, the additional survey indicates that this second-stage design facilitates more visibility and convenience in washing and wearing than the first-stage design. Accordingly, one can expect that this new design can apply not only to safety suits for night workers but also to handicapped or outdoor sportswear applications in the future.

This study analyzes characteristics related to Kineticism found in different kinds of displays and arts in order to contemplate modern window displays. The standard of analysis is based on kinetic arts pioneer George Rickey’s six display factors. Projection features and movements were categorized into “Direct movements,” “Indirect movements,” and “Relative movements.” Results were obtained through analysis of different examples of each category. First, the most observed form of Kineticism was direct movements on the window display. Along with the development of science and techniques, a variety of divergent motional methods has arisen. After that followed indirect movement, which uses visual media and lights for presentation. The third was relative movements, which provides communication in practical experience; users’ motion is used to provide modification in vision. Fourth, we observed that direct movements and indirect movements can express fluidity depending on materials, inducing a sense of tension within the window display through visual stimuli together with dynamism from mechanical exposure. Fifth, when direct movements pair with relative movements, it triggers customer participation; though it does not deliberately induce participation, the effects are beyond expectation. Sixth, if indirect movements meet relative movements, the motion of lights offers a major stimulation to the customers along with various expressions, thus achieving an interactive domain.

The purpose of this study is to analyze Alexander Wang’s collections representing the athleisure look, and suggest a multilateral direction for fashion design based on the data. The present study examines literature, journals, and mass media to define the athleisure look and understand the background of its emergence, and assess its key design characteristics. The collections examined are from 2007 fall/winter to 2017 spring/summer, and T by Alexander Wang from 2011 spring/summer to 2016 fall/ winter. A total of 446 photos were collected and verified by a group of experts. The characteristics of the athleisure look in Alexander Wang’s collections were described by the following themes: dynamism (39.46%), unexpectedness (34.30%), sensuality (14.57%), and resistance (11.65%). Results revealed a number of findings: First, regarding the sensuality of the athleisure look found in Alexander Wang’s collections, it was found to exhibit the lines of the human body and highlight sexiness and healthy beauty - with either direct or indirect body exposure. Second, the concept of dynamism is the most frequently seen - utilizing items with a comfortable or loose fit or materials that are flexible to enhance activity. Third, resistance appears as a specific style using aggressive and rough decorations. Alexander Wang’s signature color, black, appears often, and showcases resistance through black clothing and fashion. Fourth, the unexpectedness of the athleisure look found in Alexander Wang’s collections creates its own uniqueness with playful expressions made by various materials’ mixed and matched or made visually fun.