본 연구는 한국의 대학에 재학하고 있는 한국인 여대생과 중국인 여대생을 대상으로 캐주얼 셔츠 소재의 주관적인 감각과 선호도의 차이를 파악하고자 수행되었다. 춘추용 캐주얼 셔츠의 소재로 시판되는 소재 중에서 섬유조성이 상이한 7가지 종류의 흰색 셔츠 직물을 선정하였다. 캐주얼 셔츠 소재에 대한 주관적 감각 및 촉감 선호도의 평가자는 한국인 여대생과 중국인 여대생으로 40명이었다. 참가자들은 7종 소재를 관찰하고 나서 주관적인 감각과 촉감 선호도에 대한 평가를 설문지를 사용하여 작성하였다. 캐주얼 셔츠 소재의 주관적 감각을 요인분석한 결과, 평활감, 경량감, 유연감, 신축감의 4개 요인으로 분류되었다. 주관적 감각 요인은 소재의 섬유조성별 국적에 따라 부분적으로 유의한 차이를 보였다. 한국인 여대생은 중국인 여대생 보다 면 100% 소재를 더 가볍다고 평가하였고, 폴리에스터 50%/모달 50% 소재와 P100 소재를 더 신축성이 있다고 평가하였으나, 중국인 여대생은 폴리에스터 50%/면 45%/스판덱스 5% 소재를 더 가볍다고 평가하였다. 캐주얼 셔츠 소재의 섬유조성별 촉감 선호도는 국적에 따라 유의한 차이를 보였다. 한국인 여대생은 중국인 여대생에 비해 면 80%/폴리에스터 20% 소재, 폴리에스터 50%/면 45%/스판덱스 5% 소재, 아마 100% 소재를 더 선호하였다. 한편, 캐주얼 셔츠 소재의 주관적 감각 요인이 촉감 선호도에 미치는 영향은 국적에 따른 차이를 보였다. 한국 여대생의 경우, 평활감과 유연감이 캐주얼 셔츠 소재의 촉감 선호도에 긍정 적 영향을 미치는 반면, 중국인 여대생은 평활감, 유연감, 신축감이 촉감 선호도에 긍정적 영향을 미치는 것을 알 수 있었다. 이처럼 캐주얼 셔츠 소재에 대한 주관적 감각 및 촉감 선호도는 한국인 여대생과 중국인 여대생간의 차이를 보였다. 따라서 여대생을 대상으로 캐주얼 셔츠 소재 기획시 이러한 감성의 차이를 반영하는 것이 필요하다.

The purpose of this study is to create a shirt sloper suitable for an elderly male body shape by producing virtual models using a 3D-virtualization program, making a torso prototype using the Yuka CAD system, and employing 3D simulation to virtualize and calibrate the model. First, the following three types of obese dummies are implemented through the CLO 3D program: Type 1 exhibits body fat in the lower body; Type 2 exhibits an obese abdomen; and Type 3 displays a balanced form of obesity. Second, for the design of the shirt pattern, the waist back length (measured value+1), back armhole depth (C/10+12+3+0.5~1.5), front armhole depth (back armhole depth 0~1), front interscye (2C/10‒1+0.5‒0.5), armscye depth (C/10+2+3.5+ 0.5), back interscye (2C/10‒1+1), front chest C (C/4+2.5+1), back chest C (C/4+2.5‒1), front hem C (C/4+2.5+1(+2)), back hem C (C/4+2.5‒1(+2)), cap height (AH/3‒5), and biceps width (Front AH‒1, Back AH‒1) are calculated. Third, the virtual attachment of the shirt pattern is resolved by increasing the front and back armhole depths, and the front and rear wrinkles are improved by adding a back armhole dart. The front hem lift and lateral pull caused by the protrusion of the abdomen are amended by increasing the margin of the chest, waist C, and hip C, with the appearance improved by balanced margin distribution in the front, back, and side panels. The improved retail pattern with an increase in the front armholes C was balanced on the torso plate.

For design research of teenagers' posture correcting shirt, postures of teenagers were analyzed and became the base of inventing suitable patterns. The subjects of this study were 198 of both female and male middle school students from the city of Seoul. Students' postures in classroom and length change of body surface were observed and analyzed; based on this, total of 5 postures was selected, and length changes of body surface were applied. The patterns in this study were designed with stretch material to help antagonism by muscle movements. Each fabric that was used in this study had 110% of stretch, 120~140% of stretch, and 150~170% of stretch. Both of one-way-fabric and duplex-fabric were used in this study, depending on application site.

This study aims to compare the ease of shirt patterns in the men's wear market that have been constantly developing, and to analyze the fitness and appearance through the 3D virtual try-on system. The study selected three industrial patterns and two educational materials of classic-fit and slim-fit shirts for a total of ten items. The experiments involved virtual wearing, a stress contact point perspective map, and appearance evaluations. First, the ease differed significantly in the chest, waist, and sleeve cap height according to the patterns. Second, based on the stress, contact point, and transparency, there was ease in the order of Nam, D-brand, J-brand, Park, and S-brand in the classic-fit shirts while the order of D-brand, Nam, J-brand, Park, and S-brand resulted in the slim-fit shirts. Third, in the appearance evaluation, higher points resulted in the order of J-brand, Park, S-brand, D-brand, and Nam in both classic-fit and slim-fit. The results showed that proper ease differs greatly by shirt-fit and target age. Also, the shirts with more ease tended to be evaluated less favorably in the appearance evaluation. Based on the results, the study suggests that the proper ease in chest circumference is 18cm for the classic-fit shirts and 6 cm for the slim-fit shirts.

The purpose of this study was to investigate the demand for functional elements of sports climbing shirts. Questionnaire survey data were collected from adult (n=53) and adolescent (n=55) sports climbers. The questionnaire explored respondents' sports climbing activities and need for functional design features of sports climbing shirts. Their design preferences and purchasing value were also investigated. The results showed that respondents regarded ergonomic design and the use of intelligent material as important elements of expert-level sports climbing shirts. Compared to adolescent, adult respondents were more susceptive to functional design elements such as suitability for climbing motions and ease of dressing or undressing. Also, adult sports climbers were more likely than adolescents to prefer shirts that are tightly fit at the chest. Neither adults nor adolescents favored shirts design that is tightly fit at the neck or armpit. The regular shirts length not covering hips and sleeve length ending at the wrist were preferred. The collar stand should not hit the chin. Adult climbers preferred ergonomically designed sleeves on the back shoulder. Adults and adolescents had different preferences for the front neck zipper length. Adults preferred long front zipper length at chest. These findings suggest that sports climbing shirts should have functional features to prevent interference with climbing movements and improve convenience and stability.

본 연구는 남성셔츠 소재의 선염 줄무늬 특성에 따른 시각적 감성 이미지의 차원을 알아보고 소비자들의 감성을 만족시키는 남성셔츠 소재용 줄무늬 디자인 개발을 위한 기초정보를 얻고자 하는 것이다. 본 연구 결과 남성셔츠 줄무늬 감성은 매력성, 성숙성, 품위성, 실용성, 단순성의 5가지 차원으로 구분되었다. 남성셔츠 소재 줄무늬의 특성이 감성 차원 및 선호도와 구매 욕구에 밀접한 관계가 있었다. 색상, 배열, 간격 등 줄무늬의 특성이 남성셔츠 소재의 시각적 감성에 유의한 영향을 미치고 두 가지 두께의 부등간격 줄무늬 조합이 매력성, 실용성이 높기 때문에 선호된다는 것을 확인하였다. 또한 대조되는 복합색의 줄무늬가 매력성이 높으므로 선호되는 것으로 나타났다.

본 연구는 빨간색 셔츠의 시각적 감성을 비교 분석하여 소비자 감성을 반영한 셔츠의 색채기획에 도움을 주고자, 한국과 중국 대학생을 대상으로 온라인상에서 시각적 평가방법으로 7가지 톤의 빨간색 색지와 빨간색 셔츠에 대한 시각적 감성과 선호도를 평가하였다. 평가된 자료는 빈도 분석, 평균, 요인 분석, t-test를 실시하여 분석하였다. 빨간색 셔츠의 시각적 감성은 스포티, 로맨틱, 클래식 등 3개의 감성요인이 추출되었는데, 이 요인들은 톤, 성과 국적에 따라 유의한 차이가 나타났다. 중국 대학생은 한국 대학생에 비해 strong톤의 빨간색 셔츠가 더 스포티하고, dark톤이 더 클래식하다고 지각하였다. 또한 한국 대학생은 deep톤의 빨간색 셔츠를 로맨틱하다고 평가하였으나, 중국 대학생은 light톤과 pale톤의 셔츠를 로맨틱하다고 평가하였다. 한편, 7가지 톤의 빨간색 셔츠에 대한 선호도는 국적 및 성에 따라 유의한 차이를 보였다. 중국 대학생은 한국 대학생보다 dark톤과 pale톤의 빨간색 셔츠를 더 구매하고 싶어 하였으나, 한국 대학생은 strong톤의 셔츠를 더 선호하였다. 또한 남자 대학생이 dark와 dull톤의 빨간색 셔츠를 더 선호하는 반면, 여자 대학생은 light톤의 빨간색 셔츠를 더 선호하였다.

The purpose of this study was to develop a shirt pattern that enhances the functionality of golf swing motions. The pattern was made with 3D body surface shape data that changed according to dynamic golf postures. The data were collected from the golf swing motions. The 3D body surface data in golf swing postures piled up on the 3D surface data in a static posture. The results showed that the surface shape data changed more in the address, back swing, and finish postures than the other swing postures. The experimental pattern was developed with 3D surface scan data in those three golf swing motions. The pattern had raglan sleeves and the front-bodied piece was divided into two pieces with a princess line, which comes from armscye line of the address posture. The back bodice piece was divided into three pieces with a yoke line and a back princess line. The yoke line was made by back shoulder shape in the back swing posture. The level of comfort of the experimental garment and commercial golf shirts was evaluated by 38 women golfers. The experimental garment pattern was evaluated to be more comfortable in golf swing postures than commercial golf shirts.

The aim of this study was to develop a pattern of flight attendant uniform shirts to provide better comfort for their work postures. Flight attendants’ work postures were evaluated to determine the problems of clothing and mobility during their work. The pattern of the flight attendants’ uniform shirt was altered by applying dynamic wearing ease(DWE). DWE was calculated from four standardized dynamic postures and a static posture. An experimental garment was made with the altered postures. The researcher redesigned the pattern of the uniform shirts, which minimizes physical limitations in movements. The fit and mobility of the shirts were evaluated. Results of this study are as follows. First, the five representative work postures were selected by “clothing stress” and “repetitiveness.” These postures included raised arms, twisting midriff and shoulder postures. Five representative postures were selected by using the ergonomic posture assessment device index(OWAS). Second, the experimental garment was developed by applying DWE across the back and at armhole depth, back length, and side length. Third, the fit and mobility of the experimental garments and the original uniform shirts were compared at the flight working environment set and 5 dynamic body postures of raising arms. The experimental garments made with an altered pattern provided better fit and mobility than the original sample shirts.

This study aims to help understanding on design of basic pattern of shirt collars and to suggest schemes to raise completeness of shape by reviewing problems shown in finished products after sewing. From March 2009 to August 2009, 12 patterns for education and firms were collected centering on basic shirt collar form respectively. There are four problems generally raised from a completed shirt collar. In case of overlapping shirt collar on front neck point, the sewing point of shirt collar should be drawn at front neck point of collar band at a distance of about 0.2～0.3cm, and the center front of band and one of bodice should be arranged in a straight line. In case of the problem about right and left length difference of shirt collar, it is raised by closing so the problem was solved by prolonging about 0.2 cm of the center front of left collar. It was evaluated that adjusting notch point when sewing would be more rational solution than solving something on patterns for distance difference problem of shirt collar between right and left part at center front. And a problem about getting loose of front garment between collar band below and the first button was also raised. It was designed 0.2cm cut of collar band. Around basic shirt collar form, above mentioned solutions are applied to the patterns for education and manufacture experimental clothing. So as a result of sensory evaluation, generally good ratings on all items were received.

The current study aims to link Korean tradition to modern culture; to re-produce patterns of lotus depicted in Minwha, The study also aims to discover the beauty of Korean tradition and to modernize it. The current study is based upon document searches(including research papers) and the Internet searches. Through these searches, it investigates the concept of Minhwa, the origin of lotus depiction and its symbolic meanings, the traits of such pattern. Based upon this investigation, the study attempts to modernize the patterns of lotus and apply the modernized patterns to designing shirts. The process which employs the lotus patterns illustrated in Minhwa to shirt design includes four sub-processes: selecting, allocating, coloring, and selecting production techniques. The subprocess of selecting patterns is two folded: the first stage covers carbon-copying the distinctive features of lotus, lotus leaf, lotus bud, lotus pip, and lotus stem; the second stage is making these features suitable to shirt sizes. For the process of coloring those shirts, Piccaso’s work(Pablo Picasso, 1881～1973) has been selected and the colors in his work have been adopted to dye the rest of the shirts as well as the lotus features. The process of selecting production techniques includes ornament tail in order to modernize the patterns allocated in the shirts. Once these processes are completed, the shirts are made on a scale of real-life size. These processes of creating shirt design by modernizing traditional patterns will hopefully contribute to researchers expanding the domain of shirt design.

This study aims to express the androgynous image via shirts as a fashion item. Shirts are widely worn as a fashion item regardless of sex and age, with growing importance as a casual outer, with the increase in leisure activities driven by the recent implementation of the 5-Day Work Week system in Korea. As for the theoretical background, the study was reviewed previous studies of books, thesis, a series of publication, and the Internet sites on this topic. Through a careful analysis of these previous studies, it designed and made shirts that inspired by androgynous image. Conclusions of this study are as follows: First, the study found that meanings of symbolism in clothing continue to change, not fixed at all, depending on historic and cultural environments, and so does symbolism for femininity and masculinity of clothing. Second, shirts are widely worn as a fashion item regardless of sex and age, with growing importance as a casual outer, with the increase in leisure activities driven by the recent implementation of the 5-Day Work Week system in Korea. Third, two patters were used for the work in this study in order to emphasize its form, along with mono color white and stripe patterns. For materials, cotton and blend as a most basic material for a shirt were used with unique variations in the form. Fourth, decorative details or trimming such as ribbon tying methods, shirring, attaching in layers, and irregular pleading widely used for women’s wear were applied, and silhouettes with strong drape feelings were used to add feminine feature to men’ shirts, in an effort to propose a fashion design of the androgynous look. Fifth, clothes proposed in this study are different from feminine clothing item blouse, because they are androgynous shirts mixing masculinity and femininity. Stiff pads were used in collars and cuffs characteristics of men’s traditional shirts to maintain masculinity of a shirt, and design was developed by adding feminine decorative elements, which is different from women’s blouse.