This study explores the contemporary reinterpretation of traditional suit design through the lens of post-structuralist philosopher Jacques Derrida’s concept of decentralization. The objective is to systematically analyze the diverse expression methods of decentralized suits in contemporary fashion and identify their design characteristics, thus exploring various design possibilities for decentraliz suits. To achieve this, the study examines the deconstructivist fashion collections of notable designers such as Martin Margiela, Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons, Alexander McQueen, and Thom Browne, analyzing 269 decentralized suits from their men’s collections from 2009 to the present. The methods of decentralization are categorized based on the structure (composition), details, and materials of the garments, are classified into deconstruction, discontinuity, and disorder. Specific expression methods include irregular wearing, layering, asymmetry, and distortion for deconstruction; omission, heterogeneous insertion, material transition, and separation for discontinuity; and tearing, graffiti, and unfinished elements for disorder. The identified design characteristics are as follows: gender-neutral and category-free, which dismantles the rigid formality and masculine image of suits to allow flexible and diverse gender expressions; integration of unconventional elements, which combines traditional suit design with non-traditional details like ruffles, strings, unfinished edges, and graffiti to create new designs; and sustainable design, which utilizes the deconstruction and recombination of existing suits to recycle discarded suits, making it suitable for upcycling.

The purpose of this study is to contribute to the role of lines in creative design development by analyzing the expression types and aesthetic characteristics of modern fashion using geometric formativeness of symmography. A literature study was conducted of works since 2009 to examine the general consideration of lines together with analysis of the concept and characteristics of symmography in the formative arts field, and to analyze the expression types and aesthetic characteristics of modern fashion design using the formativeness of symmography. The infinite sense of formativeness and original expression of symmography are used in formative arts such as space design, installation art, and industrial design. Expression types of modern fashion design using geometric formativeness of symmography can be classified into the following three types: two-dimensional graphic pattern, relief surface, and threedimensional spatial. First, the two-dimensional graphic pattern type forms an optical pattern, providing individuality and visual interest to the textile design. Second, the relief surface type expresses the plane in various ways, so that the thickness changes according to how lines overlap. Third, the three-dimensional spatial type expands the boundaries of clothing and creates a fantastic spatial beauty. Next, the aesthetic formativeness of fashion design using symmography can be classified into repetitive rhythmicity, geometric self-similarity, and optical spatiality. Symmography enables a myriad of geometric patterns to be developed depending on material, color, and the designer’s imagination, and helps inspire a variety of designs in fashion that sculpt a three-dimensional human body.

Crowdsourcing models in which organizaions obtain needed product ideas and services from a crowd in a network-based society are rising as a global industry trend. The purpose of this study was to figure out the types and characteristics of crowdsourcing design shown in the domestic fashion brands, and to provide implications for design strategies using crowdsourcing. This study was based on qualitative research which was brand case studies on crowdsourcing design in the fashion industry from January 2006 to July 2017. Also, quantitative analysis using frequency and percentage was applied. The results were as follows: First, crowdsourcing design was used in almost all types of fashion brands, such as sports and outdoor wear, men’s wear, women’s wear, men’s and women’s casual wear, shoes, bags, school uniforms, jeans, accessories, etc. Crowdsourcing design in the fashion industry was classified into three types: crowdsourcing graphics and artwork; crowdsourcing customized designs; and crowdsourcing product designs. Of the three types, crowdsourcing graphics and artwork was used most. There were four methods to choose the best crowsourced design: review only by experts, voting by crowd and review by experts, crowdvoting, and crowdfunding. Second, the characteristics of crowdsourcing design were openness, participation, reward and acknowledgement, sharing and interaction, and individualized collective intelligence. Crowdsourcing design could be used as an open innovation strategy in the fashion industry, which could collect new and creative design ideas for product development, resulting in the satisfaction of consumers and benefitting the company.

This study proposes that Malevich's 1913 performance “Victory Over the Sun” was not just Cubo Futurism, but that it produced Suprematism in the early 20th century. “Victory Over the Sun” did away with traditional set and costume design and a call to the Russian avant garde. Therefore, this study analyzes the characteristics of set and the costume design in “Victory Over the Sun”, and considers how it impacted twenty-first century fashion designers like Margiela. The results of the study are as follows: first, Margiela reinterpreted the characteristics of the costumes featured on “Victory Over the Sun” from a cubist perspective and represented geometric spatial structures and mechanical human images through changes in methods and materials. second, he designed costumes by applying to the set and costumes expressed black & white images on “Victory Over the Sun”. and third, Margiela reinterpreted the warrior image using geometric forms and colors in a creative way. Contemporary fashion designers, including Margiela, express their artistic creativity through various representational and materials choices. They want to convey their subjective personality and emotional sensibility to the public by mixing and deforming existing arts like painting, sculpture, and crafts to create new images. Thus, the creative intentions of the latest fashion designers have expanded art of costume design, exemplifying the process by which art is evolves and is made new.

The structural aesthetics of architecture are becoming an inspirational source for many fashion designers and have been reborn in structural fashion. This study planned to analyze the method of expression of structural aesthetics expressed in modern structural fashion design and the construction method to maximize such an effect on the basis of the construction characteristic of Santiago Calatrava as the representative architect of the structural aesthetic. According to the study, the structural aesthetics expressed in modern structural fashion design are as follows: 1) The symbolical formative aesthetic expressed by symbolical inference and analyzation; 2) the dynamic beauty of physic expressed by visual emphasis and dynamics; and 3) the asymmetric beauty of symmetry expressed by metastasis toward the boundary between balance and imbalance. In addition, to maximize structural aesthetics, we used repetition and a progressive technique based on rhythm, asymmetry, and incision-based variances, such as balance, polygon flux, and inference, and analyzation-based distortion as the structuring principle. The following expression methods for maximizing structural aesthetics were found: 1) symbolical and structural exaggeration of appearance; 2) detail technique expansion and material property diversification; and 3) the three-dimensional transformation of structure and shell expression. Structural fashion design was found to have maximized structural aesthetics by using such expression methods to secure artistic esthetics, destroy existing shapes and patterns, and create unique shapes.

This study attempted to figure out the usage of the modular system in other fields through literature review and empirical study, analyze its structural method in fashion. After analyzing architecture & product-related books, the Internet data and previous studies, the modular system's five structural methods were obtained. Then, 991 photos of women's clothes from 2003 to 2014 were collected through the fashion websites in Korea and abroad. The results can be summarized as follows: First, the following five structures were derived: assembling structure, overlapping structure, arrangement structure, inserting structure and folding structure. Second, according to analysis on the structural method of the modular system in modern fashion, overlapping structure (34%) was the most common. Third, in fashion, the use of fastener for installation and removal is important for assembling structure. In terms of overlapping structure, 3D volume by vertical accumulation was commonly observed. Arrangement structure revealed a horizontal and flat shape through simple arrangement. In inserting structure, on the contrary, non-standardized modules were used as a part of clothes or decorative elements. In folding structure, origami technique for reduction and expansion was used.

The purpose for this paper is to categorize and analyze the aesthetic characteristics of graphic factors in contemporary fashion design by media source. Focused on play-instinct visual expression in contemporary fashion design and adopted media source following the way of communication design. A variety of literatures and online sites for graphic factors in contemporary fashion was studied. The standard of media source is classified as graphic media-source: photography media-source, typography media-source, illustration media-source. With this standard, expressed ways are as followings. First, graphic media-source in play-instinct expressional fashion design is mostly borrowing existed character or using designer’s brand logo. Second, photography media-source in play-instinct expressional fashion design is placed photograph of social issued people in front of shirt. Third, typography media-source in play-instinct expressional contemporary fashion design is mostly expressed social messages or designer’s name in brand. Fourth, illustration media-source is the best way to express play-instinct visual expression. Based on these, aesthetic characteristics of graphic factor in contemporary fashion by media source are classified as three: social words, playfulness and information transference. Frequency ratio using media source per aesthetic characteristics is different and these are able to categorize expression way and image feature. In conclusion, expressional way of graphic factors in contemporary fashion design became diverse as social and cultural changing. Frequency of graphic factor use in contemporary fashion is increased than before. This paper suggested that fashion design is one of the way of communicating with people and should be analyzed graphic factors in contemporary fashion design.

The analysis of an art trend in the principle dimension starts by observing the object of work in the perspective of formative composition and recognizing it as a universal system. It can be said that it is consistent with an interpretation method for a form theory of formal history by Heinrich Wölfflin, a leading form critic in art criticism. Hence, the purpose of this study was to find out what are the formative principles in Renaissance Classicism as a design principle to be applicable to modern fashion by reviewing the formative characteristics of Renaissance Classicism Architecture with which Wölfflin directly dealt. As for the theoretical literature review, I used Wölfflin's theoretical framework and looked at the Renaissance Classicism Architecture that he studied and examined the possibility of utilizing his theory as a layout principle and the characteristics. As for analysis of design cases, I applied the aforementioned architecture layout principle to modern fashion and conducted case study analysis to delve into distinctive layout principles found in fashion. The study showed that the Renaissance Classicism Architectural Style is marked by linearity, planarity, closing and multiple unity: linearity was expressed in the observation form in fixed frontal view and an emphasis on a tangible silhouette homeogenous and definite line structures; planarity was achieved in the form of paralleled layers of frontal view element, planarity style, and identical and proportional repetition of various sizes.; closing signified the pursuit of complete and clear regularity, and architecture developed in a constructive phase through organizational inevitability and absolute invariability.; multiple unity was expressed in self-completedness and independent parallel of discrete forms and harmony of emphasized individual elements in a totality. Applying these layout characteristics of the Renaissance Classicism Architectural style and to see their individual expressive features, I found out that in adopting layout principles of the Renaissance Classicism Architecture to modern fashion, it turned out to be an emphasis of individual silhouettes, a flattened space, completed objects, organic harmony among independent parts: the emphasis of individual silhouettes was expressed in individual definitiveness of formative lines of clothes in accordance with body joints and an emphasis on formative lines of clothes; the flattened space was marked by single layer structure, planarity of elements of clothes, and listing arrangement by appropriate proportion.; the completedness of the objects was expressed by the stationary state where overall image is fixed, the construction of homogeneous and complete space, and absolute inevitability of internal layout in proportion; lastly, organic harmony of independent parts was stressed in independent completedness of each detail, and organic harmony of the whole. The expressive features would lead to a unique expression style of linear emphasis, proportion, constructive forms, and two-dimensional arrangement. The meaning of this study is follows: The characteristics of art school of thought are given shape by appling & analysing the architectural layout principles of historical art school of thought to modern fashion in the view point of formal construction dimension. The applied possibility of historical art school of thought as the source of inspiration about the fashion design is extended.

The contra-sexual phenomenon that is recently focused is one of the new factors, which is focused when explaining the life style of progressive woman’s image and it is creating cultural category. Moreover, the contra sexual people that are rising as new consuming subjects are not simple primary consumers but their shopping culture and cultural tastes are giving effects to many people. Because of the tendency, marketer of consuming industry are making efforts to predict the changes of contra-sexual people’s shopping habits and tastes. Therefore, it is necessary to grasp contra-sexual phenomenon and research the fashion design aiming at that in order to predict woman’s fashion image in the future. Therefore, the study considered concept and characteristic of contra-sexual phenomenon and surveyed its example in the popular culture. And, the study analyzed the formative characteristic of contra-sexual fashion shown in the public cultures such as drama and movie. On the basis of the result, design was suggested by reflecting contra-sexual fashion characteristic under the concept of ‘Urban Splendor’. From the results above, it was possible to grasp the concept and characteristic of contra-sexual phenomenon, which appeared as a trend and understand new woman’s image and the fashion that has changed because of it. It is considered that the establishment of the foundation of contra-sexual phenomenon, which plays as an important variable in woman’s fashion, fashion accessory, cosmetic and advertisement field but it is hard to clarify, by analyzing the work aiming at contra-sexual phenomenon will be helpful for predicting the change of woman’s fashion in the future.

최근 패션마켓은 소비자들의 각기 다른 개개인의 취향을 반영하여 더욱 세분화되고 있으며, 다양한 컨셉과 디자인을 선보 이고 있다. 패션과 패션색채는 사회⋅문화 맥락에서 상징성과 의미를 가지는 대표적 문화 기호이며, 인간의 근원적 욕구인 미적 아름다움을 추구하는 자기표현과 차별화 수단으로 ‘지속적으로 변화하는 상징적 가치를 전달하는 시각기호’로서 패션 색채가 변화하는 의미를 지닌 가치대상이며, 동시에 사회적 승인을 기반으로 새로운 상징적 가치를 창출하는 가치행위로 패션마켓에서 사회현상과 함께 패션색채의 변화에 대한 지속적인 관심은 매우 중요하다. 이에 본 논문에서는 Barthes의 신화론과 Baudrillard의 소비이론에 근거하여 현재 패션마켓에서 색채의 기준이 되고 있는 중세에서 현대에 이르는 시기적 구분을 14 ~ 16세기 르네상스 전후, 18세기 중반 ~ 19세기 초반까지의 산업혁명 전후, 제 1,2차 세계대전, 20세기 이후로 나누어 특징적인 색채 5가지를 선정하여 기호학 관점으로 패션색채의 변화를 분석하였 다. 패션과 패션색채의 변화에 대한 이론적 고찰과 선행이론을 토대로 심층인터뷰를 통해 패션의 소비가치 변화, 패션색채 변화의 기호학적 함의, 현대 패션색채 변화에 영향력을 미치고 있는 요인은 어떠한 것이 있는지 정성적 조사를 하였다.