Undenatured castor oil and trimethylolpropane (TMP) were used to obtain bio-based water-based polyurethane. Isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI) was incorporated into the formulation to obtain a transparent film, and ethylenediamine (EDA) was used for chain extension. In order to measure the change in physical properties according to the contents of castor oil and TMP, each tensile strength, elongation, and abrasion resistance test was conducted. As the contents of castor oil and TMP increased, the tensile strength increased, the elongation decreased, and the surface hardened strongly as the respective contents increased.

In the 21st century, the demand for eco-friendly leather, such as eco-leather and vegan leather, is steadily increasing. This study examines the influence of eco-friendliness on consumers’ purchasing intentions and the possibility of eco-friendly changes in the fashion accessory market, which is dominated by leather material and leather substitutes. This study administered a questionnaire survey to 227 males and females between 20 and 60 years of age in Korea. With a 5-point Likert scale, data were collected on evaluation criteria when purchasing shoes and bags and purchasing intention of various leather substitute materials according to the democratic variables. The eco-friendliness attitude was divided into eco-consciousness and green behavior. As the eco-friendly attitude increased, most purchasing standards increased, but the purchasing criteria, such as trends, brands, and prices, did not correlate with the eco-friendly attitude. The eco-consciousness of a consumer had a high correlation with the design evaluation criteria, while the green behavior of the consumer aligned with durability and comfort criteria when purchasing a bag. There was a preference for recycled leather, vegetable leather, synthetic leather, and chemical leather, and the fabric type was ranked as natural fiber, biodegradable fiber, and synthetic fiber. Consumers with both green behavior and eco-consciousness are more likely to purchase biodegradable textiles and vegetable leather for the material of shoes and bags.

피마자 기반 수성 폴리우레탄(CPUD)을 얻기 위해 무 변성 피마자유 (CO) 와 투명 필름을 얻기 위해 이소포론 디이소시아네이트(IPDI)를 사용했다. 유연성을 증가시키기 위해 폴리프로필렌글리콜 (PPG)의 혼합 효과를 분석하였다. 또한, 사슬연장제로 에틸렌다이아민(EDA)을 사용했다. 각각 피마자유 함유에 따른 변화와 사슬연장제 변화에 따른 인장강도, 연신율 내마모성을 측정했다. 피마자유 함유가 많은 시료의 인장강도가 1.112kgf/㎟, 연신율 88%로 나타났으며, 사슬연장제 함유가 많은 시료의 인장 강도가 3.33kgf/㎟, 연신율 99%로 측정되었다. 표면강도는 SEM을 통해 육안으로 확인하였다.

In this study, isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI) and dimethylolbutanoic acid (DMBA) were used on the basis of poly caprolactone diol (3M, 3.5M, 4M, 4.5M) for the synthesis of water-based polyurethanes for coating on skin layers of leather. Tensile strength, elongation, and adhesive strength of the prepared samples were measured. As a result of measuring the tensile strength, the tensile strength was found to be 4.09 kgf / mm2 when 3 moles were applied, and 1.071 kgf / mm2 when 4.5 moles were applied. Elongation was 366 % when 3 moles of PCL were applied, and 709 % at 4.5 moles. Adhesive strength was 2.887 kgf / cm when 3 moles of PCL was applied and 0.998 kgf / cm when 4.5 moles were applied.

본 연구에서는 에틸아세테이트와 피페라진을 적용한 가죽 표면 코팅제로 사용할 수용성 폴리우레탄의 합성을 위해 poly(tetramethylene ether) glycol(PTMG)를 기반으로 isoporon diisocyanate (IPDI)와 dimethylolbutanoic acid(DMBA)의 반응을 통해 프리폴리머를 합성하였다. 이후 수분산시킨 수지에 피페라진을 0.01M, 0.03M, 0.05M, 0.07M을 쇄연장 반응을 해서 각각의 인장강도, 연신율, CV(cyclic voltammetry), 내용제성 분석을 실시했다. 준비된 시료의 인장강도는 피페라진 함량 0.07M일 때 5.422 kgf/㎟ 로 측정되었으며, 연신율을 측정한 결과 피페라진이 0.01M 일 때 587 %로 측정되었다. 내용제성 분석결과 피페라진 함량과 상관없이 동등한 내용제성으로 측정되었으며, CV 측정을 통해 피페라진 함량에 따라 산화환원전위가 변화되는 것을 확인 할 수 있었다.

State of the Art: Sustainability Integration in the Luxury Fashion Industry Introduction to Luxury Fashion ‘Luxury’, which comes from the Latin word ‘luxus’, refers to exaggerated life, glamour, comfort and wealth (Dubois, Czellar & Laurent, 2005). In the ancient world, luxury was associated with wealth, exclusivity, and power. After the 17th century, European countries’ economic democratization contributed to the reduction of existing sumptuary laws. Trade increased and larger segments of the population began to afford luxury products. Consequently, luxury moved from being limited to serve the common good to being a satisfaction of private needs. At the end of the 19th century, following the second industrial revolution, luxury earned its modern meaning of being enjoyable beyond the necessities of life (Fionda and Moore, 2009). The democratization of luxury resulted in mass luxury in which luxury brands have extended themselves to affordable offerings (Cristini et al., 2017). Luxury was long associated with the premium quality (Brun and Castelli, 2013), whereas today the technical reproduction of luxury is indulged by mass-produced brands (Cristini et al, 2017). Thus, one could argue that commercial drivers have taken over the industry whereby executives are increasingly seeking ways to transform creativity into profitability. Accordingly, the luxury market has experienced noticeable growth. The global luxury goods market reached a value of € 1.081B, with a growth rate of 4%, in 2016 (Bain & Company, 2016). Nevertheless, despite growth and high profit margins, the global fashion market is affected by macroeconomic, socio-political and natural events. For example, the short-term doubling in cotton prices brought many problems in 2011. Furthermore, scarce natural resources and rising commodity prices greatly challenge the ability of luxury fashion companies to remain profitable. The new luxury paradigm of being more accessible challenges not only sustainability but also operational aspects. The reputation of the luxury industry suffers from consumer concerns over poor labour standards in production, blood diamonds, irresponsible gold-mining practices and animal cruelty in global production networks (Hennigs et al, 2013; Moore, 2011). We therefore question how and to what extent luxury could play a positive role in our mass-consuming generation to slow down the pace for materialism and to better implement sustainability in globally dispersed production networks. Whilst sociologists, marketing and branding experts, have shown interest in luxury management, researchers in the field of operations and supply chain management have paid little attention to the topic: the first paper in the field appeared less than a decade ago (Brun et al., 2008), and furthermore, as of January 2017, there appear to be only 87 papers published in Scopus-indexed journals with ‘‘supply chain OR oper*’’ AND ‘’luxury’’ in the keywords. Henceforth, the current financial, environmental, economic and cultural crises could be considered significant drivers for how luxury operations could be advanced in the move toward sustainability. The focus of this paper is luxury personal goods such as fashion and accessories. The Relevance of Sustainability for Luxury Fashion Following the supply chain revolution of the 1990’s (Mohanty and Prakash, 2013) and the removal of the Multi-Fibre Arrangement in 2005, the fashion industry has become a global force in production and distribution. Globalisation has led to increasing outsourcing of production by fashion companies to a network of suppliers and subcontractors. The industry is characterized by shorter product life cycles and highly volatile market demand (Choi, 2013) alongside downward price pressure, international sourcing, high product variety and low predictability (Perry and Towers, 2013). To this end, fashion companies rely on sophisticated information and logistics systems to remain competitive in the market. Nonetheless, the fashion industry is somewhat inflexible toward major external changes outside the organizations’ direct control (Kozlowski et al., 2015). There is also a potential conflict between corporate responsibility and overarching commercial pressures in the fashion industry (Perry et al., 2015). According to the definition of sustainable development by The United Nations World Commission on Environment and Development (WCED, 1987), current needs should be met without endangering future generations’ rights to satisfy theirs. Luxury fashion companies must therefore acknowledging resource scarcity and other sustainability issues, and take collective actions for an authentic shift to create unique and sustainable businesses. To be profitable and sustainable, “luxury companies must adjust their definition of excellence that is no longer associated with shallow glamour but with positive engagement and deeper values” (Hennigs et al, 2013, p.33). An Overview of Sustainable Supply Chain Management (SSCM) Sustainability in SCM has captured academics’ interest since the early 1990s. Despite the growing interest, some fundamental issues still need to be addressed to provide novel models. The majority of the practices that make up green supply chain management (GSCM) models are modifications of existing practices (Pagell and Wu, 2009). However, earlier studies also stress that these programs might not be sufficient to become sustainable. Hence, it would be insightful to examine which components and which practices are required to make ‘sustainable’ chains. Social sustainability also requires deeper consideration. Wu and Pagell (2011) investigated how organizations deal with short-term pressures to remain economically viable during sustainability implementation, but did not consider social aspects of sustainability. Lee and Klassen (2008) identified the important drivers and enablers which promote environmental management capabilities in SME suppliers, but did not address social sustainability or specific measures for suppliers’ environmental management capabilities. Zhu and Cote (2004) and Vachon and Klassen (2006) demonstrated how to extend green practices, but again social aspects were not encompassed. Similarly, Caniato et al (2012) identified drivers that push companies to adopt green practices, various practices that could be used to advance environmental sustainability and environmental performance indicators measured by fashion companies. However, the social component was excluded. The recognition of corporate social responsibility (CSR) as a business activity is highlighted by the launch of ISO 26000; nonetheless, as illustrated earlier, extant SCM literature has mostly neglected the social aspects of sustainability. Despite a number of studies on aspects including social responsibility and consumer trust (Castaldo et al., 2008), sustainability reporting (Lozano and Huisingh, 2011), sustainable supply management (Ageron, Gunasekaran, & Spalanzani, 2012), and supplier selection problems (Jia et al., 2015), social issues demand more investigation (Perry and Towers, 2013). Sustaining an efficient global supply chain without compromising social responsibility (Perry et al., 2015). Embedding social and environmental management into SCM is needed yet challenging. Significant progress has been made in studies of the buyer-supplier relationship over the past decades, however despite some notable exceptions on green SCM (Zhu and Cote 2004; Zhu et al. 2008; Yu et al. 2014), the development of SSCM literature appears to focus on a single entity rather than the entire chain or network. Social and environmental performance of suppliers is an area of mounting concern, and collectively, sufficient coordination between supply chain partners is greatly needed. Many small and medium-sized suppliers encounter challenges in responding to environmental pressures due to limited capabilities and available resources (Lee and Klassen, 2008), and the most critical environmental and social issues in supply chains are generated by suppliers located in the second tier or further upstream (Tachizawa and Wong, 2014). Therefore, a holistic examination of the entire chain is required. In this vein, Pagell and Wu (2009) examined the chain as an entirety by explicitly addressing both environmental and social outcomes and by asking what unique behavioural patterns are needed for SSCM. However, the adoption of some of the practices is quite limited, which suggests the existence of additional contingencies. Their study called for future studies to explore the role of specific industries e.g. textiles. To this end, Ho and Choi (2012) investigated why fashion companies go green and evaluated sustainable supply chains. Nevertheless, the study was a single case study and did not consider potential differences in terms of antecedents affecting small and large companies. Curwen et al. (2013), interestingly, sought to document current challenges the fashion and apparel industry faces while developing sustainable apparel. Yet again, an imperative need arises to further explore the connections among product design, production processes and supply chain stages through a multidisciplinary approach. On the whole, the phenomena of sustainability has been interpreted in a variety of ways, ranging from a philosophical perspective to business management approaches (Ahi and Searcy, 2013), but more research is needed to show more than how to be ‘less unsustainable’. Traditional business research must go beyond studies focusing on profit with a rather short-term orientation and instead embrace components of how to create truly sustainable businesses. Considering the aforementioned gaps observed in the extant literature, the following research questions were formulated to investigate the phenomena of social and environmental sustainability at supply chain level within the luxury context, where ethical aspects are becoming increasingly critical for success (Brun and Castelli, 2013). RQ1: How do luxury fashion companies integrate sustainability into their supply networks? RQ2: How do contingent factors impact sustainability integration in luxury fashion supply networks? RQ3: Which behavioural patterns could be used to develop a sustainable supply chain configuration for the luxury fashion industry? Research Methodology Data was drawn from case studies of two Italian supply chains producing luxury silk and leather goods, encompassing 10 companies, with a focus on the individual supply chain as the level of analysis. These two supply chain were theoretically sampled to provide diversity in organizational characteristics and supply network relationships that could explain different approaches to the integration of sustainability into the entire chain. The research design followed Yin (1994) and previous studies in operations and SCM. Face to face interviews were conducted with senior managers of different functions in each supply chain during 2015-16. In most of the companies, responsibility for sustainability was divided and integrated into the jobs of multiple managers, meaning that there was no single individual assigned to sustainability. Additionally, the managers interviewed were often in charge of one or more functions, which helped reduce the number of interviews but increased interview content. The interview topic guide was developed from the literature review, and the theoretical constructs underpinning the interview protocol were then used to create an initial coding scheme for data. Data analysis was done inductively, by developing a framework from the cases while exploiting the theoretical concepts in the categorization of codes. The coding process was followed for all cases as an iterative process to assure consistency. Coding was not considered complete until a consensus was reached on each construct. Data analysis involved within and cross-case analysis. Results: Toward a Framework for Sustainable Luxury Supply Chains This study explored the luxury fashion industry from supply chain and operations management standpoint. Findings revealed seven key categories by which luxury fashion companies integrated environmental and social sustainability into their operations: Category 1: Sustainable product design, Category 2: Operations management, Category 3: Performance measurement, Category 4: Sourcing management, Category 5: Decent work and labour management, Category 6: Commitment to sustainability and organisational perceptions and Category 7: Longevity of suppliers. Firstly, natural resource scarcity was acknowledged by all 10 companies. To this end, some practices, including use of eco-friendly materials, hazardous chemical elimination, textile waste reuse, were applied to the fashion design stage with an attempt to mitigate the environmental impact of subsequent operations. Life cycle assessment (LCA was observed to be a significant tool among sample companies. Nonetheless, higher investment costs to employ more innovative solutions and to advance laboratory tests, higher prices for more ecological materials, and lack of knowledge in terms of fibre and textile components due to supply chain complexity prevented companies from advancing product stewardship. Regarding operations management, water emerged as a significant area where sample companies implemented incremental techniques, including natural tanning, on-site wastewater treatment, water purification and water reuse. Nevertheless, vertical integration, which was getting weaker in the luxury fashion industry, resulted in fashion companies having difficulties in the execution of their suppliers’ environmental performance. Practices implemented in this category were individual company attempts rather than collective action plans. It was not quite feasible to mitigate the environmental impact of independent networks where the buying firm outsourced its business functions to third party suppliers. In order to deal with lack of control and monitoring, sustainability must be understood as a concept to be integrated into the core business strategy with measurable indicators. Furthermore, traceability emerged as a pivotal topic. However, the complexity of global luxury fashion supply chains brought complications. Both supply chains showed that there was lack of knowledge about products’ production history. Due to globalization, countries with low operational costs appeared to leverage their competitive advantage. Changing market conditions resulted in the loss of, for example, silk production in Italy. Silkworm cultivation did not take place in Italy any longer, resulting in confusion regarding outsourced materials’ environmental and social records. High product variety and fragmentation of the production network made it difficult for companies to ensure full traceability. To this end, trust and knowledge transfer were weak, which could be improved to link non-economic goals with financial objectives. Another interesting result was that supplier audits were mostly made within first tier direct suppliers’ facilities. In some cases suppliers were provided with online self-assessment tools that were monitored by buying firms. Yet, buying firms and manufacturers required more efficient inspection methods and more realistic mitigation strategies. Ensuring social sustainability is hindered by complications such as lack of visibility and financial burdens. Consequently, technical and motivational dynamic capability development needed to be proactively initiated by focal companies. As stressed by earlier studies, sustainability must be a shared effort within all functions of a company and across its supply network. Sustainability could be disseminated across the chain only when all supply chain actors, including retailers, suppliers and sub-contractors, connect, understand and collaborate with each other. Correspondingly, it became clear that sustainability management required strong organizational commitment for which an alignment between financial and non-financial goals was greatly required. Hence, education and training activities received growing attention. In conclusion, the sample companies asked their supply chain partners to become sustainable for two main reasons, (i) to make the chain stronger, and (ii) to jointly learn and improve performance. Long-term relationships and supplier stability, as evidenced in the leather supply chains, could cultivate trust, which would result in advanced organizational and operational performance improvements. Supplier engagement and collaboration associated with knowledge dissemination could further enable companies to improve sustainability, and lastly innovation capabilities were imperative.

The introduction of natural dyes into modern dye houses is very promising green chemistry concept that should be popularized more to reduce the dependency of leather dyeing on some toxic and non-biodegradable synthetic dyes. In this study, the properties of dyeing of cochineal on cow leather were evaluated. The proper dyeing conditions were identified with dye uptake (K/S values) depending on the colorant concentration, dyeing duration, dyeing temperature, and dye bath pH. For the proper mordanting conditions, color changes for different mordants were observed as La*b* and H V/C values. Color fastness (light, rubbing, and dry cleaning) was also examined. Additionally, antibacterial properties and UV protection were examined. The results were as follows: The optimized dyeing conditions were 300% o.w.f., 40°C, 40 min., and pH 5. The cow leather color was red in the absence of mordanting, while it was red purple after being mordanted with Al and Cu, and purple mordanted with Fe. The K/S value of cow leathers increased in the order of the dyeing using AlK(SO4)2>CuSO4>FeSO4. The colorfastness to light and rubbing were reduced compared to original (untreated) cow leather. However dry cleaning fastness was very satisfactory, with a 4~5 rating. The dyed and pre-mordanting dyed cow leather showed excellent antibacterial properties.

Buffalo leather 표면 코팅에 사용된 폴리우레탄 수지에 glycerol의 함유를 mole % 비로 달리 하면서 첨가 하였다. 합성된 폴리우레탄 수지의 기계적 특성은 SEM, FT-IR, UTM 등을 이용하여 측정 하였다. 친환경적인 고분자 수지의 관심이 고조됨에 따라 용제의 사용을 최소화한 buffalo leather 코팅에 사용되는 수분산 수지를 합성하였다. 지방족 3가 알콜인 glycerol의 mole % 비가 증가함에 따라 내마모 도, 인장강도가 감소함을 알 수 있었다. 반대로 연신율, 내굴곡 물성은 증가함을 알 수 있었다. Toluene 을 이용한 내용제성 물성측정 결과에는 glycerol의 mole % 증가에 따른 물성 증감 효과는 없었다.

The fashion supply chain, even if represents one of the most important economies of the European industry, is one of the most polluting industries in the world, being a huge consumer of water, electricity and chemicals, and discharging massive quantities of wastes to land. Despite this fact, only few contributions have offered an analysis of the practices adopted by fashion companies to reduce its environmental impact. This paper present an empirical study on the sustainability practices adoption of Italian companies in the fashion Clothing, Leather industries. The research has been conducted through an online survey submitted to a sample of 192 Italian companies, having respectively the 14 and 15 ATECO 2007 code in the AIDA database, with a response rate of 13%. The results have been analyzed through the statistical software SPSS, in order to conduct a cluster analysis and 6 different clusters have been identified. Companies belong to cluster 1 do not apply any sustainability practices, even if they are coherent with what they declare on their website. Companies of cluster 2 adopt some practices, but sustainability is not integrated into their culture. Cluster 3 is composed by companies that declare a high interest to the environment, mainly for marketing reason. This way, companies of this group represent the ones more misaligned and not consistent from the practices declared on their website and the one really implemented. Cluster 5 is composed by companies endorsing environmental sustainability as a part of the company values and a high level of practices implemented is reported. Last, companies belonging to Cluster 6 have the environmental sustainability as a strategic objective and implements sustainability practices in a consistent and coordinated way.

Vegetable leather 표면 코팅에 사용된 폴리우레탄 수지는 glycerol의 함유를 mole% 비로 달 리하면서 합성하였다. 합성된 폴리우레탄 수지의 기계적 특성은 SEM, FT-IR, UTM 등을 이용하여 측 정하였다. 친환경적인 고분자 수지의 관심이 고조됨에 따라 용제의 사용을 최소화한 vegetable leather 코팅에 사용되는 수분산 수지를 합성하였다. 지방족 3가 알콜인 glycerol의 mole% 비가 증가함에 따라 내마모도, 인장강도가 증가함을 알 수 있었다. 반대로 연신율, 내굴곡 물성은 감소함을 알 수 있었다. Toluene을 이용한 내용제성 물성측정 결과에는 glycerol의 mole% 증가에 따른 물성 증감 효과는 없었 다.

In this study we experimented that how polyurethane effect to acrylic-polyurethane resin in Full-Grain leather coatings. First of all, we consummated waterborne acrylic emulsion and waterborne polyurethane resin, Than we prepared F.G leathers which were coated by acrylic resin and acrylic-polyurethane resins. According to measured data for solvent resistance, acrylic resin and acrylic-polyurethane resins had good property. Sample a(WAC) had most low strength(2.10kgf/mm2) and sample d(WAC 93 : WPU 7) had most high strength(3.41kgf/mm2). Also we knew that most good property of abrasion is d(47.4 mg). In elongation case, a(WAC) had most good result(645 %) in this experiment.

In this study, we experimented that how to synthesis waterborne urethane-epoxy hybrid resin for leather garment coatings. First of all, We had analyzed datas by FT-IR, SEM and TGA for the machanical properties. By instruments analysis measurement we confirmed that synthesis of urethane and epoxy. In this experiment we knew that polyurethane and urethane-epoxy hybrid resin have 4~5 grades of solvent resistance. Tensile strength measured in the urethane-epoxy resin(epoxy 12%, 2.033kgf/mm2) had the most strong strength than polyurethane(1.833 kgf/mm2) emulsion samples. Also urethane-epoxy hybrid resin had better result than polyurethane in acid resistance and abrasion test. As hight proportion of epoxy in hybid resin, we obtained low elongation and low flexibility. In this result, the mechanical properties of waterborne polyurethane-epoxy hybrid resin showed that how effect in leather coating by ratio of epoxy emulsion.

In this study, we experimented that how to synthesis waterborne urethane-acrylic hybrid resin for leather coatings. First of all, We had analyzed data by FT-IR, SEM and TGA for the machanical properties. By TGA analysis polymers showed heat distortion temperature. and by FT-IR measurement we confirmed that synthesis of urethane and acrylic. In the experiment, solvent resistance, polyurethane and acrylic grades 4-5 showed both a high. Tensile strength measured in the waterborne polyurethane 〉 Acrylic emulsion showed strength in the order. Films were obtained by coating the water born resin on leveled surfaces and allowing them to dry at room temperature for 72hrs. After demolding, the films were kept in a desiccator to avoid moisture contant at 25℃ for 45hrs before the measurements. In this result, the mechanical propersies of waterborne polyurethane-acrylic hybrid resin showed that how effect to resin in leather coating between polyurethane content and acrylic content. Therefore, acrylic emulsion had most high solvent resistance glade and waterborne polyurethane had good result in abrasion test and tensile strength.

The adsorption of Acid Blue 92 onto three low cost and ecofriendly biosorbents viz., cow dung ash, mango stone ash and parthenium leaves ash and commercial activated carbon have discussed in this work. The ash of all the mentioned bio-wastes was prepared in the muffle furnace at 500℃ and all the adsorbents were stored in an air thermostat. Experiments at total dye concentrations of 10~100 mg/L were carried out with a synthetic effluent prepared in the laboratory. The parameters such as pH and dye concentration were varied. Equilibrium adsorption data followed both Langmuir and Freundlich isotherms. The results indicate that cow dung ash, mango stone ash and parthenium leaves ash could be employed as low-cost alternatives to commercial activated carbon in wastewater treatment for the removal of dye.