본고는 고대 자전류를 중심으로 두의에 관련된 어휘를 정리하여 고대 중국의 두의 가 어떤 형태였고, 이것이 한국의 고대 두의와 어떤 차이를 가지는지 살펴보고자 하 였다. 복식문화는 그 사회의 문화 지표이자 시대적 역사성과 공동체의 의식을 계승 한 현실과 가장 근접한 문화적 상징이라고 할 수 있다. 문화는 결코 한 방향으로만 흐르지 않는다. 우리나라의 의복이 중국의 영향을 받지 않을 수 없었겠지만, 일방적 인 중국 복식문화의 수입에만 의존하였다고 생각할 수도 없다. 중국의 두의는 冠‧冕 과 巾에서 발전한 幘이 있고, 冠과 幘이 합쳐진 형태의 巾幘이 있다. 고대 유가 의례 에 관한 문헌에 자주 보이는 弁은 자형의 혼용, 弁 형태에 대한 설명의 상충 등 모 순점을 가지고 있다. 본고는 이를 자형과 고문헌 자료의 편찬 시기 등의 자료를 바 탕으로 한국의 고깔형 弁과의 융합 가능성을 제기하고자 한다.

This study aimed to examine the recent Hanbok school uniform design directions to contribute to the distribution of Hanbok school uniforms and the accumulation of Hanbok-inspired fashion design sources. We reviewed 16 academic papers published on Hanbok school uniform designs from 1998 to 2023 and summarized the design features proposed therein. We also analyzed 172 items of Hanbok school uniform designs developed under the Hanbok school uniform promotion project hosted by the Hanbok Advancement Center between 2019 and 2022. We found that the recent Hanbok school uniform design characteristics conformed to the design directions proposed in previous studies in terms of line, color, fabric, and textile pattern. Conforming design characteristics include the following. Overall, silhouettes were straight and moderately fitting to the body. Detailed straight and curved lines from Hanbok were applied. Designs showed traditional Hanbok colors, including white, black, and navy. Machine washable cotton and various blended fabrics were used. Modernized traditional patterns such as Saekdong, cloud, and Gwae were applied to textile designs. In contrast, some characteristics of recent designs deviated from the proposed design directions. Barrel silhouettes were found in casual styles of uniform items, including sweatshirts, hoodies, and jumpers. A wider range of materials, including fleece, quilted fabric, brocade, and Jinju silk, were used. Uniforms had looser silhouettes and were made with modern washable materials to meet students’ preference for casual uniforms.

This study conducted in-depth interviews with experts to implement Hanbok shows on metaverse, which can contribute to the succession and development of Hanbok design and to establish a platform that fits the reality of the Hanbok industry and consumers. In-depth interviews were conducted to collect opinions from experts, and the derived contents were divided and analyzed using an affinity diagram. Experts were positive about the use of the metaverse platform of the Hanbok show in terms of impact, accessibility, exposure, virtual fitting, issuance of NFTs, and promotion of Hanbok brands. As a result of verifying the validity of the four components of metaverse, experts highly evaluated the possibility of using Hanbok shows in the order of virtual reality, augmented reality, mirror world, and lifelogging. Visuality, influence, marketing efficiency in virtual reality, immersion in augmented reality, fantasy and artistic elements, expression, diversity, and abundant experiences were expected. The platform’s requirements emphasized realistic implementation equipment and technology, collaboration between Hanbok designers and producers, in addition to government support. Results of this study showed that appropriate target was analyzed to be in the 10–30s, and the appropriate price range was found to be able to sell at a discount of 40–80% compared to offline. This study provides useful implications for the service development of metaverse content, which will also be actively used in the Hanbok field, and can be used as basic data for reviving the Korean Hanbok industry and strengthening international competitiveness.

In this study, an empirical analysis was conducted on the use of Korean design elements in the Hanbokwave project in 2022 in order to identify the expressed fashion characteristics and define Korean style. A case study was conducted on 98 items of clothing representing 10 Hanbok designer brands, and an analysis card was developed and used that classifies the silhouette of each item in detail. The analysis showed that in addition to the traditional skirt and Jeogori, the four stages of simulakr’s image were prevalent in various fashion items such as shirts, blouses, jackets, crop tops, vests, dresses, and pants. In the composition of sleeves, many western clothing methods such as set-in-sleeve use and adjustment, hardcover buttons, and zippers were used to fuse the three-dimensional structure of western clothing and elements of traditional Hanbok to redefine it as postmodernism. It was recognized as a modern fashion, such as the trend of mixing and matching tops and bottoms, not a skirt and Jeogori set, by layering traditional clothes without hesitation or using them as a dress. As for the silhouette of the bottoms, the A-line showed a high frequency, and the prominent shape was identified as a traditional element widely used in modern Hanboks along with the element of wrinkles. This study is thought to be used as practical data for design development for the globalization of K-fashion in the future.

최근 들어 한옥마을과 같은 전통문화를 즐길 수 있는 장소에서 한복 대여를 통해 남녀노소 누구나 쉽게 한복을 체험할 수 있게 되었다. 또한 한복을 착용하는 데서 그치지 않고 인증샷을 찍어 SNS에 공유함으로써 한복 체험이 선풍적인 인기를 얻게 되었다. 하지만 한옥마을과 같은 특정한 장소에서 할 수 있는 한복 체험을 제외하고는 일상생 활에서 한복의 대중화는 어려운 실정이다. 따라서 한복을 일상복으로 대중화하기 위해서는 한복의 편의성뿐만 아니라 한복에서 느껴지는 감성적인 만족까지 반영하여 한복을 디자인을 하는 것이 중요하다. 본 연구는 선행연구를 통 해 추출한 한복에서 느끼는 소비자의 감성을 표현하기 위한 감성 어휘 28개를 활용하여 한복 유형별로 느껴지는 소비자의 감성을 7점 리커드 척도로 측정하였다. 그리고 한복 유형별로 ‘느껴진다’에 해당하는 5점 이상의 점수를 기록한 감성 어휘와 감성 카테고리를 분석하였다. 또한 한복 유형별로 성별에 따른 감성 카테고리의 평균차이를 검 증하였으며, 그 결과 호감 카테고리에서만 남녀 간의 유의한 차이가 있었다. 마지막으로 한복 유형을 전통 한복(배냇 저고리, 색동저고리, 성인 전통 한복, 전통 혼례복)과 현대 한복(아동 생활 한복, 여자 생활 한복, 남자 생활 한복)으 로 구분하여 감성 카테고리의 평균차이를 검증한 결과 6개의 감성 카테고리인 ‘유쾌감, 심미감, 조화감, 신선감, 호 감, 안정감’에서 전통한복과 현대한복 간의 유의한 차이가 있었다. 본 연구에서 도출한 한복 유형별로 느껴지는 감성 어휘에 대한 분석 결과는 소비자에게 보다 감성적인 만족을 제공하는데 도움이 되리라 기대된다.

Modern Hanbok tends to use new colors based on traditional colors and their symbolic meanings. In addition to the traditional colors, various expressions have been increased, it is necessary to consider the color and color trend used in modern clothing. This study focused on the period 2011–2020 and analyzed the main color and coloring method of top and skirt by year with 450 data from a total of 81 wedding magazines. The results of examining the characteristics of traditional colors during the target period are as follows. First, the main color of the Jeogori showed a distribution of various colors in the first half, but the main color of the skirt concentrated on black, white and light pink in the second half. Second, while the use of blue and green systems decreased, Dang-ui color changed to warm yellow, green, and red systems. The Baeja used plain dark white in the first half; however in the latter half, they changed to white or accented colors. The one-piece used various colors in the first half, but only black and white appeared in the second half. Third, in the upper and lower colors of Hanbok, the blue-red color, the traditional contrast color of the first half, decreased significantly in the second half. The appearance rate of proximity for the complementary color harmony of white-red color and the adjacent color harmony of white-blue increased.

The purpose of this study is to develop Korean clothing designs that can satisfy future consumer’s needs based on the elements extracted through the content analysis method in a study on the design elements expressed in traditional outfits in the 2010s. To this end, data analyzing Hanbok in wedding magazines were used, and after extracting design elements, research methods for empirical design development were used. After subclassifying the major design elements, factors with a steady increase in frequency and appearance rate were identified. Through this, five elements capable of aesthetic sampling were extracted by complex expression methods and expressed in a total of seven combinations. The types extracted from the design elements are items, silhouette, top shape, skirt shape, skirt length, mixed items with increasing frequency. In the element of color, the adjacent color harmony, which showed the highest frequency of color, and the white-blue harmony, which showed an increase among them, were extracted. When using materials, top and skirt have similar usage rates of the same and different materials, so both contents were extracted, and many patterns were arranged in the top and the whole, but these three were extracted because there were increasing cases where there were no patterns. In the case of decoration, embroidery, pintuck, sakdong, applique, lace, ribbon on the top, silver foil and print on the skirt were extracted. Through this study, it was possible to propose a future Korean costume design model.

The emergence of environmental and social issues has led to global discussions for the realization of sustainable development. The purpose of this study is to propose a method of sustainable fashion design using waste Hanbok, focusing on men's Hanbok with cultural values. The study utilizes literature research and fashion design development. From the literature study, reform was judged to be a higher concept encompassing reduction, recycling, and upcycling. Reduction is a design method through removal, and recycling design transforms from its original form into a completely different product. Upcycling design focuses on improvement and change in functionality. Accordingly, nine redesigns using men’s Hanbok were developed from which three were produced. Consequently, the reduction design demonstrated a small range of variation without changing the item, and cultural sustainability was confirmed through the design that removed the components and recombined the Hanbok. Second, recycling redesign can be reconstituted into a different item. Third, upcycling enables various designs through module assembly, which prolongs the lifespan of the product and confirms its value as a raw material for waste Hanbok. This study is meaningful in realizing sustainable fashion and suggesting practical measures for the sustainability of Korean traditional culture and creative fashion design planning.

The aim of this study is to investigate morphological characteristics of Hanbok images in children’s books and propose a direction for the modernization and globalization of traditional culture. This study examines 43 children’s books by contemporary foreign illustrators that contain Hanbok illustrations and analyzes them from postcolonial perspective. The results include the following three attributes: first, the transformation of clothing structure and donning method that confuse fundamentals of Korean costume; second, the Westernization of silhouette drawing with tailored garments analogous to Western dress; and third, extension to East Asian dress that represents Hanbok mixed with Chinese or Japanese costume and use what is considered to be the East Asian patterns instead of Korean traditional ones. These attributes are based on Eurocentrism, which expresses and interprets the East from the Western view point with continuously distorted image of the East. Korean illustrators also painted Hanbok incorrectly, which could influence foreign illustrators. Nevertheless, traditional dress illustrated in various ways has artistic value and has a popular global impression. Further, it enables children to experience either own or other cultures through dress illustrations. Thus, the outsider requires an in-depth understanding of other cultures, while the insider needs a critical perception of their own culture as described by others while revisiting the original resources. Furthermore, we suggest follow-up research on Hanbok for subsequent generations; publishing translated books on various topics, producing and disseminating a primer for diverse readers, and essentially receiving counsel from experts.

The purpose of this study is to classify the types of decoration techniques used in women’s Chima and Jeogori in traditional Hanbok catalogs from 2010 to 2020, and to analyze the frequency of each type. The method of this study is as follows. This study first investigated the transition of modern Hanbok and decorative techniques by analyzing and classifying such work in previous studies. Based on this, the technique of decorating the Jeogori and Chima that appeared in the traditional Hanbok catalog of the study period was analyzed. The results of the study are as follows. In the case of Jeogori, in the first half of 2010, the decorative technique of a relatively large size was used, and the decorativeness tended to be strong. However, in the late 2010s, the number of decorative techniques used in Jeogori has decreased, and the size of the decorative technique has become smaller and more concise, leading to a tendency to understated decoration. In the case of Chima, techniques to express natural texture by processing threads or fabrics themselves were mainly used rather than techniques to add decoration to the surface, and techniques to express various surface texture tended to develop toward the late 2010s. The change in the decoration technique of Jeogori and Chima appears to be a combination of social, cultural, and economic factors such as a change in consumption culture and a reduction in the wedding market.

This study aims to develop a hanbok design method in response to recent changes in consumption trends that emphasize new aesthetic and cultural values, which contrast with the existing cultural order and repetitive normative styles in fashion designing. With this in mind, our study explores the main features of deconstruction fashion design as a theoretical guide for developing a methodology for deconstruction hanbok design, on the basis of which new, experimental and creative hanbok design works can be produced. To do this, we first investigate current trends in hanbok design and changing concepts of Korean fashion design through literature review of previous studies. Secondly, we explore deconstructionism and analyze its features to lay down the foundation for a post-modern approach in hanbok design. As the result of analysis, the main features of deconstruction fashion design are summarized as the following: 1) non-finishing, 2) decomposing and recomposing, 3) recycling, 4) transparent, 5) grunge, 6) flattening, and 7) exaggeration. Based on the identified core features of deconstruction fashion design, we develop a creative method of hanbok design in the context of modern Korean fashion design. Finally, we show five design outputs via a 3D digital fashion design process using the CLO3D software program.

The purpose of this study identify the types and characteristics of Hanbok worn in lunar new year parade and Korean parade in New York over the past three years. As for the research method, I first collected domestic news articles, overseas Korean news articles, and literature reviews about the history of the Korean parade in New York and the events of each year. Second, I conducted a case study on Hanbok worn in the six parades from 2017 to 2019 using photo data collected through direct surveys, ‘YouTube’ video footage and news article photos. Third, I interviewed people related to the New York parade about the route of buying and renting the Hanbok in the New York area. The types of Hanbok shown in the Korean parade in New York can be largely classified as ceremonial, performance, and daily costume. There were 65 ceremonial costumes in all, with men wearing Dallyeong (official’s robe) and Gorlyongpo (dragon robe) and women wearing Dangui (woman’s semi-formal jacket), Wonsam (woman’s ceremonial robe), and Hwarot (princess’s ceremonial robe). A number of performance costumes were also worn by the Chwitasu bands, Nongak ensembles and fan dancers. Finally, of the 210 daily Hanbok, most men wore Baji (pants) and Jeogori (jacket), and women wore Chima (skirts) and Jeogori. The parade attempts to showcase the beauty of Hanbok, but the costumes repeat year after year, which can feel monotonous to onlookers. This research can be used as a reference to effectively utilize Hanbok in future Korean cultural events.

Recently, young people wearing hanbok are highly visible in the palace and in Hanok Village. However, there is much controversy regarding whether the hanbok the young people are wearing is traditional. Young people in Korea are exposed to hanbok through a variety of ways such as school education, games, webtoons, television shows, and movies. In this study, we presented teenagers with illustrations of hanbok to see which they preferred and which if any they recognized as traditional. The study respondents most preferred the hanbok from the 18th century, but they considered the hanbok from the 20th century to be the traditional style. We next used text mining to analyze the students’ freely written, open-ended responses regarding the hanbok they preferred and the one they considered traditional. The hanbok from the 18th century, the one the teenagers preferred, was a sexy, cool style related to gisaeng that emphasized the waist, whereas the hanbok they believed was traditional, the 20th-century hanbok, was simple, neat, comfortable, and plain. Among the young people’s responses regarding which hanbok was traditional, the text mining extracted the following repeated words related to both the 18th- and 20th-century hanbok: “dramas,” “mass media,” “historical dramas,” and “movies.” For the 18th-century hanbok only, we extracted “webtoons” and “Hanok Village,” and for only the 20th-century hanbok, we extracted “textbooks.”

최근 들어 한복에 대한 문화수용자들의 관심이 증가함에 따라 다양한 한복들이 시장에 등장하고 있다. 문화수용자들의 요구사항을 충분히 반영한 한복이 일상복으로까지 확산되려면 한복의 기능성 측면뿐만 아니라 한복을 착용하면서 느끼는 감성적인 만족까지 가져다주는 것이 중요하다. 하지만 한복을 경험하면서 표출되는 문화수용자의 감성에 대한 기존 연구가 부족한 실정이다. 본 연구에서는 선행연구를 통해 심리학, 언어학, 감성공학 등의 다양한 분야에서 기존의 연구결과와 참고문헌을 활용하여 수집한 182개의 감성어휘를 활용하여 델파이 기법과 적합성 평정을 위한 설문조사를 통하여 한복에서 표출되는 감성어휘 28개를 추출하였다. 본 연구를 통해 추출된 28개의 감성어휘는 한복에서 느끼는 문화수용자의 감성을 표현하기 위한 감성어휘라고 정의할 수 있다. 또한, 요인분석을 통해 최종 선택된 28개의 감성어휘들 간의 상관관계를 이용하여 어휘들을 그룹핑하였다. 결론적으로 요인분석을 통해 추출된 6개의 요인에 적재된 감성어휘들은 각 요인에 적재된 감성어휘들의 공통적 특성에 따라 ‘유쾌감’, ‘심미감’, ‘조화감’, ‘신선감’, ‘호감’, ‘안정감’ 등 6개 감성 카테고리로 구분할 수 있었다. 본 연구를 통해 추출된 6개의 감성 카테고리는 사용자들이 한복에서 느끼는 대표감성 이라고 할 수 있다. 본 연구의 결과로 도출한 28개의 감성어휘와 6개의 대표감성은 한복에서 표출되는 문화수용자의 감성을 측정하는 데에 필요한 기초자료로 활용할 수 있을 것이라 기대된다. 향후 연구과제로는 본 연구에서 추출한 대표감성을 이용하여 한복에서 느끼는 문화수용자의 감성을 측정하기 위한 구체적인 평가스케일을 도출해보고자 한다.

The purpose of this study is to investigate changes in the rental Hanbok market and consumer during the past 10 years. This study was done by analyzing internet news about rental Hanbok and in-depth interview. The results provide basic data that can be used to understand the rental Hanbok market. Results showed the followings: First, the rental Hanbok market has expanded and consists of two types of rental Hanbok; ceremonial and experiential. The experiential Hanbok is new but a big part in rental Hanbok market. It is not existed until 2007 but it accounted for more than 60% of internet news about rental Hanbok in 2016. Second, there is a significant difference in consumer behavior between the two types of rental Hanbok. Ceremonial Hanbok showed consistent consumer behavior between 2006 and 2016. Consumer want to get benefits such as TPO(occasion suitability), economy, exhibition, trendy and exceptionality through renting Hanbok. On the other hand, experiential Hanbok, consumers are motivated by having unique, conformity and sharing memories. Based on these results, different sets of information reveal the unique features of the two types of rental Hanbok. And also needed to develop new designs and marketing strategies for them.

The purpose of this study is to develop design for daily hanbok with Jacquard textile design developed by using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. This study will also develop Jacquard textile design that has elaborate and luxurious patterns and abundant expression of colors using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. Developing daily Hanbok design for woman's casual and formal occasion will contribute to fashion business significantly by popularization of daily hanbok as one of the important fashion genre. The “Texpro Design CAD V8.21” program was used for the textile design. A total of 3 designs were developed as the Jacquard textile design with traditional patterns using lotus flower motifs. One type of fabric was produced for each of the textile design with a color selected from 『Pantone Color Chips』. And finally, three woman's daily Hanbok design for either casual or and formal style were developed and these daily Hanboks were consisted of Durumagi, one-piece dress, and one set of jacket and trouser. And the actual garments were constructed and the design procedure and the photos of these works were presented. This study showed the possibility of producing highly sensible daily hanbok that suits the fashion trend of middle aged women and the widening of consumer range and the creation of new market by developing Jacquard textile design.

The purpose of this study was to research the characteristics of the pattern design and the weave construction of 67 fashion fabrics in women's Hanbok. All the fabrics were made by 100% silk. Arrangement, size, and the type of patterns were investigated for research of the pattern characteristics. Pattern weave and background weave were analyzed, then the weight and the thickness were measured for studying the fabric construction. The results were as follows. First, irregular arrangement was more commonly used than regular arrangement, and then the complex arrangement and the combination arrangement were appeared considerably because of the existence of the various patterns in a fabric. Third, the types of pattern weave construction were much more than those of background weave construction. This is caused by the expression of dimensional effect for patterns. This survey can be practically used for development of pattern design for Hanbok industry and furthermore it will contribute to revitalizing of Hanbok market to overcome design limit in the future.