Suppliers of luxury fashion fabrics in France have historically been working in fierce competitive ways. Usually family-owned businesses, they are working for the same clients, be it in fast fashion, premium fashion or luxury (including Haute-Couture). Calais lace-makers are no exception. However, what could have been described as same emulation in the past turns out to be a weakness in the XXIst century, with booming foreign competition from developing countries. Up to now, they’ve been unable to join their forces to collaborate on projects such as big orders from fashion brands. Created in 1952, the Dentelle de Calais® label can be used by the lace manufacturers using Leavers machines, and active members to the French Federation of Lace and Embroidment (which is the IP owner of the label). This encompasses the places of Calais (traditionally manufacturing lace for undergarments) and of Caudry (more focused on clothes). Caudresian lace has become famous as a proud supplier for the Duchess of Cambridge’s wedding dress or for the awarded costumes in The Great Gatsby. However, it appears that the label is currently dying, being unequally used by the various lace-makers and retailers / brand owners of clothes or undergarments. In January 2014, a repositioning of the label has been initiated. We’ve been asked to do it and decided to use action research to complete this task. The ultimate objective was to give a new identity to the label and DNA to the brand, which could be used by any lace-maker using Leavers machines in a way enhancing his own brand equity. In short, we aim at crafting an ingredient branding strategy. The present action research, on top of solving the client’s issues, aimed at enhancing knowledge on several key topics. First, we wanted to understand better information processes in a cluster that is bi-located, and with internal “fights”. Then, another objective was to grasp the various points that are at stake when clustering happens in-between non-aligned partners. More specifically, we wanted to uncover how decisions happened, and stimulate new ways for decision-making optimization. A last objective was to reflect upon ingredient collective-branding strategic developments, as most literature on branding concerns individual brands and not collective ones. As these become a major trend in these days, we believe academic research has a great role to play. Our research is a first step in this direction. To do this, various data collection and analysis methods have been used: • Interviews with all types stakeholders (fashion designers, purchasers, marketers, journalists, students in fashion or business schools, etc.), to understand their present vision of lace fabric in general and whether they would or would not use it (including in their sales argument). Then similar discussion on Calais lace is conducted. Open-coding and axial coding are then done to identify the values associated with lace and Calais lace, for each stakeholder-category. • Semiotic analysis of the label, to understand the Ethics and Aesthetics of this collective brand. This includes content and discourse analyses, visual (iconic and plastic) analysis of the communication tools including the logo, etc. The current label positioning is presented thanks to the greimasian semiotic square . • Non-participant observation and non-directed interviews with all lace-makers to get each one’s perspective on the label. Open coding and axial coding (Strauss & Corbin) are used to identify the relevant categories and sub-categories underlying the dicsourses. • Lexical analysis of all verbatims will help identify the proper jargon to reconcile stakeholders and manufacturers. • Market analysis on the various relevant markets: Middle East, Europe and Asia. • Structural semiotics are used to wrap-up findings and craft a new brand identity (Greimas’ semiotic square and narrative scheme). More than a simple action, this ingredient-branding collective action will help foster a collective conscience around the preservation of an endangered manufacturing sector of activity, paving the way for a future industrial cluster. Besides the managerial outcomes, this project aimed at (1) Understanding better information processes in a cluster that is bi-located, and with internal “fights”; (2) Grasping the various points that are at stake when clustering happens in-between non-aligned partners, esp. in terms of decision-making processes; and (3) Reflecting upon ingredient collective-branding strategic developments. Our paper presents all these points, providing practical and theoretical insights for the luxury community in general.

버즘나무방패벌레의 온도별 발육과 생식력을 1998년 충북대학교 농생물학과 곤충실험실에서 조사하였다. 알에서 성충까지의 발육기간은 에서 54.0일이었고 에서 17.9일이었다. 와 에서는 발육하지 않았다. 알, 약충, 알에서 성충까지의 발육영점온도와 유효적산온도는 각각 11.0, 10.9, 그리고 150.3, 230.6, 376.1일도였다. 암컷성충수명은 에서 51.8일이고 에서 일17.2로 온도가 높을수록 짧았다. 암컷한마리당 산란수는와 에서 많았다. 내적자연증가율()과 1세대당 순증식율()은 에서 각각 0.170과 73.25로 다른 온도에서 보다 높았다. 이상의 결과로 버즘나무방패벌레의 성장에 적합한 온도 범위는 25~이었다.

진달래방패벌레(노린재목: 방패벌레과)의 발생소장을 1994년 전라북도 완주군지역에 식재된 철쭉포장에서 조사하였다. 진달래방패벌레는 전북지역에서 년 최고발생세대수는 4세대였고, 각 세대의 성충발생최성기는 5월 하순, 7월 중순, 8월 하순, 그리고 10월 중순으로 나타났다. 진달래방패벌레는 앞뒷면의 주맥 근처조직에서 알로 월동하였다.

버즘나무를 가해하는 우리나라 미기록 해충이 발생되어 동정한 결과 버즘나무방패벌레(신칭)로 확인되었다. 성충은 체장이 3.0~3.2mm이며 외견상 유백색을 띠고 있고 노숙약충은 검은색을 띠고 있다. 버즘나무의 잎 뒷면에 모여 흡즙 가해하며 피해엽은 황백색으로 변한다. 본 해충은 1995년 9월말 현재 서울, 경기, 강원, 충북, 충남 등 중부지방에 분포하고 있는 것으로 나타났다.

Corythucha marmorata Uhler was newly recorded in Korea as a invasive species at Pohang-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do, Korea in 2011 and at Changwon-si, Gyeongsangnam-do, Korea in 2012. Adults of this species show reticular forewings with a lot of transparent membranes and also show pterigoid process of paranotum with strong processes. This invasive species was originated from North America, and then intruded into Europe and Japan. This species is presumed became an epidemic horticultural pest at present and it is injuring almost of Asteraceae leaves. It was presumed that the invasion of Corythucha marmorata into Korea was prior to September of 2011.

A new bright white gladiolus “White Lace” was released by the National Horticultural Research Institute (NHRI) in 2004. A cross was made between late flowering white cultivar “White Goddess” and vigorous white cultivar “Amsterdam”. It was crossed in 1999 and finally selected in 2004 after investigation of the characteristics for 5 years from 2000 to 2004. “White Lace” has a bright white color and multi-flowering florets more than 20 florets with good simultaneous flowering more than 8 florets. This cultivar is middle flowering without stem bending. It has good production of cormlets, vigorous growth and resistant to virus, Fusarium and Thrips. The width of “White Lace” flower is 11.5 cm. The plant height is 137cm. Days to flowering of “White Lace” is average 93days in summer season.