Industrial innovation in Britain, during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, stimulated the introduction of the factory system and the migration of people from rural agricultural communities to urban industrial societies. The factory system brought elevated levels of economic growth to the purveyors of capitalism, but forced people to migrate into cities where working conditions in factories were, in general, harsh and brutal, and living conditions were cramped, overcrowded and unsanitary. Industrial developments, known collectively as the ‘Industrial Revolution’, were driven initially by the harnessing of water and steam power, and the widespread construction of rail, shipping and road networks. Parallel with these changes, came the development of purchasing ‘middle class’, consumers. Various technological ripples (or waves of innovative activity) continued (worldwide) up to the early-twenty-first century. Of recent note are innovations in digital technology, with associated developments, for example, in artificial intelligence, robotics, 3-D printing, materials technology, computing, energy storage, nano-technology, data storage, biotechnology, ‘smart textiles’ and the introduction of what has become known as ‘e-commerce’. This paper identifies the more important early technological innovations, their influence on textile manufacture, distribution and consumption, and the changed role of the designer and craftsperson over the course of these technological ripples. The implications of non-ethical production, globalisation and so-called ‘fast fashion’ and non-sustainability of manufacture are examined, and the potential benefits and opportunities offered by new and developing forms of social media are considered. The message is that hand-crafted products are ethical, sustainable and durable.

The luxury branding industry thrives on creating products and services that are exclusive in nature. To achieve this, brands often control for pricing, quality, quantity and availability to create a perception of exclusiveness. The literature showcases a handful of concepts to explain how marketers can create exclusive products and services. However, the literature does not give a theoretical foundation to the creation of the Theory of Exclusivity. This study is the first to address this issue. A number of theories and concepts in marketing, psychology, sociology and other fields of sciences have been reviewed to conceptualise the Theory of Exclusivity. The conceptualisation of this theory gives marketers a better understanding of how they can create exclusive brands.

We discuss a new IRAS Faint Source Catalog galaxy redshift catalogue (RIFSCz) which incorporates data from Galex, SDSS, 2MASS, WISE, AKARI and Planck. AKARI uxes are consistent with photometry from other far infrared and submillimetre missions provided an aperture correction is applied. Results from the Hermes-SWIRE survey in Lockman are also discussed brie y, and the strong contrast between the galaxy populations selected at 60 and 500 μm is summarized.

Some after-dinner thoughts on the giants of infrared space astronomy. I here describe important events in infrared astronomy starting from 1964 when I started working on my PhD. Here I describe how I became involved in IRAS, Infrared Space Observatrory (ISO), Herschel , Spitzer and AKARI, together with important events that led to these great missions.

It is common knowledge that a conventionally woven textile consists of two assemblies of parallel threads (warp and weft), one interlaced with the other at ninety degrees. Where each of the two assemblies is arranged in a particular colour sequence, a check design, known as a ‘tartan’, may be created. Although similar check-type cloths have been produced worldwide, it is the tartans of Scotland which have received most attention and it is here that a complex set of rules evolved and tartans of different types became associated traditionally with different regions, family groups or 'clans'. There is an impressive array of publications focused on the identification of tartans and their clan associations. This paper explains the nature of tartans, analyses typical surface structures, ratios and proportions, and suggests possible avenues of use for modern designers. The principal sources of data were a collection of tartans held at ULITA - An Archive of International Textiles (University of Leeds, UK) and Stewart's 1974 publication The Setts of Scottish Tartans. Based on the observation that divisions into halfs and thirds were dominant, a series of templates is presented with the intention of developing an awareness among designers that ratios and proportions used in familiar or traditional frameworks can be employed in a modern context.

The National Museum of Taiwan History is holding a special exhibition titled: “Our 2.28: 70 Years After the 2.28 Incident”. The creation of this exhibition coincided with a push to get 2.28 registered as an UNESCO Memory of the World. With the continued development and recognition of the history of Taiwan 2.28 has led to the question about how to educate people about the events, especially their own students. In this paper, an introductory investigation into how various countries handles the teaching of state-sponsored tragic events to their students.

The Sino-Philippine Arbitration on the South China Sea Disputes was over on July 12, 2016, with a Merits Award in Philippine favor. Beijing rejected this arbitration and abstained from submitting written and oral arguments. Taiwan actively engaged in the debate with the Philippines since July 7, 2015. Not deemed as representative of China, Taiwan was considered capable of clarifying the meaning of the U-Shaped Line it first published in 1947 when seated in Nanjing, representing China then. The biggest maritime feature in the Spratly Islands, i.e. Taiping Island (Itu Aba), has been occupied by troops from mainland China since 1946 and then from Taiwan since 1956. The legal status of Taiping Island was the key to success of Philippine Submissions. The factual information from Taiwan became vital. This paper examines Taiwan’s role in this arbitration and the degree to which it could actually speak for China at such legal proceedings.

Scholars have described compulsive behaviour as “hyperstimulation, sometimes unintentional and repeated overindulgence despite negative consequences, deception and self-neglect” (Hartston 2012). Compulsive buying behaviour has become an addiction amongst many consumers and it has fuelled the growth of the retail market since the 1990’s (Neuner, Raab and Reisch 2005; Koran et al. 2006). The higher spending power of the middle-class consumer has led to a greater demand of luxury branded products so that consumers can attain a higher level of social class within the society. This study will explore the impact of emotional factors (self-esteem, FOMO, brand prestige, and brand consciousness) and rationale factors (product quality, price consciousness and sale proneness) on compulsive buyer’s purchase intention. This is the first study to explore the impact of emotional and rationale factors on compulsive buying behaviour in the luxury branded product category. The results show that young consumers with high compulsive buying tendencies are more heavily influenced by emotional factors. Therefore, retailers could target young consumers by focusing on brand prestige and the brand name.

The scope of this paper is implementation issues of the e-Navigation concept of the International Maritime Organization (IMO). IMO has adopted the e-Navigation strategic implementation plan (SIP) in 2014. This plan, i.a., bases on estimating the effect of e-Navigation applications on reducing navigational accidents, including collisions and groundings of ships falling under the International Convention for the Safety of Life at Sea (SOLAS) by approximately 65 per cent. However, IMO Member States are responsible for safety of navigation and efficient vessel traffic at international but also on national levels. Regarding the introduction of new concepts and innovative systems into vessel traffic there is a need to comprehensively assess potential effects not only for SOLAS ships but also for non-SOLAS ships. This paper aims at a more comprehensive and theoretically sounded estimation of e-Navigation potentials by investigating and applying IMO’s methodology for quantification of those effects also to the implementation of e-Navigation solutions to ships not falling under the SOLAS convention (non-SOLAS ships). The authors carried out a case study using the SMART-Navigation concept of Korea as model case for impact assessment. For the mentioned purpose, this paper identifies main tool kits of IMO e- Navigation, proposes and applies a set of formulas to comprehensively assess and quantify effects of new functions or services based on IMO’s methodological approaches. From gained results authors suggest investigations not only taking into account expert opinions but also simulation trials to identify factors and coefficients for thorough calculations. From the results the authors conclude and recommend to extend the impact assessment of e-Navigation also to vessel traffic involving non-SOLAS ships as a general and global recommendation to coastal states. Further, results are provided as a potential model case for IMO Member States’ reference for their statespecific individual situation and conditions.

In this work, recent progress on graphene/metal oxide composites as advanced materials for HgCl2 and CO2 capture was investigated. Density Functional Theory calculations were used to understand the effects of temperature on the adsorption ability of HgCl2 and water vapor on CO2 adsorption on CaO (001) with reinforced carbon-based nanostructures using B3LYP functional. Understanding the mechanism by which mercury and CO2 adsorb on graphene/CaO (g-CaO) is crucial to the design and fabrication of effective capture technologies. The results obtained from the optimized geometries and frequencies of the proposed cluster site structures predicted that with respect to molecular binding the system possesses unusually large HgCl2 (0.1- 0.4 HgCl2 g/g sorbent) and CO2 (0.2-0.6 CO2 g/g sorbent) uptake capacities. The HgCl2 and CO2 were found to be stable on the surface as a result of the topology and a strong interaction with the g-CaO system; these results strongly suggest the potential of CaO-doped carbon materials for HgCl2 and CO2 capture applications, the functional gives reliable answers compared to available experimental data.

It is recognized that the global apparel market of the twenty-first century is largely profit driven, and that the majority of producers and retailers have sourced products from the lowest cost locations. Purchase tickets of fashion goods available from ‘fast’ fashion retailers (at least within the UK) refrain from providing the consumer with details of the full circumstances of production. It seems that the majority of major retailers and producers are not willing to engage in levels of self-regulation which could ensure that the products offered to consumers are ethically produced and offer acceptable levels of sustainability. Meanwhile many fashion consumers have the desire to purchase sustainable products, produced ethically by workers paid fair wages in safe working environments. Consumer demand could be a powerful tool to adjust the behaviour of manufacturers and buyers. This paper proposes the introduction of international legislation demanding greater degrees of transparency than exist currently and that the full sourcing and production details of fashion products are stated clearly on the product’s purchase ticket within its retail setting. With the introduction of such legislation, consumers could thus be given the opportunity of purchasing goods which they feel accommodate their own views on ethical manufacture and sustainable products. In turn, consumer pressure could ensure indirectly that retail buyers consider all ethical and sustainable aspects of production when negotiating with garment producers/suppliers. Further to this, such a negotiating stance could ensure the improvement of the terms and conditions of employment of the numerous garment workers worldwide.

The Antarctic high plateau offers exceptional conditions for infrared and terahertz astronomy, as well as for programs requiring long, uninterrupted periods for measurements made with high cadence and photometric precision (i.e. time domain astronomy). In this review we summarise the special conditions of the Antarctic plateau which facilitate these observing regimes. We also outline some high profile science programs in each that could be conducted most effectively from the Antarctic high plateau, involving the first light in the Universe, the life cycle of our Galaxy, and the equation of state for the Universe. Three high plateau sites are under particular consideration for furthering such scientific programs-Dome A, Dome F and Ridge A. We summarise the activity underway at each site, which includes the building of new stations and the construction of facilities for optical, infrared and terahertz astronomy, as well as the plans for their future development.

The Palomar Transient Factory is a project making use of a Schmidt 48 inch telescope located on the Palomar Mountain, which is surveying the sky with dynamical cadences. It was deployed in 2009 and the observed sky region is over 1200 square degrees. We have studied the long-term periodic variabilities of the known galactic cataclysmic variables (CVs). More than 20 of the sources had been found to have long term periodic signals, ranging from several tens of days to several hundreds of days. Some possible scenarios are proposed to explain the results, such as a magnetic field change of the companion star, precession of the accretion disk, triple systems and superoutburst cycles. Some preliminary discussion will be presented in this article.

Scholars have classified guilt as, anticipatory, reactive, and existential guilt. Past studies show that specific types of guilt appeals are more effective in advertising (e.g. Lindsey, 2005). However, researchers have mostly relied on the use of unified guilt to investigate advertising effectiveness. Thus the paper highlights the inherent need to investigate a specific type of guilt, namely anticipatory guilt in a luxury branding context. The paper will fill this gap by measuring consumer’s reactions to anticipatory guilt within two luxury product categories (non-durable and durable). The research is one of the first to explore anticipatory guilt in a luxury advertising context. Considering the importance of the guilt appeals in advertising, the paper provides a comparison of anticipatory guilt under three different conditions. Thus, it provides a greater understanding of an advertising tool for practitioners and scholars.

미술사에서 소위 이성적인 예술이라 일컬어지는 솔 르윗의 작품은 수학에 연관되어 논의되어 왔다. 그러나 역사적 정황은 모호하다. 즉 르윗은 1960년대 초 이래 수학에 의거하여 기하학적 외견을 보이는 작품을 제작하면서도, 동시에 수학의 중요성에 반론을 제기한다. 이 논문은 솔 르윗의 작품 <벽면구성(Wall Structure)> (1963), <연속작업 #1 (Serial Project #1) (ABCD)> (1966), <미완 입방체의 모든 변형체 (All Variations of Incomplete Cubes)> (1974) 를 비교분석하고 이에 대한 미술사적인 담론을 재구성함으로써 그가 “예술적-수학적” 작업을 변경한 방식을 고찰한다. 그리고 그 작품에서 보여지는 수학적인 내용, 특히 그가 사용한 법칙이 어떻게 차별화되며 작가의 의도에 어떻게 연관되는지를 살펴본다. 따라서 이 논문은 자신의 작품이 수학적이고 이성적인 작품이라고 이해되는 것에서 탈피하고자 하는 취지에서 르윗이 예술과 수학 간의 상호관계를 규정하는 것을 고찰하고자 한다.

Research on medical tourism (MT) has focused more attention on the growing supply side of the market than the demand side (Gan & Frederick, 2013). There is a need therefore for more research to better understand the demand aspects of this growing industry. Most of the research on MT consumers focuses on two main factors for deciding to travel abroad for medical care: cost and quality of the service (Gan & Frederick, 2013; Lunt et al., 2011). Since both outcome and process healthcare service quality (SQ) remain a concern for medical tourists (Gan & Frederick, 2013; Lunt et al., 2011), it is important to understand medical tourists’ perceptions of their international patient experience. This study aims to investigate this topic, and address the demand side research gap, by content analyzing the online testimonials of medical tourists, who traveled to Thailand for medical care, through a SQ lens. By doing so, this research strives to provide a first-person perspective of Thailand’s MT SQ. No other studies in the MT literature have been identified that used this approach to investigate MT SQ.

This study focuses on Singaporeans’ perceptions of ecotourism products. Singapore is a highly urban country with very little green areas. Most of Singapore’s green spaces are man-made. Because of the lack of natural environment as compared to other Asian countries, such as Taiwan, Japan and China, Singaporeans generally have very little exposure, understanding and appreciation of eco-products. This study attempts to add knowledge to the understanding of urban residents’ (such as Singaporeans) attitudes towards ecotourism products so that marketers are able to better develop or customize their ecotourism products to better meet the needs of these potential customers. A survey was conducted in high traffic areas throughout Singapore, such as train stations, bus interchanges and shopping malls. Convenience sampling was used because the study is exploratory. Interviewers were instructed to survey people aged 20 and older, an age group when people make their own vacation choices. The survey was divided into five parts: travel motivation, vacation choices, environmental consciousness, vacation selection and demographic profiles. Respondents were asked to rank their travel motivations, similar to the ones used by Eagles (1992). Respondents were classified as “ecotourists” or “mainstream” using the criteria of Litvin (1996) and Litvin and Chiam (2014). Respondents were asked to rate a series of statements pertaining to their perception of new ecotourism products. For vacation choices, the respondents were asked to rate a series of statements related to their leadership abilities to influence others on ecotourism products and their knowledge about tourist products, especially those related to ecotourism. In the section on environmental consciousness, respondents were asked how their attitude towards environmental issues influences their purchasing decisions when they are on vacation. Data was analyzed using the t-test to determine if there was any significant difference between the ecotourists and the mainstream tourists. The respondents were then given two vacation choices, an ecotourism product and a mainstream tourist product. They were required to select one of them for their vacation.The last section collected demographic data, such as age, education, household income as well as their marital status. A total of 333 adults participated in this study, 60% female, most younger than 40 years old and single. More than half of the respondents had completed their post-secondary education and belong to middle-income households. About a third of the respondents were classified as “ecotourists” and the rest as mainstream tourists. The average age of the ecotourists was slightly lower than the mainstream tourists (34.19 as compared to 36.93). More than half (55.6%) of the ecotourists have at least a university degree, while the rate of this for mainstream tourists was slightly lower (42.9%). More mainstream tourists (81.6%) see themselves as belonging to upper- and middle-income households than do ecotourists (79.6%). Both the ecotourists and mainstream tourists selected “having fun and being entertained” and “being together as a family” as their top two motivations for travel. Not surprisingly, the desire to be in the wilderness and undisturbed nature and visiting national and state parks appears to be more prominent among the ecotourists than among the mainstream tourists. When the respondents were asked to choose between a pair of vacation packages, one mainstream and one ecotourism, the results were not surprising. More than half (54.8%) of the ecotourists chose an ecotourism package, as compared to only 30.5% of the mainstream tourists. The ecotourists tended to be more knowledgeable about travel destinations and were more proactive in searching for information on new vacation destinations. They were more willing to try new and even unknown vacation destinations. For example, using a Likert scale of 1 to 5, with 1 signifying “strongly disagree” and 5 “strongly agree,” ecotourists were more willing to go to a new destination even if they had not heard about it (3.29) than were mainstream tourists (3.15), Using a Likert scale of 1 to 6, with 1 signifying “strongly disagree” and 6 “strongly agree,” the ecotourists were more environmentally conscious than mainstream tourists. For example, they were willing to pay extra for eco-friendly travel products (4.13) than were mainstream tourists (3.87). The ecotourists were also more likely to consider environmental issues when making their tourism purchases (3.97) than were the mainstream tourists (3.79). The results show that there were significantly more ecotourists among this adult sample (34.8%) than among Litvin’s (1996) sample of students (26%). There are several possible explanations for this phenomenon. For instance, an adult population might be more aware of ecotourism and more conscious of environmental conservation. The ecotourists tend to be younger and have slightly lower income than mainstream tourists. In order to incentivize this younger population to consume ecotourism products, marketers will have to source more value-for-money eco-destinations for these cost-conscious tourists. This could be done through using the existing facilities used by the locals and authentic experiences could be created by lodging and eating with the locals using local produce found in the same vicinity. This study also found differences based on nationality. The top two motivations among the Singaporean ecotourists are (1) have fun and being entertained and (2) being together as a family, whereas the Canadian ecotourists ranked (1) wilderness and undisturbed nature and (2) lakes and streams as their two top motivations for travel. These differences can be attributed to national values (Asian vs. Canadian) as well as differences in exposure to eco-sites. Asian families value being together. Therefore, when they go overseas for a holiday, they like to go as a family, viewing vacation as an opportunity for bonding among the family members. The results seem to reflect that Singapore is a city, and most of the livable space is filled with concrete buildings and structures. Most of the limited green space in Singapore is man-made, with the exception of a few eco-sites. In contrast, many western countries offer vast natural sites such as mountain, streams, parks and wilderness for the locals to use for their leisure activities. Therefore, the urban Singaporeans might choose to spend leisure hours in activities that are not available at home, such as wild water rafting, trekking in the wilderness and camping next to a lake. What can marketers do to market ecotourism products to Singaporeans? Since being with family for holiday and having fun with each other are deemed important to Singaporeans, marketers may want to develop ecotourism products that are suitable for families. In these packages, this could include some fun activities such as staying in a log house next to the lake where they can enjoy meals cooked from produce found in that location and also learn about conservation of the environment. Since Singaporean ecotourists are environmentally conscious, marketers may want to sell ecotourism products that have an environmental conservation message. For instance, they might create programs whereby, for every dollar spent in each of these ecotourism products, a certain percentage will be donated to conservation programs. By educating the Singaporean travelers, more mainstream travelers may be made aware of these travel options and may want to try these ecotourism products. To attract ecotourists, marketers may want to strengthen their ecotourism product offerings to give these travelers more vacation options.

This essay examines Jacques Callot’s Les Grandes Misères et Malheurs de la Guerre (1633) as a moral meditation on war as catastrophe. It also uses Callot’s Miseries to reflect on the nature of catastrophe as such, particularly as “An event producing a subversion of the order or system of things.” As such, catastrophe refers less to nature or the natural gone awry, than it does to the abnegation or suspension of moral aspects of human nature. More than a reflection on war as catastrophe, and catastrophe as fundamentally moral, Callot’s Miseries are a timeless meditation on aspects of the human condition; or on human beings in what amounts to state of nature―as evidenced in times of disaster. Such reflection, again, does not by itself imply that all war―even when catastrophic― is unnecessary, let alone necessarily unjust. But it does suggest that artistic engagement with war understood as catastrophic, may yield insights into human nature that are as important to human self-understanding as those represented in artistic subject matter that is more quotidian.