Eumsikjeoljo (integrity with food) originally came from the Andong district, where the Goseong Yi clan inherited a cookbook from their ancestor Lee Jeong-Rong (1798~1871). The cookbook was written in an antiquated style and is estimated to have been written around the year 1865. Details of the era and authorship are seldom available for the extant ancient cookbooks. The authors of these books and the period during which these books were precisely written were studied through the Eumsikjeoljo which is a repository of 46 cooking disciplines. Of these 10 deal with the practice of traditional Korean crispy snack making, 4 with rice cake making, 3 of the yeonbyeong kind, 19 examples of Korean side dish making, 6 recipes of the kimchi variety, 2 examples of paste-based recipes, and 2 instances of instructions on how to make vinegarbased extracts. Also, in Eumsikjeoljo, there are descriptions of 29 different ways to brew rice wine. Of these, Danyang wine among the Leehwa wines and 13 others account for over 44% of the content. Leeyang wine and Sogok wine are represented by 10 different varieties and constitute around 34% of the entries. Samyang wine and Baek-il wine, along with 6 others, constitute 21% of the entries. The secret recipes of the Goseong Yi clan in the Andong district were recorded so that they could be transferred to the descendants of the clan. An inspection of the recipes and wine brewing techniques recorded in Eumsikjeoljo provides a clearer picture of the mid-1800s Andong noble family’s traditional food habits and simultaneously sheds light on the late Joseon dynasty’s food culture.

This study categorized and made considerations of the fermented soybean pastes into Meju, Chungjang, Si, mixed Jang, and other Jang in accordance with the manufacturing methods described in the fermented soybean paste section of Sangayorok (1450’s), Suunjapbang (1540’s) and Gyemiseo (1554). These are ancient cook books written in Chinese characters during the first half of the Joseon Dynasty. The content on the fermented soybean pastes recorded in these books included 24 items in Sangayorok, 11 items in Suunjapbang, and 14 items in Gyemiseo. In conclusion, the most important fermented soybean pastes during the first half of the Joseon Dynasty were those used to produce soy sauce-like seasoning for the purpose of a-chieving a salty taste with Meju made of soybeans as the main ingredient. The manufacturing techniques for such traditional fermented soybean pastes have been passed down through history to the present era.

This study investigates the Gabo Jaedong Jemuljeongnyechaek, which is the recording of the darye executed over a period of a year in 1834 (34th year of reign by King Sunjo) in the latter part of the Joseon Dynasty, two years after the death of Princess Bokon, the 2nd daughter of King Sunjo. Accordingly, we examined the types of darye (tea ceremonies) and the characteristics of the composition of foods at ancestral rites of the royal families of Joseon. Moreover, we also analyzed the cooking methods and characteristics of food terminologies used in the darye. This includes 39 categories of food and ingredients used for tea ceremonies held for one year, on behalf of the deceased Princess Bokon in 1834. The darye for the monthly national holiday was held along with the darye on the 1st and the 15th day of every month. The darye for rising up and the birthday darye were held on May 12th and October 26th of the lunar calendar, being the anniversaries of the death and the birth of Princess Bokon, respectively. The birthday darye and the darye for New Year’s Day, Hansik (105thday after winter solstice), Dano (5th day of the 5th month of the lunar calendar), and Thanksgiving “Chuseok” were held in the palace and at the burial site of the Princess. During the darye for rising up in May and the Thanksgiving darye at the burial site in August, rituals offering meals to the deceased were also performed. The birthday darye at the burial site of Princess Bokon featured the most extensive range of foods offered, with a total of 33 dishes. Foods ranging 13~25 dishes were offered at the national holiday darye, while the darye on the 1st and the 15th of the month included 9~11 food preparations, making them more simplified with respect to the composition of foods offered at the ceremony, in comparison to the national holiday darye. The dishes were composed of ddeok, jogwa, silgea, hwachae, foods such as tang, jeok, jjim, hoe, and sikhae, and grain-based foods such as myeon, mandu, and juk. Foods offered at the burial site darye included 12~13 dishes comprising ban, tang, jochi, namul, chimchae, and jang. Meals offered at the darye had a composition similar to that of the daily royal table (sura). Darye recorded in the Jemuljeongnyechaek displayed characteristics of the seasonal foods of Korea. Jemuljeongnyechaek has detailed recordings of the materials, quantities, and prices of the materials required for preparations of the darye. It is quite certain that Jemuljeongnyechaek would have functioned as an essential reference in the process of purchasing and preparing the food materials for the darye, that were repeated quite frequently at the time.

This study will introduce the foods recorded in Gyemiseo and disclose the substantive characteristics of traditional Korean food in the early stage of the Joseon Dynasty. Gyemiseo is a cook book manuscript written in the Chinese language that was rebound into book format at the end of the Joseon Dynasty in 1911, some 358 years after it was originally written in the 163rd year of the Joseon Dynasty (1554) While the majority of cook books begin with recipes for various types of wines and liquor followed by those for fermented sauces, fermented vegetables (such as kimchi), vinegars and storage methods, etc., Gyemiseo begins with recipes for fermented sauces, followed by recipes for various kimchis, how to make vinegars, main meals, side dishes, rice cakes and confectionaries, with recipes for wines and liquor introduced last. Therefore, it can be assumed that the methods of brewing wines and liquors were additionally recorded for bookbinding. There are a total of 128 recipes recorded in Gyemiseo, including 13 for fermented sauces, 14 for kimchi, 11 for the main meal, 26 for side dishes, three storage methods, four for rice cakes and confectionaries, and 44 for wines and liquors. It is believed that contents of Gyemiseo will provide a foundation on which to pursue researches on the process of transition of cooking methods of traditional cuisines of Korea during the Joseon Dynasty.

The aim of this study was to introduce the foods recorded in「Bongjeopyoram」, a cookbook, of which the date of production and author are unknown. This was described in an old document belonging to the Hansan Lee family clan from Chungcheongnam-do and revealed its content and significance in the food culture history of Korea to academia for the first time, A close examination of「Bongjeopyoram」 showed that, as with other cookbooks from the Joseon Dynasty, it started with methods of making alcoholic beverages. This was followed by recipes for different types of food in the following order: rice cakes and confectioneries, jeol-sik (seasonal foods), daily meals, foods made for jesa (ancestral rites) or a feast, food for weddings, and food for sijeol-jesa (seasonal ancestral rites). The book contained a total of 18 types of alcoholic beverages, 11 types of rice cakes and confectioneries, 20 types of daily meals, 28 types of jeol-sik and food for sijeol-jesa, 12 types of food for jesa and feasts, and 37 types of food for weddings, for a total of 126 types of food and beverages.「Bongjeopyoram」 was an ancient cookbook with detailed records on how to carry out jesa, which was an important event hosted by jonggas, or the head family of a family clan, and how to receive and serve guests in the Joseon period. This book is expected to play a valuable role as a guidance with significance as a cookbook of a jongga from the Joseon Dynasty, a time when bongjesajeopbingaek (hosting jesa for one’s ancestors and serving one’s guest) was considered important.

This paper investigated monthly meal composition and type of foods prepared for Dalye (ancestor rituals) over a period of 1 year based on the records in Sakmangdalye-deungnok and reviewed the ingredients for Dalye foods. From the results of our survey, 19 to 20 dishes were served in Sakmangdalye. 24 to 25 different foods were served in Sakdalye. Foods for Sakdalye consisted of Silkwa, Jogwa-Gwapyun, Jeongkwa or Suksilkwa, Hwachae-Sujeonggwa, Tteok, Cho, Jeonyueo, Sugyuk, Jjim, Hwe, Po, Sikhye, Tang, main dish-Guksu or Mandu, and Jang. Ingredients used in Sakmangdalye were recorded in a very integrated and simple manner in Sakmangdalye-deungnok. All ingredients were categorized into three groups: Kwasil (Fruits), Byeongmisikseung (Rice cakes etc.), and Muyeok (purchases). Sakmangdalye-deungnok was helpful in consulting dishes and ordering ingredients when a table for Dalye was set. Moreover, it was written simply enough so those who were in charge of preparing food could easily understand. This paper establishes Sakmangdalye-deungnok as one of the key materials for Royal Cuisine.

Since its introduction in"Jeungbosallimgyeongje" in the mid-1700s, Chogyetang has continuously changed as a cooked food while still reflecting the era as in the following four phases. In the first phase from 1766 to 1920, Chogyetang was served as a hot pot dish consisting of boiled chicken with spring onions, vinegar, soy sauce, oil, and egg. The second phase from 1930 to 1950 involved the removal of vinegar, an important seasoning. Instead, a wider variety of materials such as beef, sea cucumber, abalone, cucumber, and mushroom were added. Third, from the late-1950s to 1980s, there were significant changes both in the materials and recipe. Chogyetang was changed into a cold food for consumption in the summer in which sesame, a new material, was added to make soup. The prepared soup was then poured over the chicken and vegetables. Fourth, from the late-1980s to the present, sesame, the main ingredient added in the third phase, was removed. Instead, vinegar, mustard, and sugar were added in order to increase taste. Therefore, Chogyetang has been changed into an a la carte menu item in which vegetables and noodles are added to boiled chicken, and it has become a popular summer food consumed when eating-out.

"Japji" was an old cookbook written in 1721. There are 27 types of foods recorded in "Japji"; 10 descriptions of Byeonggwaryu (rice cakes and cookies): Yakgwa, Junggye, Mandugwa, Chaesugwa, Umujeonggwa, Dongajeonggwa, Baekjapyeon, Aengdupyeon, Toranbyeong, and Yeot; and 16 descriptions of Chanpumryu (side dishes): Jinjumyeon, Jeunggyetang, Geumjungtang, Eoreumtang, Changjajjim, Gajijjim, Oejjim, Dubuseon, Dubuneureumi, Geneureumi, Gesanjeok, Hodojaban, Jeonyak, Seokryutang, Sungeojuak, and Yangmandu. There is also a description of Gugija (Chinese wolfberry) liquor. Here, comparative analysis based on culinary science was carried out on the Korean foods recorded in "Japji" as well as the similar foods recorded in "Gyuhapchongseo" (Women's Encyclopedia) written around 1815. Of the 27 types of Korean foods recorded in "Japji", 13 were also found recorded in "Gyuhapchongseo". The time period for "Japji" can be assumed to be 1721 based on the fact that it is written in a cursive handwriting style of Hangeul, that chili was never used as an ingredient, and that the word "Shinchuknyeon (辛丑年)" was transcribed at the beginning of the book. The dating method also included considerations of whether Neureumi was used or not as well as changes in its cooking style.

This study focused on the historic documents known as deungnok, records created during preparations for royal events in the Joseon Dynasty, rather than the often cited uigwe, the documents describing the Royal Protocol of the Joseon Dynasty. As a reference to the food served at royal banquets, the deungnok can enhance our understanding of royal banquet foods. Seven specimens of deungnok describing royal banquet foods are currently in existence, created during preparations for royal events by the agencies in charge of food, the Saongwon and Jeonseonsa. Owing to the nature of their authorship, the details recorded in these deungnok hold great value as important resources for the study of royal banquet cuisine. Naeoejinyeon-deungnok, which documented an oejinyeon banquet held at the Junghwajeon Pavilion in November 1902, was somewhat disorganized and fragmented. Jinyeonuigwe was more inclusive and well-summarized, since the former were progress reports to the King during banquet preparations that listed various items separately, such as dishes for each table setting and the kinds of flower pieces, and thus did not present a complete picture of all the details as a whole. The latter, on the other hand, were final reports created upon completion of a banquet, and contained more comprehensive records not only of the chanpum (the menu of dishes served), but also the sorts of tableware and tables, floral arrangements, location, scale, and installation date of the sukseolso (temporary royal kitchens for banquets). They also offer a more effective summary by simplifying details duplicated in identical table settings. Nevertheless, the Naeoejinyeon-deungnok recorded some facts that cannot be gleaned from the Jinyeonuigwe, including the height of some dishes presented in piled stacks, as well as the specific names of dishes and their ingredients. The comparative study of the historic records in the deungnok and uigwe will be helpful in identifying and understanding the specific foods served at royal banquets. The oejinyeon-seolchando diagrams in Naeoejinyeon-deungnok depict the table settings for the King and the Crown Prince. The two diagrams contain large rectangles divided into three sections. In each section are similar-sized circles in which the names of dishes and the titles for table settings are recorded. From these records we can see that the arrangements of the table settings for the King and the Crown Prince are similar. The relationships and protocols shown in the arrangement of dishes and table settings for the King and the Crown Prince at royal banquets in the Seolchando appear to be consistent. By comparing the two references, deungnok and uigwe, which recorded the dishes served at royal banquets, the author was able to determine the height of some foods served in stacked arrangements, the names of chanpum, the ingredients used, and the configuration of the chanpum. The comparative review of these two written records, deungnok and uigwe, will be helpful for a proper understanding of the actual food served at royal banquets.