본 연구에서는 높은 항산화, 항염증, 피부 미백 및 멜라닌 생성억제 활성을 지닌 톱니모자반 추출물(학명 Sargassum serratifolium, ESS)의 저장 안정성을 향상시킬 목적으로 oil-in-water (O/W) 나노 에멀젼을 제조하였다. 톱 니모자반으로부터 추출되어 농축, 탈염 및 탈당 과정을 거친 ESS의 주성분은 지용성 성분으로 높은 항산화 활성 때문 에 산화가 쉽게 일어남으로써 기능성 화장품 소재로써의 단점이 있다. 본 연구에서는 이전의 연구에서 확립된 PEG 400, 폴리옥실 캐스터오일 (EL) 및 Poloxamer 407의 농도를 적용하여 MES가 함유된 O/W 나노에멀젼을 제조하였다. 확립된 조건에서 제조된 나노에멀젼의 평균 크기는 16 ~ 22 nm로 나타났으며, 나노에멀젼은 항산화, NO 생성억제 능, 멜라닌생석억제능 alc MMP-1 생성억제능이 우수한 것으로 나타났다. 저장기간에 따른 이들 효능을 분석한 결과 5 사이클의 시간 변화에도 큰 차이가 없었으므로 장기간 저장에 따른 활성변화가 없음을 나타내었다.

본 연구에서는 제1형 프로콜라겐 분비량 측정을 통해 피부 주름개선 효과가 있는 천연물을 검색하던 중, 연꽃잎추출물(Nelumbo nucifera leaves extract, NLE)이 가장 우수한 효능을 나타냄을 확인하였다. 고압 액체크로마토그래피로 NLE를 분석한 결과 isoquercitrin이 함유되어 있었으며, isoquercitrin도 normal human dermal fibroblast (NHDF)에서 제1형 프로콜라겐의 분비를 촉진한다는 것을 확인할 수 있었다. 또한 NLE와 isoquercitrin은 자유 라디컬 소거 활성을 가지고 있었으며, 특히 isoquercitrin은 인간 피부유래 세포주 인 HaCaT 및 NHDF에서 활성산소종의 생성을 억제하고 총항산화능을 증가시켰다. 최종적으로 본 연구팀은 isoquercitrin의 함유량을 높이기 위해 정제한 NLE를 1.7% 함유한 크림(isoquercitrin 51 ppm 함유)을 제조 하여 눈가의 주름개선 효과를 평가하였다. 30 ~ 65세의 한국인 여성 22명을 대상으로 얼굴의 한쪽 면엔 NLE 함유 크림을, 그리고 다른 한쪽 면엔 대조제품을 매일 2회씩, 8주간 연속 사용하도록 하였다. 그 결과 NLE 함유 크림을 사용하였을 때 피부자극이 발견되지 않았으며, 대조제품과 비교하여 통계적 유의성 있게 눈가의 주름을 감소시키는 것을 확인할 수 있었다. 본 연구결과는 NLE 및 isoquercitrin이 우수한 콜라겐 생성 촉진 및 항산화 효능을 가지며, isoquercitrin 함유 NLE는 안전한 천연 주름개선 화장품 소재로 적용 가능하다는 것을 시사한다.

Background : This study, the fraction for testing the efficacy of the Astragalus extract was concentrated active ingredient. The concentrated fraction was applied to a cosmetic material that Astragalus testing results confirmed that the improved efficacy. Methods and Results : The fractions were performed using an n-butanol solvent for increasing the efficacy of the Astragalus extract, by using the material fractions collected to compare and ultimately an increase in whitening and wrinkle efficacy. The solvent to be used in the fractions was used for the n-butanol good dissolution to the effective substance(Astragaloside, Isoflavonoid). It increased approximately 6.5 times the sample extract and the n-butanol fraction of the Astragalus as a result Astragaloside 15 ppm, 97 ppm respectively analyzed by HPLC equipment, isoflavonoid content was confirmed by an increase in the content of the fractions increased 4.5 times to 280 ppm, 1,260 ppm. Tyrosinase inhibitory effect, respectively IC50 5.70 mg/mL, IC50 1.02 mg/mL to, Collagenase producing ability is IC50 4.88 mg/mL, IC50 0.93 mg/mL with n-butanol fraction was good whitening, anti-wrinkle efficacy than the extract. Sensory evaluation was conducted in the same amount of sample, using a purified Astragalus cosmetics received high marks. Stability evaluation(MTT assay) was checked for more than 100% cell viability at the concentration 2,000 ppm. Conclusion : n-butanol fraction of Astragalus was subjected to a component analysis and In vitro test, it was confirmed an increase active ingredient content. The results of sensory evaluation and stability evaluation, it was confirmed been made to improve qualities as a cosmetic materials.

Melanin is produced by melanocytes of the melanoepidermic unit and other cell types. These cells secrete and distribute the melanin pigment, which provides protection from ultraviolet radiation. In this study, the inhibitory activity against tyrosinase and melanin biosynthesis in B16F10 melanoma cells and anti-wrinkling effects on human dermal fibroblasts of Dendrobium speciosum ethanol extract were investigated. The Dendrobium speciosum extract inhibited melanin biosynthesis and tyrosinase activity in a dose-dependent manner in comparison with an untreated control group. Treatment with the Dendrobium speciosum extract suppressed α-MSH-stimulated melanogenesis in B16F10 cells and the dendrite outgrowth of melanocyte/melanoma cells. The α-MSH-induced mRNA expression of tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1), tyrosinase-related protein-2 (TRP-2) and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) was significantly attenuated in a concentration-dependent manner by Dendrobium speciosum treatment. In addition, Dendrobium speciosum treatment increased production of type I procollagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts. Dendrobium speciosum ethanol extract exhibited a potent inhibitory effect on melanin biosynthesis, tyrosinase activity and increased procollagen synthesis. These results indicate that Dendrobium speciosum shows promise as an ingredient in cosmeceutical products due to its whitening and anti-wrinkle effects.

This study was to investigate anti-skin wrinkle effect of Agastache rugosa Kentz extracts by extraction processes.In the comparison of the effect of the solvent extraction, the extracts by 70% ethanol (EE) showed better biological activitiesthat those by hot water. Therefore, further fermented Agastache rugosa was applied to 70% ethanol extraction process(FEE). FEE showed higher DPPH scavenging activity of 62.98% than EE’s 62.71% at 1.0㎎/㎖, but there was no significant.Elastase inhibition was measured 23.0% from FEE at 1.0㎎/㎖. Cytotoxicity showed the highest 16.26% from FEE, thisvalue is safe in the cell experiment. Collagen production showed 113.1ng/㎖ from FEE, on the other hand EE was measured77.4ng/㎖ in adding 1.0㎎/㎖. MMP-1 production was observed 1398pg/㎖ from FEE and EE was measured1632pg/㎖. These results were found the highest antioxidant and anti-wrinkle effect. As a result, it was also confirmed thatanti-skin wrinkle activities of the Agastache rugosa Kentz extract was correlated with anti-oxidant activities.

This study was to investigate anti-skin wrinkle effect of aronia extracts by extraction processes. The 70% etha-nol extract by ultrasonification process (UEE) showed highest DPPH scavenging activity of 90.4% in order water extract(WE), 70% ethanol extract (EE) was measured 84.2%, 84.3%. collagen production measured 245ng/㎖ from UEE. WE wasmeasured 53.5ng/㎖ and EE was measured 224.4ng/㎖. MMP-1 production was observed lowest 22.5pg/㎖ at UEE.MMP-1 production of EE was 34.6pg/㎖ and WE was 102.3pg/㎖. These results were found the highest antioxidant andanti-wrinkle effect at UEE among three processes. It was also confirmed that anti-skin wrinkle activities of the aroniaextract was strongly correlated with anti-oxidant activities due to high amounts of antocyanins in the extract.