This study explores the contemporary reinterpretation of traditional suit design through the lens of post-structuralist philosopher Jacques Derrida’s concept of decentralization. The objective is to systematically analyze the diverse expression methods of decentralized suits in contemporary fashion and identify their design characteristics, thus exploring various design possibilities for decentraliz suits. To achieve this, the study examines the deconstructivist fashion collections of notable designers such as Martin Margiela, Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons, Alexander McQueen, and Thom Browne, analyzing 269 decentralized suits from their men’s collections from 2009 to the present. The methods of decentralization are categorized based on the structure (composition), details, and materials of the garments, are classified into deconstruction, discontinuity, and disorder. Specific expression methods include irregular wearing, layering, asymmetry, and distortion for deconstruction; omission, heterogeneous insertion, material transition, and separation for discontinuity; and tearing, graffiti, and unfinished elements for disorder. The identified design characteristics are as follows: gender-neutral and category-free, which dismantles the rigid formality and masculine image of suits to allow flexible and diverse gender expressions; integration of unconventional elements, which combines traditional suit design with non-traditional details like ruffles, strings, unfinished edges, and graffiti to create new designs; and sustainable design, which utilizes the deconstruction and recombination of existing suits to recycle discarded suits, making it suitable for upcycling.
In a situation where the importance of eco-friendly fashion is growing, this study adds to the needed research by analyzing consumption value satisfaction factors, brand image, and repurchase intentions of eco-friendly fashion products. During the investigation, the impact of gender was also accounted for to establish an effective marketing strategy. In June 2024, 250 surveys were evaluated from domestic consumers with experience purchasing eco-friendly fashion products. Descriptive statistical analysis, factor analysis, reliability analysis, and regression analysis were performed. Five factors were measured to determine satisfaction with the consumption value of eco-friendly fashion products: emotional value, functional value, social and situational value, passive value, and rare and eco-friendly value. Empirically subdividing satisfaction with eco-friendly fashion as recognized by consumers reveals meaningful findings about consumption value. Among the factors of consumption value satisfaction with eco-friendly fashion products, functional value, social and situational value, and rare and eco-friendly value all positively affected repurchase intention. The consumer’s gender also made a difference in satisfaction. Considering these results, the marketing effect of eco-friendly fashion can be increased. This study will be able to increase the ESG management effect of fashion companies. By performing ESG management, the fashion industry can achieve social and environmental responsibility along with sustainable growth.
The interlacing technique has a long history of use as a means of creative expression and persists in modern society to satisfy the individual pursuit of pastimes. This method has the developmental potential to create new trends in the future. Interlacing techniques (e.g., basketry, plaiting, braiding, and knotting) are closely related to plastic arts fields, architecture, art, and industrial design where the various interlacing practices are applied. This research uses case analysis to study the types of expression found in the formative art field wherein the interlacing technique is applied. Results reveal several expressions, including optical illusion visual type, relief surface type, porous perspective type, and object borrowing type, all of which appeared in fashion bags. The aesthetic formativeness, which appeared in the fashion bags that applied interlacing techniques, was then classified according to geometric formative beauty in a process based on rules and order. Nature-friendly formative beauty reflecting handicraft locality and omnidirectional formative beauty by disordered deconstruction and heterogeneous combination were determined. The use of interlacing techniques that show creative, unique combinations and variations is expected to inspire the development and application of bag design that suits individual and original modern fashion trends. One limitation of this thesis is that it only studied cases appearing in modern fashion bags.
This study investigates the negative perceptions (veganphobia) held by consumers toward vegan diets and fashion and aims to foster a genuine acceptance of ethical veganism in consumption. The textual data web-crawled Korean online posts, including news articles, blogs, forums, and tweets, containing keywords such as “contradiction,” “dilemma,” “conflict,” “issues,” “vegan food” and “vegan fashion” from 2013 to 2021. Data analysis was conducted through text mining, network analysis, and clustering analysis using Python and NodeXL programs. The analysis revealed distinct negative perceptions regarding vegan food. Key issues included the perception of hypocrisy among vegetarians, associations with specific political leanings, conflicts between environmental and animal rights, and contradictions between views on companion animals and livestock. Regarding the vegan fashion industry, the eco-friendliness of material selection and design processes were seen as the pivotal factors shaping negative attitudes. Furthermore, the study identified a shared negative perception regarding vegan food and vegan fashion. This negativity was characterized by confusion and conflicts between animal and environmental rights, biased perceptions linked to specific political affiliations, perceived self-righteousness among vegetarians, and general discomfort toward them. These factors collectively contributed to a broader negative perception of vegan consumption. In conclusion, this study is significant in understanding the complex perceptions and attitudes that consumers hold toward vegan food and fashion. The insights gained from this research can aid in the design of more effective campaign strategies aimed at promoting vegan consumerism, ultimately contributing to a more widespread acceptance of ethical veganism in society.
ㅊThis study aims to analyze fashion design cases using traditional elements based on the research and analysis of traditional folk cultural paper-cutting crafts in China, and to expand the area of fashion design using traditional elements by developing 3D digital fashion design. For herein, the techniques and characteristics of Chinese paper-cutting crafts were investigated. This survey facilitated an analysis of the formative characteristics of battery crafts in contemporary fashion design. As for the analysis case, the case of using battery crafts expressed in modern fashion for 10 years from 2010 to 2024 S/S was selected. The results are as follows. First, the typical characteristics of Chinese paper cutting technology—relief, micro-carved, combined with relief and micro-carved expressive techniques of engraving art effect— can be explored by analyzing contemporary fashion case collections through the perspective and trend of leading traditional culture. Second, in the traditional paper cutting process, most paper-cutting works are expressed in red, but white and black are mainly used in fashion, in addition to the active use of the five colors. Third, the characteristics of contemporary fashion patterns primarily utilize the paper-cutting process, incorporating elements such as plants, animals, and geometric patterns. Fourth, the utilization of paper cutting in 3D digital design offers time and economic benefits, allowing for quick adjustments to various design developments. In contemporary fashion, it is expected that the use of paper cutting can provide useful creativity and value for the inheritance and modernization of traditional culture.
This study aims to investigate how consumers perceive the attributes (ubiquity, continuity) of metaverse fashion brands in a virtual space. It also empirically verifies the impact on consumers’ perceived values (hedonic value, social value) and consumer behavioral intentions (intention to use the platform, intention to purchase virtual products). The results verified in this study are as follows: First, we confirmed that the metaverse attributes perceived by consumers in the virtual space of the fashion brand, ubiquity and daily extension, positively affect customers’ perceived hedonic and social values. Second, we found that consumers’ perceived hedonic and social values have a significant positive effect on their intention to use the platform. Finally, we found that consumers’ intention to use the platform had a significant positive effect on their intention to purchase virtual products. The results of this study will have academic significance by expanding the scope of research related to identifying metaverse attributes and values by identifying metaverse attributes and consumer values that perceived by consumers in fashion brands’ virtual spaces in the metaverse. This study suggests a direction and strategy for fashion brands to move forward in building virtual spaces on the metaverse platform. In this way, they can create perceived value for consumers that elicits positive consumer behavioral intentions.
Clothing is intimately intertwined with daily lives as every individual relies on it. The pervasive issue of plagiarism in the fashion industry has led to an increased demand to protect intellectual property rights. Currently, studies on the protection of fashion design intellectual property rights in China remain in the exploratory stage and warrant further investigation. This paper addresses the issue in two parts. The first part contains an analysis of the theoretical foundation for the protection of fashion design copyrights. It is further divided into three subsections. The first subsection primarily examines the concept of copyrights and laws. The second subsection focuses on the concept of fashion design copyrights and laws. The third subsection analyzes copyright laws concerning fashion designs in China. The second section offers an analysis of infringement cases involving fashion designs published during the Baiyi Cup Intellectual Property Case Summary Writing Competition held in China in 2023. It outlines the shortcomings of the current Chinese copyright laws regarding the protection of fashion designs, and proposes measures for improvement. This study argues that the institutional framework for intellectual property rights in the Chinese fashion industry should align with practical considerations and explores suitable legal regulations and how they relate to specific circumstances in China. Besides refining the legal framework, fashion designers and enterprises must take measures to entablish the intellectual property rights of their clothing brands.
This study investigates consumer experiences and word-of-mouth (WOM) intentions in luxury brand pop-up stores, including standalone and department store setups. Grounded in experience economy theory, this study examines the experiential elements based on the types of pop-up stores and the relationships among consumer experience, pop-up store image, and WOM intentions for each type. Data were collected from 300 visitors to luxury brand pop-up stores between January and July 2023 and analyzed using Smart PLS 4.0. The findings reveal several key insights. First, standalone pop-up stores offer educational and escapist experiences, while pop-ups within department stores have a single identified factor of consumer experience. Second, regardless of the store type, luxury pop-up store experiences significantly influence pop-up image perceptions. Third, luxury pop-up store image drives WOM intentions for both standalone and department store pop-ups. Notably, the unique image significantly impacts solely department store pop-ups and does not influence standalone pop-ups. Moreover, image perceptions in both pop-up store types do not significantly affect brand WOM intentions. Finally, WOM intentions for pop-up stores significantly influence WOM intentions for brands. This study contributes to the theoretical understanding of consumer experiences in luxury pop-up stores, providing practical insights for stakeholders in the luxury brand industry to enhance pop-up store image perceptions and WOM intentions.
This study assessed the effectiveness of brand image communication on consumer perceptions of cruelty-free fashion brands. Brand messaging data were gathered from postings on the official Instagram accounts of three cruelty-free fashion brands and consumer perception data were gathered from Tweets containing keywords related to each brand. Web crawling and natural language processing were performed using Python and sentiment analysis was conducted using the BERT model. By analyzing Instagram content from Stella McCartney, Patagonia, and Freitag from their inception until 2021, this study found these brands all emphasize environmental aspects but with differing focuses: Stella McCartney on ecological conservation, Patagonia on an active outdoor image, and Freitag on upcycled products. Keyword analysis further indicated consumers perceive these brands in line with their brand messaging: Stella McCartney as high-end and eco-friendly, Patagonia as active and environmentally conscious, and Freitag as centered on recycling. Results based on the assessment of the alignment between brand-driven images and consumer-perceived images and the sentiment evaluation of the brand confirmed the outcomes of brand communication performance. The study revealed a correlation between brand image and positive consumer evaluations, indicating that higher alignment of ethical values leads to more positive consumer assessments. Given that consumers tend to prioritize search keywords over brand concepts, it’s important for brands to focus on using visual imagery and promotions to effectively convey brand communication information. These findings highlight the importance of brand communication by emphasizing the connection between ethical brand images and consumer perceptions.
The changing media landscape has diversified how and what is discussed about fashion. This study aims to examine expert discussions about fashion shows on social media from the perspective of fashion criticism. To achieve this goal objectively, a text mining program, Leximancer, was used. In total, 58 videos were collected from the panel discussion section of Showstudio from S/S 21 to S/S 24, and the results of text mining on 24,080 collected texts after refinement are detailed here. First, the researchers examined the frequency of keywords by season. This revealed that in 2021–2022, digital transformation, diversity, and fashion films are now commonly used to promote fashion collections, often replacing traditional catwalk shows. From 2023, sustainability and virtuality appeared more frequently, and fashion brands focused on storytelling to communicate seasonal concepts. In S/S 2024, the rise of luxury brand keywords and an increased focus on consumption has been evident. This suggests that it is influenced by social and cultural phenomena. Second, the overall keywords were analyzed and categorized into five concepts: formal descriptions and explanations of the collection’s outfits, sociocultural evaluations of fashion shows and designers, assessments of the commerciality and sustainability of the current fashion industry, interpretations of fashion presentations, and discussions of the role of fashion shows in the future. The significance of this study lies in its identification of the specificity of contemporary fashion criticism and its objective approach to critical research.
Until now, research on consumers’ purchasing behavior has primarily focused on psychological aspects or depended on consumer surveys. However, there may be a gap between consumers’ self-reported perceptions and their observable actions. In response, this study aimed to investigate consumer purchasing behavior utilizing a big data approach. To this end, this study investigated the purchasing patterns of fashion items, both online and in retail stores, from a data-driven perspective. We also investigated whether individual consumers switched between online websites and retail establishments for making purchases. Data on 516,474 purchases were obtained from fashion companies. We used association rule analysis and K-means clustering to identify purchase patterns that were influenced by customer loyalty. Furthermore, sequential pattern analysis was applied to investigate the usage patterns of online and offline channels by consumers. The results showed that high-loyalty consumers mainly purchased infrequently bought items in the brand line, as well as high-priced items, and that these purchase patterns were similar both online and in stores. In contrast, the low-loyalty group showed different purchasing behaviors for online versus in-store purchases. In physical environments, the low-loyalty consumers tended to purchase less popular or more expensive items from the brand line, whereas in online environments, their purchases centered around items with relatively high sales volumes. Finally, we found that both high and low loyalty groups exclusively used a single preferred channel, either online or in-store. The findings help companies better understand consumer purchase patterns and build future marketing strategies around items with high brand centrality.
Fashion stress is a pertinent aspect of modern consumer culture that has been underexplored in academic research. This study developed a conceptual framework of fashion stress and a multidimensional scale to measure consumers’ fashion stress. The qualitative study included literature reviews on consumption stress, shopping stress, and consumer behavior, as well as focus group interviews to gain insight into various dimensions of fashion stress. NVivo 12.0 was used to analyze the qualitative data and identify core categories following the grounded theory methodology. The quantitative study involved a preliminary and a primary surveys to verify the validity and reliability of the fashion stress scale. A total of 220 questionnaires were used for data analysis. The results show that fashion stress consists of eight factors: care, shopping, fit, brand, financial, closet, style, and disposal. Choice difficulty plays a significant role in all factors of fashion stress. Moreover, shopping stress had a negative impact on impulse buying, while other factors such as fit, brand, closet, and disposal stress had a positive impact on impulse buying. Thus, fashion stress is a potential antecedent of impulsive consumer behavior. The results also confirm the validity and reliability of the scale. The fashion stress scale developed in this study offers researchers a valuable tool for assessing and understanding consumer experiences.
In the context of a globalized society where diversity, equity, and inclusion (DE&I) have emerged as pivotal values, the fashion industry is undergoing scrutiny for its practices related to body DE&I. This study examines the nature of the discourse surrounding body DE&I within the fashion industry, focusing on how such discussions are shaped, disseminated, and manifested in both the industry and broader society. Critical discourse analysis is applied by utilizing, content from the New York Times and leveraging Fairclough’s analytical framework encompassing textual, discursive, and social practices. The findings indicate that the New York Times emphasizes diversity, with a significant focus on the shapes and sizes of women’s bodies, developing a narrative centered around women’s bodies through visible and representative domains. The analysis suggests conflicted discourse, with prevailing critiques against the fashion industry’s standardization of beauty and superficial inclusivity efforts. Moreover, the industry’s adaptation to social demands for body DE&I is observed as sporadic, often leveraging non-normative bodies as a marketing strategy rather than genuinely embracing diversity. This study highlights the importance of continuous, in-depth discourse and social practices regarding DE&I within the fashion industry, as well as the need for systemic changes and policies that genuinely reflect societal demands for inclusivity. The findings provide a foundation for future investigations into the multifaceted relationship between fashion discourse, DE&I, and social practices, advocating for a more inclusive and critically aware fashion industry.
With the digitalization of production and consumption environments, consumers are no longer merely targets of marketing, but key players in creating value jointly with companies by participating in various decision-making processes. Much virtual content in particular, such as fashion shows, exhibitions, games, social activities, and shopping, which fashion brands implement in virtual worlds, cannot be completed without consumers’ active engagement and interaction. Thus, this study considers consumers’ participation in virtual content provided by fashion brands as value co-creation in virtual worlds. This study aims to examine how consumer (i.e., consumer smartness) and fashion firm (i.e., perceived intellectual capital) factors influence value co-creation behavior intention in virtual worlds. Data were collected from 410 consumers in their 20s nationwide through an online survey, and a higher-order structural equation modeling analysis was conducted to test the research model. The results showed that both consumer smartness and perceived intellectual capital positively influenced customer participation behavior and citizenship behavior intentions. Specifically, perceived intellectual capital had a greater impact on value co-creation behavior in the virtual world than consumer smartness. The findings provide empirical evidence that the fashion firms’ intangible assets and consumers’ competence in the digital shopping environment encourage their intentions to co-create value in virtual worlds.
본 연구에서는 최근 패션산업 내에서 등장하였던 AR 사례들을 제품과 착용자, 공간을 기준으로 그리고 활용 목적 이나 용도를 기준으로 분류하여 분석하였다. 국내외 포털(구글, 네이버 등) 및 연구논문에서 분석되었던 패션산업 내에서의 AR기술 활용 사례들을 76개를 수집하여 분석하였다. 연구결과는 다음과 같다. 패션산업 내 AR 사례들은 제품 및 착용자, 공간의 측면에서 모두 실제 및 가상, 실제와 가상의 혼합 형태과 다양하게 활용되고 있었다. 활용 용도 측면에서도 디자인 및 상품개발, 마케팅 및 홍보, 패션쇼, 시착, 온라인 및 오프라인 판매 및 유통 등을 위해 다양하고 창의적으로 활용되고 있었다. 특히 AR 기술을 통해 패션제품의 범주, 패션쇼의 개념, 시착의 방식, 마케팅 과 홍보 툴, 판매 툴 등이 기존의 틀에서 더욱 창의적으로 확장되고 있음을 확인할 수 있었다. 향후 패션산업 내의 포용적 성장을 위해서 기술적 준비도나 자본, 연령 등에 따른 AR기술 활용 등의 디지털 격차를 해소하는데 정부 및 지자체, 대기업 등이 함께 그 방안을 마련해야 한다.
This study aimed to explore sustainable fashion design plans and directions by analyzing Marine Serre’s collection. Previous research was reviewed to derive classifications of the aesthetic characteristics of sustainable fashion design. This classification was then used to analyze the characteristics of the Marine Serre collection. Design analysis was conducted on Marine Serre’s 2018 FW to 2023 SS collections. Marine Serre’s sustainability characteristics are functionality, surprise, handicraft, and inclusion. The results are as follows. First, functionality is the highest among the four characteristics and includes the functionality of movement, the functionality of form, and futurism. This characteristic was observed in the use of all-in-one body suits, pockets, and workwear, showing the will and values of designers who value daily activity. Second, surprise includes the scarcity of materials and the unexpectedness of composition. The value of the clothing is enhanced by the use of scarce materials not typically used in clothing. In addition, Marine Serre is highly regarded for expanding clothing into life by incorporating material upcycling into the theme of the collection. Third, handcrafted features include exaggerated decorations, logo, retro designs, and natural properties, and intentional utilization is differentiated. Marine Serre’s signature pattern suggests a suitable expression for the fabric to use the crescent moon for the season. Fourth, the collection expresses themes of inclusivity and cultural diversity. The results indicate that Marine Serre wants to contribute to a better future characterized by global coexistence.
Although interest in eco-friendly fashion products is increasing among scholars and industry leaders, the concept of eco-friendly products remains unclear, preventing consistent assessment of which fashion products are eco-friendly. This study conducted a content analysis of eco-friendly product information from 87 domestic and 102 foreign brands to reveal key standards for categorizing eco-friendly fashion products. Product characteristic information was coded according to the four material-based standards (i.e., organic material, regenerative material, alternative material, and sustainably produced/upcycled material). Consistency between coders was confirmed by Cohen’s kappa. In results, eco-friendly fashion products are categorized by four material-based standards and two certification standards (i.e., certified, not certified). Among the four material-based categories, the greatest number of domestic and foreign companies produced eco-friendly products that were classified as the regenerative material group. In addition, companies acquired eco-friendly certifications related to the use of organic, regenerative, and alternative materials. The greatest number of eco-friendly material brands used for eco-friendly fashion products belonged to the regenerative material group. Based on the study results, a typology of eco-friendly products was suggested. This typology can benefit practitioners and academics by highlighting a need for classification system for the eco-friendly fashion products, as well as by providing insight into the categorization of eco-friendly fashion products.
본 연구는 패션 산업현장에서 발생하는 실제 문제 해결을 위해 필요한 지식을 자기 주도적으로 학습하고, 이를 실제 상황에서 적용하여 협업을 통한 창의적인 문제 해결 능력을 습득할 수 있는 PBL 기반 디자이씽킹 을 활용한 패션디자인 수업모델을 제안하는 것을 목적으로 하고 있다. 연구 내용은 PBL과 디자인씽킹의 핵심 요소들을 융합한 DT-PBL 모델 을 적용한 수업을 설계하고 부마민주항쟁 기념상품개발이라는 실제적인 시나리오를 중심으로 문제해결안을 도출해가는 수업 과정을 운영하였다. 수업 운영 결과, 학습자는 자기 주도적 학습 활동을 진행하는 과정에서 소통과 협업 능력을 발휘하여 창의적인 문제해결안을 도출하는 역량이 향상되는 학습 성과를 확인할 수 있었다. 따라서, DT-PBL은 패션 관련 전공 PBL 교과목 수업 설계 시 디자인씽킹을 활용하여 패션산업 현장의 실무를 창의적이고 자기 주도적으로 문제해결안을 도출할 수 있는 효율 적인 패션디자인 수업모델과 수업사례로 활용될 수 있기를 기대한다.
The aim of this study was to analyze the design characteristics of Chinese fashion designer Feng Chen Wang and interpret their implicit meaning from a neo-deconstruction perspective. A review of domestic and foreign literature, outlined the development of deconstruction and neo-deconstruction, with neo-deconstruction’s aesthetic features termed ‘traditional fusion’, ‘positive playfulness’, ‘open communication’, and ‘multiple inclusiveness’. These features informed an analysis of Feng Chen Wang’s fashion design. Four key findings emerged. First, ‘traditional fusion’ combines traditional Chinese colors, items, handicrafts, and patterns with modern design to break down boundaries between past and modern, tradition and fashion. Second, ‘positive playfulness’ promotes creativity and fun, using bright colors, exaggerated accessories, and playing withthe composition of traditional clothes to create a positive atmosphere. Third, ‘open communication’ emphasizes design that combines practicality and creativity in response to consumer needs, incorporating the thoughts arising from individual experiences and interest in social phenomena. Fourth, ‘multiple inclusiveness’ breaks down boundaries of sexuality, hierarchy, and body shape, embracing various ideas of beauty and respecting uniqueness through design that are seen as available to all. Using a neo-deconstruction perspective, Feng Chen Wang provides novel product planning ideas for Chinese fashion brands and reflects the values and meaning of modern design pursued by contemporary Chinese designers.
This study was aimed at examining the characteristics of women’s blue denim on the basis of design elements to provide fundamental data for fashion majors and fashion designers. Seven design elements were selected from previous studies to compare them with the following characteristics of blue denim: color (washing, dyeing), ornamentation (trimming, detailing, painting, and printing), and form modification, tearing, and ripping). Data from 1,520 photographs of the 2019 S/S to the 2023–24 F/W collections were collected through overlapping checks. The data were then subjected to frequency analysis using the Statistical Package for the Social Sciences (version 26). The results are as follows: The most frequent design method used in producing the denim items in our sample was washing, followed by modification, tearing, and ripping and detailing. The greatest change in denim design occurred in 2023, and more design element changes were observed in the F/W season than in the S/S season. Washing was used four times or more frequently than dyeing, while detailing was employed approximately 2 times more often than trimming. With respect to form, the most common approach was modification, followed by tearing and ripping.