The conditions for minimizing dyes and additives when dyeing cellulose fibers such as linen, ramie, and hemp fabrics were obtained using glucose, an organic reducing agent. Dyeability and colorfastness were measured through repeated dyeing. The overall surface dyeing concentration followed the linen>hemp>ramie order, and most of the colors were in the range of PB (PurpleBlue). As the glucose concentration increased, the blue series was strengthened, and the color was dark and clear. It was determined that glucose the concentration of 4g/L was appropriate for minimizing the amount of dye. When the dyeing temperature was 30℃, the surface dyeing concentration was the highest, and the color was dark and clear. Although the dyeing concentration increased as NaOH concentration increased, 3g/L (pH 12.37) was considered appropriate for the minimum NaOH concentration, which becomes gradual after the dyeing concentration increased rapidly. It was found that the surface dyeing concentration, when repeated six times for 5 min, was better than that of dyeing once for 30 min. Washing, rubbing, and perspiration colorfastness were all found to be excellent in grades 4–4-5, and colorfastness to light was excellent in grades 5 of linen and hemp and grade 4 of ramie.

In this study, natural dyeing using Polygonum tinctoria was performed with linen, ramie, and hemp, which are biodegradable cellulose fibers, considering environmental aspects. In particular, the impacts of alkali NaOH and reducing agent Na2S2O4 were examined, and the possibilities of minimizing the use and reusing the dye were explored. The surface dye concentrations were found to be in the following order: hemp>linen>ramie. With the increase in all additives, the L* value decreased, and the ⊿E and K/S values increased gradually. When Na2S2O4 was 1g/L, the surface color of the dye appeared uniformly from the NaOH concentration of 0.4g/L (pH 10.84). When NaOH was 0.4g/L, the K/S values of linen and ramie increased rapidly after 0.4g/L of Na2S2O4, and hemp maintained a stable color from 0.6g/L of Na2S2O4. With the increase in the dye concentration from 1 to 6g/L, all the fibers were dyed uniformly. The K/S value increased or higher doubled upon repeated dyeing six times for 5 min than when dyed only once for 30 min. Therefore, the linen, ramie, and hemp fibers dyed repeatedly exhibited good washing, rubbing, and colorfastness to perspiration, which was rated between 4 and 4–5, and that to light was rated as 5. Moreover, no discoloration due to sunlight was observed. Finally, linen exhibited a bacterial reduction of 99.9%, thereby indicating its excellent antibacterial property.

The purpose of this research was to revive the bathochromic effects of wool fabrics by using natural dyestuffs with minimum heavy metallic mordants. The natural dyestuffs used in this research were the indigo plant, Phellodendron amurense, and Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 1 was pre-dyed five times with indigo. Sample no. 2 was pre-dyed five times with indigo and then once dyed with Phellodendron amurense. Following the same method as sample no. 2 with an additional Phellodendron, Sample no. 3 consisted of a pre-dye five times with indigo and twice with Phellodendron amurense. Sample no. 4 was pre-dyed six times with indigo and then once dyed with Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 5 followed the same method as no. 4 with an additional dye of Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 6 was pre-dyed five times with indigo and then once dyed with Phellodendron amurense and once dyed with Caesalpinia sappan. The results were as follows: first, all samples showed deeper colors. Second, according to the results of the surface K/S measurement, the surface K/S of wool fabrics was >20. Third, the results of lightfastness measurement showed superiority over grade 4 in samples no. 1, 2, 3, 5, and 6. However, sample no. 4 was grade 3. In the colorfastness to washing measurement, sample no. 2 showed greater superiority than grade 3—4, while samples no. 1 and 3 were grade 3. In addition, the colorfastness to dry cleaning for all samples was satisfactory or excellent by more than grade 3.

본 연구는 친환경적이고 감성적인 패션상품의 색채기획을 위한 자료를 제공하고자 수행되었다. 쪽과 괴화로 복합 염색 후 무매염 견직물과 4종의 매염제(Al, Cu, Fe, Zn)를 처리한 견직물에 대하여 색채특성을 측정하였다. 또한 복합염색 후 매염처리된 연두색 견직물에 대하여 여대생을 대상으로 색채감성과 색채 선호도를 조사하였으며, 색채 특성과 색채감성이 색채 선호도에 미치는 영향을 분석하였다. 쪽/괴화로 복합염색된(무매염) 견직물은 선 염색한 쪽 농도가 10 g/ℓ이면 녹색, 쪽 20 g/ℓ을 사용하면 청록색을 나타내었으며, 4종의 매염제를 사용하여 처리시 거의 모든 경우 연두색을 나타내었다. 연두색을 나타내는 복합염색된 견직물 10종의 색채감성을 요인분석한 결과, 유쾌성, 품위성, 편안성 요인으로 분류되었으며, 이러한 색채감성은 쪽 농도와 매염제의 종류에 따라 대부분 유의한 차이를 보였다. 또한 복합염색된 연두색 견직물의 색채특성과 색채감성요인 간에는 대부분 유의한 상관성을 보여, L＊값, b＊값, C＊값이 크고 a＊값이 작을수록 유쾌성과 편안성 감성을 더 강하게 느끼며, L＊값이 작고 a＊값이 클수록 품위성 감성을 더욱 느끼는 것으로 나타났다. 따라서 쪽과 괴화로 복합염색하고 매염처리한 연두색 견직물의 색채감성요인을 예측변수로 활용할 수 있는 색채 선호도 예측 회귀식이 제안되었다.

본 연구에서는 인체 친화적이고 환경 친화적인 패션제품 소재기획을 위한 기초 자료를 제시하고자 수행되었다. 이를 위해서 4종의 섬유소 소재를 대상으로 염색조건을 달리하여 천연 쪽 염색을 실시하여 색채특성과 색채감성을 평가하였으며, 이러한 특성이 선호도에 미치는 영향을 분석하였다. 쪽 염색된 직물은 모두 중, 저명도와 저채도의 남색(PB)을 구현하였다. 이들 직물의 색채특성은 섬유종류와 염색조건에 따라 유의한 차이를 보였다. 쪽 염색된 직물에 대한 색채감성은 스포티 감성, 클래식 감성, 내추럴 감성 등 3가지 요인으로 분류되었다. 이러한 색채감성은 섬유종류와 염색조건에 따라 부분적으로 유의한 차이를 나타내었다. 또한 쪽 염색 직물의 색채특성과 색채감성 요인 간에는 부분적으로 유의한 상관관계를 보였다. 쪽 염색 직물의 색채 선호도에 영향을 주는 요인으로는 색채감성 요인 중에서 클래식 감성과 스포티 감성, 색채특성에서는 L*값인 것으로 나타났다.

The introduction of natural dyes into modern dye houses is very promising green chemistry concept that should be popularized more to reduce the dependency of leather dyeing on some toxic and non-biodegradable synthetic dyes. In this study, the properties of dyeing of cochineal on cow leather were evaluated. The proper dyeing conditions were identified with dye uptake (K/S values) depending on the colorant concentration, dyeing duration, dyeing temperature, and dye bath pH. For the proper mordanting conditions, color changes for different mordants were observed as La*b* and H V/C values. Color fastness (light, rubbing, and dry cleaning) was also examined. Additionally, antibacterial properties and UV protection were examined. The results were as follows: The optimized dyeing conditions were 300% o.w.f., 40°C, 40 min., and pH 5. The cow leather color was red in the absence of mordanting, while it was red purple after being mordanted with Al and Cu, and purple mordanted with Fe. The K/S value of cow leathers increased in the order of the dyeing using AlK(SO4)2>CuSO4>FeSO4. The colorfastness to light and rubbing were reduced compared to original (untreated) cow leather. However dry cleaning fastness was very satisfactory, with a 4~5 rating. The dyed and pre-mordanting dyed cow leather showed excellent antibacterial properties.

The purpose of this research is to revive the colors of combination dyeing and mixed dyeing with natural dyestuffs. The fabrics used were cotton and rayon. The natural dyestuffs used in this research were indigo, Phellodendron amurense, and Caesalpinia sappan. The effects of combination dyeing were as follows. First, all samples showed deeper colors. Second, according to the results of the surface K/S measurement, while the surface K/S of cotton was over 15, that of rayon was over 17. Third, the results of the light fastness measurement showed the superiority (by over grade 4) of all the samples, except in the case of rayon fiber sample no. 6 (which had been pre-dyed with indigo five times before being dyed with P. amurense once and then being dyed with C. sappan once). In the color fastness to washing measurement, all fibers showed superiority (by over grade 3~4). In addition, the color fastness to dry cleaning of all fibers was satisfactory or excellent (by over grade 3). Fourth, according to the results of the tensile strength measurement, it tended to decrease in the case of cotton and increase in the case of rayon. Fifth, the results of the density measurement showed that the density of cotton decreased by about 15~20% in the case of warp and 10% in the case of weft for all samples. The density of rayon decreased 20% in the case of warp for all samples and increased 30% in the case of weft for all samples.

본 연구에서는 현대 패션 산업에서 활용하는 색채 기획 프로세스에 기반하여 제주의 대표적인 천연 자원 추출물로 면직물을 염색하고 물리적 색채와 트렌드 색채감성을 분석하여 2016S/S 시즌을 목표로 천연염색 유․아동복 디자인을 위한 감성 색채 테마를 제안하고자 하였다. 제주의 전통 염색 자원인 풋감과 주요 농산물인 감귤, 해양식물인 감태를 각각 분말염료로 제조하고 단일 염색과 복합염색을 병행하여 다양한 색채를 면직물에 구현하고, 2016S/S 유행색을 중심으로 Pantone TPX에 매칭하여 시즌 유행색의 감성 이미지를 고려하여 천연염색 유․아동복 디자인 기획에 활용 할 수 있는 감성 색채 테마를 제안하였다. 연구 결과로서 제주 천연자원을 이용한 직물 염색 색채는 Purple Blue에서 Green Yellow에 이르는 색상과 pale, light grayish, soft, grayish, dull의 톤을 나타내었다. 이 중에서 38개의 천연염 색 색채가 인터컬러와 한국 CFT에서 제안한 2016S/S 유행색의 일부를 포함한 23종의 Pantone TPX에 매칭되었다. 매칭된 Pantone 색채들을 활용하여 세 가지 컬러웨이를 설정하고 각 컬러웨이의 색채들에 대한 주관적 감성 평가를 실시하여 컬러웨이 그룹별로 차별화되는 색채 감성을 추출하였다. 이 결과를 기반으로 최종적으로 2016S/S 유행색 테마에서 가지는 감성 이미지와 염색에 활용된 제주 천연자원의 고유 특성 및 유․아동복에의 적합성을 고려하여 ‘Serenity’와 ‘Juicy’, ‘Fancy’의 세 가지 색채 감성 테마를 제안하였다. 본 연구의 결과는 유행색의 감성에 기반한 색채 기획 프로세스가 확립되지 않은 천연염색 산업에서 활용할 수 있는 색채기획 가이드 라인을 제공함과 동시에, 제주의 지역 특화 천연염색 색채에서 도출될 수 있는 색채감성 테마를 제안하였다는 데에 의의가 있다.

In this study, the dyeing of silk fabric with Polygonum cuspidatum extracts was investigated. The contents of this study are as follows. First, the proper dyeing conditions were investigated by measuring the dye uptake (K/S value) that depended on the dyeing conditions when silk fabric was dyed with Polygonum cuspidatum extract. Second, the brightness (L), hue, and chroma differences that appear after mordanting with Al, Cu and Fe were investigated by measuring the CIELAB and Munsell values. And third, the colorfastness and antibacterial property were measured. When the silk fabric was dyed with Polygonum cuspidatum extract, the proper dyeing conditions were a colorant concentration of 90% v/v, a dyeing of time 100 minutes, a dyeing temperature of 70℃, and a dyeing of pH 3. In mordanting methods, the dyeabilities of post-mordanting were higher than those of premordanting. The hue value displayed yellow (Y) and yellow-red (YR) in cases of pre and post mordanting. The C value decreased by the mordanting of Polygonum cuspidatum extracts. Generally the colorfastness of mordanted fabrics was improved by mordanting. The dyed fabrics showed a 90.6% of Staphylococcus aureus reduction rate, and the dyed and mordanted fabrics showed 97.1% bacteria reduction rate. The dyed and mordanted fabrics showed above 90.5% Klebsiella pneumoniae reduction rate, and Cu mordant revealed the most effective bacterial reduction.

The fabric, 100% Silk, was dyed with Atractylodes japonica extract solution. The effects of concentration of extracts (colorant), temperature of dyeing, time of dyeing and pH of dye bath were studied. As the concentration of extracts increased, color strength (K/S value) increased progressively. The K/S values increased with raising temperature, time and proper conditions were 80℃ and 80 minutes. Maximum K/S value was obtained at pH 3. The K/S values of mordanted fabrics were increased with increasing mordant concentration up to specific values. Surface color of dyed and mordanted fabrics were yellowish. Light color fastness of fabric with mordanting was fairly good 3/4 rating. The mordanted silk fabrics showed excellent antibacterial activity. The silk fabric dyed with Atractylodes japonica extract showed a superior UV protective property.

This study analyzes and compares Hanji made with loess to Hanji made with kaolin, two yellow-based inorganic pigments, in terms of its physical properties, optical properties, and color fastness to light with the aim of using it as a fashion material. Hanji made by adding inorganic pigments showed an approximately 20% retention ratio on average. This figure was similar to those of loess and kaolin. Physical properties were analyzed, with the following results. A higher amount of additives lowered the apparent density and increased thickness and bulk. In general, inorganic pigment-added Hanji had lower tensile strength, bursting strength, and folding endurance compared to non-additive Hanji. The analysis of optical properties showed a lower brightness index for Hanji made with inorganic pigments compared to non-additive Hanji. When comparing the two inorganic pigments, the brightness of Hanji made with kaolin was higher. Regarding color fastness to light, loess showed level 4 and kaolin showed level 5 when 25% inorganic pigments on pulp were added to Hanji. Thus, Hanji made by adding inorganic pigments during the manufacturing process may perform well as materials for fashion because the additives enhanced both the color fastness to light and the bulk while maintaining the strength. In addition, Hanji dyed with inorganic pigments may have the potential to serve as materials for the fashion industry while still retaining the characteristics of Hanji.

The natural dyeing of silk fabric with Thuja orientalis extract was investigated. The proper colorant concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and pH for the dyeing of silk fabric with Thuja orientalis extract were 100% v/v, 80℃, 80 minutes and pH 3, respectively. In various mordanted methods, the K/S values of mordanted methods were higher than those of unmordanted methods with increasing mordant concentration. Light colorfastness and washing colorfastness of Cu or Fe mordanted silk fabric was improved by mordanting. The antibacterial properties of dyed and mordanted silk fabric showed a high reduction rate, and Thuja orientalis extract was showed effective bacterial reduction. The dyed and mordanted fabric with Thuja orientalis extract showed a superior ultraviolet protection property.

This study dyed rayon fabric using loess as a natural colorant. To obtain the optimal dyeing conditions, various dyeing conditions were examined (temperature, pH, time, and concentration). The color fastness was evaluated using standard washing and rubbing fastness tests. The results were as follows: The loess powder particle size ranged from 0.4 to 1.7 ㎛with a distribution range of 1.1 to 1.4 ㎛, representing a fine and uniform manufactured loess powder. The loess component analysis showed a large amount of silicon dioxide and aluminum oxide. TheFT-IR spectra showed that the ammonium group in the rayon fabric produced N-H banding at 1,540 ㎝-1 . The highest K/S value for the rayon fabric was obtained when the pH was 8.0, and this value increased rapidly with a longer dyeing time and when increasing the loess concentration to 30% (w/v). Pre-treatment with a soybean solution produced the highest K/S value for the rayon fabric with a loess concentration of 30% (w/v). The SEM analysis showed a higher amount of loess adhered to the rayon fabric surface when increasing the loess concentration. However, pre-treatment with a cationic agent and soybean solution resulted in a much higher attachment of loess to the fabric surface. Thus, the experimental results showed that using a cationized fabric and pre-treatment with a soybean solution are more effective when dyeing rayon fabric with loess than when using only loess.

본 논문은 천연염색에서 각 염료의 혼합 염색에 따른 발색 재현 기술을 개바람으로써 다양한 천연 염료를 사용한 혼한 염색의 결과에 대한 발색 시뮬레이터의 개발에 기여하고자 한다. 천연 염색을 위한 염료로는 쪽과 홍화를 사용하였으며 염색을 위한 직물로는 모시를 이용하였다. 쪽 및 홍화의 반복 염색을 통해 염색된 직물의 분광 반사율을 모델링하고 이로부터 혼합 염색에 대한 결과를 예측하는 알고리즘을 제안하였다. 즉, 단일 염료에 대한 직물의 분광 반사율을 추정하기 위해서 각 염료별로, 염색횟수에 따른 감쇄 계수를 계산하여 분광반사율의 변화를 예측하였으며 이를 바탕으로 염료별로 계산한 감쇄 계수의 1차 선형 조합으로 복합 염색된 직물의 분광반사율을 추정하였다. 제안된 방법의 성능평가를 위해 쪽과 홍화로 혼합 염색한 실제 시료와 제안한 방법으로 예측한 시료의 영상에 대하여 정량적인 색차평가를 수행하였다. 결과, 평균 색차 8 미만의 수준에서 복합 염색의 발색을 예측 할 수 있음을 확인하였다.

본 연구에서는 검정팥 종피에 함유된 천연색소에 대한 연구의 일환으로, 천연염료로서의 적용을 위해 염색조건 즉 염색온도, 염색시간, 염색 pH, 욕비에 따른 K/S 값을 측정하여 적정 염색조건을 설정하고, 여러 매염제를 적용하여 색상변화에 미치는 영향 및 견뢰도를 측정하여 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 1. pH에 따른 염색성에서는 견직물의 경우 pH 4에서 가장 염착량이 많았고, 면직물의 경우에는 주어진 범위 내에서 는 pH가 높을수록 염착량이 많았다. 2. 염색온도와 시간에 따른 염색성은, 견직물의 경우, 염색온도 와 에서는 전반적으로 염착량이 낮고 시간에 따른 염착량의 차이도 크지 않았으나 염색온도 에서는 시간이 경과할수록 K/S 값이 크게 나타났다. 면직물의 경우도 견직물과 비슷한 결과로 온도가 높아질수록 염색시간이 경과될수록 K/S 값이 크게 나타났다. 3. 견직물에 대한 매염제 종류별 표면색의 변화에서는 Fe 매염포만 YRY 로 변화되었을 뿐 다른 매염제에서는 매염후에도 색상 변화는 크지 않았다. Sn 매염과 Ti 매염포는 무 매염포 보다 값이 상승하였으나 나머지 매염제는 값이 크게 감소되었다. 면직물에 대한 표면색의 변화는 견직물에서와 같은 경향으로 나타났으며, 값에 있어서는 견직물과 다르게 Ni 매염포만 무매염포보다 값이 크게 나타났다. 4. 매염처리 전 견직물의 일광 견뢰도는 무매염이 4~6등급, Al 처리포는 4~5등급, Cu와 Sn은 3~4등급으로 나타났고 Fe는 2~3등급으로 가장 낮게 나타났으며, 세탁견뢰도에서는 무매염 2등급, 매염제 처리포는 전부 2내지 3등급으로 나타났다. 무매염 면직물의 일광견뢰도는 1~2등급, Fe 매염은 2~3등급, Cu 2등급 Al과 Sn은 1~2등급으로 매염처리에 의해 전혀 개선되지 않았으며, 세탁견뢰도의 경우 Cu매염이 4등급으로 양호하게 나타났으며 무매염, Al, Sn과 Fe는 3등급으로 나타났다.

본 논문에서는 쪽을 이용한 천연염색에서 염색의 횟수에 따른 발색 재현 기술을 개발함으로써 반복 염색에 따른 발색 시뮬레이터의 개발에 기여하고자 한다. 천연염료로는 쪽을 사용하였고 염색의 매질로는 닥원료를 사용하였다. 닥원료를 1회에서 70회까지 반복하여 염색한 닥죽을 만들고 이를 제지하여 천연염색된 감지(紺紙)를 제작하였다. 원지로부터 반복 염색된 감지의 발색을 재현하기 위하여 주성분 분석법을 이용하였다. 주성분 분석을 위해 모집단으로는 멘셀색시료를 사용하였으며 RGB카메라를 고려하여 3개의 기저함수로 부터 직물의 분광반사율을 모델링하였다. 그리고 닥원료로 만든 원지(原紙)와 염색된 감지의 분광반사율을 기저함수의 선형조합으로 표현하고 이로부터 염색횟수에 따른 감지의 분광 반사율의 변화를 예측하기 위한 감쇄함수를 구하는 방법을 제안하였다. 제안된 방법의 성능평가를 위해 염색 횟수별로 실제 염색한 감지와 원지로 부터 예측한 영상을 비교하고 정량적인 색차평가를 수행하였다. 결과 반복 염색시 재현성이 일정하다는 가정에서 색차 1미만의 범위에서 천연염색에 따른 감지의 발색을 재현 할 수 있음을 확인하였다.

The purpose of this study was the efficient use of the black rice bran for dyeing textiles. For this purpose, we investigated proper extracting conditions of black rice bran, dyeability and dyeing fastness of dyed silk fabrics. To find proper extracting condition of black rice bran, we extracted black rice bran with water at different temperatures(, , ), different extracting pH(pH3, pH4, pH5, pH6) and extracting time(20, 40, 60, 80, 100, 120, 140, 160, 180min.). Also we investigated the effect of dyeing time(1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6hr.), dyeing temperature(, , ) and mordanting method(non, pre, sim, post) to examine dyeability and dyeing fastness of dyed silk fabrics. As a result, when the extracting temperature and time were , 3hr., respectively, extracting was best. And the higher the extracting concentration, the more the extracting amount. As the dyeing temperature and time were higher and longer, the dyeability of silk fabrics was better. With mordant, the dyeability was improved and when using premordant method better, the K/S value was maximized. The laundering fastness of the silk fabrics dyed with black rice bran was estimated to have a good grade of 3~4, however, the light fastness was poor to have a grade of 1~2.