편백나무(Chamaecyparis obtusa)는 측백나무과에 속하며 우리나라 남쪽 지역에서 주로 잘 자 생한다. 편백나무의 목재는 재질이 우수하여 가구로서의 활용이 높으며 남은 목재, 가지, 잎은 정유 추출에 사용되고 있다. 편백 정유는 항염, 향균, 탈취, 진정 효능이 탁월한 것으로 알려져 있다. 본 연구는 이러한 편백나무의 잎에서 추출한 오일이 주름 개선, 피부 장벽 및 보습능에 미치는 영향을 평가하고자 하였다. 먼 저, DPPH assay와 ABTS assay를 통해 항산화 활성을 평가한 결과, 편백 오일은 두 가지 라디칼을 농도 의존적으로 유의하게 소거하였다. 그리고 주름 생성 억제 효능 평가를 위해 elastase 활성을 측정한 결과, 편백 오일은 elastase 활성을 직접적으로 억제시킴을 확인하였다. 다음으로는 real-time PCR을 통해 유전 자 발현을 확인한 결과, 편백 오일은 인간섬유아세포에서 MMP-1 유전자 발현을 유의하게 감소시켰다. 또 한, 편백 오일에 의해 각질형성세포에서 filaggrin과 HAS-2 유전자 발현이 유의하게 증가함을 확인하였다. 이러한 결과를 종합해보면, 편백 오일은 주름 개선과 피부 장벽 및 보습능 강화에 도움을 주어 항노화 화장 품의 기능성 원료로서 활용될 수 있을 것으로 기대된다.

The use of bee venom (Apis mellifera L., BV) occasionally causes side effects such as inflammation and allergic reactions in the recipients. Several case reports also suggested the treatment of BV has some limitations in its clinical uses, due to the occurrence of dermal necrosis and anaphylatic reactions. It is generally understood that bee venom allergy is mainly the result of its allergic component, phospholipase A2 (PLA2). The present study was aimed to generate PLA2-free bee venom (PBV) and evaluate its efficacy as skin care and cosmetic preparation, comparing with original bee venom (BV). Our results showed that both BV and PBV exhibited significant protective effects in UVB-irradiated human keratinocyte (HaCaT) and human dermal fibroblast (HDF) cells and they also induced type I collagen synthesis in UVB-irradiated HDF cells except BV at 3 μg/ml. Furthermore, BV and PBV showed the inhibition of UVB-stimulated matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), a major collagen degrading enzyme in skin. However, BV, unlike PBV, exhibited strong cytotoxicities in skin cells (both HaCaT and HDF) at its working concentrations of anti-wrinkle effect. The underlying cell signaling mechanisms of anti-wrinkle effects of BV and PBV were demonstrated by the activation of ERK1/2, and p38. Conclusively, PBV appears to be the bee venom of choice with less cytotoxicity and higher efficacy on UVB-irradiated skin cells in comparison with original bee venom (BV). Therefore, PBV can better be used as a cosmetic ingredient exhibiting excellent anti-wrinkle effect against photoaging than original BV.

Dictyophora indusiata (Vent.) Desv., “Queen of the mushroom”, is a mushroom in family Phallaceae of Basidiomycota, which is commonly used as edible and medicinal mushroom in China and Korea. This study initiated to evaluate the anti-cholinesterase, skin anti-wrinkle and melanogenesis inhibitory of 80% methanol extract from fruiting body of D.indusiata. In the anti-cholinesterase experiment, acetyl-cholinesterase and butyryl-cholinesterase inhibitory activities were performed. The extract were inhibited acetyl-cholinesterase and butyryl-cholinesterase 44.09% and 49.14% at the concentration 1 mg/mL, respectively. The skin anti-wrinkle effect of the extract were determined by measuring anti-collagenase and anti-elastase activities. While melanogenesis inhibitory activities were performed by tyrosinase, DOPA inhibitory and melanin synthesis inhibitory activities. The tyrosinase inhibitory activity of the extract were from 37.60~68.96%, while DOPA inhibitory activity were from 15.43 ~ 29.58% at the concentration ranged from 0.125~2.0 mg/mL. In addition, cellular tyrosinase activity was tested with result of the enzyme activity reduced from 99.09% to 72.91% against 25~500 μg/mL of the extract. The methanol extract of D.indusiata was inhibited melanin synthesis activity 41.86% at the concentration 500 μg/mL. The collagenase inhibitory activity of the extract from D.indusiata were 34.87%, which was comparable with the positive control, EGCG ( 45.31%). While the extract showed good inhibition of elastase enzyme (46.64%). The experiment results suggested that fruiting body of Dictyophora indusiata could be used as natural anti-cholinesterase and skin care agents.

본 연구는 여성의 손으로부터 분리한 두 유산균의 co-culture에 의한 향장 활성에 대한 것이다. Lactobacillus rhamnosus (L. rhamnosus)와 Lactobacillus paracasei (L. paracasei)를 함께 배양하는 것은 최초이며, co-culture를 이용한 유산균은 tyrosinase 저해율이 L. paracasei와 L. rhamnosus에 비해 20.68%로 가장 높은 수치를 보였다. 또한, co-culture 유산균은 melanin 생성 저해율에서도 63.5%의 가장 높은 활성을 보였으며, 주름개선활성에 영향을 미치는 MMP-1의 생성량이 3726.3 pg/mL로 확인되었다. 반면 단일 유산균 배양시 얻어지는 MMP-1 생성량은 각각 L. rhamnosus가 13613.5 pg/mL, L. paracasei는 13012.0 pg/mL이 확인되었다. Collagen 생성량을 확인한 결과 co-culture 유산균이 380.7 ng/mL로 323.4 ng/mL의 양이 확인된 L. paracasei와 304.1 ng/mL의 양이 확인된 L. rhamnosus보다 많은 양이 생성됨을 확인하였다. 상기의 결과는 유산균의 co-culture가 향장 활성 증진을 시킬 수 있다는 것을 나타내고, 이는 향장 활성에 영향을 미치는 항산화 활성을 측정한 결과 단일 유산균 배양을 통한 결과보다 co-culture 유산균의 항산화 활성이 더 높은 것으로 확인할 수 있었다.

This study was to investigate anti-skin wrinkle effect of Agastache rugosa Kentz extracts by extraction processes.In the comparison of the effect of the solvent extraction, the extracts by 70% ethanol (EE) showed better biological activitiesthat those by hot water. Therefore, further fermented Agastache rugosa was applied to 70% ethanol extraction process(FEE). FEE showed higher DPPH scavenging activity of 62.98% than EE’s 62.71% at 1.0㎎/㎖, but there was no significant.Elastase inhibition was measured 23.0% from FEE at 1.0㎎/㎖. Cytotoxicity showed the highest 16.26% from FEE, thisvalue is safe in the cell experiment. Collagen production showed 113.1ng/㎖ from FEE, on the other hand EE was measured77.4ng/㎖ in adding 1.0㎎/㎖. MMP-1 production was observed 1398pg/㎖ from FEE and EE was measured1632pg/㎖. These results were found the highest antioxidant and anti-wrinkle effect. As a result, it was also confirmed thatanti-skin wrinkle activities of the Agastache rugosa Kentz extract was correlated with anti-oxidant activities.

This study was to investigate anti-skin wrinkle effect of aronia extracts by extraction processes. The 70% etha-nol extract by ultrasonification process (UEE) showed highest DPPH scavenging activity of 90.4% in order water extract(WE), 70% ethanol extract (EE) was measured 84.2%, 84.3%. collagen production measured 245ng/㎖ from UEE. WE wasmeasured 53.5ng/㎖ and EE was measured 224.4ng/㎖. MMP-1 production was observed lowest 22.5pg/㎖ at UEE.MMP-1 production of EE was 34.6pg/㎖ and WE was 102.3pg/㎖. These results were found the highest antioxidant andanti-wrinkle effect at UEE among three processes. It was also confirmed that anti-skin wrinkle activities of the aroniaextract was strongly correlated with anti-oxidant activities due to high amounts of antocyanins in the extract.

콜라겐은 포유동물의 가장 풍부한 동물성 단백질로, 전체 단백질의 약 30 %를 차지하며, 결합 조직에 존재하며 대부분의 장기의 구조적 지지에 기여한다. Tripeptide (glycine-proline-hydroxyproline; INCI name Tripeptide-29)는 collagen type I의 주성분이며, palmitoyl tripeptide (palmitoyl-glycine-proline-hydroxyproline; INCI name Palmitoyl Tripeptide-29)는 콜라겐의 합성을 촉진하는 항노화 물질로서 디자인된 합성소재이다. 합성된 펩타이드 유도체는 HPLC를 이용하여 분석하였다. in vitro test를 통하여 콜라겐합성과 섬유아세포 증식 효능을 확인하였고, 비침습적 기기를 사용하여 피검자에 대한 8주간의 적용결과 피부주름과 탄력의 상당한 개선을 확인하였다. Palmitoyl tripeptide는 우수한 항노화 효능을 갖는 화장품 소재로 사료된다.