전통염색지인 아청지(감지 : 쪽물 염색지)의 재현을 위해 고문헌 감지의 색상을 조사한 후 인도 쪽 분말과 전통니람법에 의해 제조한 염색한지의 염색특성을 검토한 결과는 다음과 같다. 인도산 쪽 분말로 제조한 염액으로 1회 염색한 경우 염색시간이 증가함에 따라 염착량과 색차 모두 증가하였으 며, 특히 염색시간 15분까지는 급격히 증가하였으나 이후 85분까지는 매우 완만하였다. 그러나 2회차에는 염색시간이 5분에서 40분까지는 색차나 염착량 모두 1회때 보다 약간 높거나 거의 같았으나, 40분 이후에는 오히려 감소하였다. 따라서 염색시간은 15분~30분 정도가 적정할 것으로 생각된다. 전통니람을 전통발효에 의해 얻은 쪽물로 반복염색(1회: 15분 염색, 15분 발색)하면서 염색횟수에 따른 색상을 비교한 결과, 1회의 염색에서의 색상은 1.9G로 그레이톤이었으나, 염색횟수가 증가함에 따라 색상도 G→BG→B→PB로 변화하며 색차와 염착량 모두 증가하여 고문서 감지의 색상인 PB는 8회의 염색한지에서 나타났다. 고문서 감지의 색차, 염착량 및 색상과 비슷한 염색횟수는 30번째로 색차 9.82, 염착량 8.56, 색상 6.0PB였다. 그러나 염색횟수는 염액의 인디고 함량에 크게 좌우되며, 인디고 함량이 높으면 염색횟수는 단축 가능할 것으로 생각된다.

본 연구는 친환경적이고 감성적인 패션상품의 색채기획을 위한 자료를 제공하고자 수행되었다. 쪽과 괴화로 복합 염색 후 무매염 견직물과 4종의 매염제(Al, Cu, Fe, Zn)를 처리한 견직물에 대하여 색채특성을 측정하였다. 또한 복합염색 후 매염처리된 연두색 견직물에 대하여 여대생을 대상으로 색채감성과 색채 선호도를 조사하였으며, 색채 특성과 색채감성이 색채 선호도에 미치는 영향을 분석하였다. 쪽/괴화로 복합염색된(무매염) 견직물은 선 염색한 쪽 농도가 10 g/ℓ이면 녹색, 쪽 20 g/ℓ을 사용하면 청록색을 나타내었으며, 4종의 매염제를 사용하여 처리시 거의 모든 경우 연두색을 나타내었다. 연두색을 나타내는 복합염색된 견직물 10종의 색채감성을 요인분석한 결과, 유쾌성, 품위성, 편안성 요인으로 분류되었으며, 이러한 색채감성은 쪽 농도와 매염제의 종류에 따라 대부분 유의한 차이를 보였다. 또한 복합염색된 연두색 견직물의 색채특성과 색채감성요인 간에는 대부분 유의한 상관성을 보여, L＊값, b＊값, C＊값이 크고 a＊값이 작을수록 유쾌성과 편안성 감성을 더 강하게 느끼며, L＊값이 작고 a＊값이 클수록 품위성 감성을 더욱 느끼는 것으로 나타났다. 따라서 쪽과 괴화로 복합염색하고 매염처리한 연두색 견직물의 색채감성요인을 예측변수로 활용할 수 있는 색채 선호도 예측 회귀식이 제안되었다.

This study measured dyeing properties under different dyeing conditions and levels of antimicrobial activity when man-made fibers are dyed with gallnut, including rayon, tencel, tencel blended fabric, soybean fiber, and nylon non-mordanted. The dye up-take (K/S), color (L*a*b*), and color differences (△E) were measured with a colorimeter, and the number of bacteria present in the dyed fabrics were determined using Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumonia as strains. The results are as follows: First, the optimal dyeing conditions for man-made fibers dyed with gallnut are 60 minutes of dyeing time and a 80℃ dyeing temperature. Second, gallnut dye is most effective on soybean fiber and then, in descending order of effectiveness, on nylon, rayon, tencel, and tencel blended fabric. This means that dyeing properties of nitrogen containing fibers are excellent when using gallnut. Third, all man-made fibers are dyed brown with gallnut. This implies dyeing possibility of man-made fibers about gallnut dye, so development and supply of natural dyed goods of man-made fibers can be increased. Fourth, in all man-made fibers dyed with gallnut extract, both Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumonia show 99.9% reduction ratios of fungistasis, which indicate antimicrobial activity. Therefore, safe, functional, man-made materials can be developed to relieve symptoms from and treat patients with skin ailments.

This study was carried out in order to provide useful data for planning fabrics of summer eco-friendly fashion products. The fabrics used in this study were four cellulose fibers: cotton, cotton/mulberry blended, flax, and flax/lyocell blended. Dyeing with natural indigo was carried out under three different reducing conditions (i.e., general, eclectic, and eco-friendly) that have different reducing agent and pH levels, and hydrosulfite and glucose were used as a reducing agent. The dye uptake (K/S value) of fabrics dyed with natural indigo by a reducing condition was the highest at 660nm. Regardless of the fabrics, dye uptake was the highest under the general reducing condition and the lowest under the eco-friendly reducing condition. Under different reducing conditions, the dye uptake of natural indigo fabrics with the maximum absorption wavelength indicated a difference. The colorfastness of cellulose fabrics that were dyed with natural indigo had a rate of 4 to 5 except for rubbing fastness, which indicated good colorfastness. Additionally, natural indigo-dyed cotton and flax fabrics had good antibiosis. When the color characteristics of fabrics dyed with natural indigo were measured, all of the three reducing conditions created purple blue (PB) colors, and the color characteristics of dyed fabrics by reducing condition and fabric showed significant differences.

Natural dye extracted from Salicornia bigelovii was applied to silk fabrics by dip dyeing process. The dyeing properties and the functionalities of the silk fabrics were determined. Factors affecting the dyeing properties such as dyestuff concentration, temperature, time and pH were studied. The colorimetric parameters L*, a*, b*, and H, V/C values were measured to select the optimal mordanting conditions. The colorfastnesses of the dyed and mordanted fabrics were estimated for practical use; in addition, the antibacterial property, ultraviolet protection properties were evaluated. The dyeabilities of silk increased depending on the increasing dye concentration, dyeing time, and dyeing temperature. And optimum dyeing results were achieved when dyeing with 300% (o.w.f.) of dye concentration at 90℃ for 100 minutes and at pH 3. The dyed silk fabrics without mordants produced yellow (Y) color and showed yellow (Y) or green yellow (GY) colors depending on the mordants type. The light fastness of dyed and Al mordanted silk fabrics were found to be excellent, and the drycleaning and rubbing fastness were good. The dyed silk fabrics showed no antibacterial property, but Al and Cu mordanted silk fabrics showed 99.9% reduction rate. The ultraviolet protection properties of the dyed silk fabric was improved. And the ultraviolet protection properties of mordanted samples showed very good ultraviolet protection properties.

This study analyzes and compares Hanji made with loess to Hanji made with kaolin, two yellow-based inorganic pigments, in terms of its physical properties, optical properties, and color fastness to light with the aim of using it as a fashion material. Hanji made by adding inorganic pigments showed an approximately 20% retention ratio on average. This figure was similar to those of loess and kaolin. Physical properties were analyzed, with the following results. A higher amount of additives lowered the apparent density and increased thickness and bulk. In general, inorganic pigment-added Hanji had lower tensile strength, bursting strength, and folding endurance compared to non-additive Hanji. The analysis of optical properties showed a lower brightness index for Hanji made with inorganic pigments compared to non-additive Hanji. When comparing the two inorganic pigments, the brightness of Hanji made with kaolin was higher. Regarding color fastness to light, loess showed level 4 and kaolin showed level 5 when 25% inorganic pigments on pulp were added to Hanji. Thus, Hanji made by adding inorganic pigments during the manufacturing process may perform well as materials for fashion because the additives enhanced both the color fastness to light and the bulk while maintaining the strength. In addition, Hanji dyed with inorganic pigments may have the potential to serve as materials for the fashion industry while still retaining the characteristics of Hanji.

The pine needles has been used as medicines and it is using as dyeing as well as food. It is distributed through 50% in Korean forest. The pine needles is related to antimicrobial activity, however, dyeing properties of the extract components and effects of them are not well known yet. To examine dyeing properties of the pine needles extract, various fabrics(nylon, silk, wool, and soybean) were dyed under different dyeing conditions, and mordanted with one of five mordants(Al, Sn, Fe, Cr, and Cu). Dye uptake, Colors and Colorfastness of the dyed fabrics were measured. By the K/S values, dye uptake of all the dyed fabrics enhanced as increasing dyeing temperature and dyeing time. The highest K/S values were obtained from the protein fiber(wool and silk) fabrics dyed with water extract at 100℃, and with ethanol extract at 90℃ for 80 minutes. Colors of the dyed fabrics showed variety of yellow, brown and green colors. Colors changed by using Cu, Fe and Cr mordants: Cr-mordanted fabrics into light green, Fe-mordanted fabrics into reddish brown, and Cu-mordanted fabrics into deep green in ethanol extraction. Dry-cleaning fastness of the dyed fabrics presented good to excellent except wool fabrics dyed with ethanol extract. Washing fastness of the dyed nylon and soybean fabrics were good to excellent but wool and silk fabrics showed average grades. Most dyed fabrics were poor to light fastness.

The coffee has been used as drink in the world and it has been using not only food but also dyeing. It can be used for four seasons in our normal living and it can be taken friendly everywhere. The coffee consists of about 8～10% phenol(chlorogenic acid) that related to antioxidant and antimicrobial activity. However, its exact components and the dyeing property effects has not been well known yet. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeing property and ultraviolet-cut ability of silk and nylon fabrics that was dyed variously with coffee extracts. Coffee extracts were done by boiling coffee with distilled water at 100℃ for 2 hours. As mordanting agent, we used AlK(SO4)2․12H2O, CuSO4․5H2O, FeCl2․4H2O. As the result of the dyeing properties and ultraviolet-cut ability of fabrics dyed with coffee bean extracts, we can find that the optimum dyeing temperature and dyeing time of the silk and nylon fabrics dyed with coffee bean extracts was 90℃, 60 min. and the colorfastness of washing and dry-cleaning was improved by using mordanting agent(4～5 grade). Ultraviolet-cut ability was showed more 90% in dyed nylon fabrics.

이 연구의 목적은 이종산업인 섬유산업에서 사용되고 있는 천연염색의 원료인 천연염료의 항산화 활성을 확인하 는 것으로 이를 위해 총 페놀 함량 분석, DPPH 라디칼 소거능, ABTS 라디칼 소거능 및 단일항산소 억제 효과를 분석하였다. 7종의 천연염료 열수추출물에서 DPPH 라디 칼 소거 활성을 나타내는 IC50 값은 0.012~0.239 mg/mL를 나타내어 일부 색소 추출물의 DPPH 소거 활성이 우수하다 는 것을 알 수 있었다. 특히 폴리페놀함량이 높은 자단향과 아선약 추출물의 IC50 값이 각각 12.4 μg/mL, 24.2 μg/mL로 높은 DPPH 라디칼 소거 활성을 확인하였다. 단일항산소 억제 효과 역시 아선약, 자단향 추출물에서 각각 0.19, 0.21 mg/mL을 나타내어 높은 소거 활성을 띄는 것으로 강한 빛에 의해 야기되는 단일항산소(singlet oxygen)를 억제할 수 있는 것을 알 수 있었다. 총 페놀 함량도 열수추출물에서 높은 수준을 나타내었다. 반면, 플로라워터의 항산화 활성 은 열수추출물 대비 미비한 효과를 보였으나 한련초의 경우 열수추출물 보다 우수한 결과를 나타내었다. 플로라워터의 경우 액상시료를 첨가하여 수행되는 실험 방법에 의해 정량 적 수치를 명확히 나타내기 어렵기 때문에 연구 방법적 측면에서 개선이 필요할 것으로 판단된다. 결론적으로 일 부 천연색소 추출물은 생물체의 산화적 스트레스로부터 야기되는 활성산소를 억제하는 중요한 역할을 하며, 보다 심도 깊은 연구를 진행한다면 새로운 생물 소재로 활용성이 높을 것으로 사료된다.