This study examines how the concept of gender fluidity—viewing gender identity as a fluid and wide spectrum—is represented in modern knit fashion collections. The period spring/summer 2017–fall/winter 2021, when gender-related fashion keywords started attracting attention, was limited to the last five years, and the results of a case analysis focused on a total of 357 knit fashion photos are as follows. First, the androgynous compromise through the mixing of heterogeneous elements appears as a mix-and-match style due to the patchwork of heterogeneous materials and forms that borrow or share masculinity and femininity. Second, it was confirmed that the dismantling exaggeration caused by the destruction of the size and form of clothes was an avant-garde image that exaggerated the size or length of clothes or destroyed ideas and forms. Third, the exposed sensuality caused by the deformation of the fluid knitting technique was shown in the form of proudly expressing sexuality by exposing the body either using the cut-out technique or through the loose texture of the knit. Knit fashion can highlight decorative effects using handcrafted techniques and express a detailed or coarse sense of organization depending on the density. In addition, since it is possible to create a complex image by juxtaposing and mixing various knit structures, it was confirmed that it is a suitable material for expressing gender fluidity flowing between men and women in fashion.

The study aims to analyze the mixed characteristics of knit fashion design as demonstrated in Sacai's collection, which promotes hybrid and mesh-up fusion and proposes various knit design ideas. Standards for categorizing mixed phenomena of Sacai’s knit design were established through a review of literature and data analysis. The study’s data collection period was from 2012 to 2021, and a total of 174 items were analyzed. The following are the results. First is the fusion of traditional knit and contemporary styles expressed through de-constructive design; traditional knit styles are combined with contemporary styles through color, material, and knitting structure mixtures, such as mixing Northern European Aran, Fair Isle, Nordic, and Ropy knit. Second, the Sakai knit design combines male and female styles by mixing materials and details. A deconstructed knit cardigan was matched with androcentric pin-striped shirts worn over layered shirring skirts embellished with chiffon and lace. Third, everyday street fashion style is blended with a formal, elegant fashion style. For example, the front view has a typical everyday appearance, whereas the back view contains florid and decorated details. The style is expressed as a 360-degrees appellation, with one thing in the front and another in the back. Sacai’s distinctive expressional characteristics include a mixed and de-constructive style characterized by unexpected design.

The purpose of this study is to develop a knitwear design with the potential for practical use through a combination of science and design by examining the concept and formative characteristics of fractal geometry and applying them to the development of 3D virtual clothing knitwear design. This study produced five main conclusions. First, the sub-concepts of “Repeatability,” “Scale variability,” and “complexity,” which are based on self-similarity, appear together with simple regularity in the fractal formative characteristics shown in fashion design. Second, fashion fields apply fractal geometry in three-dimensional surface textures and optical textile patterns as a method of expression. Third, it was confirmed that various expressions can be created with fractal patterns by using the SDS-ONE APEX 3-4 design system; moreover, fractal patterns are a suitable design source for the development of Jacquard knitwear patterns. Fourth, in the development of knitted jacquard fractal patterns, by arranging the patterns in perspective, the effect of emphasizing or reducing the human body by optical illusion was shown. Fifth, a knit Jacquard structure with a pattern that exhibits fractal modeling characteristics and applying it to a 3D virtual clothing sample design reduces the time required for sample production while expanding the knit design’s expression area and reducing costs. Thus, the clothing sample confirmed the effectiveness of practical knitwear design development.

‘스마트시티‘(Smart Cities)라는 개념은 인간을 포함한 생명체(living beings)와 비생명체 (non-living beings)를 넘어서 테크놀로지 자체를 도시 설계의 중심에 놓는다. 다소 과격하게 표현하자면, 1세대 스마트시티는 인간을 인적자원으로 여기고, 비인간을 도시계획에서 배제하며, 인간도 어떤 자격 또는 능력을 가진 특정 집단으로 제한한다. 특히 자연을 포함한 비인간 생명체 그리고 소수자들은 테크놀로지 진보라는 이름하에 희생을 강요받는데, 이는 스마트시티 자체가 이들을 통제하고 돌볼 수 있다는 믿음에 기반하고 있다는 것이다. 본 논문은 모든 생명체와 비생명체가 스마트시티의 동등한 구성원이라고 전제하고, 다음 세대의 스마트시티 개발은 어떠한 모습이어야 하는지를 묻는다. 먼저 인간중심주의의 스마트시티 개념과 휴먼스마트시티(Human smart cities) 개념을 바르셀로나, 두바이, 싱가포르 스마트시티 계획을 비판적으로 검토한다. 이들의 인간이해를 비판하면서, 포스트휴머니즘의 세 가지 영역 – 비이원론(non-dualism), 인간-이상-것들(more-than-humans), 생태적 공동체(ecological community)를 정당성을 확보하고, 인간중심주의 문제점을 제기한다. 이 과정에서는 새로운 세 가지 가치, 포용성(inclusion), 대리성(agency), 그리고 스마트성 (smartness)을 확인하였고, 이것들이 포스트휴머니스트 각 영역에 적용하여, ’포스트휴머니스트 스마트시티 평가표‘를 제시한다. 이 평가표를 기반으로 기존의 스마트시티 평가모델을 평가하고, 이들의 반-인본주의(anti-humanism)과 반-비인본주의(anti-non-humanism) 측면을 논증하였다. 마지막으로, 적어도 생명-비생명체을 배제하지 않고, 인간중심주의에서 자유로운 스마트시티 설계를 위한 ’포스트휴머니스트 스마트시티 평가표‘의 유의미성을 주장한다.

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics and symbolism of peony, the traditional noble flower, create knit fashion designer applying the aesthetic beauty of flower, and suggest the various possibility of developing knit fashion design. As for the study method, the study conducted review on literature and previous studies to investigate on history, characteristics, symbolism of peony, and examined various expressive technique through previous studies about fashion design using flower images. To express characteristics of peony in three dimensions, the study investigated and reflected on crochet expressive technique to design 4 women’s knitwear. The results are as below. First, as shape of peony is big, voluminous, fancy and noble, it symbolizes wealth and beauty. Including red which is the generally known color of peony, there are yellow, white, pink, purple, green, blue, black, gray, white purple, white color. This study reflected characteristics and symbolism of peony and created knit fashion design applying abundant aesthetic characteristics of flower. Second, crochet method is advantageous as it is operable with thread and hooked crochet hook without time and space restriction, it can create unique fashion design. Crochet knitting on hand knit can diversity changes to express relief textures, and as there is no limit in size, it can be applied to small props to big pieces. This study suggested the various possibility of knit fashion design development and various expressive possibility on modern fashion design.

The purpose of this study is to classify and analyze the deconstruction phenomena expressed in contemporary knit fashion design, and to analyze the inner meaning of deconstruction based on certain characteristics. As a method of study, literature data for theoretical backgrounds, prior studies, and internet data were analyzed. The scope of this study was restricted to knitwear published in the world’s four major collections (Milan, Paris, New York and London) from 2014 F/W to 2018 S/S. Based on prior studies, four concepts of deconstruction were derived: “Différeance”, “Intertextuality”, “Intermeaning of Meaning”, “Dis․De Phenomenon”. The results of the study were as follows: first, “Différeance” refers to a transcendence of time and space. These expressions are discursive, unrealistic, and convey freedom through intent that deviates from rules and norms. Second, “Intertextuality” indicates a mixture of different texts, such as styles, materials, and items. These expressions deliver novelty with amusement, and can be entertaining depending on audience expectations. Third, “Intermeaning of Meaning” is accidental category - depending on how the wearer wears the clothing. -; accordingly, free and spontaneous creativity is an emerging trend in fashion. Fourth, the clothing was expressed in deformed and distorted form by the construction and destruction of the structure, a technique we describe as the “Dis․De Phenomenon”. In this concept, the sense of free design of young emotion appears along with the sense of purity and shock due to intentional inconsistency.

The number of hand knitters has increased dramatically in the past few years. Recently, various hand knitted items have been seen in many fashion collections. The main purpose of this study is to analyze the design features of hand knitted items in the collections from Daniela Gregis. This brand was selected because it featured knitted items in its collections every season. An empirical analysis about form, material, color and knitting technique was done for hand knitted items from Daniela Gregis’ collections from 2012 S/S to 2018 S/S. The results can be summarized as follows: In terms of form, garments such as pullovers, cardigans, and shawls used basic components, and accessories such as bags, mufflers, hats, and decorative pieces had various shapes. In the material, there were many items that expressed unique textures by combining various materials such as a mix of fabric and yarn. With regards to color, orange, yellow, and red were mainly used as accent colors, and combinations of two or more colors were prominent in the items. In terms of knitting technique, the methods used in the collections were mostly simple and basic. Among various techniques, plain knitting, garter knitting, and single crochet methods were mainly used. While this study is limited to the characteristics of hand knitted items from a single brand, therefore cannot be generalized for all knit fashion, the study provides basic data that could facilitate the revitalization of the hand knitting industry and expand the application range of hand knitting techniques.

본 연구에서는 우리나라 식품공전에서 불검출 물질로 관리하고 있는 니트로빈(nitrovin)에 대해 고감도 정량·정성 분석이 가능한 LC-MS/MS를 적용하여 적합한 분석법을 제시하고자 하였다. 수산물 시료는 아세토니트릴/물로 추 출하고 아세토니트릴 포화 헥산으로 지방을 제거하여 고상추출 카트리지를 적용하여 정제하였다. 분석물질은 전기분무이온화방법의 positive mode에서 이온화하여 MRM 조건을 확립하여 분석하였다. 개선된 시험법은 CODEX CAC/GL-71 가이드라인에 따라서 정확성, 정밀성, 직선성, 정량한계에 대한 검증을 통하여 유효성을 확인하였다. 본 실험에서의 정량한계는 0.001 mg/kg 수준이며, 정량한계를 포함하는 표준시료에서 얻어진 검량선의 상관계수(r2)는 0.985 이상으로 시험법의 직선성이 유효함을 판단할 수 있었다. 또한, 수산물(넙치, 장어 및 새우) 시료에 대한 니트 로빈의 평균 회수율과 변동 계수는 72.1~122%, 2.9~16.9% 로 확인되어 정확성 및 정밀성이 CODEX가이드라인에 부합하였다. 따라서, 개선된 니트로빈 정량분석법은 수산물 중 니트로빈을 분석하는데 적합하며, 니트로빈에 대한 지속적인 잔류실태조사에 활용되어 수산물 중 니트로빈의 안전관리에 기여할 것으로 판단된다.

The purpose of this study is to create knit ruffles that represent the aesthetic and artistic values of painted works of art that rhythmically express flower petals and add an artistic impression on the knit ruffle designs. This study is based on the artistic life of Georgia O’Keeffe and changes in her artistic background, and the world of paintings. The relevant data was gathered from domestic and foreign references, academic journals, and the internet. The characteristics of Georgia O’Keeffe paintings were examined. Her paintings typically include a series of various motifs, symmetry, balance, and harmony of detailed realistic expressions and abstract elements, repetition, and the principles of contrast and emphasis in shaping. The decoration techniques used on fabrics were applied using the knitting machine which controls the tension to develop a variety of textures, apart from the previous standardized knit textures, through various knitting techniques. A gradation effect was then applied by piece-dyeing the knitted materials in various colors to express asimilarity to the original colors in O’Keeffe’s works with delicate color expressions. After the piece-dyeing, the decorative knitted materials were trimmed on a model to re-create the natural curves of flower petals. This study aims to converge works of art with fashion designs to develop various creative knitted fashion and to impart an artistic sense in the fashion design industry.

The purpose of this study was to investigate emotional images and preference of knitwear by tone on tone combination. The subjects were 357 university students in Daejeon and Chungnam province, and the measuring instruments were 6 stimuli manipulated by color and tone combination type of background and pattern in the tone and tone combination, and self-administrated questionnaires consisted of emotional images items, preference items, and subjects' demographics attributions. The data were analyzed by Cronbach's α, factor analysis, t-test, MANOVA and Duncan's multiple range test, using SPSS program. The results were as follows. First, four factors (attractiveness, conspicuity, mildness, and activity) are emerged on emotional images of knitwear. Second, color had main effects on emotional images and preference. Gray color was perceived as most attractive image and more preferred than others. Third, tone combination type had some effects on emotional images. Vivid tone background/light tone pattern was perceived more attractive image but less conspicuous and mild than light tone background/vivid tone pattern. Forth, subjects' gender had an effects on conspicuous image. Male was perceived more conspicuous image on knitwear stimuli than female. Fifth, color and subjects' gender had interaction effects on attractiveness image and preference. Male perceived that blue is more attractive and preferred than female.

This study analyzed the design elements and fashion images of women's knitwear in collections of Paris, Milan, London and New York between 2003 and 2008, and examined knitwear trends in an effort to verify whether knitwear trends are repeated in certain cycles, whether they show complicated patterns in cycles and yet occur in quasi cycles, or whether they occur non-periodically in complicated forms of chaotic cycles. Trend cycle analysis results are deemed to identify the time series attribute of knit fashions. It also sought to categorize the attribute of various factors influencing knitwear trends with a view to determining relevancy between design elements, and to present the direction of predicting knitwear fashion trends and the progression of short-term knitwear trends. This study reached the following conclusion. According to design elements or fashion images, knitwear fashion trends occur in cycles, quasi cycles, non-periodical cycles. These cyclic characteristics can be used as scientific data for planning knitwear products. The study confirmed close relevancy between fashion images and fashion elements. It identified close relevancy between designs with similar fashion elements and images through coordinates by year and season, and it is possible to make short-term prediction of trend direction through the flow of coordinates. Time series data were insufficient, thereby making it difficult to perfectly verify chaos indices and giving limitations to this study. A study with more time series data will produce a more effective method of predicting and using knitwear fashion trends.

For this study, 18 kinds of cut and sew or seamless knitted test garment were made. Samples differed from each other by skirt angles(90°, 180°), gauges(7G, 12G, 15G), and grain directions(bias direction, wale direction, and radial direction). After measuring the mechanical properties of various gauges on the seamless knitting machine, I compared shape of the knitted flare skirt through subjective evaluation on appearances. The data analysis methods used in this study were descriptive statistics, one-way ANOVA, Duncan-test, correlation analysis, and regression analysis. The subjective evaluation on appearances of knitted flare skirts showed the following: In case of 90° skirt, the seamless skirt showed a much higher score in every gauge expect that of the cut and sew 12G, and silhouette of 15G wale direction. In case of the 180° skirt, the seamless type showed a much higher score in every item over the cut and sew expect the silhouette part of 7G wale direction.

This study examines the appearance management attitude factor of male college students and groups them according to their characteristics. Then this research analyzes their interest in knitwear, buying behavior, and characteristics to see what kind of differences exist. The results of the research are as follows: First, after conducting a factor analysis to identify the appearance management attitude of male college students, 3 factors emerged(sought personality, pursued trends, and appearance interest). Second, as a result grouping the students according to their attitude. It is created 3 groups(fashionista group, personality group, and appearance interest group). Third, for the interest in knitwear, the fashionista group had the highest interest in knitwear, with a preferred brand when purchasing. Fourth, the fashionista group that values personality and latest trends was more likely to purchase knitwear than the personality group or the appearance interest group. Finally, the majority preferred solid colors. Over 50% of the students preferred knits without any patterns. Also, the most preferred 100% cotton. As this survey was only surveyed in Seoul and Gyounggi areas. The next research requires to be surveyed in a more comprehensive area. Additionally, male college students must more effectively be segmented and surveyed to get accurate results.

The purpose of this study was to investigate the sensation seeking tendency and knitwear purchase behaviors of high school girls. The data were obtained from 475 high school girls at 6 high schools located in Daejeon. The method of study is a survey consisted of sensation seeking tendency items, knitwear purchase behavior items and demographic attribution. Data were analyzed by frequency, variance, crosstabs, and correlation analysis using SPSS WIN 17.0 program. The results of study are as follows. First, high school girls generally liked knitwears by reason of comfort and activity. Most girls purchased the knitwears to wear ordinary casual wear(81.5%). They usually thought sweater and cardigan to be representative of knitwears. Also, they mostly purchased the knitwears of simple and active design, achromatic color, 100% cotton, and solid or simple stripe pattern. The design and price were considered as important evaluation criteria in knitwear purchase. The information sources used by them were store display, friends, and internet. Second, the knitwear purchase behaviors of high school girls showed the difference between groups with high- and low-sensation seeking tendency. The most important factor of knitwear purchase was an unique and characteristic design in high group and a simple and active design in low group. In conclusion, high school girls liked knitwears and had different knitwear purchase behaviors according to the sensation seeking tendency.

The objective of this study is to develop naturalistic knit designs inspired by Yann Arthus-Bertrand’s works. For this purpose, we examined the present style of naturalism and history of naturalism though literature research, and then developed designs. The results are as follows: First, as scientific realism originated from a philosophical concept was adopted in literature and other genres, its meanings have been altered and comprehensively expanded according to the genres of which the term is being used. Naturalism of the modern times carries strong message of ecology and environmental protection. Second, the modern naturalism in fashion is manifested in expressing the image of nature and plasticity, instead of a mere use of the natural materials. As the aspects of ecology become more significant, elements of retro, recycle, or grunge are additionally integrated in fashion. Third, Naturalism expressed in knitwear is similar with that of other clothing in terms of color and textile, however, silhouette in knitwear is unique in its general naturalness and flowing effects. Embroidery, knitting of Jacquard and Intarsia, or crochet is used to express forms of objects from nature. Visual effects regardless of the contents of yarn, and pattern effects after knitting by using yarn, have influences on the material. Forth, the eight knit designs in expressing naturalism presented in this study took a motif from the works of Yann Arthus-Bertrand. They were created by rendering rhythm of the landscape with emphasis on brown color. Contour and surface touch were expressed through yarn and the structure of knit.