The aim of this study was to analyze the design characteristics of Chinese fashion designer Feng Chen Wang and interpret their implicit meaning from a neo-deconstruction perspective. A review of domestic and foreign literature, outlined the development of deconstruction and neo-deconstruction, with neo-deconstruction’s aesthetic features termed ‘traditional fusion’, ‘positive playfulness’, ‘open communication’, and ‘multiple inclusiveness’. These features informed an analysis of Feng Chen Wang’s fashion design. Four key findings emerged. First, ‘traditional fusion’ combines traditional Chinese colors, items, handicrafts, and patterns with modern design to break down boundaries between past and modern, tradition and fashion. Second, ‘positive playfulness’ promotes creativity and fun, using bright colors, exaggerated accessories, and playing withthe composition of traditional clothes to create a positive atmosphere. Third, ‘open communication’ emphasizes design that combines practicality and creativity in response to consumer needs, incorporating the thoughts arising from individual experiences and interest in social phenomena. Fourth, ‘multiple inclusiveness’ breaks down boundaries of sexuality, hierarchy, and body shape, embracing various ideas of beauty and respecting uniqueness through design that are seen as available to all. Using a neo-deconstruction perspective, Feng Chen Wang provides novel product planning ideas for Chinese fashion brands and reflects the values and meaning of modern design pursued by contemporary Chinese designers.
This study aims to merge Picasso’s expressive elements and deconstructive fashion’s formative traits, proposing an upcycle fashion design that fuses artistic and philosophical aspects. The analysis of Picasso’s Cubism identified qualities like liberating revolution, fluidity of vision, geometric reducibility, complex symbolism, and creative imitation. The analysis of Derrida’s deconstructionism revealed expressive traits: uncertainty, intertextuality, différance, and dis-de phenomenon. An upscale fashion design was developed based on six Picasso works featuring women. The design was created using the fashion design software CLO 3D and integrated clothing waste and scrap fabrics as materials.The results are as follows. First, upcycle fashion was viewed from a new perspective based on Picasso and Derrida’s values. This perspective suggested creating better ethical values by upholding environmental protection in novel ways that overcome limitations rather than destroy existing values indiscriminately. Second, upcycle fashion design methodologies were derived from various perspectives utilizing formative features of Picasso’s works and specific expressive features of deconstructed fashion. Third, the direction of mitigating waste and pollution from clothing production and transportation was revealed by making clothes in a virtual space using the CLO 3D program. This study contributed to obtaining various methods for developing upcycle fashion designs using own methods of Picasso and Derrida to diversify the approaches of upcycling, which is relatively stagnant in disassembling.
This study explores the possibility of creating new experimental hanbok designs by accommodating the latest world fashion trends and the changing needs of consumers, in order to attempt to overcome the limitations of traditional Korean fashion design. To do so, We analyze works by contemporary Korean fashion designers to investigate current developments in Korean fashion design and to identify areas of improvement within hanbok design. The results show that most contemporary hanbok designs repeat stereotypes of traditional hanbok with minor modifications. So there arises a need to create new hanbok designs that are clearly distinct from traditional hanbok but also maintain its core features. To develop such designs, I apply the techniques of deconstruction fashion, which allow making experiments with form, composition, and materials use to realize new aesthetics. The use of CLO 3D fashion design software also proves to be very efficient for developing experimental designs. The study results make meaningful contributions to the development of virtual clothing and 3D fashion for hanbok, particularly as metaBUS, a cloud-based research synthesis platform, is rapidly gaining ground, and reality and virtual reality are increasingly mixed in everyday life. This attempt at 3D design of hanbok is expected to trigger more creative experimentation in hanbok design.
예이츠는 왜 아직도 많은 독자들과 학자들에게 흥미로울까? 왜 사람들 은 예이츠와 이우환과 사이 톰브리에 매료될까? 예이츠는 모던니스트 시기의 시인인 데도, 이우환과 사이 톰브리는 포스트모더니스 시기의 예술가들인데도? 이 논문은 이 흥미와 매혹의 원천이 무엇인지 알고자한다. 또 이 논문은 데리다를 보면서 그의 디콘 스트럭션-그가 텍스트를 어떻게 생각하고 읽는 지-이 나를 어떻게 작품들(이를테면 이 작품들은, 작가들은 디콘스트럭숀 미학을 알지 못했겠지만, 포스트모던 예술가들 사이 톰블리와 이우환이 만들었고 예이츠의 작품 일부는 디콘스트럭션의 미학으로 만들어 진 작품들이기 때문에)을 잘 읽을 수 있을까를 도울 것으로 생각한다. 또한 이 논문은 젊은 학자들에게 지나치게 나쁜 영향을 미치는 몇몇 저명학자들의 디콘스트럭션의 잘 못된 읽기와 실천을 지적하고자 한다. 이것은 가능하면 빨리 수정되어야 할 방향이다.
This study aims to develop a hanbok design method in response to recent changes in consumption trends that emphasize new aesthetic and cultural values, which contrast with the existing cultural order and repetitive normative styles in fashion designing. With this in mind, our study explores the main features of deconstruction fashion design as a theoretical guide for developing a methodology for deconstruction hanbok design, on the basis of which new, experimental and creative hanbok design works can be produced. To do this, we first investigate current trends in hanbok design and changing concepts of Korean fashion design through literature review of previous studies. Secondly, we explore deconstructionism and analyze its features to lay down the foundation for a post-modern approach in hanbok design. As the result of analysis, the main features of deconstruction fashion design are summarized as the following: 1) non-finishing, 2) decomposing and recomposing, 3) recycling, 4) transparent, 5) grunge, 6) flattening, and 7) exaggeration. Based on the identified core features of deconstruction fashion design, we develop a creative method of hanbok design in the context of modern Korean fashion design. Finally, we show five design outputs via a 3D digital fashion design process using the CLO3D software program.
This study is aimed at applying the philosophical concept of “différance” to contemporary men’s fashion design, which could effectively show the shift in thinking. For the study method, the author examined the theoretical background of deconstruction and prepared the standard of analysis by organizing the concept of “différance,” which exists at the center of philosophy. This study selected the three most popular brands: Maison Margiela, Comme des Garcons, and Yohji Yamamoto. The results are as follows. First, there is expression of perpetual reservation emphasizing time. This includes texture, patchworks, hems with ladder, and exposure of seam that expresses the trace of time flow and delayed delivery of immediate meaning, and the expression creates delay between major and minor and leads to consistent role exchange. Second, the trace of blank that emphasizes the space gives a visual sense of weight on spares with the intentionally granted space, as well as the space that is the trace of trace and creates a sense of depth through the direction of empty space. Third, the space created in the process of wearing cloth is visualized, the structure of clothing is deconstructed, and the movement from the process recomposes the shape of space and expands the definition that enables expansion of time and space. Fourth, the undetermined relationship expresses the border of time and space visually and deconstructs time and space. The approaches are mostly constructive, demonstrating an avant-garde form of clothes-wearing to show the non-form or imbalance condition.
The purpose of this study is to classify and analyze the deconstruction phenomena expressed in contemporary knit fashion design, and to analyze the inner meaning of deconstruction based on certain characteristics. As a method of study, literature data for theoretical backgrounds, prior studies, and internet data were analyzed. The scope of this study was restricted to knitwear published in the world’s four major collections (Milan, Paris, New York and London) from 2014 F/W to 2018 S/S. Based on prior studies, four concepts of deconstruction were derived: “Différeance”, “Intertextuality”, “Intermeaning of Meaning”, “Dis․De Phenomenon”. The results of the study were as follows: first, “Différeance” refers to a transcendence of time and space. These expressions are discursive, unrealistic, and convey freedom through intent that deviates from rules and norms. Second, “Intertextuality” indicates a mixture of different texts, such as styles, materials, and items. These expressions deliver novelty with amusement, and can be entertaining depending on audience expectations. Third, “Intermeaning of Meaning” is accidental category - depending on how the wearer wears the clothing. -; accordingly, free and spontaneous creativity is an emerging trend in fashion. Fourth, the clothing was expressed in deformed and distorted form by the construction and destruction of the structure, a technique we describe as the “Dis․De Phenomenon”. In this concept, the sense of free design of young emotion appears along with the sense of purity and shock due to intentional inconsistency.
Since 1960, the change of architectural trend was dominated by two factors ; the one, the introduction of theory of language (including semantic, syntactic, pragmatic, linguistic, semiotic, structuralism, post-structurism) in design concept, the other, the adaption of high technology in building construction. In particular, the theory of language played an important role in the emergence of new tendency, which could be the alternative of modern architecture. Post-modernism and Typology in the 1960-70s, Deconstructivism in the 1980s and 'Folding' architecture in the 1990s, have continually borrowed a theoretical base from the thee of language. Placing the focus on the relation of contemporary architecture and theory of language with the interdisciplinary view, this study comes to the conclusion that the diverse architectural tendencies since 1960 depend on the 'champ d'enonce', which Michel Foucault, French philosopher, defined in his <Archeology du savoir>. The writings of many architects, like Robert Venturi, Micheal Graves, Aldo Rossi, Peter Eisenman, Rem Koolhaas, Bernard Tschumi, Gerg Lynn demonstrate our conclusion. This is an important finding which make possible consistent understanding about contemporary architecture.
본 연구는 신해체주의 관점에서 현대 패션에 나타나는 데님 디자인을 이해하고, 미래 패션디자인에 대한 방향성 모색을 위한 것이다. 본 연구의 목적은, 첫째, 신해체주의 관점에서 데님을 활용한 디자인의 용어와 개념 정의를 통해 본 연구의 방법론을 모색한다. 둘째, 신해체주의 디자인 관점을 긍정적 디자인, 다양성 추구, 새로운 변형으로 보고 이에 따른 디자인을 유형화 한다. 셋째, 신해체주의 관점에서 3D 프린팅과 디지털 프린팅을 적용한 데님 디자인 개발을 제안한다. 이에 따른 본 연구의 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 신해체주의 관점에서 현대 패션에 나타나는 데님 디자인의 변화에 대한 해석과 이해는 방법론으로 타당한 것으로 나타났다. 둘째, 신해체주의 디자인 관점에서 데님 디자인은 긍정적 디자인, 다양성 추구, 새로운 변형으로 그 디자인을 유형화 할 수 있었다. 셋째, 신해체주의 디자인 관점에서 3D 프린팅과 디지털 프린팅을 적용한 데님 디자인 2작품을 결과로서 도출하였다.