This study investigated the Sachanbalgi, which record the royal feasts given by the royal family of the Joseon Dynasty of Korea. These records are contained within the Gungjung Balgi, which recorded the types and quantity of items used in royal court ceremonies. The Eumsikbalgi is the general name for the records of food found within this document. Using these Eumsikbalgi, and in particular the Sachanbalgi, this study investigated the food eaten and bestowed by the Joseon royal family. The Sachanbalgi describes four categories or occasions of feasts: royal birthdays, childbirth, royal weddings, and funerals. These records allow us to reconstruct who the attendees were and what the table settings and food were for instances not directly indicated in oral records, books, or other documents. The food at these Sachan (feasts) was diverse, being related to the specific event, and its contents varied based on the position of the person who was receiving the food. Usually, Bab (rice) was not found at a Sachanbalgi, and only on two occasions were meals with Bab observed. Specifically, it was served with Gwaktang (seaweed soup) at a childbirth feast. There were seven kinds of soups and stews that appeared in the Sachanbalgi: Gwaktang, Yeonpo (octopus soup), Japtang (mixed food stew), Chogyetang (chilled chicken soup), Sinseonro (royal hot pot), and Yukjang (beef and soybean paste). Nureumjeok (grilled brochette) and Saengchijeok (pheasant), and Ganjeonyueo (pan-fried cow liver fillet) and Saengseonjeonyueo (pan-fried fish fillet) were eaten. Yangjeonyueo, Haejeon, Tigakjeon (pan-fried kelp) and other dishes, known and unknown, were also recorded. Boiled meat slices appeared at high frequency (40 times) in the records; likewise, 22 kinds of rice cake and traditional sweets were frequently served at feasts. Five kinds of non-alcoholic beverages were provided. Seasonal fruits and nuts, such as fresh pear or fresh chestnut, are thought to have been served following the event. In addition, a variety of dishes including salted dry fish, boiled dish, kimchi, fruit preserved in honey, seasoned vegetables, mustard seeds, fish, porridge, fillet, steamed dishes, stir-fried dishes, vegetable wraps, fruit preserved in sugar, and jellied foods were given to guests, and noodles appear 16 times in the records. Courtiers were given Banhap, Tanghap, Myeonhap, wooden bowls, or lunchboxes. The types of food provided at royal events tracked the season. In addition, considering that for feasts food of the royal household was set out for receptions of guests, cooking instructions for the food in the lunchbox-type feasts followed the cooking instructions used in the royal kitchen at the given time. Previous studies on royal cuisine have dealt mostly with the Jineosang presented to the king, but in the Sachanbalgi, the food given by the royal family to its relatives, retainers, and attendants is recorded. The study of this document is important because it extends the knowledge regarding the food of the royal families of the Joseon Dynasty. The analysis of Sachanbalgi and the results of empirical research conducted to reconstruct the precise nature of that food will improve modern knowledge of royal cuisine.
본 논문은 19세기라는 역사적 격변기에 활동했던 문인인 橘山李裕元(1814~ 1888)의 『사찬』과『사영』에 관해 살펴보았다. 기존 이유원에 대한 논의는 『林下筆記』 소재 樂府와 같은 것들에만 집중되어, 그의 역사적 인식에 관해서는 거의 논의가 없었다. 그렇기에 아직까지도 이유원의 다른 저작인『嘉梧藁略』이나 『橘山文稿』와 같은 다른 작품에 관한 연구는 미진 한 실정이다. 본고에서 언급한 『사찬』과『사영』은 귤산의 저작인 『가오고략』에 들어 있는 작품이다. 이는 귤산의 문집에서 많은 양을 차지하고 있지는 않지만, 그의 역사관 을 연구하는 데에 간과해서는 안 될 중요한 자료라고 생각한다. 귤산은 『사찬』에서 15개국에 대해서 시를 쓰고 있고, 『사영』에서는 자신이 다 쓰지 못했던 『사찬』의 餘史를 42명의 인물들을 통해서 보완하여 더욱 자세히 기록 하고 있다. 이는 중국의 역사적 작품들을 통해 그가 부국강병을 위해 조선의 현실 을 사실적으로 인식하고 쓴 것이다. 이러한 인식은 당대의 다른 문인들과 비교를 해보거나, 전후 시기 문인들과 비교해 볼 때 독특한 성격을 가진다고 할 수 있다. 비록 이 『사찬』과『사영』만을 가지고 귤산의 역사관을 전체적으로 파악하기에는 부족한 면이 많겠지만, 본고를 통해 그가 지니고 있던 역사관의 일부나마 살펴 볼 수 있고, 이것이 곧 귤산 뿐 아니라 당대 문인들의 역사관을 이해하고 파악하 는 중요한 단초가 될 것이라 생각된다.