봉황문 인문보는 조선시대 왕실에서 가례와 같은 중요한 행 사에 사용하기 위해 제작된 보자기로 창덕궁유물로 지정되어 국립고궁박물관에 14점이 소장되어 있다. 인문보引紋袱의 일종 인 봉황문 인문보는 보자기 중앙에 봉황문양이 그려져 있는 것 을 말한다. 인문보는 채색 물감을 이용하여 보자기 위에 다양 한 문양을 화려하게 그린 보자기이다. 봉황문 인문보 앞면에는 동물문양, 식물문양, 문자문양, 자연 현상문양, 보배문양이 복합적인 형태로 그려져 있다. 시문된 문 양에 담긴 복합적인 의미를 분석해본 결과 왕조의 연속성, 자 손 번창, 부귀영화, 무병장수 등을 담아 조선 왕실이 추구하는 이상향을 표출하였음을 알 수 있었다. 봉황문 인문에 관련된 고 문헌을 살펴본 결과 왕실에서 사용 하는 인문보의 제작은 왕의 허가가 있어야 하는 엄격한 절차에 의해 진행되었다. 아쉬운 점은 왕실의 주요한 행사를 기록한 고 문헌에는 수백 장의 인문보가 제작되었다는 기록은 있으나 제작과정에 관련된 기록은 남아 있지 않다. 봉황문 인문보와 관련된 선행연구를 살펴보면 대부분 궁중 보자기를 연구한 학술논문이나 학위논문 속에 일부분으로 다뤄 지고 있다. 본 논문은 이들 선행연구와 궁중 복식 연구, 궁중 문양 등을 연구한 논문과 단행본, 국립고궁박물관에서 제공한 봉황문 인문보의 관련 자료와 수장고에서 실물 친견 등을 참고 하여 분석하였다. 봉황문 인문보에 시문된 문양 분석은 발생 배경과 함께 각 문양에 담긴 의미를 분석하였고 색채 분석은 동양 전통 오방색 과 음양오행 원리에 따른 색채의 상징성을 토대로 분석하였다. 표현 기법 연구는 조선시대의 전통 채색 기법을 바탕으로 분석 하였다. 이를 통해 봉황문 인문보에 담긴 수준 높은 조선시대 의 예술적 가치를 증명하였다. 봉황문 인문보의 문양과 색채 및 표현 기법을 분석한 본 논 문이 현대 회화와 공예, 디자인, 건축 등의 다양한 예술 분야에 서 새롭게 재해석되어 활용하기를 기대한다.

The objective of this study was to explore the symbolism associated with phoenix patterns in China and the temporal aesthetic characteristics of these patterns found in Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes. The study involved collecting examples of clothing designs featuring phoenix patterns from China Fashion Week and the Vogue website, spanning from spring and summer of 2016 to fall and winter of 2022. After collecting and organizing these examples, representative cases were selected for analysis. The objective was to identify effective techniques for incorporating phoenix patterns within the context of Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes and provided insights for future clothing design and textile pattern design research. Phoenix patterns boasted a lengthy history and were laden with symbolic meaning. Early renditions of phoenix patterns found at Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang were relatively simplistic in design, mainly employing elements like rhythm, coordination, balance and symmetry to convey a sense of nature and gravity. Over time, these patterns evolved under the influence of the prevailing cultural backdrop, employing repeated emphasis to portray notions of abundance and tenacity. Furthermore, regarding the use of phoenix patterns in clothing, there were four prevalent expression techniques: embroidery, beading, printing, and knitting. Traditional techniques like embroidery and beadwork often prioritized aesthetic features like coordination, emphasis, and symmetry, thereby showcasing the opulent characteristics of phoenix patterns. On the other hand, printing and knitting techniques used a single phoenix pattern or a modified version to simplify designs by emphasizing or repeating aesthetic characteristics while adhering to a modern artistic approach.

The purpose of this study is to apply the traditional Chinese fretwork on the ‘Faux Chenille’ textile work method in a way of enhancing the decorative features of patterns and developing the fashion design. As for the method, it works on the historic background and advancement of the fretwork and it refers to the bibliographies pertinent to the traditional Chinese geometric pattern. The result are as follows. First, pure cotton and 100% rayon are mixed to make it feasible to produce the texture for the material to be tender and enhanced, and in the process of washing and drying the Faux Chenille textile. The Faux Chenille textile is an important material that is required to select materials with great absorption capability as the most effective material to re-visualize the lines and patterns by sustaining the diagonal lines. Second, the fretwork is designed to process the basic formation for 90° angle with the sense of unlimited extensive line and changes with straight line. It has been confirmed that, if the angle that controls the Faux Chenille textile and the tailoring interval are well aligned, the expression of traditional geometric pattern would be effective and it may be expressed in contemporary style. Third, through the fashion design application by utilizing the Faux Chenille textile of the fretwork, it is confirmed that the contemporary application of the traditional culture could be expressed uniquely and creatively while it is affirmed that the western technique and Asian culture can be blended in harmony.

신라 금관(특히 경주 출토 5점)은 신라 최고위층이 사용한 최고 품격의 모자이다. 이들은 원형 관테의 위로 세운 장식인 입식(立飾)과 아래로 드리운 장식인 수식(垂飾)이 중심이 되는 형태이고 그 표면에는 다수의 곡옥(曲玉)과 영락(瓔珞)을 매달 고 점선문･점열문･원문･삼각문･덩굴문 등의 문양들을 점으로 표현하였다. 이 중에서 입식은 나무 모양을 도안한 세 산자 모 양<山字形. 또는 출자 모양出字形>과 두 사슴뿔 모양이다. , 필자는 이 논문에서 신라 금관의 형태(나무･사슴뿔･연꽃･곡 옥･영락･수식)과 문양(삼각문･덩굴문･원문) 모두가 기(氣･기운･ 기력)와 생장(生長) 표현이라는 주장을 거듭 주장, 강조하였다. 금관의 기와 생장 표현은 생동감･생명력･힘･성장･발전 나아가 신이와 화생(化生)까지도 아우른다. 신라 금관의 기와 생장 표현을 분석하면 첫째 입식(나무와 사슴뿔) 등의 형태를 기와 생장의 대표 주자인 연꽃 모양으로 변형한 것, 둘째 금관 표면에 우리 겨레 역사문화강역 안 신석 기･청동기시대부터 기와 생장을 대표하는 삼각문･덩굴문･원문 을 표현한 것 셋째 기와 생장 표현 모두를 연꽃으로 인식하고 상호 동격･교호(交互)･호환 관계로 표현한 점이다. 신라 금관의 대표적인 모습은 ‘산(山’)자 모양 입식이다. 이는 위로 자라는 나무의 도안에 기와 생장 표현 등을 결합한 도안 인데 이를 분석하면 첫째 기와 생장이 중앙에서 외곽으로 전개 되는 모습 중 네 방향 표현(줄기와 가지이기에 네 방향이 됨), 둘째 중앙에서 외곽으로 확산되면서 동시에 아래보다 위쪽으로 향하는 생장하는 표현(금관의 좌우 가지가 갑자기 90도(度) 꺾 여 위로 솟구친 이유) 셋째 기와 생장 표현의 초기 모습인 세 갈래 표현(중앙과 그 좌측과 우측을 함께 보여 주는 첫 모양. 좌우 균형과 안정, 간결･함축을 담고, 삼재三才사상과도 관련 된다. 금관의 형태와 문양 특히 기(기운)와 생장을 동반한 표현들 은 금관 외에도 당시 우리 겨레의 역사문화유산에 보편적으로 존재하였다. 이웃한 원(原) 중국 역사문화강역에서는 존재하지 않았던 우리 겨레의 세계적･독보적･독창적 역사문화유산인 신 라 금관･금동관의 형태와 문양 특히 기(기운)와 생장을 동반한 표현은 고대 일본에도 전파되고 영향을 끼쳤다. 주제어: 금관, 기(氣･기운氣運), 생장(生長), 연꽃, 입식(立飾), 수식(垂飾)

A Beoseonbongip is a pouch that holds patterns for making Beoseons. This study aimed to identify the aesthetic and symbolic contents of the embroidery patterns by analyzing the kind, combination types, expression and arrangement types of patterns. In total, 140 Beoseonbongip artifacts, which were mostly made in the Joseon Dynasty, were quantitatively and qualitatively analyzed. The results indicated that about 83% of the total had flower patterns. Various kinds of embroidery patterns used for Beoseonbongips were newly identified. About 73% of the total had different kinds of patterns. Pattern combination types were identified by the kinds of patterns, the number of paired patterns, and the traditional painting styles used. The patterns of Beoseonbongips were expressed schematically more than realistically or abstractly. Beoseonbongips with different patterns on the four triangle tips of the front face and Beoseonbongips with the same/similar patterns on two opposite tips of the front face were observed more than the other types. On the back face, the embroidery patterns were symmetrically arranged, showing various division structures. It was inferred that wishes (e.g., marital harmony, fertility, good health and longevity, happiness, and wealth and fame) were expressed through the symbolic patterns embroidered on the Beoseonbongips. In terms of Korean traditional beauty, the union with nature, the harmony of yin and yang, symmetric balance, and neatness were also emphasized as a esthetic characteristics of Beoseonbongips.

The object of this study is to develop textile designs and fashion products based on the cultural resource of Jeju Bangsatop, which means a stone tower preventing misfortune and driving out evil spirits. The field surveys of 32 Bangsatops located at 17 villages in Jeju were conducted. As a result, unlike stone towers located in other regions, Jeju Bangsatops made with basalt. In addition, wood and stone birds, Dolhareungbang, and other sculptures are built on the tops. Jeju Bangsatops were classified into four types based on the body form of the tops: Conical, truncated conical, trapezoid, and irregular shaped Bangsatops. Jeju Bangsatops located in a area or a village are symmetrically arranged in direction of south and north, left and right, east and west, or face to face. The conical, truncated conical, and irregular shaped Jeju Bangsatops which are designated as folk cultural properties or which have the unique sculptures of stone birds and the statues of Dolhareungbang built on the tops were selected as motifs for textile pattern design. The 4 basic patterns of Jeju Bangstops were designed. The six creative textile designs were developed by the various repeat arrangements of the basic patterns and were printed on oxford cotton fabrics by digital textile printing (DTP) method. The sixteen products of wallets, bags, hats and shoes were actually made with the DTP fabrics, the DTP fabrics which were naturally dyed in gray and blue colors, or the DTP fabrics which were redesigned with textile crayon. Therefore, it is confirmed that Jeju Bangsatop could be very useful as a motif for the development of cultural products focusing on Jeju tourism souvenir market.

This study is to develop cultural products based on 'Jeju Choga', which means the traditional houses in Jeju. For the product development, old literature review, field surveys, and consumer surveys were employed. Through old literatures and field surveys, the unique and visual characteristics of Jeju Choga were confirmed: A thatched roof with lattice pattern, a side wall and fences with porous stones, a 'Jungnang' serving as a gate, and a 'Pungchai' preventing strong sola radiation and 'Ollai' meaning a narrow street in front of the Choga. As a results of consumer survey conducted before the development of products, consumers highly recognized and associated Jeju Choga as Jeju representative image. The six basic patterns of Jeju Choga were drawn and eight textile designs were created through the repeated arrangements of the basic patterns. Using the created textile designs and digital printing method, the eleven new fabrics with the patterns of Jeju Choga were developed. The various kinds of ten bags and tow wallets made with the new fabrics. As a result of consumer evaluation for the twelve products made in this study, the scores of preference and purchase intention were above the average work for the most products of them. In particular, the preference and purchase intention of the square shoulder bag, the big-size shopper bag, and the small-size cross bag were very positively evaluated. Therefore, it is confirmed that Jeju Choga could be very useful as a motif for the development of cultural products focusing on Jeju tourism souvenir market.

The purpose of this study is to identify the figurative characteristics and symbolic meanings of the patterns of royal families in the late Joseon Dynasty based on the theoretical examination as well as the overall characteristics of the colors based on the quantitative analysis of colors. This study focused on the costumes of King Young royal families in the late Joseon Dynasty which is the last costume of Joseon Dynasty and classified 129 relics under preservation for the analysis. This study analyzed the colors using the digital data in the picture brochure as the previous studies did and presented the color palette. Based on this, a variety of textile designs that are developed by using the traditional patterns and colors could be applied to the modern fashion designs. For Patterns used in costumes of King Young royal families, the five pattern categories include animals, plants, letters, and geometric patterns and the final category of other types. The features of color in the costume were v tone of Y color and lt and p tones of Y color. The implication of this study is to develop textile designs which reflects conversion of past and modern cultures and cultural identity by applying the traditional cultural elements through literature review and empirical study and theses developed 8 textile designs could be applied to the various modesrn fashion designs.

본고는 湖西地域의 前期주거지에서 출토된 무문토기 문양을 대상으로 편년한 것이다. 우선 여러문양의 분포권을 살펴본 후 차령산맥 이남과 이북으로 지역권을 설정하였으며, 문양의 세분류를 바탕으로 屬性配列法을 통해 편년하였다. 무문토기 문양 중 이중구연문은 이중구연의 점토대 幅과 융기정도에 따라 세분하였으며, 단사선문, 거치문, X자문 등은 시문위치에 따라 세분하였다. 그리고 공렬문과 돌류문은 시문방향에 따라 구분하였다. 속성배열법에 따른 결과 차령산맥 이남지역은 8단계로, 차령산맥 이북지역은 10단계로 편년되었다. 이 편년결과를 검증하기 위해서 문양변천의 형식학적 해석, 주거지 형식과 공반유물상 그리고 C14 연대와도 부합되는지 검토하였으며, 좋은 결과를 확인할 수 있었다. 차령산맥 이남지역과 이북지역은 지리적으로 인접해 있음에도 불구하고, 교류의 흔적은 적은편이다. 차령산맥 구조곡에 위치한 천안 운전리유적에서 차령산맥 이남지역의 5단계가 이북지역의 4·5단계에 병행한다는 유물상을 확인하였다. 차령산맥 이남지역에서는 상마석계이중구연ㆍ횡대구획문과 같은 외래계문양이 이른시기부터 확인됨으로써 중국동북지방의 선진문물을 끊임없이 수용한 것으로 보인다. 본고에서 편년한 한 단계의 시간폭을 C14연대에 따른다면 대략 30~50년 정도로서 1~2세대의 시간폭에 해당하며, 이를 통하여 동시기의 시간성을 확보하여 취락고고학을 연구할 수 있는 토대를 마련하였다는 점에서 의미를 가질 것이라고 생각한다.

The purpose of this study is to develop design for daily hanbok with Jacquard textile design developed by using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. This study will also develop Jacquard textile design that has elaborate and luxurious patterns and abundant expression of colors using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. Developing daily Hanbok design for woman's casual and formal occasion will contribute to fashion business significantly by popularization of daily hanbok as one of the important fashion genre. The “Texpro Design CAD V8.21” program was used for the textile design. A total of 3 designs were developed as the Jacquard textile design with traditional patterns using lotus flower motifs. One type of fabric was produced for each of the textile design with a color selected from 『Pantone Color Chips』. And finally, three woman's daily Hanbok design for either casual or and formal style were developed and these daily Hanboks were consisted of Durumagi, one-piece dress, and one set of jacket and trouser. And the actual garments were constructed and the design procedure and the photos of these works were presented. This study showed the possibility of producing highly sensible daily hanbok that suits the fashion trend of middle aged women and the widening of consumer range and the creation of new market by developing Jacquard textile design.

The current study aims to link Korean tradition to modern culture; to re-produce patterns of lotus depicted in Minwha, The study also aims to discover the beauty of Korean tradition and to modernize it. The current study is based upon document searches(including research papers) and the Internet searches. Through these searches, it investigates the concept of Minhwa, the origin of lotus depiction and its symbolic meanings, the traits of such pattern. Based upon this investigation, the study attempts to modernize the patterns of lotus and apply the modernized patterns to designing shirts. The process which employs the lotus patterns illustrated in Minhwa to shirt design includes four sub-processes: selecting, allocating, coloring, and selecting production techniques. The subprocess of selecting patterns is two folded: the first stage covers carbon-copying the distinctive features of lotus, lotus leaf, lotus bud, lotus pip, and lotus stem; the second stage is making these features suitable to shirt sizes. For the process of coloring those shirts, Piccaso’s work(Pablo Picasso, 1881～1973) has been selected and the colors in his work have been adopted to dye the rest of the shirts as well as the lotus features. The process of selecting production techniques includes ornament tail in order to modernize the patterns allocated in the shirts. Once these processes are completed, the shirts are made on a scale of real-life size. These processes of creating shirt design by modernizing traditional patterns will hopefully contribute to researchers expanding the domain of shirt design.

This study attempted to understand the value of traditional floral wall patterns reflecting the distinct aesthetic consciousness of Korean people and reinterpret the images of floral wall patterns in simplified forms. In addition, the study created new floral patterns to apply them to the design of neckties and scarves. In a methodological aspect, the computer design software programs Adobe Illustrator CS2 and Adobe Photoshop CS2 were used to make the traditional floral wall patterns motifs. Four basic motifs for a new formative image were set using graphical functions such as omitting, simplifying, overlapping, repeating, and/or reducing shapes based on floral wall patterns, and each motif was developed in two variations with different colors applied to them. Each of the set motifs was expressed in a repeated arrangement and in a modified pattern of 45 degrees. Necktie design with a floral wall pattern made use of the motifs developed through a variety of effects such as simplification, repetition, size variation, and gradation and the pattern modified at a 45°for application. Scarf design employed and applied the existing motifs in an appropriate manner for design purposes and reconstructed and expressed them through such effects as repetition, rotation, compositional variation and gradation.

The purpose of this study is to investigate the symbolic meaning of pattern designs attached on the main building of Chungcheongnam-do Provincial Government (CPG). While most of researches mainly focused on the value and evaulation of the CPG building in terms of architectural history, relatively little insight has been gained on the symbolic meaning and nature of the pattern designs. What kind of connections are related between the emblem of Governor-General of Chosun(Korea) and those of CPG? What symbolic meanings are engraved on the pattern designs? The researcher then took up the task of elucidating symbolic meanings of patterns and their relation to the building. The existing pattern on the outer wall of the CPG building consists of the symbol of sun(太陽輪), mums(菊花輪), and angle of stairs(雁木角). According to the Japanese studies of emblems, these visual elements symbolize ‘the sun of Japan’((日の丸) or ‘the emperor’, ‘the royal family’, and ‘rays of the sun’. Based on these preliminary findings, the researcher considered the following in-depth connections: (1) relations with the emblem of Governor-General of Chosun, (2) relations with the emblems of local autonomous entity, Kyoungsung in Chosun. (3) relations with the emblem designs of the local provinces in Japan etc. In conclusion, patterns of the main building were not just an architectural decoration, but they had significant meanings utilizing design elements and methods adopted by local autonomous entities in Japan. The patterns found at the ceilling and floor of hall in the CPG building were associated with the emblem of Governor-General of Chosun. Therefore, all the patterns of the CPG building are powerful symbols that have meanings for the colonial rule by using the shape and method of city identities that Japanese local provinces had enacted. That is, it came out into the open that they were designed for special meanings that Korean and Japanese are united as a single body(內鮮一體) for a subject of the Emperor of Japan(皇國臣民).

본 연구는 남성소비자들의 패션라이프스타일 유형에 따른 넥타이 문양디자인 선호도와 구매 의도를 파악하고자 하는데 그 목적이 있다. 남성소비자들의 패션라이프스타일 유형은 '유행 지향', '보수 전통지향', '과시적 브랜드 지향', '개성 지향', '실용 지향', '패션 무관심' 형으로 분류되었다. 각각의 패션 라이프스타일 요인들을 군집 분석하여 남성소비자들의 패션라이프스타일에 따른 집단을 '개성 추구', '실용 & 브랜드 추구', '보수 전통 & 개성 추구', '유행 추구', '패션 무관심' 집단으로 구분하였다. 남성소비자들의 패션라이프스타일 유형에 따라 넥타이 문양 선호와 구매 의사에는 차이가 있는 것으로 나타났다. '실용 지향'형은 '무지단색', '원', '페이즐리'의 넥타이 문양을 선호하는 경향이 있는 반면, '꽃' 문양은 선호하지 않는 것으로 나타났다. '보수 전통지향', '과시적 브랜드지향', '실용 지향'형은 '줄', '체크'의 넥타이 문양을 선호하는 경향으로 나타났고, '유행 지향', '과시적 브랜드지향', '개성 지향'형은 '무지단색', '꽃', '동물'의 넥타이 문양을 선호하는 것으로 나타났다. '유행 지향'형은 '무지단색', '꽃', '동물'의 넥타이 문양에 대한 구매 의사가 있는 반면, '실용 지향'형은 '원' 문양에 대한 구매 의사가 있는 것으로 나타났다. '실용지향'형은 '원' 문양에 대한 선호 및 구매 의사가 동시에 있었고, '유행 지향'형 역시 '무지단색', '꽃', '동물' 문양에 대한 선호 및 구매 의사가 동시에 있는 것으로 나타났다. 반면, '보수 전통지향' 및 '과시적 브랜드 지향'형이 '줄', '체크' 문양에 대한 선호가 높았으나, 구매 의사는 '페이즐리' 문양에 있는 것으로 조사되어 선호하는 넥타이 문양과 구매하고자 하는 문양 간에 차이를 보였다.