This study explores the contemporary reinterpretation of traditional suit design through the lens of post-structuralist philosopher Jacques Derrida’s concept of decentralization. The objective is to systematically analyze the diverse expression methods of decentralized suits in contemporary fashion and identify their design characteristics, thus exploring various design possibilities for decentraliz suits. To achieve this, the study examines the deconstructivist fashion collections of notable designers such as Martin Margiela, Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons, Alexander McQueen, and Thom Browne, analyzing 269 decentralized suits from their men’s collections from 2009 to the present. The methods of decentralization are categorized based on the structure (composition), details, and materials of the garments, are classified into deconstruction, discontinuity, and disorder. Specific expression methods include irregular wearing, layering, asymmetry, and distortion for deconstruction; omission, heterogeneous insertion, material transition, and separation for discontinuity; and tearing, graffiti, and unfinished elements for disorder. The identified design characteristics are as follows: gender-neutral and category-free, which dismantles the rigid formality and masculine image of suits to allow flexible and diverse gender expressions; integration of unconventional elements, which combines traditional suit design with non-traditional details like ruffles, strings, unfinished edges, and graffiti to create new designs; and sustainable design, which utilizes the deconstruction and recombination of existing suits to recycle discarded suits, making it suitable for upcycling.

This study aims to examine the expressive characteristics of the New Chinese style in the collection of Chinese fashion designer Ziggy Chen, analyze the inner meaning, and suggest a new direction in Chinese fashion design. As a research method, the background and concept of New-Chinese style occurrence were examined through previous studies, and the characteristics of the New Chinese style expression in fashion were investigated. The characteristics of the New Chinese style were summarized as cultural tradition, historical ethnicity, and pluralistic convergence. Based on these contents, the characteristics of the New Chinese style expression in Ziggy Chen’s men’s fashion design were analyzed. The data collection range was selected as the range of 20 seasons collected from 2012 S/S to 2022 A/W, which was collected on fashion sites and the brand’s official Instagram. The analysis results are as follows. First, subcultural resistance is a retro and ragged decadence formed by combining punk elements and industrial styles based on the clothing styles of lower-class Chinese people in the 17th and 90s. Second, cultural traditionality was influenced by traditional culture by mainland Chinese designers, who expressed the conservative presence of tradition and the Chinese style by looking at it from an oriental perspective. Third, historical ethnicity forms a Chinese fashion culture in which the national spirit and the development of the times coexist, while traditional culture and contemporary social values develop in harmony. Fourth, traditional fashion develops by combining a contemporary aesthetic sense and lifestyle with pluralistic convergence.

ㅊThis study aims to analyze fashion design cases using traditional elements based on the research and analysis of traditional folk cultural paper-cutting crafts in China, and to expand the area of fashion design using traditional elements by developing 3D digital fashion design. For herein, the techniques and characteristics of Chinese paper-cutting crafts were investigated. This survey facilitated an analysis of the formative characteristics of battery crafts in contemporary fashion design. As for the analysis case, the case of using battery crafts expressed in modern fashion for 10 years from 2010 to 2024 S/S was selected. The results are as follows. First, the typical characteristics of Chinese paper cutting technology—relief, micro-carved, combined with relief and micro-carved expressive techniques of engraving art effect— can be explored by analyzing contemporary fashion case collections through the perspective and trend of leading traditional culture. Second, in the traditional paper cutting process, most paper-cutting works are expressed in red, but white and black are mainly used in fashion, in addition to the active use of the five colors. Third, the characteristics of contemporary fashion patterns primarily utilize the paper-cutting process, incorporating elements such as plants, animals, and geometric patterns. Fourth, the utilization of paper cutting in 3D digital design offers time and economic benefits, allowing for quick adjustments to various design developments. In contemporary fashion, it is expected that the use of paper cutting can provide useful creativity and value for the inheritance and modernization of traditional culture.

Clothing is intimately intertwined with daily lives as every individual relies on it. The pervasive issue of plagiarism in the fashion industry has led to an increased demand to protect intellectual property rights. Currently, studies on the protection of fashion design intellectual property rights in China remain in the exploratory stage and warrant further investigation. This paper addresses the issue in two parts. The first part contains an analysis of the theoretical foundation for the protection of fashion design copyrights. It is further divided into three subsections. The first subsection primarily examines the concept of copyrights and laws. The second subsection focuses on the concept of fashion design copyrights and laws. The third subsection analyzes copyright laws concerning fashion designs in China. The second section offers an analysis of infringement cases involving fashion designs published during the Baiyi Cup Intellectual Property Case Summary Writing Competition held in China in 2023. It outlines the shortcomings of the current Chinese copyright laws regarding the protection of fashion designs, and proposes measures for improvement. This study argues that the institutional framework for intellectual property rights in the Chinese fashion industry should align with practical considerations and explores suitable legal regulations and how they relate to specific circumstances in China. Besides refining the legal framework, fashion designers and enterprises must take measures to entablish the intellectual property rights of their clothing brands.

This study aimed to explore sustainable fashion design plans and directions by analyzing Marine Serre’s collection. Previous research was reviewed to derive classifications of the aesthetic characteristics of sustainable fashion design. This classification was then used to analyze the characteristics of the Marine Serre collection. Design analysis was conducted on Marine Serre’s 2018 FW to 2023 SS collections. Marine Serre’s sustainability characteristics are functionality, surprise, handicraft, and inclusion. The results are as follows. First, functionality is the highest among the four characteristics and includes the functionality of movement, the functionality of form, and futurism. This characteristic was observed in the use of all-in-one body suits, pockets, and workwear, showing the will and values of designers who value daily activity. Second, surprise includes the scarcity of materials and the unexpectedness of composition. The value of the clothing is enhanced by the use of scarce materials not typically used in clothing. In addition, Marine Serre is highly regarded for expanding clothing into life by incorporating material upcycling into the theme of the collection. Third, handcrafted features include exaggerated decorations, logo, retro designs, and natural properties, and intentional utilization is differentiated. Marine Serre’s signature pattern suggests a suitable expression for the fabric to use the crescent moon for the season. Fourth, the collection expresses themes of inclusivity and cultural diversity. The results indicate that Marine Serre wants to contribute to a better future characterized by global coexistence.

This study was aimed at examining the characteristics of women’s blue denim on the basis of design elements to provide fundamental data for fashion majors and fashion designers. Seven design elements were selected from previous studies to compare them with the following characteristics of blue denim: color (washing, dyeing), ornamentation (trimming, detailing, painting, and printing), and form modification, tearing, and ripping). Data from 1,520 photographs of the 2019 S/S to the 2023–24 F/W collections were collected through overlapping checks. The data were then subjected to frequency analysis using the Statistical Package for the Social Sciences (version 26). The results are as follows: The most frequent design method used in producing the denim items in our sample was washing, followed by modification, tearing, and ripping and detailing. The greatest change in denim design occurred in 2023, and more design element changes were observed in the F/W season than in the S/S season. Washing was used four times or more frequently than dyeing, while detailing was employed approximately 2 times more often than trimming. With respect to form, the most common approach was modification, followed by tearing and ripping.

This study aims to merge Picasso’s expressive elements and deconstructive fashion’s formative traits, proposing an upcycle fashion design that fuses artistic and philosophical aspects. The analysis of Picasso’s Cubism identified qualities like liberating revolution, fluidity of vision, geometric reducibility, complex symbolism, and creative imitation. The analysis of Derrida’s deconstructionism revealed expressive traits: uncertainty, intertextuality, différance, and dis-de phenomenon. An upscale fashion design was developed based on six Picasso works featuring women. The design was created using the fashion design software CLO 3D and integrated clothing waste and scrap fabrics as materials.The results are as follows. First, upcycle fashion was viewed from a new perspective based on Picasso and Derrida’s values. This perspective suggested creating better ethical values by upholding environmental protection in novel ways that overcome limitations rather than destroy existing values indiscriminately. Second, upcycle fashion design methodologies were derived from various perspectives utilizing formative features of Picasso’s works and specific expressive features of deconstructed fashion. Third, the direction of mitigating waste and pollution from clothing production and transportation was revealed by making clothes in a virtual space using the CLO 3D program. This study contributed to obtaining various methods for developing upcycle fashion designs using own methods of Picasso and Derrida to diversify the approaches of upcycling, which is relatively stagnant in disassembling.

본 연구는 패션 산업현장에서 발생하는 실제 문제 해결을 위해 필요한 지식을 자기 주도적으로 학습하고, 이를 실제 상황에서 적용하여 협업을 통한 창의적인 문제 해결 능력을 습득할 수 있는 PBL 기반 디자이씽킹 을 활용한 패션디자인 수업모델을 제안하는 것을 목적으로 하고 있다. 연구 내용은 PBL과 디자인씽킹의 핵심 요소들을 융합한 DT-PBL 모델 을 적용한 수업을 설계하고 부마민주항쟁 기념상품개발이라는 실제적인 시나리오를 중심으로 문제해결안을 도출해가는 수업 과정을 운영하였다. 수업 운영 결과, 학습자는 자기 주도적 학습 활동을 진행하는 과정에서 소통과 협업 능력을 발휘하여 창의적인 문제해결안을 도출하는 역량이 향상되는 학습 성과를 확인할 수 있었다. 따라서, DT-PBL은 패션 관련 전공 PBL 교과목 수업 설계 시 디자인씽킹을 활용하여 패션산업 현장의 실무를 창의적이고 자기 주도적으로 문제해결안을 도출할 수 있는 효율 적인 패션디자인 수업모델과 수업사례로 활용될 수 있기를 기대한다.

The objective of this study was to explore the symbolism associated with phoenix patterns in China and the temporal aesthetic characteristics of these patterns found in Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes. The study involved collecting examples of clothing designs featuring phoenix patterns from China Fashion Week and the Vogue website, spanning from spring and summer of 2016 to fall and winter of 2022. After collecting and organizing these examples, representative cases were selected for analysis. The objective was to identify effective techniques for incorporating phoenix patterns within the context of Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes and provided insights for future clothing design and textile pattern design research. Phoenix patterns boasted a lengthy history and were laden with symbolic meaning. Early renditions of phoenix patterns found at Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang were relatively simplistic in design, mainly employing elements like rhythm, coordination, balance and symmetry to convey a sense of nature and gravity. Over time, these patterns evolved under the influence of the prevailing cultural backdrop, employing repeated emphasis to portray notions of abundance and tenacity. Furthermore, regarding the use of phoenix patterns in clothing, there were four prevalent expression techniques: embroidery, beading, printing, and knitting. Traditional techniques like embroidery and beadwork often prioritized aesthetic features like coordination, emphasis, and symmetry, thereby showcasing the opulent characteristics of phoenix patterns. On the other hand, printing and knitting techniques used a single phoenix pattern or a modified version to simplify designs by emphasizing or repeating aesthetic characteristics while adhering to a modern artistic approach.

In this study, an empirical analysis was conducted on the use of Korean design elements in the Hanbokwave project in 2022 in order to identify the expressed fashion characteristics and define Korean style. A case study was conducted on 98 items of clothing representing 10 Hanbok designer brands, and an analysis card was developed and used that classifies the silhouette of each item in detail. The analysis showed that in addition to the traditional skirt and Jeogori, the four stages of simulakr’s image were prevalent in various fashion items such as shirts, blouses, jackets, crop tops, vests, dresses, and pants. In the composition of sleeves, many western clothing methods such as set-in-sleeve use and adjustment, hardcover buttons, and zippers were used to fuse the three-dimensional structure of western clothing and elements of traditional Hanbok to redefine it as postmodernism. It was recognized as a modern fashion, such as the trend of mixing and matching tops and bottoms, not a skirt and Jeogori set, by layering traditional clothes without hesitation or using them as a dress. As for the silhouette of the bottoms, the A-line showed a high frequency, and the prominent shape was identified as a traditional element widely used in modern Hanboks along with the element of wrinkles. This study is thought to be used as practical data for design development for the globalization of K-fashion in the future.

This study analyzes traditional women’s Hu costumes of the Tang dynasty, and deploys a creative fashion design to converge contemporary and traditional styles. In this costume, women wear a robe with striped or plain patterns in the lower part of the pants, and it appears frequently in red and yellow colors. Depending on the sleeve, it is either a round collar or a turn down collar robe. In the Hu hat, the huntuomao and juanyanxumao were leather and mili and weimao were used to prevent the sand from flowing. This study uses the CLO 3D program with the “moment” theme based on the Hu costume for women to deploy 4 pairs of fashion design and to produce works for 2 pairs. The 3D virtual clothing program demonstrates important effects in design deployment and pattern arrangement through its efficiency and convenience of clothing production. The CLO 3D program was closely combined with the 2D design and the 3D affect, and it heightened the efficiency in saving the processing time and energy of the sample clothes. Through facilitating the 3D digital fashion design, the production may reduce time needed and contribute to an effective economy, and it may compare digital fashion design to actual products as well as illustrate the potential of digital fashion design.

This study aims to use Art brut works—the artwork of the socially underprivileged and alienated—to influence social roles in fashion design, employing a formative expression method to promote social acceptance of diversity in the industry. The research method involved investigating Art brut’s concept and evolution in domestic and foreign literature and previous studies. The formative characteristics of the movement were derived by analyzing the works of Art brut artist Johann Hauser. One hundred and twenty images of Johann’s work were collected through online sources like the Gugging Museum’s website, Christian Berst Gallery’s website were developed as fashion design using the CLO 3D program. The formative characteristics of Johann’s works appeared to be transparent overlapping, divisional decorativeness emphasized simplicity, and vibrant chromaticity. Based on this analysis, the results of the 3D digital fashion designs were as follows. First, the characteristics of the atypical objects and figures in Johann’s works were applied to the design silhouette, revealing a uniquely beautiful form. Second, Johann used a method in which numerous line shapes overlap and fill the area. The point of connecting the work is expressed as a graphic pattern by decorating the lines of the hem and hem of the garment with piping or attaching overlapping straps on top of pants and dresses. Third, the combination of overlapping colors used in Johann’s work is a color block design of fashion, which utilizes the formative fun.

Zero-waste pattern cutting is a groundbreaking sustainable fashion practice. However, few brands and designers have pursued this method because it requires creative pattern design that diverges from the existing process of using pattern slopers. Therefore, application within the fashion industry is not sufficient. Therefore, in an attempt to highlight the key characteristics of zero-waste pattern design, this study classifies and analyzes cases in which similar designs employ zero-waste pattern-cutting techniques. We hope to make zero-waste pattern design more accessible by presenting realistic pattern-cutting guidelines. To this end, theoretical research on relevant literature, previous research, and online resources and an empirical analysis of cases involving zero-waste pattern cutting were conducted in parallel. As a result of the study, we were able to classify the factors of zero-waste pattern design in terms of fabric use, design, and composition. Regarding materials, our research revealed the importance of appropriate fabric width, understanding the difference between waste minimization and minimal fabric use, and easy reuse and recycling. In terms of design, the simultaneous progress of pattern and design work, adjustable loose silhouettes, and the use of surplus fabric for functional and decorative details emerged as key characteristics. For composition, we found that size adjustment limits, arrangement irregularity, and pattern shapes were crucial elements and that various arrangements revealed unlimited design potential.

The purpose of this study is to apply the traditional Chinese fretwork on the ‘Faux Chenille’ textile work method in a way of enhancing the decorative features of patterns and developing the fashion design. As for the method, it works on the historic background and advancement of the fretwork and it refers to the bibliographies pertinent to the traditional Chinese geometric pattern. The result are as follows. First, pure cotton and 100% rayon are mixed to make it feasible to produce the texture for the material to be tender and enhanced, and in the process of washing and drying the Faux Chenille textile. The Faux Chenille textile is an important material that is required to select materials with great absorption capability as the most effective material to re-visualize the lines and patterns by sustaining the diagonal lines. Second, the fretwork is designed to process the basic formation for 90° angle with the sense of unlimited extensive line and changes with straight line. It has been confirmed that, if the angle that controls the Faux Chenille textile and the tailoring interval are well aligned, the expression of traditional geometric pattern would be effective and it may be expressed in contemporary style. Third, through the fashion design application by utilizing the Faux Chenille textile of the fretwork, it is confirmed that the contemporary application of the traditional culture could be expressed uniquely and creatively while it is affirmed that the western technique and Asian culture can be blended in harmony.

The environment has increasingly attracted attention and fashion brands need to use new growth models by developing eco-friendly products, along with the drastic climate change. This study drew design guidelines from the factors of clothing disposal and reuse to propose ways to extend the longevity of clothing. It sets the design goals for the longevity extension of clothing as flexibility, originality, durability, and adjustability and drew a specific design guideline. The design methods used to achieve such goals are as follows. First, the design that is flexible in terms of physical changes needs to increase its activity and to be changeable, by applying pleats, rubber bands and elastic materials to the parts with many physical changes and movements. Second, it is necessary to reinforce the brand identity, create design that is flexible in terms of fashion and design very rare and attractive products, for the goal of original design beyond fashion. Third, it is necessary to increase the quality of clothing and improve the durability which can be decreased by washing and wearing. Fourth, it is necessary to create the design that can produce various styles, preserve the state of clothing and maintain its hygienic conditions by using removable detailed designs, shape-transformation designs and the designs which can be adjusted to climate changes and states, for the goal of adjustable design with better functionality. The findings provide ideas for fashion experts to pay more attention to the extending the longevity of clothing products and to develop eco-friendly designs and strategies.