This study aims to examine the expressive characteristics of the New Chinese style in the collection of Chinese fashion designer Ziggy Chen, analyze the inner meaning, and suggest a new direction in Chinese fashion design. As a research method, the background and concept of New-Chinese style occurrence were examined through previous studies, and the characteristics of the New Chinese style expression in fashion were investigated. The characteristics of the New Chinese style were summarized as cultural tradition, historical ethnicity, and pluralistic convergence. Based on these contents, the characteristics of the New Chinese style expression in Ziggy Chen’s men’s fashion design were analyzed. The data collection range was selected as the range of 20 seasons collected from 2012 S/S to 2022 A/W, which was collected on fashion sites and the brand’s official Instagram. The analysis results are as follows. First, subcultural resistance is a retro and ragged decadence formed by combining punk elements and industrial styles based on the clothing styles of lower-class Chinese people in the 17th and 90s. Second, cultural traditionality was influenced by traditional culture by mainland Chinese designers, who expressed the conservative presence of tradition and the Chinese style by looking at it from an oriental perspective. Third, historical ethnicity forms a Chinese fashion culture in which the national spirit and the development of the times coexist, while traditional culture and contemporary social values develop in harmony. Fourth, traditional fashion develops by combining a contemporary aesthetic sense and lifestyle with pluralistic convergence.

The emergence of environmental and social issues has led to global discussions for the realization of sustainable development. The purpose of this study is to propose a method of sustainable fashion design using waste Hanbok, focusing on men's Hanbok with cultural values. The study utilizes literature research and fashion design development. From the literature study, reform was judged to be a higher concept encompassing reduction, recycling, and upcycling. Reduction is a design method through removal, and recycling design transforms from its original form into a completely different product. Upcycling design focuses on improvement and change in functionality. Accordingly, nine redesigns using men’s Hanbok were developed from which three were produced. Consequently, the reduction design demonstrated a small range of variation without changing the item, and cultural sustainability was confirmed through the design that removed the components and recombined the Hanbok. Second, recycling redesign can be reconstituted into a different item. Third, upcycling enables various designs through module assembly, which prolongs the lifespan of the product and confirms its value as a raw material for waste Hanbok. This study is meaningful in realizing sustainable fashion and suggesting practical measures for the sustainability of Korean traditional culture and creative fashion design planning.

This study is aimed at applying the philosophical concept of “différance” to contemporary men’s fashion design, which could effectively show the shift in thinking. For the study method, the author examined the theoretical background of deconstruction and prepared the standard of analysis by organizing the concept of “différance,” which exists at the center of philosophy. This study selected the three most popular brands: Maison Margiela, Comme des Garcons, and Yohji Yamamoto. The results are as follows. First, there is expression of perpetual reservation emphasizing time. This includes texture, patchworks, hems with ladder, and exposure of seam that expresses the trace of time flow and delayed delivery of immediate meaning, and the expression creates delay between major and minor and leads to consistent role exchange. Second, the trace of blank that emphasizes the space gives a visual sense of weight on spares with the intentionally granted space, as well as the space that is the trace of trace and creates a sense of depth through the direction of empty space. Third, the space created in the process of wearing cloth is visualized, the structure of clothing is deconstructed, and the movement from the process recomposes the shape of space and expands the definition that enables expansion of time and space. Fourth, the undetermined relationship expresses the border of time and space visually and deconstructs time and space. The approaches are mostly constructive, demonstrating an avant-garde form of clothes-wearing to show the non-form or imbalance condition.

This study suggests a new perspective for designing men’s tailored jackets by more carefully considering human muscle structure. For this study, we examined research regarding the construction of the tailored jacket that is based on costume history references, as well as research regarding human muscle structure that is based on human anatomy references and the analysis of recent fashion designs illustrating the human body image. Based on this research, we developed various tailored constructions that account for human muscle structure. These constructions are applied primarily to the backs of four tailored jackets, as the back of the jacket needs a mechanism to accommodate the wearer’s movement. The following conclusions have been derived from the study: First, by developing the tailored garment structure that accounts for the muscle structure of the human body, we suggest a new design direction for tailored garments. Second, we propose a new type of tailored jacket structure for the back of the jacket that incorporates an artificial muscle structure to accommodate the wearer’s activities. This new type of jacket indicates the potential for designs that use structure, particularly the structure of the human body. Finally, by using the embroidery technique, we changed the texture of the material into the shape of human muscle. Thus, we propose a design that uses three-dimensional volume to accounts for the shape of human body tissue.

The purpose of this study is to serve as a reference for creative fashion design by analyzing the types and aesthetic characteristics of trompe l’oeil in contemporary men’s fashion. This research is an empirical study that utilizes both qualitative and quantitative methods to analyze fashion design cases and research articles such as academic papers and professional books. The study covers four major men’s collections: Paris, Milan, New York, and London. The period being analyzed is from 2005 Spring/Summer, which is widely regarded as a turning point at which men’s collections began rapidly, to 2019 Spring/Summer. The study analyzes 471 photos from domestic and international websites, with the following results. Types of trompe l’oeil in contemporary male fashion are classified into four types: (1) the deconstruction of clothing forms or creation methods, (2) optical illusions that create the effect of multiple layers of clothing on a single article of clothing and the reproduction of apparel details and clothing using 2D printing or embroideries, (3) realistic patterns on garments to create a camouflage effect, and (4) articles of clothing containing body images such as the chest, trunk, or internal human anatomy. These aesthetic characteristics in men’s fashion design using types of trompe l’oeil are playful, deconstructive, and decorative features based on hyper-reality. This study aims to acknowledge trompe l’oeil as being widely used in contemporary men’s fashion as a type of formative art, playing a crucial role in creative fashion design.

The study investigated the relationship between body satisfaction and attitudes toward trendy clothing among men in Generation Y with fashion involvement being a mediator in that relationship. Findings suggested a negative relationship between body satisfaction and attitudes toward trendy clothing and a mediator role of fashion involvement.

시대가 급속히 변화함에 따라 남성의 라이프 스타일, 개성, 가치관 등이 다양하며 과거에 비해 남성복에 대한 기호도 변하였을 뿐만 아니라 또 남성복 시장이 증대되었고 전에 없던 새로운 스타일이 많이 등장하였으나 활발한 여성복 감성 연구와 달리 남성복의 스타일에 따른 감성 연구는 미비한 실정이다. 이에 20대 남성들이 주로 착용하는 스타일을 7가지 대표 자극물로 선정하고 자극물로 제시하여 각 스타일에 대한 소비자의 감성을 조사하였다. 스타일 1 (정장), 스타일 2 (라이더재킷+스키니 팬츠), 스타일 3 (블루종+스트레이트 팬츠), 스타일 4 (박시한 가디건+하프 팬츠), 스타일 5 (야전상의+스트레이트 팬츠), 스타일 6 (루즈핏 재킷+스키니 팬츠), 스타일 7 (야구점퍼+스트레이트 팬츠) 등 남성복 스타일에 따른 감성의 차이를 조사하였으며 성별에 따른 남성복에 대한 관심과 지식정도 차이를 비교하였고 남성복의 선호와 실제착용 간에 차이가 있는지 분석하였고 라이프 스타일 유형에 따른 선호하는 스타일을 측정하였다. 그 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 남성복은 다양하고 세분화되었고 남성복에 대한 관심과 지식은 남성이 여성보다 높게 나타났다. 둘째, 남성복에 대한 감성은 스타일에 따라 유의한 차이가 있었지만 이는 성별에 따라 다르지 않았다. 셋째, 20대가 가장 선호하는 선호스타일과 실제로 즐겨 입는 착장스타일 간에는 차이가 존재하였는데, 일치하는 비율은 66.1% 이었고, 불일치하는 경우는 33.9% 이였다. 선호도와 실제 착용도가 가장 높은 것은 스타일 3 이었으며, 가장 선호되지 않고 착용되지 않는 것은 스타일 5 이었다. 넷째, 내향적보다 외향적 라이프 스타일을 지닐수록 더 다양한 스타일에 대하여 선호도를 나타내었다.

In the era of 2.0 web, blog has become the media that men can express themselves with fashion more actively and independently, as paying much attention to their personal appearance and cultivating an upscale lifestyle. They often create their fashion images in the virtual space where enables a free and creative operations of self-expression. The study aims to identify the types of men's ego-images represented on the personal fashion blogs based on the framework of analysis from the previous research (Suh, 2014), to build the base data for analyzing men's fashion style in 21st21st century that reflects changes in men's sexual images, and to verify the framework as comparing with the previous case study about the women blogs (Suh, 2014). The case studies conducted 5 men's personal blogs such as bryanboy, iamgala, little fashionisto, katelovesme, and stylentonic. The study results almost same types of women's ego-images as following. The imaginary ego-image is classified as narcissism, regression, identification, and virtuality, the social ego-image as symbolism of roles and others'desire, the real ego as primary instinct, practical reality, object a, jouissance and sexual perversion. The personal style of men shown on the fashion blogs appears as a significant factor to analyze male customers in the growing men's beauty and fashion market.

본 연구는 첫째, 패션 마케팅에서 남성 패션 편집매장 VMD를 인테리어 디스플레이 관점으로 파악하기 위한 방법론을 모색한다. 둘째, 남성 패션 편집매장 사례분석을 위해 분더샵, 시리즈, 비이커, 코에보, 라움맨 매장의 인테리어 디스플레이의 VMD 구성 요소를 살펴본다. 셋째, 인테리어 디스플레이 관점에서 남성 패션 편집매장의 VMD 특성을 도출한다. 인테리어 디스플레이의 특성은 셀프서비스, 쇼케이스, 카운터, 환경 디스플레이로 살펴볼 수 있으며, 남성 패션 편집매장 VMD의 진열적·연출적 요소의 특성은 다음과 같다. 첫째, 상품의 정보 제공과 진열을 중심으로 하는 셀프서비스 디스플레이는 다양한 브랜드를 판매하는 편집 매장에서 편리한 쇼핑 환경을 제공하여 매장의 효율적인 관리를 가능하게 한다. 둘째, 쇼케이스 디스플레이는 고급스러운 매장 분위기 연출과 고가의 상품 구성이 높은 패션 전문 기업 남성 편집매장 브랜드 가치를 높인다. 셋째, 카운터 디스플레이는 구매 결정시 카운터 주변에 제품의 스타일링 정보와 연계 상품을 진열하여 고객들의 구매 의도를 높인다. 넷째, 환경 디스플레이는 즐거운 쇼핑 분위기 연출을 유도하며 매장내의 제품에 대한 흥미 유발을 한다.