The purpose of this study is to provide basic data for the production of jackets with high fit by comparing and analyzing the adhesive and non-adhesive production methods of men's jackets. An analysis of the manufacturing method showcased differences between the adhesive and non-adhesive manufacturing methods in the cutting and wick attachment method, the shape and attachment method of the chest reinforcing wick, the sleeve attachment method, and the shoulder pad and sleeve reinforcing cloth attachment method. In evaluating the outfit, the overall fit of the shoulder, the fit of the chest, and the fit of the armpit were found to be high in the non-adhesive production method. In evaluating appearance evaluation, the front shoulder, chest, and sleeve overall appearance showed a high non-adhesive production method. Therefore, in order to increase the wearability of the shoulder pad and the the attachment method of the upper sleeve reinforcing cloth, the non-adhesive production method should be used, and in order to increase the overall wearability and armpit wear of the chest, the difference in the attachment method, and the reinforcement method of the armhole should be used. In addition, to increase the appearance of the jacket, non-adhesive production methods such as differences in wick attachment methods, shoulder pads, sleeve reinforcing cloth, and sleeve attachment methods should be used.

Existing reinforced concrete buildings with seismically deficient details have premature failure under earthquake loads. The fiber-reinforced polymer column jacket enhances the lateral resisting capacities with additional confining pressures. This paper aims to quantify the retrofit effect varying the confinement and stiffness-related parameters under three earthquake scenarios and establish the retrofit strategy. The retrofit effects were estimated by comparing energy demands between non-retrofitted and retrofitted conditions. The retrofit design parameters are determined considering seismic hazard levels to maximize the retrofit effects. The critical parameters of the retrofit system were determined by the confinement-related parameters at moderate and high seismic levels and the stiffness-related parameters at low seismic levels.

This study aimed to suggest a suitable collar pattern by visually evaluating the appearance of the amount of collar drape by the starting position of the lapel line of a double-breasted tailored jacket using a 3d virtual fitting program. It created an avatar based on the mean size of women in their 20s (the 8th Size Korea) using clo network (double fastening: 10cm, collar width: 4.5cm, collar stand: 3cm, and lapel width: 8.5cm). The starting of the lapel twist line was waistline level, the 1/2 level of bustline and waistline, or bustline level, and collar laying amount was 4.5, 5.5, 6.5, or 7.5cm. It was evaluated by garment construction experts using 5, 6, and 4 items on the front, sides, and back, respectively. Descriptive statistics, F-test, Duncantest, and reliability analysis were conducted using SPSS 22. When collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. Under waist line, when collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. When collar laying amount was large, the collar’s outline length increased, resulting in unnecessary wrinkles from the neckline to the lapel, affecting the overall collar appearance. When collar laying amount was the smallest, the collar was lifted and the width was narrowed, exposing the seam connecting the collar and neckline. The length of the collar’s outline varied depending on collar laying amount, which was important to make the outline sit comfortably on the body.

This study initiated research aligned with the body positivity movement, aiming to explore size diversity for groups facing relative size discrimination due to their deviation from average body types. Using KS adult women's apparel dimensions as a reference, jackets were developed for women in their 20s to 30s who belong to the small petite-size (S[P]) category, which is characterized by a height under 155cm (petite) and a bust-circumference from 72cm to less than 82cm (small). Using 3D virtual-fitting, we conducted experiment-pattern production and refinement and subsequent real-fitting evaluations by participants to objectively validate aesthetics and comfort. The study’s findings are as follows: First, utilizing a 3D virtual-fitting program by identifying ‘creases’ and ‘garment pressure points’ in the jacket appearance, experiment patterns were refined and real jackets were produced. This approach addressed challenges in recruiting participants with specific body types and allowed for efficient research in terms of cost and time. Second, through real-fitting evaluations, basic-fit and slim-fit jackets labeled as <79-88-150> were developed for the S(P) size. we presented ‘size spec’ and ‘ease allowance’ for jackets by waist fit. Both fits received positive evaluations with approximately 53.5cm sleeve length, and 11.7cm shoulder length. The ease allowances for the basic-fit jacket were approximately 9.2cm at the bust circumference, 12.8cm at the waist circumference, and 6cm at the hip circumference. Similarly, the slim-fit jacket exhibited ease allowances of about 4.8cm at the bust circumference, 4cm at the waist circumference, and 4cm at the hip circumference, receiving positive evaluations for aesthetics and comfort.

Existing reinforced concrete (RC) frame buildings have seismic vulnerabilities because of seismically deficient details. In particular, since cumulative damage caused by successive earthquakes causes serious damage, repair/retrofit rehabilitation studies for successive earthquakes are needed. This study investigates the repair effect of fiber-reinforced polymer jacketing system for the seismically-vulnerable building structures under successive earthquakes. The repair modeling method developed and validated from the previous study was implemented to the building models. Additionally, the main parameters of the FRP jacketing system were selected as the number of FRP layers associated with the confinement effects and the installation location. To define the repair effects of the FRP jacketing system with the main parameters, this study conducted nonlinear time-history analyses for the building structural models with the various repairing scenarios. Based on this investigation, the repair effects of the damaged building structures were significantly affected by the damage levels induced from the mainshocks regardless of the retrofit scenarios.

This study aimed to analyze adult men’s body sizes and shapes and suggest size specifications to provide preliminary data to academia and industries. A total of 814 adult men aged 30-44 were selected from the 7th Size Korea data, and 55 direct upper body measurement and calculation items were analyzed using SPSS 25.0. In individual Individual differences, thickness, circumference, and width were high, and height and length were low. Height above the waist base line and shoulder dimension decreased in early 40s age group, while height below the waist base line declined as age increased. In addition, buttocks shape changes were found in early 40s age group. According to factor analysis, ‘upper body and upper-extremity horizontal size’, ‘torso height and upper extremity length’, ‘shoulder dimension’, ‘upper body length’ and ‘shoulder angle’ were derived. Using clustering analysis, four different body types were classified: i) big abdomen with flat chest, ii) slender with big, raised shoulders, iii) dwarfish with small, droopy shoulders, and iv) obese with large shoulders. ‘Slender with big, raised shoulders’ was a typical body shape among men aged 30-44. In older participants, the ‘big abdomen with flat chest’ ratio was low, while ‘obese with large shoulders’ was more common. This study proposed size specifications by body type considering the above characteristics.

This study analyzed product conditions in terms of “size system,” “clothing construction depending on fit,” “details,” “colors,” and “prices,” with an emphasis on young contemporary brands for spring/summer 2021, in order to provide basic data for the development of small-sized women’s jackets. Out of 96 domestic and foreign brands, the study analyzed 254 small-sized jacket products from 23 brands that produce size-XS jackets. First, when examining the sizes for women’s jackets, we found that 8 out of the 23 brands offer a size-XXS option. After conducting tree analysis to analyze the factors affecting the production of size-XXS, the study found significant results in the areas of “distinction between domestic and foreign brands” and “product price.” Second, after categorizing small-sized women’s jackets into 3 categories— fit-slim, basic, and straight—the study analyzed clothing construction elements depending on fit. This seasons mainly feature straight-fit’s hip-line length jacket, a 4-panel pattern, and a panel without a waist dart. Third, the study, through the analysis of the colors of small-sized women’s jackets, found a higher frequency of colors in the order of black (23.0%), white (13.3%), and beige tones (10.1%), with additional colors such as sky blue, rose pink, and aquamarine in production, which exhibit the senses of the seasons. Price analysis revealed that small-sized jackets constituted a price range at the mid-to-low end, as in ₩50,000-100,000 (30.3%), ₩100,000- 150,000 (19.3%), and ₩150,000-200,000 (11.8%).

This paper aims to develop numerical models for seismically-deficient reinforced concrete columns retrofitted using a fiber-reinforced polymer jacketing system under blast loading scenarios. To accomplish the research goal, a coupling model reproducing blast loads was developed and implemented to the column model. The column model was validated with a past experimental study, and the blast responses were compared to the numerical responses produced by past researchers. The validated modeling method was implemented to the non-retrofitted and retrofitted column models to estimate the effectiveness of the retrofit system. Based on the numerical responses, the retrofit system can significantly reduce the peak dynamic responses under a given blast loading scenario.

This study develops finite element models for seismically-deficient reinforced concrete building frame retrofitted using fiber-reinforced polymer jacketing system and validates the finite element models with full-scale dynamic test for as-built and retrofitted conditions. The bond-slip effects measured from a past experimental study were modeled using one-dimensional slide line model, and the bond-slip models were implemented to the finite element models. The finite element model can predict story displacement and inter-story drift ratio with slight simulation variation compared to the measured responses from the full-scale dynamic tests.

This study classifies the compositional methods of power shoulder jackets from 1980 to the present. It analyzes the relevance of jacket details according to how the power shoulder changes and its compositional methods by era. The research subdivides shoulder compositional techniques into seven, based on shoulder variation, sleeve variation, and the body and sleeve combination. The researcher investigates the frequency and trends of composing shoulders and analyzes details pertaining to the silhouette, jacket length, collar shape, and front closure. The most common method of shoulder composition is an angular shoulder variation. The others are a rounded shoulder variation, puffed sleeve, sleeve variation using pattern incision, raglan and kimono sleeves, and a shoulder variation that expanded the angle and width. The frequency differs slightly for each era. The relationship between shoulder compositional methods and details of power shoulder jackets is statistically significant, showing period-related differences. The homogeneity analysis results reveal that the shoulder composition of power shoulder jackets, the times, and details fall into distinct groups. This analysis shows that the silhouette, length, collar, and front closure of the power shoulder jacket differ depending on the power shoulder’s compositional methods. Moreover, the shape of the power shoulder jacket is distinctly different. One can use this data to help develop the power shoulder jacket design by reflecting the details of shoulder compositional methods and changing trends over time.

This study aims to derive the criteria of folding techniques and their characteristics through analysis of literature and previous studies. This will be realized by performing a case study on male fashion design and folding. It will propose diverse directions and data for male fashion design, by making men’s jackets using a folding technique. The concept and terms of folding were clarified through examination of existing literature and previous studies. Specifically, four pieces were created with motifs of the four seasons. Among the types of pleats expressed in the works, composition pleats include double ruffles, gathers, and draperies, while processed ones include box pleats, knife pleats, and accordion pleats. This study expresses continuity, fluidity, scalability, and ambiguity through the use of such pleats. The results of the production are as follows. First, in terms of the continuous use of regular and repetitive pleats, a possibility of rich pleats was confirmed because they varied depending on the gap between the pleat and target material. Second, in liquid but irregular pleats, diverse moods were created by the pleat movement. The overlapping of repeated pleats expresses diverse spaces and shapes in a 3D extended silhouette. Third, in pleat classification, ambiguity was confirmed with the use of continuous accordion pleats in the printed gradation fabric. It is anticipated that more diverse and creative designs could be created using more extended techniques in future studies.

지진 하중에 의해 피해를 받는 교각의 보강을 위한 방법론과 다양성에 대한 연구가 활발히 진행되었지만, 단자유도에 대한 비선형 정적 분석에 대한 연구가 주로 수행되었으며, 교각을 구성하는 재료적 특성만이 변수로 간주되었다. 그러나, 교 각의 기하학적 요소와 보강 수단의 관계성에 관한 연구는 수행되지 않았다. 이에 본 연구에서는 CFRP 재킷을 사용하여 캘리포 니아에 존재하는 비 내진 상세 콘크리트 교량 교각을 보강하고 형상 변화에 따라 (교각 직경, 전단 경간 비, 보강 재킷의 길이) 교량 교각의 지진 취약성 곡선 도출하고 내진 성능을 평가하였다. 상기의 목표를 달성하기 위해 Opensees 프로그램를 사용하여 문헌에서 인용할 수 있는 실험체를 모델링하고 반복 하중을 가하여 결과 비교를 통해 해석방법의 적절성을 결정하였다.

This study suggests a new perspective for designing men’s tailored jackets by more carefully considering human muscle structure. For this study, we examined research regarding the construction of the tailored jacket that is based on costume history references, as well as research regarding human muscle structure that is based on human anatomy references and the analysis of recent fashion designs illustrating the human body image. Based on this research, we developed various tailored constructions that account for human muscle structure. These constructions are applied primarily to the backs of four tailored jackets, as the back of the jacket needs a mechanism to accommodate the wearer’s movement. The following conclusions have been derived from the study: First, by developing the tailored garment structure that accounts for the muscle structure of the human body, we suggest a new design direction for tailored garments. Second, we propose a new type of tailored jacket structure for the back of the jacket that incorporates an artificial muscle structure to accommodate the wearer’s activities. This new type of jacket indicates the potential for designs that use structure, particularly the structure of the human body. Finally, by using the embroidery technique, we changed the texture of the material into the shape of human muscle. Thus, we propose a design that uses three-dimensional volume to accounts for the shape of human body tissue.

This paper presents a framework for developing aftershock fragility curves for reinforced concrete bridges initially damaged by mainshocks. The presented aftershock fragility is a damage-dependent fragility function, which is conditioned on an initial damage state resulting from mainshocks. The presented framework can capture the cumulative damage of as-built bridges due to mainshock-aftershock sequences as well as the reduced vulnerability of bridges repaired with CFRP pier jackets. To achieve this goal, the numerical model of column jackets is firstly presented and then validated using existing experimental data available in literature. A four-span concrete boxgirder bridge is selected as a case study to examine the application of the presented framework. The aftershock fragility curves are derived using response data from back-to-back nonlinear dynamic analyses under mainshock-aftershock sequences. The aftershock fragility curves for as-built bridge columns are firstly compared with different levels of initial damage state, and then the post-repair effect of FRP pier jacket is examined through the comparison of aftershock fragility curves for as-built and repaired piers.

본 연구는 아웃도어 재킷에 대한 인식에 따라 분류된 소비자 그룹에 대하여 아웃도어 재킷의 행택 타입에 따른 정보 이해도와 기능성 의류제품 정보 표기의 대안적 방법에 대한 선호도의 차이를 고찰하였다. 행택타입에 따른 이해도 를 알아보기 위해서 투습방수성능 표현한 네 종류의 행택(‘그림만으로’, ‘그림+한국어 설명’, ‘그림+외국어설명’, ‘그래프’)을 제시하여 행택을 통해 알 수 있는 성능을 답하게 하였다. 기능성 재킷의 인식에 따른 소비자 유형별 분석을 위해, 20-60대 472명의 남녀를 세 그룹(‘비전문적/브랜드ㆍ디자인 추구집단’, ‘전문적/기능성 중시집단’, ‘고가 제품 선호집단’)으로 분류한 선행연구의 결과를 적용하여 행택 타입에 대한 이해도와 선호도를 분석하였다. 연구 결과 소비 자 유형과 관계없이 ‘그림만으로’ 표기하는 것을 가장 선호하였으며 ‘그래프’ 표기 방법을 가장 선호하지 않았다. 그러나 정답률에 있어서는 ‘그래프’표기 방법이 가장 높았으며 소비자 유형 중 특히 ‘전문적/기능성 중시 집단’에서 높은 것으로 나타나, 기능성 의류를 인식하는 유형에 따라 정보 표기에 대한 이해도와 선호도는 달라질 수 있다는 것을 알 수 있었다. 또한 ‘전문적/기능성 중시 집단’은 대안적 표기 방법에 있어서 ‘세탁 후의 성능변화’ 등과 같이 현재 제공되고 있는 정보보다 더 많은 정보를 표기해 주기를 바라고 있는 것으로 나타났다. 이와 같이 기능성 의류를 인식하는 유형에 따라 행택(hang-tag)에 표현 된 성능정보의 표현방법에 따른 이해수준에 있어서 차이를 보였으므로 연령, 성별 등의 단순 인구통계학적 분류보다 타겟층의 특성, 정보를 활용하는 유형, 제품의 특성 등을 종합하여 적합한 표기 방법을 선택하는 것이 필요할 것이다.

In women’s clothing the shoulders are distorted and exaggerated. Consequently, the wearers’ bodies are transformed and interpreted according to modern standards. We therefore refer to this aspect of women’s clothing as the power shoulder. This study aims to analyze the differences in sensibility images on variations in the shoulder shape of power shoulder jackets. Nine samples were examined that involved combinations of three variations of the shoulder height and three variations of the shoulder width. The data was evaluated by 123 fashion design majors. Four factors were selected: attractiveness, personality, activity, and self-respect. Among these factors, attractiveness is the most important. The study results indicated that changes in shoulder height acted as a major effect that had an independent influence on all four factors. In contrast, changes in shoulder width acted as a major effect that had an independent influence on attractiveness, personality, and activity but not on self-respect. It also had an influence on the interaction effect of attractiveness, personality, activity, and self-respect. We anticipate that this study will help individual customers select clothing that is suitable for their preference and body shape because it is now possible for them to estimate images of power shoulder jackets.

Despite both domestic and overseas markets are depressed due to the global financial crisis - the apparel industry is no exception, the market for the outdoor wears including the hiking ones has been recording a high growth rate, making the outdoor wear a high growth industry. The purpose of this study was to provide some basic data useful to our outdoor businesses to help them respond to consumers' needs in the rapidly growing outdoor markets. For silhouettes, the point was given primarily to the oblique cutting to have it follow the human body curves and thereby, look natural and slim. Another point was given to the color schemes along the cutting lines, so that an effect of optical illusion could be created to make the wears look slim making use of lines and colors. On the other hand, in consideration of the rapidly changing weather conditions during hiking, the details were designed practically by setting appropriate hip lengths, using attachable/detachable hoods as well as applying the Velcro & rubber band-type set-in sleeves for the tail edges. As discussed above, the researcher analyzed the design elements for the outdoor wears and developed some sensuous designs meeting consumers' needs to help our outdoor wear businesses to expand their target base, while awakening them of the importance of the outdoor fashion.

This study aims to suggest the proper ease for slim-fit jackets according to the number of buttons from a one-button jacket to four-button jackets for men in their 30’s. The researchers carried out both an appearance evaluation and movement functionality evaluation. The results are as follows: When conducting the appearance evaluations, meaningful differences were found. The one-button jacket showed high scores for the 7.5 cm ease. The two-button jacket and the three-button jacket showed high scores for the 10.5 cm ease. The four-button jacket showed a high score for the 13.5 cm ease. Next, the results of the movement functionality evaluation showed the same trend; as the ease was increased from 7.5 cm to 13.5 cm, the scores increased. This is because if the garments offer more ease, this gives room for actions. Additionally, it showed that if there were fewer jacket buttons, then the results showed a high score. The researchers believe that if the number of jacket buttons is lower, then the area of the V-zone increases, so that there is more room for movement. The study suggests a proper chest ease of 7.5 cm for the one-button jacket, 10.5 cm for the two-button jacket and three-button jacket, and 13.5 cm for the four-button jacket, respectively.