The conditions for minimizing dyes and additives when dyeing cellulose fibers such as linen, ramie, and hemp fabrics were obtained using glucose, an organic reducing agent. Dyeability and colorfastness were measured through repeated dyeing. The overall surface dyeing concentration followed the linen>hemp>ramie order, and most of the colors were in the range of PB (PurpleBlue). As the glucose concentration increased, the blue series was strengthened, and the color was dark and clear. It was determined that glucose the concentration of 4g/L was appropriate for minimizing the amount of dye. When the dyeing temperature was 30℃, the surface dyeing concentration was the highest, and the color was dark and clear. Although the dyeing concentration increased as NaOH concentration increased, 3g/L (pH 12.37) was considered appropriate for the minimum NaOH concentration, which becomes gradual after the dyeing concentration increased rapidly. It was found that the surface dyeing concentration, when repeated six times for 5 min, was better than that of dyeing once for 30 min. Washing, rubbing, and perspiration colorfastness were all found to be excellent in grades 4–4-5, and colorfastness to light was excellent in grades 5 of linen and hemp and grade 4 of ramie.

In this study, natural dyeing using Polygonum tinctoria was performed with linen, ramie, and hemp, which are biodegradable cellulose fibers, considering environmental aspects. In particular, the impacts of alkali NaOH and reducing agent Na2S2O4 were examined, and the possibilities of minimizing the use and reusing the dye were explored. The surface dye concentrations were found to be in the following order: hemp>linen>ramie. With the increase in all additives, the L* value decreased, and the ⊿E and K/S values increased gradually. When Na2S2O4 was 1g/L, the surface color of the dye appeared uniformly from the NaOH concentration of 0.4g/L (pH 10.84). When NaOH was 0.4g/L, the K/S values of linen and ramie increased rapidly after 0.4g/L of Na2S2O4, and hemp maintained a stable color from 0.6g/L of Na2S2O4. With the increase in the dye concentration from 1 to 6g/L, all the fibers were dyed uniformly. The K/S value increased or higher doubled upon repeated dyeing six times for 5 min than when dyed only once for 30 min. Therefore, the linen, ramie, and hemp fibers dyed repeatedly exhibited good washing, rubbing, and colorfastness to perspiration, which was rated between 4 and 4–5, and that to light was rated as 5. Moreover, no discoloration due to sunlight was observed. Finally, linen exhibited a bacterial reduction of 99.9%, thereby indicating its excellent antibacterial property.

본 연구는 친환경적이고 감성적인 패션상품의 색채기획을 위한 자료를 제공하고자 수행되었다. 쪽과 괴화로 복합 염색 후 무매염 견직물과 4종의 매염제(Al, Cu, Fe, Zn)를 처리한 견직물에 대하여 색채특성을 측정하였다. 또한 복합염색 후 매염처리된 연두색 견직물에 대하여 여대생을 대상으로 색채감성과 색채 선호도를 조사하였으며, 색채 특성과 색채감성이 색채 선호도에 미치는 영향을 분석하였다. 쪽/괴화로 복합염색된(무매염) 견직물은 선 염색한 쪽 농도가 10 g/ℓ이면 녹색, 쪽 20 g/ℓ을 사용하면 청록색을 나타내었으며, 4종의 매염제를 사용하여 처리시 거의 모든 경우 연두색을 나타내었다. 연두색을 나타내는 복합염색된 견직물 10종의 색채감성을 요인분석한 결과, 유쾌성, 품위성, 편안성 요인으로 분류되었으며, 이러한 색채감성은 쪽 농도와 매염제의 종류에 따라 대부분 유의한 차이를 보였다. 또한 복합염색된 연두색 견직물의 색채특성과 색채감성요인 간에는 대부분 유의한 상관성을 보여, L＊값, b＊값, C＊값이 크고 a＊값이 작을수록 유쾌성과 편안성 감성을 더 강하게 느끼며, L＊값이 작고 a＊값이 클수록 품위성 감성을 더욱 느끼는 것으로 나타났다. 따라서 쪽과 괴화로 복합염색하고 매염처리한 연두색 견직물의 색채감성요인을 예측변수로 활용할 수 있는 색채 선호도 예측 회귀식이 제안되었다.

This study measured dyeing properties under different dyeing conditions and levels of antimicrobial activity when man-made fibers are dyed with gallnut, including rayon, tencel, tencel blended fabric, soybean fiber, and nylon non-mordanted. The dye up-take (K/S), color (L*a*b*), and color differences (△E) were measured with a colorimeter, and the number of bacteria present in the dyed fabrics were determined using Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumonia as strains. The results are as follows: First, the optimal dyeing conditions for man-made fibers dyed with gallnut are 60 minutes of dyeing time and a 80℃ dyeing temperature. Second, gallnut dye is most effective on soybean fiber and then, in descending order of effectiveness, on nylon, rayon, tencel, and tencel blended fabric. This means that dyeing properties of nitrogen containing fibers are excellent when using gallnut. Third, all man-made fibers are dyed brown with gallnut. This implies dyeing possibility of man-made fibers about gallnut dye, so development and supply of natural dyed goods of man-made fibers can be increased. Fourth, in all man-made fibers dyed with gallnut extract, both Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumonia show 99.9% reduction ratios of fungistasis, which indicate antimicrobial activity. Therefore, safe, functional, man-made materials can be developed to relieve symptoms from and treat patients with skin ailments.

The introduction of natural dyes into modern dye houses is very promising green chemistry concept that should be popularized more to reduce the dependency of leather dyeing on some toxic and non-biodegradable synthetic dyes. In this study, the properties of dyeing of cochineal on cow leather were evaluated. The proper dyeing conditions were identified with dye uptake (K/S values) depending on the colorant concentration, dyeing duration, dyeing temperature, and dye bath pH. For the proper mordanting conditions, color changes for different mordants were observed as La*b* and H V/C values. Color fastness (light, rubbing, and dry cleaning) was also examined. Additionally, antibacterial properties and UV protection were examined. The results were as follows: The optimized dyeing conditions were 300% o.w.f., 40°C, 40 min., and pH 5. The cow leather color was red in the absence of mordanting, while it was red purple after being mordanted with Al and Cu, and purple mordanted with Fe. The K/S value of cow leathers increased in the order of the dyeing using AlK(SO4)2>CuSO4>FeSO4. The colorfastness to light and rubbing were reduced compared to original (untreated) cow leather. However dry cleaning fastness was very satisfactory, with a 4~5 rating. The dyed and pre-mordanting dyed cow leather showed excellent antibacterial properties.

This study is aimed to measure the physical colorimetric property according to three conditions, natural dyestuffs (Gardenia, Sappan wood, Lac, Gardenia blue, Mugwort, and Indigo), fabric types (cotton, silk), and presence of mordant (without, with), and then to evaluate the psychological sensibility. Also, to perform analysis of variance (ANOVA) to find out the differences of physical properties according to the three natural dyeing conditions, and to analyze the relationship between physical property and psychological property by Pearson's correlation analysis and then suggest the prediction model by regression analysis using SPSS program (ver. 21.0). Finally, to propose a certain sensibility image map of naturally dyed fabrics, MDS (Multidimensional Scaling) was used, and as a result, Gardenia dyed fabrics having the color sensibilities such as 'hard' and 'heavy' were suggested to evoke masculine image, and to evoke feminine image, Sappan wood and Lac having 'bright', 'transparent', 'soft' and 'light' sensibilities were suggested. Natural image might be induced by using 'subdued' Mugwort dyed fabrics, and active image might be induced by using 'showy' Indigo dyed fabric.

The purpose of this research is to revive the colors of combination dyeing and mixed dyeing with natural dyestuffs. The fabrics used were cotton and rayon. The natural dyestuffs used in this research were indigo, Phellodendron amurense, and Caesalpinia sappan. The effects of combination dyeing were as follows. First, all samples showed deeper colors. Second, according to the results of the surface K/S measurement, while the surface K/S of cotton was over 15, that of rayon was over 17. Third, the results of the light fastness measurement showed the superiority (by over grade 4) of all the samples, except in the case of rayon fiber sample no. 6 (which had been pre-dyed with indigo five times before being dyed with P. amurense once and then being dyed with C. sappan once). In the color fastness to washing measurement, all fibers showed superiority (by over grade 3~4). In addition, the color fastness to dry cleaning of all fibers was satisfactory or excellent (by over grade 3). Fourth, according to the results of the tensile strength measurement, it tended to decrease in the case of cotton and increase in the case of rayon. Fifth, the results of the density measurement showed that the density of cotton decreased by about 15~20% in the case of warp and 10% in the case of weft for all samples. The density of rayon decreased 20% in the case of warp for all samples and increased 30% in the case of weft for all samples.

본 연구에서는 현대 패션 산업에서 활용하는 색채 기획 프로세스에 기반하여 제주의 대표적인 천연 자원 추출물로 면직물을 염색하고 물리적 색채와 트렌드 색채감성을 분석하여 2016S/S 시즌을 목표로 천연염색 유․아동복 디자인을 위한 감성 색채 테마를 제안하고자 하였다. 제주의 전통 염색 자원인 풋감과 주요 농산물인 감귤, 해양식물인 감태를 각각 분말염료로 제조하고 단일 염색과 복합염색을 병행하여 다양한 색채를 면직물에 구현하고, 2016S/S 유행색을 중심으로 Pantone TPX에 매칭하여 시즌 유행색의 감성 이미지를 고려하여 천연염색 유․아동복 디자인 기획에 활용 할 수 있는 감성 색채 테마를 제안하였다. 연구 결과로서 제주 천연자원을 이용한 직물 염색 색채는 Purple Blue에서 Green Yellow에 이르는 색상과 pale, light grayish, soft, grayish, dull의 톤을 나타내었다. 이 중에서 38개의 천연염 색 색채가 인터컬러와 한국 CFT에서 제안한 2016S/S 유행색의 일부를 포함한 23종의 Pantone TPX에 매칭되었다. 매칭된 Pantone 색채들을 활용하여 세 가지 컬러웨이를 설정하고 각 컬러웨이의 색채들에 대한 주관적 감성 평가를 실시하여 컬러웨이 그룹별로 차별화되는 색채 감성을 추출하였다. 이 결과를 기반으로 최종적으로 2016S/S 유행색 테마에서 가지는 감성 이미지와 염색에 활용된 제주 천연자원의 고유 특성 및 유․아동복에의 적합성을 고려하여 ‘Serenity’와 ‘Juicy’, ‘Fancy’의 세 가지 색채 감성 테마를 제안하였다. 본 연구의 결과는 유행색의 감성에 기반한 색채 기획 프로세스가 확립되지 않은 천연염색 산업에서 활용할 수 있는 색채기획 가이드 라인을 제공함과 동시에, 제주의 지역 특화 천연염색 색채에서 도출될 수 있는 색채감성 테마를 제안하였다는 데에 의의가 있다.

In this study, the dyeing of silk fabric with Polygonum cuspidatum extracts was investigated. The contents of this study are as follows. First, the proper dyeing conditions were investigated by measuring the dye uptake (K/S value) that depended on the dyeing conditions when silk fabric was dyed with Polygonum cuspidatum extract. Second, the brightness (L), hue, and chroma differences that appear after mordanting with Al, Cu and Fe were investigated by measuring the CIELAB and Munsell values. And third, the colorfastness and antibacterial property were measured. When the silk fabric was dyed with Polygonum cuspidatum extract, the proper dyeing conditions were a colorant concentration of 90% v/v, a dyeing of time 100 minutes, a dyeing temperature of 70℃, and a dyeing of pH 3. In mordanting methods, the dyeabilities of post-mordanting were higher than those of premordanting. The hue value displayed yellow (Y) and yellow-red (YR) in cases of pre and post mordanting. The C value decreased by the mordanting of Polygonum cuspidatum extracts. Generally the colorfastness of mordanted fabrics was improved by mordanting. The dyed fabrics showed a 90.6% of Staphylococcus aureus reduction rate, and the dyed and mordanted fabrics showed 97.1% bacteria reduction rate. The dyed and mordanted fabrics showed above 90.5% Klebsiella pneumoniae reduction rate, and Cu mordant revealed the most effective bacterial reduction.

This research verified the usefulness and practicality of citrus peel extract as a natural dye. This study dyed cotton, silk, and cotton/mulberry fiber blended fabrics using citrus peel extract, and measured the dyeability and functional property to verify their usefulness and practicality. The dyeing affinity of the citrus peel extract was measured by dyeing under alkaline conditions to determine the temperature and time for optimal dyeing conditions of the solution. The results show that a temperature and time of 60℃ and 30 minutes were optimal for dyeing cotton fabrics with citrus peel extract, 50℃ and 60 minutes for silk fabrics, and 60℃ and 60 minutes for cotton/mulberry fiber blended fabrics, respectively. In addition the results of measuring the color fastness of the cotton, silk, and cotton/mulberry fiber blended fabrics dyed with the citrus peel extract show that the color fastness was superior for washing, friction, sweat, and water. However, the color fastness for sunlight appeared to be slightly weak. In addition, it was found that fabric dyed with the citrus peel extract showed partial antimicrobial properties. The antimicrobial property appeared the greatest in the silk fabric. The cotton/mulberry fiber blended fabrics had 90% or more Staphylococcus aureus present, but the antimicrobial properties were not high in the cotton fabric. Additionally, the heavy metal content, which is harmful to the human body, appeared to be lower than standard figures, so the dye was found to be innocuous to humans. Therefore, when the results of this study are put together, citrus peel extract is sufficiently useful and practical as an ingredient for a natural dye. Moreover, there is ample possibility to develop citrus peel dyed fabrics as environmentally friendly fashion materials.

The fabric, 100% Silk, was dyed with Atractylodes japonica extract solution. The effects of concentration of extracts (colorant), temperature of dyeing, time of dyeing and pH of dye bath were studied. As the concentration of extracts increased, color strength (K/S value) increased progressively. The K/S values increased with raising temperature, time and proper conditions were 80℃ and 80 minutes. Maximum K/S value was obtained at pH 3. The K/S values of mordanted fabrics were increased with increasing mordant concentration up to specific values. Surface color of dyed and mordanted fabrics were yellowish. Light color fastness of fabric with mordanting was fairly good 3/4 rating. The mordanted silk fabrics showed excellent antibacterial activity. The silk fabric dyed with Atractylodes japonica extract showed a superior UV protective property.

This study analyzes and compares Hanji made with loess to Hanji made with kaolin, two yellow-based inorganic pigments, in terms of its physical properties, optical properties, and color fastness to light with the aim of using it as a fashion material. Hanji made by adding inorganic pigments showed an approximately 20% retention ratio on average. This figure was similar to those of loess and kaolin. Physical properties were analyzed, with the following results. A higher amount of additives lowered the apparent density and increased thickness and bulk. In general, inorganic pigment-added Hanji had lower tensile strength, bursting strength, and folding endurance compared to non-additive Hanji. The analysis of optical properties showed a lower brightness index for Hanji made with inorganic pigments compared to non-additive Hanji. When comparing the two inorganic pigments, the brightness of Hanji made with kaolin was higher. Regarding color fastness to light, loess showed level 4 and kaolin showed level 5 when 25% inorganic pigments on pulp were added to Hanji. Thus, Hanji made by adding inorganic pigments during the manufacturing process may perform well as materials for fashion because the additives enhanced both the color fastness to light and the bulk while maintaining the strength. In addition, Hanji dyed with inorganic pigments may have the potential to serve as materials for the fashion industry while still retaining the characteristics of Hanji.

The purpose of this study is to compare the purchase intention on naturally dyed clothing between Korea and the US. As independent variables that affect the purchase intention, benefits that consumers seek when purchasing naturally dyed clothing, especially for fabric materials, and attitudes towards naturally dyed clothing were selected. A quantitative research method with a survey was employed. 160 data from Korea and 180 data from the US were used for the analysis. The convenience sampling method (i.e., college female students) was used. Descriptive statistics, factor analysis, t-test and regression analysis were employed to test the differences in purchase intention, fabric benefit sought, and the attitudes. The fabric benefit sought selected for this study includes eco-friendliness, uniqueness, aesthetic, comfort and quality. The attitude toward naturally dyed clothing was categorized as an emotional and a cognitive attitude. The results show the significant differences in the fabric benefit sought depending on nationality, major and experiences in natural dyeing. Significant differences were found in of the attitude toward naturally dyed clothing among the nationalities and the experience types in natural dyeing. In addition, there were significant differences in purchase intention toward naturally dyed clothing between Korean and the US participants, and countries show different fabric benefits and attitudes which influenced participants' purchase intention. The results of this study suggest an appropriate fabric planning for environment-friendly fashion products for both countries.

The natural dyeing of silk fabric with Thuja orientalis extract was investigated. The proper colorant concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and pH for the dyeing of silk fabric with Thuja orientalis extract were 100% v/v, 80℃, 80 minutes and pH 3, respectively. In various mordanted methods, the K/S values of mordanted methods were higher than those of unmordanted methods with increasing mordant concentration. Light colorfastness and washing colorfastness of Cu or Fe mordanted silk fabric was improved by mordanting. The antibacterial properties of dyed and mordanted silk fabric showed a high reduction rate, and Thuja orientalis extract was showed effective bacterial reduction. The dyed and mordanted fabric with Thuja orientalis extract showed a superior ultraviolet protection property.

This study dyed rayon fabric using loess as a natural colorant. To obtain the optimal dyeing conditions, various dyeing conditions were examined (temperature, pH, time, and concentration). The color fastness was evaluated using standard washing and rubbing fastness tests. The results were as follows: The loess powder particle size ranged from 0.4 to 1.7 ㎛with a distribution range of 1.1 to 1.4 ㎛, representing a fine and uniform manufactured loess powder. The loess component analysis showed a large amount of silicon dioxide and aluminum oxide. TheFT-IR spectra showed that the ammonium group in the rayon fabric produced N-H banding at 1,540 ㎝-1 . The highest K/S value for the rayon fabric was obtained when the pH was 8.0, and this value increased rapidly with a longer dyeing time and when increasing the loess concentration to 30% (w/v). Pre-treatment with a soybean solution produced the highest K/S value for the rayon fabric with a loess concentration of 30% (w/v). The SEM analysis showed a higher amount of loess adhered to the rayon fabric surface when increasing the loess concentration. However, pre-treatment with a cationic agent and soybean solution resulted in a much higher attachment of loess to the fabric surface. Thus, the experimental results showed that using a cationized fabric and pre-treatment with a soybean solution are more effective when dyeing rayon fabric with loess than when using only loess.

본 논문은 천연염색에서 각 염료의 혼합 염색에 따른 발색 재현 기술을 개바람으로써 다양한 천연 염료를 사용한 혼한 염색의 결과에 대한 발색 시뮬레이터의 개발에 기여하고자 한다. 천연 염색을 위한 염료로는 쪽과 홍화를 사용하였으며 염색을 위한 직물로는 모시를 이용하였다. 쪽 및 홍화의 반복 염색을 통해 염색된 직물의 분광 반사율을 모델링하고 이로부터 혼합 염색에 대한 결과를 예측하는 알고리즘을 제안하였다. 즉, 단일 염료에 대한 직물의 분광 반사율을 추정하기 위해서 각 염료별로, 염색횟수에 따른 감쇄 계수를 계산하여 분광반사율의 변화를 예측하였으며 이를 바탕으로 염료별로 계산한 감쇄 계수의 1차 선형 조합으로 복합 염색된 직물의 분광반사율을 추정하였다. 제안된 방법의 성능평가를 위해 쪽과 홍화로 혼합 염색한 실제 시료와 제안한 방법으로 예측한 시료의 영상에 대하여 정량적인 색차평가를 수행하였다. 결과, 평균 색차 8 미만의 수준에서 복합 염색의 발색을 예측 할 수 있음을 확인하였다.

본 연구에서는 검정팥 종피에 함유된 천연색소에 대한 연구의 일환으로, 천연염료로서의 적용을 위해 염색조건 즉 염색온도, 염색시간, 염색 pH, 욕비에 따른 K/S 값을 측정하여 적정 염색조건을 설정하고, 여러 매염제를 적용하여 색상변화에 미치는 영향 및 견뢰도를 측정하여 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 1. pH에 따른 염색성에서는 견직물의 경우 pH 4에서 가장 염착량이 많았고, 면직물의 경우에는 주어진 범위 내에서 는 pH가 높을수록 염착량이 많았다. 2. 염색온도와 시간에 따른 염색성은, 견직물의 경우, 염색온도 와 에서는 전반적으로 염착량이 낮고 시간에 따른 염착량의 차이도 크지 않았으나 염색온도 에서는 시간이 경과할수록 K/S 값이 크게 나타났다. 면직물의 경우도 견직물과 비슷한 결과로 온도가 높아질수록 염색시간이 경과될수록 K/S 값이 크게 나타났다. 3. 견직물에 대한 매염제 종류별 표면색의 변화에서는 Fe 매염포만 YRY 로 변화되었을 뿐 다른 매염제에서는 매염후에도 색상 변화는 크지 않았다. Sn 매염과 Ti 매염포는 무 매염포 보다 값이 상승하였으나 나머지 매염제는 값이 크게 감소되었다. 면직물에 대한 표면색의 변화는 견직물에서와 같은 경향으로 나타났으며, 값에 있어서는 견직물과 다르게 Ni 매염포만 무매염포보다 값이 크게 나타났다. 4. 매염처리 전 견직물의 일광 견뢰도는 무매염이 4~6등급, Al 처리포는 4~5등급, Cu와 Sn은 3~4등급으로 나타났고 Fe는 2~3등급으로 가장 낮게 나타났으며, 세탁견뢰도에서는 무매염 2등급, 매염제 처리포는 전부 2내지 3등급으로 나타났다. 무매염 면직물의 일광견뢰도는 1~2등급, Fe 매염은 2~3등급, Cu 2등급 Al과 Sn은 1~2등급으로 매염처리에 의해 전혀 개선되지 않았으며, 세탁견뢰도의 경우 Cu매염이 4등급으로 양호하게 나타났으며 무매염, Al, Sn과 Fe는 3등급으로 나타났다.

본 연구에서는 미생물에서 추출한 천연 색소로 염색한 직물의 색채특성을 고찰하고 염색 직물의 색채감성에 영향을 미치는 색채감각과 물리적 색채특성을 규명하고자 하였다. 미생물 Zooshikellar에서 추출한 prodiginine 색소를 이용하여 적자색으로 염색된 면, 견, 모, 나일론 직물에 대하여 20대 대학생 남녀 40명을 대상으로 의미미분법을 이용한 색채감각 및 감성을 평가하였다. 미생물 prodiginine 색소로 염색한 직물의 색채감성요인은 '유쾌성', '품위성', '독특성', '편안성' 등 4개 요인으로 분류되었는데, 이 중 '유쾌성' 요인이 미생물 색소로 염색한 직물의 대표적인 색채감성요인이라는 것을 알 수 있었다. 미생물 prodiginine 색소로 염색한 직물 색채의 명도 L*은 '유쾌성' 요인과 유의한 관계를, 채도인 C*는 색채감성요인 모두와 유의한 관련성을 보였으며, a*와 b* 의 물리적 색채변인 또한 색채감성요인에 유의한 영향을 끼쳤다. 또한 색채감각과 색채감성요인은 부분적으로 유의한 관련성을 보였다. 미생물 prodiginine 색소로 염색한 직물의 색채감성, 색채특성 및 색채감각 중에서 색상 선호도를 예측해 주는 변인은 '유쾌성'과 '독특성'을 포함한 색채감성임을 알 수 있었다.