피영극(皮影戏)은 중국 전통 민속예술로서, 2011년 유네스코 세계인류 무형문화유산으로 등재 된 연극이다. 본 연구는 중국 북부지역의 산시성의 전문서적에 수록된 캐릭터 조각 및 색채, 문양을 중심으 로 분석한 결과 산시성(山西省)의 피영극은 두 종류로, 산시성 북부의 ‘효의(孝义)’는 주로 『봉신연의(封 神演义)』의 스토리 인물 캐릭터로 피영극의 주요 특징은 음각과 양각 조각의 사용과 색채가 어두우며, 종 이스크린의 배경을 사용한다. 산시성 남부의 ‘후마(侯马)’ 피영극은 산시성의 전통 연극인 ‘진극(晋剧)’의 영향을 받았으며 캐릭터의 특징은 생(生), 단(旦), 정(净), 추(丑) 4가지 역할로 망사스크린의 배경을 사용 한다. 피영극은 송나라, 명나라, 청나라 시대의 의상과 신앙, 생활습관, 신분, 사회제도 및 유교문화 등을 음각과 양각의 조형적인 요소를 사용하여 표현하며, 전통적인 오행색(五行色)으로 색채를 연출한다. 본 연 구는 산시성 피영극의 조형예술의 특성 이해 및 전통 공예의 특징 유지와 애니메이션, 영화 등 혁신적 요소 를 더하여 아동 청소년들에게 피영극 문화의 전통적 가치를 전파와 계승 발전을 기대해 본다.
The interlacing technique has a long history of use as a means of creative expression and persists in modern society to satisfy the individual pursuit of pastimes. This method has the developmental potential to create new trends in the future. Interlacing techniques (e.g., basketry, plaiting, braiding, and knotting) are closely related to plastic arts fields, architecture, art, and industrial design where the various interlacing practices are applied. This research uses case analysis to study the types of expression found in the formative art field wherein the interlacing technique is applied. Results reveal several expressions, including optical illusion visual type, relief surface type, porous perspective type, and object borrowing type, all of which appeared in fashion bags. The aesthetic formativeness, which appeared in the fashion bags that applied interlacing techniques, was then classified according to geometric formative beauty in a process based on rules and order. Nature-friendly formative beauty reflecting handicraft locality and omnidirectional formative beauty by disordered deconstruction and heterogeneous combination were determined. The use of interlacing techniques that show creative, unique combinations and variations is expected to inspire the development and application of bag design that suits individual and original modern fashion trends. One limitation of this thesis is that it only studied cases appearing in modern fashion bags.
This study aims to analyze the traditional attire of four ethnic minority groups in Northeastern China: Daur, Ewenki, Oroqen, and Hezhen, considering their natural environment, lifestyles, and cultural influences. A literature review of academic papers, books, and online resources was conducted, along with indirect investigations through artifacts. The Daur people, being equestrian, have garments with deep slits, vibrant colors, and elaborate decorations. The Ewenki people wear clothes made of fabric in the summer and primarily deer skin in the winter, and their clothing is simple and not flashy. The Oroqen people’s clothing typically has slits at the front, back, or on both sides, and they wear a waist belt. The Hezhen people, an ethnic group that primarily hunts and fishes, wear two-piece clothing with a hip-length top and pants or other fur-trimmed garments. All groups incorporate symbolic patterns influenced by Shamanism, along with animal headgear and leather shoes. We observed that the traditional costumes of ethnic minority groups in Northeastern China share many commonalities in form, but there are detailed differences in material, shape, color, and decoration due to unique geographical and climatic characteristics as well as differences in livelihood. Additionally, the structure of clothing varies depending on each tribe’s shamanistic practices and lifestyle.
This study was aimed at examining the characteristics of women’s blue denim on the basis of design elements to provide fundamental data for fashion majors and fashion designers. Seven design elements were selected from previous studies to compare them with the following characteristics of blue denim: color (washing, dyeing), ornamentation (trimming, detailing, painting, and printing), and form modification, tearing, and ripping). Data from 1,520 photographs of the 2019 S/S to the 2023–24 F/W collections were collected through overlapping checks. The data were then subjected to frequency analysis using the Statistical Package for the Social Sciences (version 26). The results are as follows: The most frequent design method used in producing the denim items in our sample was washing, followed by modification, tearing, and ripping and detailing. The greatest change in denim design occurred in 2023, and more design element changes were observed in the F/W season than in the S/S season. Washing was used four times or more frequently than dyeing, while detailing was employed approximately 2 times more often than trimming. With respect to form, the most common approach was modification, followed by tearing and ripping.
본 연구는 수염에 대한 호감도 측정을 위해 선호 및 비선호 선택지와 함께 호감/비호감 사유 판단 문항 및 인구통계학적 특성 문항을 제시한 설문지의 최종 응답 300부를 표본으로 하여 인구통계학적 특성을 알기 위하여 빈도분석을 하였고, 선호도의 차이를 분석하기 위하여 Cross-Tab(교차분석) 분석을 거쳐 T-test와 일원 분산분석을 하였다. 연구 결과, 남성의 수염 조형별 선호도 및 비 선호도에는 차이가 있었으며, 그 차이 수준은 남녀 집단 및 연령대 집단 간에 통계적 유의성을 보였다. 추가로, 각 집단 범주마 다 수염 조형별 호감/비호감 판단 사유에서도 차이를 보이는 것으로 나타났다. 또한, 남성의 수염 조형에 따른 선호도와 비 선호도는 차이가 있으며, 그 판단 근거인 호감도와 비호감도의 주된 이유에서도 지각자 특성별로 다양한 차이가 있음을 확인하였다. 이러한 결과를 통해 이용 및 미용 학문 연구에 시사점을 제시 하였다.
This research measured the change in mechanical characteristics of a sample obtained by finishing a metal coating to an engineering plastic manufactured using a 3D printer to satisfy both lightweight and quality characteristics. High-Temp material, which can be applied to space thermal environments with large temperature fluctuations, was applied as the engineering plastic material, and Stereolithography(SLA) method, which has relatively higher precision than Fused Film Fabrication(FFF) method, was selected as the manufacturing method. Electroless & electroplating were performed by metal coating on the surface to satisfy the characteristics of products requiring electrical conductivity. Tensile and bending tests were conducted to verify a change in the mechanical characteristics of a sample completed with a metal coating, and an adhesion test of the metal coating was also added.
This study aims to use Art brut works—the artwork of the socially underprivileged and alienated—to influence social roles in fashion design, employing a formative expression method to promote social acceptance of diversity in the industry. The research method involved investigating Art brut’s concept and evolution in domestic and foreign literature and previous studies. The formative characteristics of the movement were derived by analyzing the works of Art brut artist Johann Hauser. One hundred and twenty images of Johann’s work were collected through online sources like the Gugging Museum’s website, Christian Berst Gallery’s website were developed as fashion design using the CLO 3D program. The formative characteristics of Johann’s works appeared to be transparent overlapping, divisional decorativeness emphasized simplicity, and vibrant chromaticity. Based on this analysis, the results of the 3D digital fashion designs were as follows. First, the characteristics of the atypical objects and figures in Johann’s works were applied to the design silhouette, revealing a uniquely beautiful form. Second, Johann used a method in which numerous line shapes overlap and fill the area. The point of connecting the work is expressed as a graphic pattern by decorating the lines of the hem and hem of the garment with piping or attaching overlapping straps on top of pants and dresses. Third, the combination of overlapping colors used in Johann’s work is a color block design of fashion, which utilizes the formative fun.
The effect of the laser beam diameter on the microstructure and hardness of 17-4 PH stainless steel manufactured via the directed energy deposition process is investigated. The pore size and area fraction are much lower using a laser beam diameter of 1.0 mm compared with those observed using a laser beam diameter of 1.8 mm. Additionally, using a relatively larger beam diameter results in pores in the form of incomplete melting. Martensite and retained austenite are observed under both conditions. A smaller width of the weld track and overlapping area are observed in the sample fabricated with a 1.0 mm beam diameter. This difference appears to be mainly caused by the energy density based on the variation in the beam diameter. The sample prepared with a beam diameter of 1.0 mm had a higher hardness near the substrate than that prepared with a 1.8 mm beam diameter, which may be influenced by the degree of melt mixing between the 17-4 PH metal powder and carbon steel substrate.
본 글은 선조 17년(1584)과 18년(1585)에 개최된 기영연(耆英宴)을 그림으로 기록한 <선조조기영회도(宣祖朝耆英會圖)>를 중심으로 16세기 사연용(賜宴用) 화준(花樽)과 주 준(酒樽)의 조형 특징을 구명하고, 사연에 있어서 두 종류 준(樽)의 진설 방식과 및 진설 의 미를 고찰하였다. 연회에 등장하는 여러 기물 가운데 준화(樽花)를 꽂기 위한 화준(花樽)과 선온(宣醞)을 담았을 것으로 보이는 주준(酒樽)은 16세기 관요에서 제작된 좋은 품질의 백 자․청화백자로 추정된다. 사연용 화준은 조선 전기 국가 의례서(儀禮書) 및 조선 후기 궁 중연(宮中宴) 관련 기록에서 확인되는 호(壺)와 재질․기형․품질에서 크게 다르지 않았을 것이다. 그러나 장식에 있어서 문양을 생략하거나 청화(靑畵) 문양이 장식되었을 경우 소재 는 대나무․매화․화당초문 등 화훼문(花卉文) 계통을 채택함으로써, 사연의 설행(設行) 목적을 투영하는 동시에 궁중연 용준(龍樽)과 차별화하였을 가능성이 있다. <선조조기영회도> 에 묘사된 주준용 뚜껑은 입구의 가장자리가 위로 살짝 들려 있는 특징에 기인하여 연엽(蓮 葉)형 뚜껑으로 명명하였다. 연엽형 뚜껑은 국가 의례용기, 가마터 출토품, 전세품 등에서도 공통으로 확인되고 있는 만큼, 뚜껑의 사용처와 용도에는 왕실 및 사연용 주준이 포함되었을 것이다. 16세기 <선조조기영회도>의 화준․주준 진설 방식과 사연도(賜宴圖) 속 진설 방식 을 종합해보면, 16세기 화준은 다양하고 유연한 방식으로 진설 되지만, 주준의 경우 획일화 되고 고정된 진설 방식을 보인다. 화준․주준의 진설 방식은 연회의 주최자인 왕의 교체, 임 진왜란으로 인한 제작 여건 및 관련 기록 소실로 인한 고증의 어려움 등으로 인하여 17세기 이후 점차 변하였을 것이다. 따라서 16세기 사연용 화준․주준의 진설 방식은 18세기 이후 양상과는 상반되었을 것으로 추정된다. 더불어 16세기 기영연에 화준․주준이 모두 진설 되 었다는 사실은 이 연회가 문헌에 기록된 바와 같이 우대된 사연임을 증명하는 또 하나의 근 거 자료로 활용될 수 있을 것으로 생각한다.
중국 랴오닝성 조양시 카좌지역은 자사문화가 농후하고 역사가 유구하며 풍부한 자사광물자원과 심원한 자사역사를 갖고있으며 북방 자사의 대표이기도 하다. 현지의 지역문화는 당대 자사기물의 조형에 중요한 영향을 주었으며 카좌지역의 자사공 예대사는 현지의 우수한 문화유물을 계승한 기초에서 자사기물의 조형면에서 이론과 실천상의 끊임없는 탐색을 하였다. 이것은 오랜 제작공예와 현대조형예술이 완벽하게 결합되여 카좌 지방특색을 띤 자사기물조형을 형성하였다. 비록 카좌자사산업의 발전은 비교적 늦었지만 그 자사산업의 기원은 일찍 홍산문화시기로 거슬러올라갈수 있다. 유구한 역사적배경으로 하여 카좌자사기물의 조형은 일정한 연구가치가 있다. 전체 문장은 주로 두개 방면으로 논술하였다. 제1 부분에서는 카좌지역의 각 시기 자사의 발전배경에 대해 간략하게 소개한다. 제2 부분은 카좌 현지 문화유물이 카좌자사 기물의 조 형에 준 영향을 주요내용으로 한다. 각 시기 당지의 문화유물 을 주요원소로 하여 당대의 카좌자사기물조형에서 응용한 과정을 분석하여 카좌지역의 대표성을 띤 자사기물조형을 형성하였다. 또한 문물의 역사와 조형 방면에 대해 개술하고 조형요소를 응용한 자사기물이 대표하는 의의와 존재가치에 대해 깊이 있는 분석을 진행하였다. 그리고 몽골족을 주체로 한 현지 민족문화가 카좌자사 기물조형에 준 영향을 분석하였으며 몽골족 특유의 옷고름 장식, 민족악기, 건축풍격 등 조형요소를 카좌 당대의 자사기물 조형에 응용하였다. 이는 카좌자사공예의 전시일뿐만아니라 몽골족의 민족특색을 전승하는 중요한 담체로서 자사공예와 민족문화가 완벽하게 융합되었다.
The purpose of this study is to develop a knitwear design with the potential for practical use through a combination of science and design by examining the concept and formative characteristics of fractal geometry and applying them to the development of 3D virtual clothing knitwear design. This study produced five main conclusions. First, the sub-concepts of “Repeatability,” “Scale variability,” and “complexity,” which are based on self-similarity, appear together with simple regularity in the fractal formative characteristics shown in fashion design. Second, fashion fields apply fractal geometry in three-dimensional surface textures and optical textile patterns as a method of expression. Third, it was confirmed that various expressions can be created with fractal patterns by using the SDS-ONE APEX 3-4 design system; moreover, fractal patterns are a suitable design source for the development of Jacquard knitwear patterns. Fourth, in the development of knitted jacquard fractal patterns, by arranging the patterns in perspective, the effect of emphasizing or reducing the human body by optical illusion was shown. Fifth, a knit Jacquard structure with a pattern that exhibits fractal modeling characteristics and applying it to a 3D virtual clothing sample design reduces the time required for sample production while expanding the knit design’s expression area and reducing costs. Thus, the clothing sample confirmed the effectiveness of practical knitwear design development.
In this study, AlSi10Mg powders with average diameters of 44 μm are additively manufactured into bulk samples using a selective laser melting (SLM) process. Post-heat treatment to reduce residual stress in the as-synthesized sample is performed at different temperatures. From the results of a tensile test, as the heat-treatment temperature increases from 270 to 320oC, strength decreases while elongation significantly increases up to 13% at 320oC. The microstructures and tensile properties of the two heat-treated samples at 290 and 320oC, respectively, are characterized and compared to those of the as-synthesized samples. Interestingly, the Si-rich phases that network in the as-synthesized state are discontinuously separated, and the size of the particle-shaped Si phases becomes large and spherical as the heat-treatment temperature increases. Due to these morphological changes of Si-rich phases, the reduction in tensile strengths and increase in elongations, respectively, can be obtained by the post-heat treatment process. These results provide fundamental information for the practical applications of AlSi10Mg parts fabricated by SLM.
The purpose of this study is to provide ideas for the development of bag design by analyzing the expression types and aesthetic formativeness of modern bag design using tassels and fringe given the newtro trend pursuing analog sensitivity in modern society. The methods and scope of this study are as follows. First, the related literature and internet data were reviewed in order to examine the expression types and characteristics of the bags of the West and East. Next, the definition and characteristics of tassel and fringe decoration in terms of the history of clothing were analyzed. Finally, the expression types and aesthetic formativeness of tassels and fringe were derived through the analysis of modern bag design shown in the fashion collections since 2010. The bags decorated with the tassels and fringe bring a variety of visual effects depending on the attachment position, direction and material composition, concentrating the gaze and radiating original style. In this study, the expression of tassels and fringe in modern bag design was classified into three types: surface decoration, shape variability, and object combination. Next, the aesthetic formativeness of modern bag design using tassels and fringe as decorative elements appeared through the mixture of heterogeneous materials and playfulness through imagination, exaggeration through extension of length and volume, and retro characteristics through reinterpretation of tradition. This study is expected to contribute to creative ideas of modern bag design which requires a global sense, which has been used in various cultures for a long time.
페르시아 전쟁(기원전 490-479년)을 시작으로 알렉산드로스 대왕의 죽음(기원전 323년) 에 이르기까지 크고 작은 전투와 전쟁이 끊임없이 벌어졌던 그리스의 전장에 세워진 트로파이온에는 고전기 그리스인들의 전쟁과 승리에 대한 관념이 담겨있다. 그리스의 초기 트로파이온은 전장에 전쟁의 승패가 결정된 직후에 세워진다는 특징을 갖는다. 그리고 그것을 세움으로써 승자는 신들에 대한 감사를 표현하고 미래의 전투에 대한 승리를 담보하고자 하였다. 동시에 이것은 전우들과 승리의 기억을 공유하고, 적군에게는 패배를 시각적으로 각인시킴으로써 그들의 잠재적인 도발의 의지를 상실하게 만드는 마지막 전략이기도 하였다. 본 연구에서 살펴본 기원전 5세기의 도기들과 아테나 니케 신전의 난간을 장식한 부조는 그러한 전술의 기록이다.
Additive manufacturing (AM) is a highly innovative method for joining dissimilar materials for industrial applications. In the present work, AM of STS630 and Ti-6Al-4V powder alloys on medium entropy alloys (MEAs) NiCrCo and NiCrCoMn is studied. The STS630 and Ti64 powders are deposited on the MEAs. Joint delamination and cracks are observed after the deposition of Ti64 on the MEAs, whereas the deposition of STS630 on the MEAs is successful, without any cracks and joint delamination. The microstructure around the fusion zone interface is characterized by scanning electron microscopy and X-ray diffraction. Intermetallic compounds are formed at the interfacial regions of MEA-Ti64 samples. In addition, Vicker’s hardness value increased dramatically at the joint interface between MEAs and Ti-6Al-4V compared to that between MEAs and STS630. This result is attributed to the brittle nature of the joint, which can lead to a decrease in the joint strength.
The microstructure and mechanical characteristics of SUS630 specimens fabricated using the direct energy deposition (DED) process are investigated. In DED, several process parameters such as laser scan speed, chamber gas flow, powder carrier gas flow, and powder feed rate are kept fixed; the laser power is changed as 150 W, 180 W, and 210 W. As the laser power increases, the surface becomes smooth, the thickness uniformity improves, and the size and number of pores decreases. With the increase in laser power, the hardness deviation decreases and the average hardness increases. The microstructure of the material is columnar; pores are formed preferentially along the columnar interface. The lath-martensite phase governs the overall microstructure. The volumetric fraction of the retained austenite phase is measured to increase with the increase of laser input power.
In this study, two types of SKD61 tool-steel samples are built by a selective laser melting (SLM) process using the different laser scan speeds. The characteristics of two kinds of SKD61 tool-steel powders used in the SLM process are evaluated. Commercial SKD61 tool-steel power has a flowability of 16.68 sec/50 g and its Hausner ratio is calculated to be 1.25 by apparent and tapped density. Also, the fabricated SKD61 tool steel powder fabricated by a gas atomization process has a flowability of 21.3 sec/50 g and its Hausner ratio is calculated to be 1.18. Therefore, we confirmed that the two powders used in this study have excellent flowability. Samples are fabricated to measure mechanical properties. The highest densities of the SKD61 tool-steel samples, fabricated under the same conditions, are 7.734 g/cm³ (using commercial SKD61 powder) and 7.652 g/cm3 (using fabricated SKD61 powder), measured with Archimedes method. Hardness is measured by Rockwell hardness testing equipment 5 times and the highest hardnesses of the samples are 54.56 HRC (commercial powder) and 52.62 HRC (fabricated powder). Also, the measured tensile strengths are approximately 1,721 MPa (commercial SKD61 powder) and 1,552 MPa (fabricated SKD61 powder), respectively.
In this study, STS316L powders prepared by gas atomization are used to manufacture bulk structures with dimensions of 10 × 10 × 10 mm3 using selective laser melting (SLM). The microstructures and hardness of the fabricated 316L stainless steel has been investigated with the laser beam overlap varied from 10% to 70%. The microstructures of the fabricated STS316L samples show a decrease in the balling and satellite of powders introducing defect in the bulk samples and the porosity caused by the gap between the molten metal pools disappearing as the overlap ratio increases, whereas a low overlap ratio results in significant balling and a large amount of isolated powders due to the increased gap between the melt pools. Furthermore, the highest value in Vickers hardness is obtained for the sample fabricated by 30% overlapped laser beams. These results show that the overlap ratio of laser beams in the SLM process should be considered as an important process parameter.
A cold-work tool steel powder is used to fabricate 3-dimensional objects by selective laser melting using a high-pressure gas atomization process. The spherical powder particles form continuous carbide networks among the austenite matrix and its decomposition products. The carbides comprise Nb-rich MC and Mo-rich M2C. In the SLM process, the process parameters such as the laser power (90 W), layer thickness (25 μm), and hatch spacing (80 μm) are kept fixed, while the scan speed is changed from 50 mm/s to 4000 mm/s. At a low scan speed of 50 mm/s, spherical cavities develop due to over melting, while they are substantially reduced on increasing the speed to 2000 mm/s. The carbide network spacing decreases with increasing speed. At an excessively high speed of 4000 mm/s, long and irregularly shaped cavities are developed due to incomplete melting. The influence of the scan pattern is examined, for which 1 × 1 mm2 blocks constituting a processing layer are irradiated in a random sequence. This island-type pattern exhibits the same effect as that of a low scan speed. Post processing of an object using hot isostatic pressing leads to a great reduction in the porosity but causes coarsening of the microstructure.