The aim of this study was to analyze the design characteristics of Chinese fashion designer Feng Chen Wang and interpret their implicit meaning from a neo-deconstruction perspective. A review of domestic and foreign literature, outlined the development of deconstruction and neo-deconstruction, with neo-deconstruction’s aesthetic features termed ‘traditional fusion’, ‘positive playfulness’, ‘open communication’, and ‘multiple inclusiveness’. These features informed an analysis of Feng Chen Wang’s fashion design. Four key findings emerged. First, ‘traditional fusion’ combines traditional Chinese colors, items, handicrafts, and patterns with modern design to break down boundaries between past and modern, tradition and fashion. Second, ‘positive playfulness’ promotes creativity and fun, using bright colors, exaggerated accessories, and playing withthe composition of traditional clothes to create a positive atmosphere. Third, ‘open communication’ emphasizes design that combines practicality and creativity in response to consumer needs, incorporating the thoughts arising from individual experiences and interest in social phenomena. Fourth, ‘multiple inclusiveness’ breaks down boundaries of sexuality, hierarchy, and body shape, embracing various ideas of beauty and respecting uniqueness through design that are seen as available to all. Using a neo-deconstruction perspective, Feng Chen Wang provides novel product planning ideas for Chinese fashion brands and reflects the values and meaning of modern design pursued by contemporary Chinese designers.
사람들은 달콤하고 황홀한 사랑, 이것을 낭만적 사랑이라고 이름하여 영원히 그 사랑 속에 머물고 싶어한다. 이것은 신화처럼 우리의 무의식에 자리잡고 있다. 기쁘면서도 고통스러운 양가적인 속성을 가진 사랑은 인간의 역사 이래로 화두였고 조선 시대 「주생전」에도 서사되고 있다. 따라서 본고는 주생, 배도, 선화의 사랑을 낭만적 사랑으로 바라보고 이들의 사랑이 해체된 이유와 사랑의 구원을 살펴보았다. 주생과 배도, 선화는 삼각관계를 형성하여 결국은 비극에 빠지게 된다. 이들의 사랑은 만남부터 강렬했고 낭만적 사랑이 갖는 속성들을 내재하고 있다. 그러나 이들은 주생의 거짓과 기만으로 불행해졌다. 두 여인의 분노와 질투는 그들의 자아를 부재하게 했고, 지향점이 다른 조건부 사랑은 이들의 사랑을 해체시켰다. 또한 「주생전」은 사회적 장벽과 전쟁과 같은 세계의 불합리한 횡포에 항거할 수 없는 인간의 사랑은 얼마나 가볍고 연약한지를 보여주었다. 따라서 본고는 「주생전」을 차지하고 있는 상실 모티프를 극복하기 위해서는 용서하고 환대함으로 사랑의 구원을 이루어야 한다고 논의하였다.
This study explores the possibility of creating new experimental hanbok designs by accommodating the latest world fashion trends and the changing needs of consumers, in order to attempt to overcome the limitations of traditional Korean fashion design. To do so, We analyze works by contemporary Korean fashion designers to investigate current developments in Korean fashion design and to identify areas of improvement within hanbok design. The results show that most contemporary hanbok designs repeat stereotypes of traditional hanbok with minor modifications. So there arises a need to create new hanbok designs that are clearly distinct from traditional hanbok but also maintain its core features. To develop such designs, I apply the techniques of deconstruction fashion, which allow making experiments with form, composition, and materials use to realize new aesthetics. The use of CLO 3D fashion design software also proves to be very efficient for developing experimental designs. The study results make meaningful contributions to the development of virtual clothing and 3D fashion for hanbok, particularly as metaBUS, a cloud-based research synthesis platform, is rapidly gaining ground, and reality and virtual reality are increasingly mixed in everyday life. This attempt at 3D design of hanbok is expected to trigger more creative experimentation in hanbok design.
예이츠는 왜 아직도 많은 독자들과 학자들에게 흥미로울까? 왜 사람들 은 예이츠와 이우환과 사이 톰브리에 매료될까? 예이츠는 모던니스트 시기의 시인인 데도, 이우환과 사이 톰브리는 포스트모더니스 시기의 예술가들인데도? 이 논문은 이 흥미와 매혹의 원천이 무엇인지 알고자한다. 또 이 논문은 데리다를 보면서 그의 디콘 스트럭션-그가 텍스트를 어떻게 생각하고 읽는 지-이 나를 어떻게 작품들(이를테면 이 작품들은, 작가들은 디콘스트럭숀 미학을 알지 못했겠지만, 포스트모던 예술가들 사이 톰블리와 이우환이 만들었고 예이츠의 작품 일부는 디콘스트럭션의 미학으로 만들어 진 작품들이기 때문에)을 잘 읽을 수 있을까를 도울 것으로 생각한다. 또한 이 논문은 젊은 학자들에게 지나치게 나쁜 영향을 미치는 몇몇 저명학자들의 디콘스트럭션의 잘 못된 읽기와 실천을 지적하고자 한다. 이것은 가능하면 빨리 수정되어야 할 방향이다.
This study aims to develop a hanbok design method in response to recent changes in consumption trends that emphasize new aesthetic and cultural values, which contrast with the existing cultural order and repetitive normative styles in fashion designing. With this in mind, our study explores the main features of deconstruction fashion design as a theoretical guide for developing a methodology for deconstruction hanbok design, on the basis of which new, experimental and creative hanbok design works can be produced. To do this, we first investigate current trends in hanbok design and changing concepts of Korean fashion design through literature review of previous studies. Secondly, we explore deconstructionism and analyze its features to lay down the foundation for a post-modern approach in hanbok design. As the result of analysis, the main features of deconstruction fashion design are summarized as the following: 1) non-finishing, 2) decomposing and recomposing, 3) recycling, 4) transparent, 5) grunge, 6) flattening, and 7) exaggeration. Based on the identified core features of deconstruction fashion design, we develop a creative method of hanbok design in the context of modern Korean fashion design. Finally, we show five design outputs via a 3D digital fashion design process using the CLO3D software program.
So far, the academic community has not reached a consensus on the naming and categorization of the creation of Chinese writers. It has generally been carried out around “World Chinese Literature”, “Sinophone Literature” and “Ethnic Chinese Literature”. This is because of the different academic positions of scholars and the different emphasis of the issue. This also reflects the importance of the creation of Ethnic Chinese writers and the significance of the study of Chinese writers. When dealing with the historical resources of revolution, their themes always cannot judge the right and wrong of history, and the entanglement of real life. The writing of suffering is basically centered around these themes. This explains to some extent the dilemma facing Chinese contemporary literature. Whether Chinese contemporary literature can get rid of this predicament. This study takes Chinese writer Li Yan's Chinese version of “Daughters of the Red Land” as the research object. Through textual perusal and psychoanalysis, cultural analysis and other methodologies, this paper analyzes the ideological level of the novel and analyzes how Li Yan reflects on the history of the country as a life. Many years of intellectuals in North America, she has thoughts about Western culture. Li Yan’s double reflection is full of criticism, deconstruction and reconstruction consciousness, and analyzes the meaning of this consciousness.
질리언 웨어링(Gillian Wearing)은 개념적인 의미가 담긴 비디오 작업을 통해 ‘정체성’을 둘러싼 이슈를 자각하게 하였다. 특히 유성(有聲) 컬러 비디오 작업 <1 나누기 2 (혹은 하나 안의 둘) 2 into 1>는 한 가족 구성원 중 어머니와 쌍둥이 아들을 대상으로 인터뷰 한 것으로, 이 작업은 ‘립싱크’ 기법을 이용하여 화면에 나타난 대상의 모습과 귀로 듣게 되는 음성 사이의 간극으로 인하여 ‘정체성’ 개념의 복잡한 읽기 방식을 숙고하게 하였다. 웨어링의 작품에서 한 주체가 타자의 음성을 똑같이 따라 말하는 ‘더빙’, ‘립 싱크’ 기법은 감상자로 하여금 통합된 주체가 아닌 무엇인가가 구성 되어가는 주체, 혹 은 과정 중의 주체 개념을 환기시켰다. 정체성에 대한 고정된 인식을 깨뜨리는 웨어링의 <1 나누기 2(혹은 하나 안의 둘)>는 언어를 배우며 어머니의 욕망으로부터 분리되어 아이가 상상계에서 상징계로 이행하는 주체와 타자 개념과도 연결됨은 물론, 감상자로 하여금 자신과 타자와의 관계를 다시 보게 만들어 확고한 믿음이라는 시스템의 중심에 속해있는 모든 것들을 다시 보게끔 한다.
This paper studies the novels of two Indigenous Taiwanese writers; 《绝岛之咒》 wrtieen by Nakao Eki Pacidal, together with 〈失乐园〉 and 〈Matengen〉 written by Si-nan-Matengen. The paper studies these texts from three perspectives, which are the narrative features of myths and folk tales, space and time that appears the text. The two writers broke the standards of what the authors in the Indigenous Movement Generation created for aboriginal literature. Nakao Eki Pacidal broke the stereotype of the indigenous people shown in earlier texts. She also suggested that the indigenous people should not limit themselves as regressive people. Rather, she claims that they should open themselves up towards the globalized world and the diversified environment, and shape their own future through fusion of the aboriginal culture and the present. The sense of time shown in the texts of Si-nan-Matengen has future-oriented characteristics. She presents multidirectional problems that commercialization and protection policies of the aboriginal culture may bring. She suggests that we should have a broader view, going beyond the binary opposition between the indigenous people vs Han ethnics, and tradition vs modernity. By doing so, she suggests that the indigenous people and han ethnics coexist through cooperation.
The purpose of this study is to classify and analyze the deconstruction phenomena expressed in contemporary knit fashion design, and to analyze the inner meaning of deconstruction based on certain characteristics. As a method of study, literature data for theoretical backgrounds, prior studies, and internet data were analyzed. The scope of this study was restricted to knitwear published in the world’s four major collections (Milan, Paris, New York and London) from 2014 F/W to 2018 S/S. Based on prior studies, four concepts of deconstruction were derived: “Différeance”, “Intertextuality”, “Intermeaning of Meaning”, “Dis․De Phenomenon”. The results of the study were as follows: first, “Différeance” refers to a transcendence of time and space. These expressions are discursive, unrealistic, and convey freedom through intent that deviates from rules and norms. Second, “Intertextuality” indicates a mixture of different texts, such as styles, materials, and items. These expressions deliver novelty with amusement, and can be entertaining depending on audience expectations. Third, “Intermeaning of Meaning” is accidental category - depending on how the wearer wears the clothing. -; accordingly, free and spontaneous creativity is an emerging trend in fashion. Fourth, the clothing was expressed in deformed and distorted form by the construction and destruction of the structure, a technique we describe as the “Dis․De Phenomenon”. In this concept, the sense of free design of young emotion appears along with the sense of purity and shock due to intentional inconsistency.
자크 데리다의 해체론은 지금까지 포스트모던 담론으로서 G. W. F. 헤겔, I. 칸트 등 이성중심주의에 서 이성의 한계와 진리의 현존성의 부재, 즉 진리의 불 가해성에만 관심을 두면서 말의 유희에 고착된 비정치적이고 현실 사회에 유용 하지 않은 현학적인 사변적 학문으로 비판받아왔다. 그러나 데리다의 연구를 깊 게 진행한 학자들은 데리다의 해체론 이론이 얼마나 현실 사회에 직접적 관계 를 가지고 유효한 이론적 특을 제공하는지 인식하게 된다. 예를 들어, 데리다의 『불한당들』은 9․11 사건 이후 이라크를 재침공한 미국의 정치적 역사를 언급 하면서, 미국의 패권주의 형태를 불한당으로 묘사할 뿐만 아니라, 미국이 과거 에 아프가니스탄을 대상으로 러시아와의 간접적 전투에서 이기기 위해, 즉 미국 자신의 정치적 이익을 위해 길러낸 오사마 빈 라덴 같은 전사들이 어떻게 수 십 년 이후 미국을 직접 공격하는 관계를 가지게 되었는가를 자가면역의 개념으로 설명한다. 데리다는 패권주의의 정치적 행태가 자기를 보호하는 정책의 일환이 거꾸로 자기를 공격하는 결과적 구조를 가짐을 폭로하면서, 정치적 차원이나 개 인적 차원의모든 자기는 진정으로 타자를 품어주는 레비나스적 윤리의 차원을 가져야한다는 것을 주장하고 있다.
The purpose of this study is to review the concept and thinking structure of deconstruction theoretically and thereupon, analyze the visual beauty and wearable comfort of the clothing and further, discuss the aesthetic characteristics and values of the decentering phenomenon in the 21st century fashion. Deconstruction provides for an cognitive framework whereby we could comprehensively review the difficult-to-understand and imprudent creativity unravelling in the name of the post-modernism as well as the ambiguous visual beauty and wearable comfort of our contemporary fashion. In particular, deconstruction refuses such concepts involving the relationship between the conventional clothing and its components as order, symmetry, balance, harmony, perfection and simplicity and instead, attaches some sense of value to such relatively inferior concepts as disorder, asymmetry, unbalance, disharmony, imperfection and complexity, and thus, reflects them in the modes of aesthetic representations to create new aesthetics and expand the expressive potential.
이논문은 음악의 요소들과 음악외적인 의미들을 이해하기위해 쟈크 데리다의 문자에관한 철학적인 이론을 적용한다. 데리다는 음성언어와 문자언어의 전통적인 이분법적인 대립에 대해 재해석을 한다. 그는 그 이분법적인 대립의 상하구조, 즉 서구의 형이상학 철학 체계 전반에 대해 반대로 생각해보고, 더 나아가서는 현실에서 잘못 인식되고 있는 점들의 변혁을 꽤한다. 이러한 인식론적 변혁을 꾀하는 것을 해체주의라 한다. 이 연구에서는 세 가지의 다른 대립에 대해 살펴본다 - 이항대립, 유표성, 그리고 음양이론. 이는 해체주의의 단계별 과정, 즉 텍스트를 이항대립으로 생각해보고, 이를 전위 시키고, 결국 사고의 변혁을 가져오게 하는 그 과정을 잘 묘사한다. 서양의 사고는 이항대립의 형태에서 심한 상하구조를 가지고있다. 즉, 어떤하나의요소는그반대의것을완전히지배하는구조이다. 이항대립에서는 근본적인 것이라고 여겨지는 요소가 주목을 받는다. 반면에, 유표성 이론에서는 어떠한 특별한 속성의 존재가 주목 받는다. 그래서 유표성 이론은 이항대립의 전위적인 특성을 보인다. 더 나아가 이항 대립의 전위는 음양이론으로 더 넓게 생각되어질 수 있다. 자연의 이치에서 음이 여성적이며, 어두운성격이라면양은남성적이며 밝음을 상징한다. 서로보충적인이러한힘은가까이서 보면 반대인 듯 하나, 크게 보면 유기체적으로 하나를 이룬다. 이는 결국 서로 다른 요소들이 조화를 이루게 됨을 나타낸다. 그러므로 음양의 동양적 사고는 이항대립적인 서양의 형이상학적 사고를 해체시킨다. 이러한 세가지 다른 대립들을 기초하여 Charles Ives’s General William Booth Enters into Heaven의 형식, 주선울, 리듬, 클라이막스 면에서 분석하고 어떤 요소들이 전위되고, 인식론적인 변혁을 가져왔는 지를 연구한다.
This study is on the pedagogical convention of architectural history in Korea, especially that of Western Architecture. Recent institutional change in architectural school in Korea has caused overall restructuring of academic program. In spite of extension in the field of history there was no progress of method and way of thinking. There is no change in the point of view to see the western architecture and its history as a unique and specialized phenomenon in the civilization of mankind. Because of no recognition about for what, for whom, and how to, and because of orientalism, the cultural position of western architectural history and its narrative was not asked. With the help of post-colonialism, de-constructivism and critical historiography this paper tries to show the fundamental premise of western architectural history as a myth and show its prejudice as not being justifiable. The background of the discourse there has been a representation effect with regard to knowledge as a power. we need to escape from this kind of cognitional frame With the analysis of the its premise and narrative we can find it is a historical construct that was made in the age of imperialism. In fact it has a lot of false information and problematic point of view. The Identity and originality of western architecture and its history has no logical reason or foundation if we think that it depends on the difference and comparison with other civilization. For example the explanation of its historical origin western architecture has big difference with Islamic architecture in spite of the resemblance each other. This paper try to show several reasons that discourse of western architectural history can not be survived any longer. So we need to reconstruct new pedagogy with deconstruction for the students of non western, or Korean students. Because it has important effect to see and think about architecture and its history.
The paper defines two key terms of the last century: Deconstruction and Decreation. Emphasis is put on the second term, as it is useful to understand how Stevens composed his poetry and what he wanted to say about form and content in poetry in a modern context. In his essay "The Relations between Poetry and Painting" he talks about the term Decreation, which means the modern sensibility and mind that eye reality. Stevens' definition of decreation seems to fit well in some of Yeats's poems, the fact of which proves that it can be applied to modern poetry in general, as it has gone through the same soil and climate. Picasso exemplifies and consolidates the usefulness of the terms decreation and deconstruction. Stevens has made one term current and useful for deepening the understanding and appreciation of modern and contemporary poetry, and possibly modern and contemporary art.