Since the gene expression interference induced by dsRNA was discovered, dsRNA has been considered as an antiviral agent and pesticide to protect beneficial insects and crops, respectively. Recently, dsRNA was classified as IRAC mode of action group 35, and the first dsRNA pesticide, Calatha of GreenLight Bioscience, has been approved by EPA. Also an animal drug for Asian honeybee, HoneyGuard-R of Genolution is about to be approved by APQA. During the last two decades, hundreds of papers already had demonstrated the application and capability of dsRNA for agriculture, however, we have just a few commercialized products at hand at this moment. It is time to understand the processes, hurdles and limitations on the industry side that are indispensable for the development, registration and commercialization of dsRNA-based products.
본 논문에서는 확률론적 처리기법을 적용하여 플랜트 시설물의 폭발 재현주기에 따른 폭발 위험도를 분석하였다. HSE에서 제공하 는 누출 데이터, DNV에서 제시한 플랜트당 연간 누출 빈도, 다양한 연구진이 제시한 점화 확률을 고려하여 누출량에 따른 폭발 재현 주기를 산정하였다. 산정된 폭발 재현주기를 통해 폭발 위험도를 증기운의 부피 및 반경, 폭발하중에 대하여 평가하였다. 재현주기에 따른 증기운의 반경과 과거 실제 증기운 폭발 사례, 내폭설계 가이드라인을 비교 분석하여 설계폭발하중 모델을 위한 기준거리를 제 시하였다. 멀티에너지법을 통하여 폭발 재현주기에 따른 폭발하중의 범위를 분석하였으며, 설계폭발하중 모델의 기준이 되는 재현주 기를 제안하였다. 본 연구의 결과로 플랜트 시설물에 대한 성능기반 내폭설계의 간략한 표준안으로 활용이 가능하다.
HNS(Hazardous and Noxious Substances)는 해양환경에 유입될 경우 인간 및 해양생물에게 해를 끼치거나, 해양시설에 부식 등의 손상을 입히거나 기타 해역의 이용을 방해할 수 있다. HNS의 규제나 관리를 위해서는 과학적인 방법을 통하여 우선순위 대상의 선정이 필요하며 이러한 방법론으로 CRS(Chemical Ranking and Scoring)기법이 전세계적으로 개발되어 사용되고 있다. 본 연구에서는 해양산업시 설로부터 해양환경으로 배출되는 HNS의 체계적 관리를 목적으로 국내외 CRS 체계를 비교 분석하였으며, 이를 통하여 우선순위 선정 도 출체계를 확립하고 연구대상 지역 및 대상시설을 선정하고 우선순위 선정체계 주요인자를 도출하였다. 또한 주요인자별 세부인자 및 정 량적 배점체계를 구축하였다. 주요인자는 각각 사회적 관심과 이슈(20점), 물질거동(10점), 노출가능성(30점), 독성(35점), 해양이용에의 영 향(5점)을 상대적으로 부여하였으며, 독성과 물질거동 세부인자의 곱을 통하여 100점만점으로 환산가능하도록 적용하였으며, 불확실성점 수(Uncertainty score)와 불확실성 비율(Uncertainty ratio)와 혼합물에 대한 고려방안을 제시하였다. 본 연구결과는 해양산업시설로부터 배출/ 유출되는 HNS 관리를 위하여 우선순위 선정시 활용될 수 있을 것으로 기대된다.
As the importance of artificial intelligence grows rapidly and emerges as a leader in technology, it is becoming an important variable in the next-generation industrial system along with the robot industry. In this study, a safety system was developed using deep learning technology to provide worker safety in a robot workplace environment. The implemented safety system has multiple cameras installed with various viewing directions to avoid blind spots caused by interference. Workers in various scenario situations were detected, and appropriate robot response scenarios were implemented according to the worker's risk level through IO communication. For human detection, the YOLO algorithm, which is widely used in object detection, was used, and a separate robot class was added and learned to compensate for the problem of misrecognizing the robot as a human. The performance of the implemented system was evaluated by operator detection performance by applying various operator scenarios, and it was confirmed that the safety system operated stably.
해양환경의 위험유해물질 배출규제는 주로 선박이나 해양시설 등으로부터의 오염규제에 한정되어 있기 때문에, 해안 인접 산업 시설들의 위험유해물질 배출 허용기준 및 배출 지침 수립 등의 해양배출제도의 수립 필요성이 제기되고 있다. 본 연구에서는 해양산업시 설의 위험유해물질 배출 허용기준 및 배출 지침 정보를 자세히 제공하고 있는 미국 환경보호청(US EPA)의 자료를 중심으로 허용기준 및 배출 지침 수립 등 배출 제도 체계를 소개하고 향후 국내 배출지침 적용에 대해 고찰했다.
PURPOSES : In this study, high-viscosity grout for increasing ground stiffness is developed using industrial byproducts.
METHODS : Based on literature review, the viscosity and viscosity expression time of domestic and foreign anti-washout admixture underwater were evaluated. In addition, grout was prepared by mixing 5% to 40% of fly ash (FA) in a standard mixture. Flow, setting time, and compressive strength tests were conducted to evaluate the quality of the grout.
RESULTS : Experimental results show that the viscosity required is 35,000 to 40,000 cps, whereas the viscosity expression time required exceeds 300 min. As the amount of FA used for grouting increases, the physical and mechanical performances deteriorate. The strength of a test specimen manufactured underwater is lower than that of a test specimen manufactured under air, and the decrease on day 28 is lower than that on day 3. The FA applied to the grout should be less than 20%.
CONCLUSIONS : Although industrial byproducts, which exhibit high viscosity, offer excellent mechanical performance and are thus suitable as a solidifying agent for strengthening grout, their application in the field must be evaluated.
In general, companies operate systematically in response to financial risks such as exchange rates and liquidity, while they are vulnerable to risks in the manufacturing and sales processes. In particular, logistics refers to the activities for planning, managing and implementing efficient flows from the starting point of goods and products to the point of consumption, The purpose of this study was to develop key risks and key risk management indicators (KRIs) for risks that undermine logistics efficiency so that logistics risks can be effectively prevented and managed. As a result, 40 risk management indicators (KRIs) were developed in a total of six categories in the logistics sector, and the definition, calculation method and early warning grade of each KRI were presented so that companies could prevent risks in advance in logistics activities and contribute to enhancing efficiency of their work.
토지개발로 부터 발생하는 불로소득적 개발이익을 환수하는 개발부담금 제도는 정치적, 경제적 사유 등으로 인하여 한시적 부과중지 및 부과유예, 부과감면, 부과율 조정 등의 과정을 거치면서 정착되어 왔다. 계획입지 및 개별입지에서 시행되는 개발사업으로 부터 발생하는 개발이익을 기준으로 부과율을 적용하여 개발부담금을 부과하고 있다. 계획입지에 의한 개발사업인 산업단지는 국가경제의 발전에 따라 대규모의 중화학공업위주로 조성되었으나 지역적으로 지속적인 미분양의 누적과 노후화 등의 문제점이 발생되고 있고, 신사업육성과 지방경제 활성화 및 혁신기반구축과 같은 산업패러다임의 변화로 인해 새로운 산업분야의 창업과 그를 위해 필요한 인력충원의 조화가 가능한 도시를 중심으로 첨단산업 중심의 소규모 산업단지개발사업으로 변화되고 있다. 산업단지개발사업의 특성으로 인하여 계획적이고 체계적인 개발과 토지가격 안정 및 분양가격 결정에 관한 사항을 별도로 규정하고 있다. 특히 분양가격을 결정하는 경우 적정이윤을 제한하도록 제도화 되었다. 그로인해 산업단지개발사업 실시계획승인일 이후 분양가 산정시 결정되는 적정이윤과 준공인가일 이후 개발부담금을 산출기준이 되는 개발이익은 그 적용기준에서 차이를 보이고 있어 이에 대한 연구가 필요해 보인다. 개발부담금 제도상의 개발이익은 토지로부터 발생하는 지가차이에 의한 미실현 개발이익을 확인하여 조세적 성격인 개발 부담금을 부과하는 것이므로 부과권자와 납부의무자 모두에게 개발이익산출의 정확성과 객관적 기준을 규정하는 것은 반듯이 필요한 측면이 있다. 그러나 산업단지개발사업은 국가 또는 시·도의 조례로 적정이윤율을 규정하여 분양시 자본비용 등을 공제한 조성원 가에 규정된 적정이윤율을 적용하여 분양가를 결정하고 있다. 즉 분양시 적용되는 적정이 윤은 처분가와 조성원가를 기준으로 실질적이익을 담보하여 분양가를 결정하는 실현이익이 되는 것이다. 따라서 현재 산업단지개발사업의 실시계획승인일과 준공인가일의 기간 동안의 지가차이를 기준으로 산출되는 개발이익과 실현이익을 기준으로 적정이윤율을 적용하여 산출된 이익을 적용하여 개발부담금을 부과하는 방안을 연구하므로써 실질적 개발이익을 기준으로 개발부담금을 환수할 수 있는 방안을 모색할 수 있을 것이다.
The manner in which education will be delivered in the 21st-century has often been debated. Various literature has agreed that an interactive teaching and learning method is required in parallel with the emergence and development of cyber technology. The conventional method of teaching should be reconstituted to emphasize aspects associated with innovation and creativity in attracting the attention of students in learning. Despite the current Malaysian education emphasize the learning features that include 1) Creative thinking, 2) Critical thinking, 3) Collaboration, 4) Character and 5) Communication. However, 21st-century approach requires exposure, skills, and creativity to be implemented by the Malaysian educators. Therefore, the aim of this study is to propose a new maritime interactive teaching model towards a Sustainable Development Goals (SGDs) and industrial revolution 4.0. Three (3) secondary schools around Terengganu in Malaysia were chosen to participate in a pilot case study. The results of the study found that more than 90% of students now understand more about the maritime industry based on their acquired knowledge and education in this area. While, more than 70% of students described that this method of teaching is appealing. Maritime education innovative learning through an interactive learning model was successfully achieved based on the findings of this study, called the ‘Mariner’s Fantasy’. Additionally, through the inspirations of IR 4.0 and the Malaysia Education Development Plan, 2013-2025, the study has demonstrated the usefulness of the Maritime Education Innovative Learning (MEIL) program through an interactive learning method, in enhancing the delivery of maritime education by adopting an effective teaching-based approach.
본 연구에서는 다양한 관련 문헌들에 대한 내용분석과 분석적 서술을 통해 1960-1970년대 우리나라 중공업발전 사례에서의 발전모습을 산업추격관점에서 분석해보고, 그 과정에서의 KIST의 역할을 재조명하였다. 중공업 발전 초기 단계에서 우리나라는 국가 주도의 산업 전반에 걸쳐 새롭게 요구되는 산업추격전략이 필요했다. 산업추격전략에서는 개별 기업의 기술학습능력 보다는 국가 수준에서 산업 전반을 고려한 산업 설계역량이 필요 했으며, KIST 그러한 산업기획 및 설계를 가능하게 하는 산업계획가로서 역할을 했다.
산업계획가는 ‘국가 경제발전을 위하여 미래 수요를 예측하고 분석하여 국가 수준에서 산업을 설계, 계획하고 우선순위를 정하여 이를 실천에 옮기는 사람 또는 기관’ 이라고 정의 할 수 있으며, KIST는 ① 산업발전을 위한 필요 범용기술의 인지와 기술선택, ② 전후방 효과에 대한 분석과 가치사슬 설계, ③ 다학문 융합적 사고 또는 다분야 집단지식의 발현, ④ 사명감 및 애국심에 의한 동기부여 등의 역할 및 속성을 가지고 있었다.
Recently, the advancement of information and communication technology(ICT) is expanding the connectivity through Internet of Things(IoT), and the media of connection is also expanding from wire/cable transmission to broadband wireless communication, which has significantly improved mobility. This hyperconnectivity has become a key element of the fourth industrial revolution, whereas the supervisory control network of purification plants in korea is operated as a communication network separated from the outside, thereby lagging in terms of connectivity. This is considered the best way to ensure security, and thus there is hardly any consideration of establishing alternatives to operate an efficient and stable communication network. Moreover, security for management of a commercialized communication network and network management solution may be accompanied by immense costs, making it more difficult to make new attempts. Therefore, to improve the conditions for the current supervisory control network of purification plants, this study developed a industrial security L2 switch that supports modbus TCP(Transmission Control Protocol) communication and encryption function of the transmission section. As a result, the communication security performance improved significantly, and the cost for implementing the network management system using Historical Trend and information of HMI(Human Machine Interface) could be reduced by approximately KRW 200 million. The results of this study may be applied to systems for gas, electricity and social safety nets that are infrastructure communication networks that are similar to purification plants.
빅데이터 분석을 통한 기업 경영환경에 대한 이해와 통찰을 구하고자 하는 요구가 산업 및 기업 경영 전반에 증가하고 있다. 이러한 사회적 요구에 따라 산업의 이해와 기업 경영의 이해를 위하여 기업의 경영실적 및 향후 계획을 포괄적으로 담고 있는 기업공시정보를 활용한 연구가 주목을 받고 있다. 이러한 기업공시정보는 대표적인 비정형 데이터로써 텍스트마이닝 방법론을 적용하여 그 범위와 수준에 대한 다양한 접근을 통하여 산업 수준 및 기업 수준에서 다양한 활용이 가능하다. 그러나 아직은 이러한 기업공시자료를 활용한 산업 및 기업 레벨에서 적용가능한 수준의 분석모델이 부족한 것으로 파악된다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 실제 활용 가능한 공개데이터를 활용한 산업 및 기업 수준의 분석모델을 제안하고자 한다. 미국상장기업의 공시자료인 미국 SEC EDGAR 자료를 기반으로 텍스트마이닝 알고리즘을 적용하여 산업 및 기업 수준의 경영주제(토픽)에 대한 추이분석이 가능한 모델을 제안하고자한다.
SEC EDGAR의 10-K 문서를 대상으로 LDA 토픽 모델링을 통하여 산업 수준에서 전체 산업의 주제분야 분류를 파악하였고, 산업간 비교 측면에서 소프트웨어 산업과 하드웨어 산업 분야의 사례를 통해 최근 20년간의 토픽추이를 비교분석 하였다. 또한 최근 20년간의 기업의 경영주제 변화를 소프트웨어 산업에 속한 2개 기업을 중심으로 살펴보았다. 이를 통해 산업 및 기업 수준에서의 경영주제의 추이 변화를 파악하여 쇠퇴 및 성장 추세에 있는 경영주제를 확인 할 수 있었다. 한편 word2vec 워드 임베딩 모델과 주성분분석을 통한 차원 축약을 통해 소프트웨어 산업분야의 기업 및 특정 제품(혹은 서비스)에 대한 매핑을 통해 유사한 경영주제(토픽)를 가지는 기업 및 제품(서비스)을 사례를 통해 파악하였으며, 이를 시간적 흐름에 따른 변화 양상도 관찰할 수 있었다.
본 연구의 목적이 공개데이터를 활용한 산업 및 기업 수준의 분석모델을 개발하기 위한 방법론을 제안한 측면에서, 해외 데이터를 사용하여 산업의 경영주제 변화 추이, 기업의 경영주제 변화 추이를 거시적으로 조망할 수 있는 실무적인 방법론의 제안에서 의의가 있을 수 있다. 한편 기업의 기술경영전략 측면에서 기업의 경영토픽의 잦은 변화, 경영주제의 변화의 속도 등 다양한 변화 양상의 차이에 따른 기업의 매출 등의 경영성과와의 연관성 분석, 실제 기업의 제품포트폴리오의 구성에 따른 기업 간의 경쟁상황 등을 파악하는 미시적 모델 제안을 위한 추가 연구가 요구된다.
식품의 생물학적 위해요소인 해충과 유해균 및 부패균을 제어하기 위해 실제 포장필름 생산 공정 설비를 이용하여 방충 및 항균 기능성을 갖는 식품용 다층 포장필름을 제조하였다. 우선, 효과적인 활성 물질의 스크리닝 과정을 통해 식품의 대표적 해충인 화랑곡나방 유충(Plodia interpunctella)에 대해 기피력을 나타내는 팔각회향 에센셜 오일과, 황색포도상구균(Staphylococcus aureus) 및 페니실리움(Penicillium roqueforti)에 대해 항균력을 갖는 티몰(thymol)을 필름내 혼입할 활성 물질로 선정하였다. 선정된 활성 물질을 혼입한 폴리우레탄계 코팅액을 polyethylene terephthalate (PET) 12 μm 필름 표면에 코팅하였으며, 방충용 필름은 polypropylene (PP) 30 μm을, 항균용 필름은 low-density polyethylene (LDPE) 30 μm을 적층하여 다층필름의 구조로 제조하였다. Large-scale 생산 공정 설비를 통해 제조된 필름을 활용하여 유충에 대한 기피 효과와 항균력을 측정하였으며, 대조군 필름은 유충에 대한 기피력 및 항균 효과를 보이지 않은 반면, 개발된 방충 및 항균 필름은 화랑곡나방 유충과 두 가지 균에 대해 각각 뛰어난 기피력과 항균 효과를 보였다. 따라서, 본 연구는 식품 포장소재의 대량생산에 활용 가능한 표면 코팅 기술을 개발하고 그 방충효과 및 항균 효과를 입증함으로써 식품 중 생물학적 위해요소의 저감화를 위한 식품 포장 신소재 개발에 기여할 것이다.
동일노동 동일임금과 직무중심 인사관리를 실현하기 위해서 객관적이고 타당한 직무평가 도구의 중요성이 지속적으로 강조되어왔다. 기존의 직무평가 도구로 글로벌 컨설팅 사들이 제공하는 범용 직무평가 도구가 활용되고 있지만 비용 측면이나 평가 항목과 가중치에서의 산업 및 조직의 직무 구조 및 특수성 반영의 필요성측면에서 현실적 장벽이 존재한다. 이러한 연구 배경을 토대로 본 연구에서는 노사 간 참여의 균형과 협력적으로 집단지성을 활용하여 타당하고 수용성 높은 직무평가 도구를 자체적으로 개발할 수 있는 방법론을 제시하였다. 직무평가 도구 개발 과정은 크게 6단계로 제안하였고, 각 단계별로 수행해야 할 주요 내용에 대해 서술하였다. 본 연구에서는 개별 조직, 산업의 직무구조와 특성이 반영될 수 있는 직무평가 도구를 구성하기 위한 과정과 다양하고 차별적인 항목과 가중치로 구성된 산업별 직무평가 도구 결과를 제시하였다. 본 연구에서 개발된 직무평가 도구 방법론을 보건의료, 철강, 은행, 호텔 산업에 적용하였다. 그 결과 직무평가 도구가 산업별 특성을 반영하여 평가 항목 및 가중치가 다르게 구성될 수 있음을 확인하였다. 결론에서는 도출된 직무평가 도구를 활용하여 직군 분류, 직무급 설계 등 직무중심 인사관리에 적용할 수 있는 방안과 향후 연구 방향을 제시하였다.
The purpose of this project is to seek strategic response for the Korea Expressway Corporation(hereinafter referred to as Public corporation) about the change of the fourth industrial revolution. For this purpose, the project scope has 3 phase. 1. Characteristic of the 4thindustrial revolution and the trend of major change. 2. Prospect of Future Expressway and changes related industry. 3. Publiccorporation’s Short-term strategy and detailed challenges. Also, The Project analyzes the KDF and patterns, which directly/indirectly affect the Public Corporation with change of 4th industrial revolution. As a result, Making a Mid-term and Short-term strategy for respond to future change with Structuring Causal Relationships and Deriving Future Scenarios. Moreover, we focuses on a shift in the number of key changes in the 4th industrial revolution and the first consideration to derive a significant change in the direction of change in the 4th century, focusing on trends that will not change the trend in 10 years, rather than 10 years later. First, The 4th industry revolution is not just point of view that integration of technology such as IOT,AI but Motivation that Creating the innovation in the whole society with huge change of social system. So executing Macroscopic analysis for formation of sympathy. Second, creates core changes drivers individual, businesses, and national level drivers in future trends. And the strategic direction that road's role and function at future society are reflected in the public corporation's strategic tasks. Thrid, For prospect of future expressway, reviewing public corporation's existing research data. As a result, Preventing duplicate researches and enhance research efficiency. Fourth, an analysis of the present situation Through expert review of the 4th industry revolution and future development direction by convergence based on a current road map. Considering the change in the social and social environment, prospect future outlook with Deduction of change drivers that will not changed after 10years. Fifth, focus on human desires and values, technological innovation, solving problems, converging technology culture, solving social issues, and responding to changes in social issues. In order to realize this, it is possible to communicate in storytelling so that ordinary people can easily understand the changes in the area. Based on the scenario, we prepared for the future of the Korea Expressway Corporation by setting up a total of 15 detailed tasks based on the scenario and the fact that 15 different aspects of the project are based on the scenario.
The purpose of this study is to build a rural landscape industrial network system and establish the roles and relationships of stakeholders within that system. The rural landscape industrial network system was set up systematically, based on five business model components: value proposition, target customer, value chain/organization, delivery design, and revenue stream. The roles and relationships of stakeholders were established using a case study of the typical industrialization using rural landscape. The proposed rural landscape industrial network system consists of core industry, auxiliary industry, and the network service industry that connects the two. It was designed to have a system for landscapes to maintain their rurality, with the mutual effects among government agencies and local governments, specialized organizations, local residents, and visitors all described in the industries. Data from the rural landscape industrial network system proposed in this study can be used as baseline data to set the direction for industrialization using the rural landscape at villages.
This study examines how small weaving manufacturers in Japan managed to successfully transform their cotton kimono businesses during the phenomenon of the growing popularity of Western clothing in the 1970s, and develop within the Sanbi industrial cluster to become global leaders in the production of high-quality denim and jeans worldwide.
Introduction
Japanese denim companies are very small but remain competitive due to their quality, compared with Chinese, Mexican, and Turkish companies. Some of these Japanese companies have won the Premier Vision Fabrics Handle Prize, while others have created new denim fabrics, such as soft denim, for luxury brands. According to the data of the Office of Textile and Apparel (OTEXA), as a proportion of sales in 2015 the United States imported most of its blue denim fabric from Japan (28.9 percent), with China in second place (26.2 percent), and Mexico third (17.3 percent); in terms of volume, the United States imported blue denim fabric from China (36.3 percent), with Mexico in second place (24.8 percent), and Japan third (13.5 percent). How was it that Japanese denim companies developed to become such prominent leaders in the field? Most of these companies are clustered geographically, with jeans companies sitting side-by-side with dyeing, processing, and finishing factories. These clusters were originally set up for the production of Kasuri cotton kimono clusters, and only shifted into denim and jeans production in the 1970s. This study will shed light on the development process of the denim industry in Japan – focusing on the Sanbi district, the largest denim and jeans cluster – and will examine the success factors in the global market from a historical perspective using primary sources.
The Westernization of Clothing
One success factor is the social and culture background in Japan (Fujioka and Wubs, forthcoming). Before the Second World War most people in Japan – male and female, old and young – wore kimonos. A kimono is a traditional Japanese robe that is tied at the waist by a wide belt called an ‘obi’. It has no buttons, zippers, or any other kinds of fastening. The shape of the garment is very simple and it has little decoration. A kimono is made from many different types of fabric, including silk, cotton, wool, and linen. The type of fabric defined the kimono’s suitability for different occasions, such as a high-quality silk kimono for ceremonial events and a cotton one for casual wear. The type of fabric also reflected a person’s social position, until the Meiji Restoration in 1868. During this time only the Samurai class could wear silk kimonos, while other social classes wore cotton kimonos. After 1868 people had freedom of choice in clothing, meaning that anyone could wear silk kimonos for weddings and funerals.
Although Western-style clothing had already been introduced to the upper classes by the Japanese government during the Meiji Restoration, after the Second World War, the Japanese lifestyle began to be westernized at an ever-faster pace, particularly in the area of clothing. Along with the high economic growth in the late 1950s and early 1960s, the kimono market shrank and Western fashion became a mass phenomenon in Japan. First came tailor-made clothes for upper-class and upper-middle-class customers; after this, clothing companies rapidly increased their sales, and ready-to-wear clothing soon became common among every generation and income group in the 1970s. Jeans were one example of the clothing that was introduced at this time, and a niche market formed of mainly young customers who lived in urban areas. These young consumers had first seen jeans being worn by Americans from the General Headquarters (GHQ) during the recovery period, and they soon began to identify jeans as a symbol of freedom and individuality. With the increasing demand for jeans, several jeans and denim companies were established in the 1970s to capture this niche market. Since then the denim and jeans market in Japan has developed to specialize in high-quality premium denim and jeans.
The Sanbi Industrial Cluster
The main factor in the success of the Japanese denim and jeans industry is the effective transformation of the whole cluster. Cotton kimonos have a variety of styles based on various dyeing and weaving methods. The ‘Kasuri’ kimono, for example, is a type of cotton kimono that is dyed with indigo, requiring great skill in dyeing and weaving; as a result, it can be very expensive, although this type of cotton kimono is still regarded as casual, everyday clothing. There were three main industrial clusters for Kasuri kimonos in Japan, namely Kurume, Iyo, and Bingo, which had been established in around 1800. Among these, Bingo became the largest cluster and produced more mass products than the others in the 1960s. While Kurume and Iyo were striving to innovate a new Kasuri fabric and shifted to the high-end market to cover the decreasing demands of kimonos, the Bingo cluster created mass products more efficiently than before. It continued to increase its sales until 1960 with the improvement of technology, although in the 1970s sales began to decrease rapidly with the huge growth in demand for Western clothing (Shinichi Choshi Hensan Iinkai, 2002).
Many manufacturers therefore suffered from the introduction of the new Western clothing. Some silk kimono manufacturers were able to shift their focus to the high-end market for ceremonial occasions due to their special place in Japanese society (Hashino, 2015). However, many cotton kimono manufacturers, particularly those in the Bingo cluster who focused on mass customers, were unable to do so, because of the shrinking casual kimono market. This industrial cluster was therefore forced by changing consumer demands to transform the whole nature of its business from the production of traditional cotton Kasuri kimonos to a brand new industry.
The neighboring clusters of Bingo are Bizen and Bicchu, which were also cotton kimono clusters that used Kasuri fabric. Some manufacturers in Bizen who made kimono accessories started to produce ‘tabi’ (Japanese-style socks) in 1877 and then began sewing Western-style work clothes in the 1910s. In the 1920s many manufactures in the Bizen cluster started to produce Western-style school uniforms, which became increasingly popular (Fujii et al., 2007). This was a natural transition in terms of finding different uses for the same relevant technology: from the production of cotton fabric to tabi, and from tabi to school uniforms. All these products were made for daily use, and the same cutting and sewing skills for thick textiles that were used to make tabi were directly transferable to the production of work uniforms and school uniforms; by 1937 the Bizen cluster had become the largest producer of school uniforms in Japan.
However, between 1965 and 1970 the demand for school uniforms fell, because the early generation of baby boomers had passed through school, and competition within each cluster became more intensive with the emergence of newcomers. In order to manage the distribution channel and build a stable production system, large cotton-spinning companies controlled the weaving mills and sewing factories and organized retailers to maintain retail prices. This was a well-known form of management in Japan at the time called ‘Keiretsu’. As a result, those manufacturers who were not working in partnership with any large spinning manufacturers found it very difficult to secure orders, and were eventually pushed out of the industry and forced to change the nature of their business. One of these small manufacturers in Bizen was called Big John, which had been established in 1940 to produce school uniforms. After transforming its business, it started to sew the first ‘made in Japan’ jeans using imported American denim in 1967, and later using Japanese denim in 1972 (Sugiyama, 2009). Its great success encouraged many of its surrounding manufacturers to join this emerging field, which resulted in the establishment of a whole new denim and jeans industry that spread across Bizen, Bingo, and Bicchu to the point where these three districts became collectively known as ‘Sanbi’ in Japanese.
The Successful Transformation of Industrial Clusters
New technology for producing denim and jeans was brought to Japan from the United States. Many denim companies started out as producers of Kasuri fabric and shifted to denim production in the 1960s and 1970s, using their existing skills and technology to make this transition. Although it was a natural path to take considering the change in consumer demand and the fact that both Kasuri fabric and jeans were dyed by indigo, there were many challenges involved in adapting to this change. Rope dyeing was the biggest hurdle that these manufacturers had to face, but they managed to learn the technique by reverse engineering American-made jeans and relying on their skills in indigo dyeing and sewing thick textiles. Making a success of this transition from a cotton kimono cluster into a denim and jeans cluster was the only way that these businesses could survive the huge growth in popularity of Western clothing in Japan. This whole transformational process was led by small, lesser-known manufacturers rather than by larger ones. As one of the major businesses in the Kasuri cluster in Japan, Bingo catered for the mass market, but was hardest hit by the introduction of Western clothing, as it was more difficult for its business model to adjust to westernization. Bizen, however, managed to shift to the production of Western clothing at an early stage, focusing on uniforms – and it was the dropout factories from the uniform industry that eventually became the driving force behind the emergence of the jeans industry. The resulting success of the Japanese denim business model then spread out across the cluster, which today enjoys an enhanced competitive advantage in the global market.