This study was conducted to investigate anti-inflammatory and wrinkle improvement effects of Sophora flavescens Aiton water extracts (SWE) treated with proteolytic enzyme. The antioxidant activity of proteolyzed Sophora flavescens Aiton water extracts (SWE-E) showed increased total polyphenol content, total flavonoid content, electron-donating ability and ABTS+ free radical scavenging activity compared with SWE. To investigate the anti-inflammatory effects, the inhibition of NO production was assessed in RAW 264.7 cells induced by LPS. The SWE-E showed an increased anti-inflammatory effect compared with SWE at the same concentration. The anti-wrinkle effect was evaluated by the rate of collagenase and elastase inhibitory activity, which was determined by the MMP-1 mRNA measured in human dermal fibroblast (HDF) by quantitative polymerase chain reaction (qPCR). Collagenase and elastase are important enzymes that play roles in wrinkle formation, and SWE-E showed a significantly higher collagenase inhibition rate than non-treated extracts. The MMP-1 mRNA in HDF cells decreased in a dose-dependent manner. Moreover, SWE was shown to be a non-irritant in the BCOP assay, which is an alternative method to in vivo eye irritation test. Taken together, these results suggest that proteolytic enzyme could enhance the antioxidant activity, as well as the anti-inflammatory and anti-wrinkle effects of SWE, and that SWE-E could be used as a cosmeceutical ingredient.

The use of bee venom (Apis mellifera L., BV) occasionally causes side effects such as inflammation and allergic reactions in the recipients. Several case reports also suggested the treatment of BV has some limitations in its clinical uses, due to the occurrence of dermal necrosis and anaphylatic reactions. It is generally understood that bee venom allergy is mainly the result of its allergic component, phospholipase A2 (PLA2). The present study was aimed to generate PLA2-free bee venom (PBV) and evaluate its efficacy as skin care and cosmetic preparation, comparing with original bee venom (BV). Our results showed that both BV and PBV exhibited significant protective effects in UVB-irradiated human keratinocyte (HaCaT) and human dermal fibroblast (HDF) cells and they also induced type I collagen synthesis in UVB-irradiated HDF cells except BV at 3 μg/ml. Furthermore, BV and PBV showed the inhibition of UVB-stimulated matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), a major collagen degrading enzyme in skin. However, BV, unlike PBV, exhibited strong cytotoxicities in skin cells (both HaCaT and HDF) at its working concentrations of anti-wrinkle effect. The underlying cell signaling mechanisms of anti-wrinkle effects of BV and PBV were demonstrated by the activation of ERK1/2, and p38. Conclusively, PBV appears to be the bee venom of choice with less cytotoxicity and higher efficacy on UVB-irradiated skin cells in comparison with original bee venom (BV). Therefore, PBV can better be used as a cosmetic ingredient exhibiting excellent anti-wrinkle effect against photoaging than original BV.

In the previous study, we reported the antioxidative activity and inhibition of melanogenesis of Ligularia stenocephala extracts. In this study, inhibitory effect on elastase and production type I procollagen were investigated. The compounds which was investigated were 4-hydroxyacetophenone, vanillin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid isolated from Ligularia stenocephala. They were slightly mild on elastase inhibition activity but 4-hydroxyacetophenone, vanillin exhibited good inhibition activity on collagen production. These results suggest that Ligularia stenocephala may have potential as an anti-aging ingredient in cosmetics.

Background : Collagen and elastin contribute to form a network under the epidermis and reduce the wrinkles. Collagen and elastin are degraded by collagenase and elastase. Therefore, inhibition of collagenase and elastase activity could be an excellent method for anti-wrinkle. Pinus Koraiensis leaves contain various flavonoid compounds such as quercetin and kaempferol. According to previous reports, kaempferol has increases procollagen synthesis and inhibitory effect on MMP-1 activity. This study was performed to investigate the anti-wrinkle effect of Pinus Koraiensis leaves extract and fractions. Methods and Results : The active components of Pinus Koraiensis leaves extracts and fractions were determined. Total phenol and total flavonoid contents measured using the Folin-Ciocalteu reagent and according with aluminum chloride colormetric method. The kaempferol content analysis using HPLC system. The total phenol, flavonoid and kaempferol contents of ethyl acetate fraction was the highest. The antioxidant activity measured in according with DPPH, ABTS and RP assay. Pinus Koraiensis leaves extract and factions were the highest ethyl acetate fraction in antioxidant activity. The inhibitory activity on collagenase and elastase of Pinus Koraiensis leaves extract and factions were determined. The results of inhibitory activity on enzymes associated with wrinkle formation was the highest of n-butanol fraction, the next higher was 80% ethanol extract. As a result of using MMP-1 content and procollagen type-I C-peptide content assay kit, the anti-wrinkle effect of n-hexane fraction was highest. Conclusion : These results indicate that Pinus Koraiensis extract may help anti-wrinkl

In this study, the physicochemical properties and anti-wrinkle effect of polysaccharides with different molecular weights from Gloiopeltis furcata were investigated. Crude polysaccharides were isolated by viscozyme treatment followed by ethanol precipitation and lyophilization. Crude polysaccharides were hydrolyzed by acid (0.1 N HCl) and the molecular weight fractions were generated by centrifugal filter (<10 kDa, 10 to 100 kDa, and 100 kDa>). The yield of polysaccharides with different molecular weight fractions was 8.4-39.6%. The major constituents in molecular weight fractions were total sugar (81.37-85.82%), uronic acid (27.89-32.85 g/100 g), sulfate (33.38-39.04%), and protein (0.35-3.16%) The L, a, and b value of the 100 kDa group were decreased, but viscosity increased. The oxygen radical absorbance capacity of the 100 kDa group at 180.07 μM was the highest among groups. The protective effects of 100 kDa group at 0.5 and 5 μg/mL against H2O2-induced cytotoxicity in L132 cell were 87.34% and 103.85%, respectively. The matrix metalloproteinase-1 activity of 100 kDa group decreased in a dose-dependent manner. The pro-collagen synthesis activity of 100 kDa group at 0.05-0.5 μg/mL was 64.91-77.80%. The polysaccharides with different molecular weights from Gloiopeltis furcata investigated herein are useful as a potential candidate for cosmedical materials.

Background: In this study, examined the effects of an extract of a mixture of Angelica gigas, Cnidium officinale, Paeonia lactiflora, and Rehmannia glutinosa fermented by Leuconostoc mesenteroides, with enhanced value and functionality. In oriental medicine, a mixture of these herbs is called Samultang. Methods and Results: In this study, we evaluated the effects of a fermented extract of Samultang on oxidative stress, procollagen type I expression, and melanin production. Samultang was extracted with 70% ethanol, followed by inoculation with Leuconostoc mesenteroides to obtain the fermented extract. The evaluation of viability of B16F10 cells and human foreskin fibroblast (HHF) revealed that both ethanol and fermented extracts of Samultang were non-toxic. The results of 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) test showed that the fermented extract of Samultang (SC50 value = 100 ㎍/㎖) was a more effective DPPH free radical scavenger than its ethanol extract. In addition, procollagen type I expression was higher in cells treated with the fermented extract of Samultang than in cells treated with ethanol. In the non-toxic concentration range, the fermented extract of Samultang showed strong inhibitory effect on melanin production in α-melanocyte stimulatin hormone-stimulated B16F10 cells (IC50 = 37.9 ㎍/㎖). Conclusions: These results suggest that the fermented extract of Samultang has considerable protential as a cosmetic ingredient owing to its antioxidant, anti-wrinkle, and whitening effects.

황련해독탕(HHT)은 기력을 회복하며 여러 만성질환을 예방하고 치료하기 위해 예로부터 사용되어온 약재로, 본 연구는 인삼에서 분리한 유산균 Leuconostoc mesenteroides (L. mesenteroides)을 이용해 황련 해독탕 발효물(FHHT)을 제조하고 항산화, 항주름 및 미백 효과를 조사하였다. 황련해독탕 발효물은 황련해독 탕을 70% 에탄올로 추출한 후에 L. mesenteroides를 접종하여 발효 제조하였다. 발효 전 황련해독탕과 황련해 독탕 발효물에서 2가지 지표 성분 berberine과 palmatine을 high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC)을 이용하여 retention times (tR)과 UV spectra를 확인함으로써 정성 및 정량 분석하였다. 세포 생존 율 실험 결과, 발효 전후 황련해독탕 모두 독성이 확인되지 않았고 DPPH 라디칼 소거능 실험은 발효물의 SC50 값이 68.85 μ g/mL로 발효 전보다 우수한 효능을 나타내었다. Procollagen type I의 생성량 측정 실험에서도 역시 황련해독탕 발효물은 발효 전보다 더 높은 발현량을 나타내었으며, 세포 독성을 나타내지 않는 농도에서 흑색종 세포인 B16F10을 이용한 멜라닌 생성 억제 활성 실험 결과, 황련해독탕 발효물은 강한 멜라닌 생성 억 제 효과를 나타내었다(IC50 = 9.82 μ g/mL). 이상의 결과들로부터 황련해독탕 발효물이 항산화 효능, 항주름 효능뿐만 아니라 미백 효능을 갖는 화장품 원료로서 개발 가능성이 있음이 시사되었다.

This study was to investigate anti-skin wrinkle effect of Agastache rugosa Kentz extracts by extraction processes.In the comparison of the effect of the solvent extraction, the extracts by 70% ethanol (EE) showed better biological activitiesthat those by hot water. Therefore, further fermented Agastache rugosa was applied to 70% ethanol extraction process(FEE). FEE showed higher DPPH scavenging activity of 62.98% than EE’s 62.71% at 1.0㎎/㎖, but there was no significant.Elastase inhibition was measured 23.0% from FEE at 1.0㎎/㎖. Cytotoxicity showed the highest 16.26% from FEE, thisvalue is safe in the cell experiment. Collagen production showed 113.1ng/㎖ from FEE, on the other hand EE was measured77.4ng/㎖ in adding 1.0㎎/㎖. MMP-1 production was observed 1398pg/㎖ from FEE and EE was measured1632pg/㎖. These results were found the highest antioxidant and anti-wrinkle effect. As a result, it was also confirmed thatanti-skin wrinkle activities of the Agastache rugosa Kentz extract was correlated with anti-oxidant activities.

새로운 주름개선제 성분을 찾기 위해서 본 연구에서는 사람 피부 섬유아세포의 세포독성, 콜라겐 생합성, matrix metalloproteinase-I (MMP-1) 및 elastase 저해활성에 대한 Lactobacillus plantarum으로 발효된 오미자 발효액의 주름개선 효과를 평가하였다. 먼저, 오미자 추출물은 L. rhamnosus으로 37℃에서 1일 동안 발효하였다. 발효물의 세포독성은 cytopathic effect reduction 방법에 의해 평가하였다. 콜라겐 생합성에 대한 발효물의 영향은 procollagen type-IC peptide EIA kit에 의해 평가하였으며, matrix metalloproteinase-I(MMP-1)에 대한 발효물의 영향은 Matrix Metalloproteinase-1 Biotrack activity Assay Kit에 의해 평가하였다. Elastase inhibition assay는 기질로써 N-Suc-(Ala)3-nitroanilide을 사용하여 기질 반응에 의해 평가하였다. 결과로써 오미자 발효물은 사람 피부 섬유아 세포에 대해 100μg/mL의 농도에서 세포독성을 나타내지 않았다. 또한 오미자 발효물은 콜라겐 생합성을 촉진시켰으며, MMP-1의 저해 효과를 나타내었다(p < 0.05). Elastase inhibition assay에서 오미자 발효물의 IC50은 36.4μg/mL이었다. 그러므로 본 연구에서 오미자 발효물은 주름개선 효과를 보유하고 있으며, 이것은 피부의 주름개선을 위해 사용가능하리라 사료된다.

The purpose of this study was to research for anti-oxidation and anti-wrinkle effects of Acar mono Sap (AM). To cosmetic effect of AM, safety effect (MTT assay), anti-wrinkle effect (elastase, MMP-1 inhibition assay) and anti-oxidant effect (DPPH assay) were measured. When water extract of AM was used for cell viability, it was over 100% at 6% (6 ml/100 ml in phosphate buffer) concentration. AM showed 45.7% elastase inhibition and 23.7% MMP-1 inhibition at 50% (50 ml/100 ml in phosphate buffer) concentration so that it had good anti-wrinkle characteristic. And AM showed 68.9% antioxidation capacity at 50% concentration by using a DPPH assay. Consequently, AM can be used as natural materials or additives for human skin owing to their beneficial biologic functions, including the anti-wrinkle effect, for cosmetic compositions.

In this study, kaempferol and its rhamnosides (α-rhamnoisorobin, afzelin, kaempferitrin) were isolated electively by bioconversion technology from Hibiscus cannabinus L. leaves to evaluate the anti-wrinkles effects and anti-microbial effects. In order to evaluate anti-wrinkles activity, reduction of expression matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) protein and proliferation/ pro-collagen production were investigated. Kaempferol and α-rhamnoisorobin showed inhibition activity of MMP-1 generated to compared to positive control. In HaCaT cell proliferation assay, kaempferol and α-rhamnoisorobin significantly promoted cell proliferation in a concentration-dependent manner. In addition, procollagen synthesis assays (by HDF-N cell) showd that TGF-β induced procollagen production and also, all four kinds of experimental significantly promoted procollagen synthesis in a concentration-dependent manner. Kaempferol and α-rhamnoisorobin exhibited strong antimicrobial activities on five of microbes, Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Candida albicans and Aspergillus niger.

The bark of the root and stem of Ulmus davidiana var. japonica has been used as a traditional Korean medicine to treat inflammatory disorders. This plant reportedly shows antioxidant, anticancer, and anti-inflammatory effects. In this study, we investigated the protective effects of Ulmus davidiana var. japonica ethanolic extract (UDE) on UVB irradiation-induced wrinkle in hairless mice. We evaluated for their free radical-scavenging activities against 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and the anti-elastase activities, and for their anti-matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) activity in human skin fibroblast cells. In the wrinkle measurement and image analysis of skin replicas, the results showed that UDE significantly inhibited wrinkle formation caused by chronic UVB irradiation. These results suggest that UDE has anti-wrinkle activity.

본 연구는 에탄올 농도별(0, 30, 50, 70, 100 %)로 추출한 사매추출물의 항산화 효과를 Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity(ORAC)로 평가한 결과 30 % 에탄올 추출물에서 가장 우수하였다. 따라서 30 % 에탄올 추출물의 주름 완화에 관련한 효능 및 효과를 확인하기 위하여 마우스 유래 섬유아세포에 대한 세포 독성, MMP-8 collagenase 억제 활성 검사를 실시하였다. 그 결과 30 % 에탄올 사매추출물을 섬유아세포에 처리한 결과 세포 독성이 없었고, 20 %의 MMP-8 collagenase 억제 활성을 보였다. 사매 추출물 1 %가 함유된 Di-Wrinkle Free Cream (DWFC)으로부터 35 ~ 50세의 21명 여성을 대상으로 하루에 2번 도포하여 8주간 인체 안전성과 주름개선 임상평가를 수행하였다. 주름 평가 방법은 3차원 입체 측정기(PRIMOS)를 이용하여 평가를 하였다. DWFC에 대한 안전성 평가는 피험자 방문 시 마다 이상반응, 부종, 인설, 가려움, 자통, 작열감, 뻣뻣함, 따끔거림이나 다른 이상반응이 발생하는지 육안평가와 문진으로 평가하였다. PRIMOS(GFM, Germany)를 이용하여 눈 주변의 주름을 분석한 결과 시험제품 사용 8주 후 통계적으로 유의하게 주름이 13 % 감소하였으며, 시험기간 동안 특별한 피부 이상반응은 관찰되지 않았다. 이와 같은 결과로 보아 사매추출물은 인체에 부작용이 없는 주름개선에 효과 있는 화장품으로 개발이 가능할 것으로 사료된다.

콜라겐은 포유동물의 가장 풍부한 동물성 단백질로, 전체 단백질의 약 30 %를 차지하며, 결합 조직에 존재하며 대부분의 장기의 구조적 지지에 기여한다. Tripeptide (glycine-proline-hydroxyproline; INCI name Tripeptide-29)는 collagen type I의 주성분이며, palmitoyl tripeptide (palmitoyl-glycine-proline-hydroxyproline; INCI name Palmitoyl Tripeptide-29)는 콜라겐의 합성을 촉진하는 항노화 물질로서 디자인된 합성소재이다. 합성된 펩타이드 유도체는 HPLC를 이용하여 분석하였다. in vitro test를 통하여 콜라겐합성과 섬유아세포 증식 효능을 확인하였고, 비침습적 기기를 사용하여 피검자에 대한 8주간의 적용결과 피부주름과 탄력의 상당한 개선을 확인하였다. Palmitoyl tripeptide는 우수한 항노화 효능을 갖는 화장품 소재로 사료된다.

건강한 피부 기능의 악화 원인으로는 콜라겐 섬유 감소, 탄력섬유 변성, 활성산소종의 과다 생성 등이 있다. 이로 인하여 피부 탄력 저하나 주름이 생성된다. 피부 탄력 저하 및 주름 생성과 같은 피부 노화를 개선하기 위해 대표적으로 비타민 A, C 및 그 유도체들이 화장품에 적용되고 있지만 화학적 불안정성의 문제점이 있어 새로운 유도체들의 합성 개발에 노력을 기울이고 있다. 본 연구에서는 피부개선을 위한 화장품 원료로 최근 비타민 C로부터 새롭게 합성된 3-O-cetyl-L-ascorbic acid (VCCE)의 주름 개선과 관련된 효능·효과를 평가하였다. VCCE의 in vitro 실험 결과 procollagen type Ⅰ의 합성을 0.002 %에서 최대 149 % 증가시켰다. 또한 인체적용시험에서 일차적으로 폐쇄 첩포 실험 결과 자극이 유발되지 않았으며, 모사판 분석 및 PRIMOS system을 이용한 주름측정결과에서도 주름개선효과를 확인하였다. 결과적으로, VCCE는 주름 개선을 위한 화장품 성분으로서 높은 응용 가치를 제시한다.