According to previous reports, antioxidant activities of Codonopsis lanceolata could be increased by a steaming process. This study was performed to improve its antioxidant activity and skin whitening activities of C. lanceolata by high pressure and stepwise steaming complex process. The complex processed C. lanceolata showed highest free radical scavenging acitivity as 45.21%, and for phenol and flavonoid contents, complex processed C. lanceolata contained higher than those from conventional extraction process or steaming process alone. The Cytotoxicity of all C. lanceolata extracts also showed low cytotoxicity against human fibroblast cell (CCD-986sk) as 4.49 ~ 10.40%. In whitening activity, high inhibition of tyrosinase activity was estimated as 25.08% by adding the extracts from complex process. We found that whitening and antioxidant activity of complex processed C. lancolata extract was higher than those obtained from conventional extraction and a steaming process because various kinds of antioxidant compounds could be easily released by combined process, compared to one of each process.

The antioxidant activity and whitening effect of the distilled water (DW) and ethanol extracts of the Prunus persica flower and calyx were studied. In the oxygen radical absorption capacity (ORAC) assay for antioxidant activity measurement, it was confirmed that the flower extract was stronger than the calyx extract, and that the ethanol extract was relatively stronger than the DW extract. To define the whitening effect, an experiment was conducted involving tyrosinase inhibitory assay and measurement of the melanin content of B16F10. As a result of the use of tyrosinase, the DW extract of calyx showed 53% inhibition as the highest activity. The melanin content inhibitory rates were defined as 57% for the ethanol flower extract and 63% of the ethanol calyx extract, based on a 10 μg/mL concentration. Based on these results, mixture with the whitening effect in the extract of P. persica and another compounds should be researched for development as a cosmetic ingredient.

The Forsythiae Fructus is an oriental medicine containing various lignans. In this study, the Forsythiae Fructus were extracted by hot water (Sample 1), hot water after bio-conversion using Lactobacillus strain (Sample 2-LP2, 2-LA, 2-LC, 2-LL, 2-BL and 2-LM) and 70% ethanol (Sample 3). Total polyphenol and flavonoid contents were improved by bio-conversion process using Lactobacillus strain, compared to water extract. Especially, sample 2-LL and 2-LA which had shown the high total polyphenol and flavonoid content in antioxidant activity. Also, sample 2-LL and 2-LA showed higher melanin generation inhibitory activity as of 55%, 53% in maximum extract concentration of 100μg/ml. In the anti-inflammation test of the Forsythiae Fructus extracts, nitric oxide (NO) synthesis was inhibited. Specially, both 70% Forsythiae Fructus ethanol extract and sample 2-BL which have shown the relatively higher 1,1-diphenyl-2-picryl-hydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging and superoxide dismutase (SOD) like activities. In conclusion, the Forsythiae Fructus extracts with bio-conversion process has effect of skin whitening and anti-inflammation activity than other extracts. It could be used as a valuable materials for functional cosmetics.

In this study, we investigated antioxidant activities and whitening effects of Acer mono sap by encapsulation of nanoparticles. Acer mono sap was through ultra high pressure process and then encapsulated by lecithin. Nano-encapsulated The nanoparticles of Acer mono sap showed highest free radical scavengering effect as 89.7% in adding sample (1.0 mg/ml), compared to sap of non-encapsulation. It was showed strong inhibition effect on melanin production test by Clone M-3 cells as 47.8%. High inhibitory of tyrosinase was also measured as 85.8% by adding lecithin nano-particle of 1.0 mg/ml. The nano-particles also showed 14.8% of low cytotoxicity against human normal fibroblast cells in adding 1.0 mg/ml of the highest concentration. These results indicate that Acer mono sap may be a source of cosmetic agents capable of improving whitening effect and antioxidant activites.

This study was performed to assess the antioxidant activities and whitening effects of Agrimonia pilosa Ledeb on melanin synthesis. The whitening effects of Agrimonia pilosa Ledeb water extracts were examined by in vitro mushroom tyrosinase assay and B16BL6 melanoma cells. We assessed inhibitory effect of Agrimonia pilosa Ledeb water extract on expression of melanogenic enzyme proteins including tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1) and tyrosinase-related protein 2 (TRP-2) in B16BL6 cells. Inhibitory effect of Agrimonia pilosa Ledeb onto free radical generation was determined by measuring DPPH and hydroxyl radical scavenging activitie. Our results indicated that Agrimonia pilosa Ledeb water extract effectively inhibited free radical generation. In DPPH and hydroxy radical scavenging activity, Agrimonia pilosa Ledeb water extract had a potent anti-oxidant activity in a dose-dependent manner. They significantly inhibited tyrosinase activity in vitro and in B16BL6 melanoma cells. Also, Agrimonia pilosa Ledeb suppressed the expression of tyrosinase in B16BL6 melanoma cells. These results show that Agrimonia pilosa Ledeb inhibited melanin production on the melanogenesis. The underlying mechanism of Agrimonia pilosa Ledeb on whitening activity may be due to the inhibition of tyrosinase activity. We suggest that Agrimonia pilosa Ledeb may be useful as new natural active ingredients for antioxidant and whitening cosmetics.

In this study, whitening activity of Lithospermum erythrorhizon extracts were investigated according to several extraction processes: water extraction at 100℃ (WE100) and 60℃ (WE60), 70% ethyl alcohol extraction (EE) and ultra high pressure extraction (HPE) at 500 MPa for 30 minutes at 60℃. The extracts from ultra high pressure extraction showed the highest tyrosinase inhibition and melanogenesis inhibition activities as 52% and 79.5%, respectively, in adding 1mg/ml than others extraction processes. HPE extracts also showed the strong reducing power as 3.19 that absorbance at 450 mm. The contents of polyphenol in WE100, we measured as 10.1μg/ml in adding 1mg/ml. Extracts have a high total flavonoid contents by HPE as 4.1μg/ml at 1mg/ml. We can conclude that better whitening activity of extracts from high pressure extraction was due to high antioxidant activities which could be extracted by higher polyphenol and flavonoid contents in HPE than others.

본 연구에서는 참죽나무 새순 추출물의 항산화 효능과 tyrosinase 저해 활성을 측정함으로써 기능성 화장품에서의 이용 가능성을 평가하였다. 참죽나무 새순 추출물의 free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) 저해활성(FSC50)은 ethyl acetate 분획(3.54 μg/mL)과 aglycone 분획(2.15 μg/mL) 모두 지용성 항산화제인 (+)-α-tocopherol(8.98 μg/mL)에 비해 우수한 활성을 나타내었다. 또한 luminol 화학발광법을 이용한 Fe3+-EDTA/H2O2 계에서 생성된 활성산소종(reactive oxygen species, ROS)에 대한 참죽나무 추출물의 총항산화능은 추출물의 ethyl acetate 분획(0.15 μg/mL)과 aglycone 분획(0.12 μg/mL)에서 모두 L-ascorbic acid (1.50 μg/mL) 보다 약 10배 더 큰 것으로 나타내었다. Rose-bengal로 증감된 사람 적혈구의 광용혈에 대한 참죽나무 새순 추출물의 억제 효과를 측정하였을 때 ethyl acetate 분획과 aglycone 분획 모두 농도 의존적(5 ~ 25 μg/mL)으로 세포보호 효과를 나타내었다. Tyrosinase의 활성 저해 효과(IC50)는 참죽나무 새순 추출물의 ethyl acetate 분획과 aglycon 분획에서 각각 48.00μg/mL, 5.88 μg/mL으로 나타났으며 aglycone 분획의 경우 강력한 미백제인 arbutin (226.88 μg/mL)에 비해 약 40배 정도 더 우수한 활성을 갖는다. 이상의 결과들은 참죽나무 새순 추출물이 활성산소종을 소거하고 활성산소종에 대항하여 세포막을 보호함으로써 생체계, 특히 태양 자외선에 의해 손상된 피부에서 항산화제로서 작용할 수 있음을 가리키며, tyrosinase 저해활성으로부터 미백 기능성 화장품원료로서 응용 가능성이 있음을 시사한다.

Enhancement effect of ultrasonification process on UV-protection and skin-whitening activities using Centella asiatica L. Urban extract was investigated. Cytotoxicity of the extracts measured on human skin fibroblast cells, CCD-986sk, and then, ultrasonification associated extracts showed 5~9% lower cytotoxicity then normal crude extracts on 1.0 mg/ml of highest sample concentration. The associated extrats showed highest inhibition activity of hyaluronidase on 1.0 mg/ml of concentration as 54.2%. Also, the associated extract reduced expression of MMP-1 on UV-irradiated CCD-986sk cells down to 100.2% from 136.1%, and revealed high inhibitory potency on tyrosinase as 74.6% by adding 1.0 mg/ml of concentration. Ultrasonification associated extract showed strong inhibition effect of melanin production on Clone M-3 cells as 84.2% by adding 1.0 mg/ml of concentration. From the preliminary observations, we considered that the extracts from C. asiatica could be potent natural materials for skin-whitening and anti-aging agent, and could enhance the activities by ultrasonification process.

본 연구는 상백피 추출물의 화장품 약리활성인 항산화 활성과 미백 효과를 탐색하기 위해 열수추출물과 에탄올추출물을 사용하여 전자공여능, ABTS, xanthine oxidase 저해활성, nitric oxide radical 소거능 및 tyrosinase 저해 활성을 측정하였다. 상백피 추출물의 전자공여능 측정결과 1,000 μg/ml에서 열수추출물은 65.8%, 에탄올추출물은 87%의 DPPH radical 소거능을 보였다. ABTS 라디칼 소거능은 1,000 μg/ml에서 열수추출물은 89.3%, 에탄올추출물은 77.1%로 높은 소거능을 보였다. Xanthine oxide 저해활성은 1,000 μg/ml에서 열수추출물은 100%, 에탄올추출물은 96.2%를 보여 높은 항산화 효과를 나타내었다. NO 소거능은 500 μg/ml에서 열수추출물은 43.5%, 에탄올추출물은 53%를 나타내었는데 이는 같은 농도에서 대조구인 BHA의 43.8%와 유사하였다. Tyrosinase 저해활성은 1,000 μg/ml에서 열수추출물은 79.6%, 에탄올추출물은 93.5%로 나타나 대조구인 비타민 C와 유사한 활성을 보여 미백효과가 우수하였다. 모든 실험에서 활성정도가 시료 농도가 증가함에 따라 유의적으로 증가하는 경향이었으며, ABTS 저해활성을 제외하고 대부분의 실험에서 에탄올추출물이 열수추출물에 비해 다소 높은 활성을 보였다.

자외선에 노출된 피부는 활성산소종을 형성한다. 이는 피부의 염증 반응을 야기시키며 콜라겐 생성 억제를 통해 피부 노화를 촉진시킨다. 본 연구에서는 2종류의 항산화성 미네랄 바이오 활성수1과 2(MIBA-W1, MIBA-W2)를 이용하여 항염증 및 항노화 기초 효능과 함께 미백효능을 측정하였다. 두 종류 MIBA-W 모두가 UV에 의해 증가된 TNF-α를 상당량 줄여주는 것으로 나타나 항염증 효능이 있는 것이 확인되었다. 한편 UVB에 의해 감소되는 콜라겐 합성량은 MIBA-W1에 의해 0.01 % 농도에서 대조군 수준으로 증가하였으나 MIBA-W2는 농도가 증가할수록 콜라겐 합성량이 증가하는 경향을 보였다. 한편 MIBA-W2는 α-MSH로 처리된 B16-F1 melanoma 세포에서의 멜라닌 합성을 억제하는 것이 관찰되었다. MIBA-W2 의 경우 고형분 0.001 % (부피비 5 %)의 농도에서 α-MSH에 의한 멜라닌의 합성을 α-MSH positive control 대비 약 50 % 감소시키는 효과를 보였다. 종합하면 두 종류의 MIBA-W는 항염증 효능과 미백기능을 가지는 피부생리활성을 가지고 있는 것이 확인되었으며 따라서 기능성화장품 소재로 개발될 수 있는 가능성을 보였다.

천연물로부터 미백활성 성분의 개발을 위하여 국내 자생식물 60종으로부터 추출물을 얻어, 이들의 멜라닌 생성과정의 주된 효소인 tyrosinase 활성 억제력을 평가하였다. 평가결과 노랑하늘타리(열매), 죽황, 누리장나무(잎), 우산고로쇠(잎) 추출물이 비교적 높은 tyrosinase 활성억제효과를 보였고, 이들의 IC50 값은 50 ∼ 100 µg/mL 이었다. 이들의 멜라닌생성 억제효과를 B16F10 흑색종세포주를 이용하여 실험한 결과, 죽황추출물이 가장 높은 52 %의 멜라닌생성 저해활성을 보였으며, 이는 기존 미백제인 arbutin (42 %)에 비해 10 % 높은 것이다. 죽황추출물로부터 용매추출 및 크로마토그래피 등의 분리과정을 거쳐 10가지 미백활성 성분을 분리하였다. 이들은 모두 페놀유도체 화합물로서, SM701과 SM702, SM703, BPR211은 hydroquinone계 화합물이며, SM707은 gallic acid계, SM704와 SM705, SM706, SM708, SM709는 ferulic acid계로 확인되었다. 이들의 유리기 소거효과를 hydorquinone과 비타민 C와 비교하여 측정하였을 때. SC50 값이 SM702와 SM709의 경우 60 ∼ 70 µM로 hydroquinone과 유사하였고, SM701과 SM708은 30 ∼ 40 µM로 비타민 C (45 µM)보다 낮은 값을 보여 죽황추출물은 항산화활성이 높은 성분들을 함유하고 있음을 확인하였다. 이들 중 1,2-O-diferulylglycerol로 확인된 SM709 성분은 tyrosine hydroxylase 및 DOPA oxidase 활성을 각각 18, 60 % 억제하였고, B16F10 흑색종세포주를 이용한 멜라닌생성량 억제시험에서 62 %의 저해효과를 나타내 가장 높은 미백활성을 보였다. 따라서 죽황추출물의 미백활성은 주로 멜라닌 생성과정의 DOPA oxidsae 저해효과와 항산화효과에 의해 나타나는 것으로 생각된다.