쇠검은머리쑥새(Emberiza yessoensis)는 국내 및 중국, 일 본 등에서 월동하는 겨울철새로, 이들의 번식지는 국내를 제외한 러시아, 몽골, 중국, 일본의 일부지역에 분포하는 것으 로 알려져 왔다. 그러나 최근 국내 번식 사례가 최초로 관찰되 어, 이후 이들 개체군을 보전하기 위한 기초연구 필요성이 대두되었다. 쇠검은머리쑥새는 국제자연보전연맹(IUCN)에 서 준위협(NT)종으로 취급되고 있으며, 국내의 경우 멸종위 기야생생물 II급으로 지정되어있다. 이들의 국내 서식지는 현재까지 지속적으로 감소하고 있어, 월동 및 번식개체군 모두 위협받고 있는 것으로 판단된다. 그럼에도 불구하고 개체군 크기, 서식지 면적 등 이들의 정확한 국내 개체군 기초정보는 현재까지 알려지지 않아 이들의 멸종위기 위험정 도를 객관적으로 파악하는데 어려움이 있다. 우리의 연구목 적은 쇠검은머리쑥새의 국내 멸종위기 등급을 판정하는데 도움을 줄 수 있는 유전정보를 제공하는 것이다. 우리는 이를 위해 10개 이상의 microsatellite 분자표지자를 개발하고 있 다. 현재까지 29개의 분자표지자를 디자인 하였으며, 10개의 다형성을 나타내는 microsatellite 유전자좌를 관찰하였다. 이 중 4개 유전자좌의 유전다양성을 경기 안산지역에 서식중 인 32개체의 쇠검은머리쑥새 번식개체군을 대상으로 분석한 결과, 대립유전자수(A)는 2~16개, 관찰이형접합빈도(HO)와 기대이형접합빈도(HE)는 각각 0.06~0.78, 0.12~0.90의 범위 를 나타냈다. 향후 10개 이상의 microsatellite 분자표지자를 개발하여 쇠검은머리쑥새 번식개체군의 유전다양성 및 유전 구조를 파악 할 것이며, 이를 통해 개체군 기초정보가 알려져 있지 않은 국내 쇠검은머리쑥새 번식개체군 보전방안 수립을 위한 객관적인 기준을 제시할 것이다. 이 연구에서 개발한 microsatellite 분자표지자는 국내뿐만 아니라 국외에 서식중 인 쇠검은머리쑥새 개체군 보전 연구에 유용하게 활용될 것이다.

We studied growth and physiological responses of Ambrosia trifida L. under the different light condition. Ambrosia trifida L. is Korean invasive species. For study, we selected the two spot (T1 and T2) in the Kongju National University. In each spots, we investigated growth and physiological responses in the more light environment (L) and in the less light environment (S). it makes 4 research spot (T1-L, T1-S, T2-L and T2-S). and first, we estimate light intensity (Lux) in each research spots. then take data on the growth responses which are a shoot height, a number of leaves, a leaf width and a leaf length. Also, we get some physiological data which are a photosynthetic rate, a transpiration rate, a stomata conductance, water use efficiency, chlorophyll content, photochemical efficiency of photosystem II (Fv/Fm). And, analysed them by using one-way ANOVA. As a results, the shoot height, No. of leaves, Leaf width and Leaf length were recorded relatively high in the spot of the most light quantity and in the spot of the least light quantity. In the physiological responses, the more light quantity was increased, the more photosynthetic rate, transpiration rate and stomatal conductance were increased. Fv/Fm, the photochemical efficiency of photosystem II, was the least recorded in the spot of the most light quantity. These results show Ambrosia trifida grow well in the spot of the most and the least light quantity but it grown in the shade has the less environmental stress.l

Hypsizygus marmoreus (Peck) H.E. Bigelow is a typical white-rot fungus and is widely cultivated in China and Japan. In this study, the genome of a monokaryon strain HM26-F1 was sequenced using Illumina and Pacbio platforms. The genome sequences of 32,238,363 bp with 49.40% G+C content were obtained and 14,443 gene models coding for proteins were determined. The divergence time was 144 million years ago (MYA) and diverged from other fungi belonging to Agaricales around the late of Jurassic Period. 363 carbohydrate-active enzymes (CAZymes) genes were detected in this genome. And there were higher number of class II peroxidases (11) and multicopper oxidases (22) for degrading lignin. In addition, 418 genes were enriched involving in purine metabolism for IMP and GMP synthesis. And, there were 7 secondary metabolite clusters in the genome, including 3 terpene, 2 polyketide biosynthase, 1 nonribosomal peptide synthetase and 1 siderophore. Combining Hiseq 2500 and Pacbio platforms resulted in a more complete and less fragmented genome. H. marmoreus had high abilities to degrade lignocellulose. IMP and GMP may be the basis of the crab flavor. Information obtained from this study enhances our knowledge about degradation mechanisms of lignocellulose and secondary metabolism.

The antioxidant and antitumor properties of natural products, often recognized in traditional medicine systems, represent therapeutic modalities to reduce or prevent uncontrolled oxidation processes which in turn potentially ameliorate or tumor based symptoms of chronic diseases. We have studied the antioxidant and antitumor effects of Amanita muscaria (A. muscaria) in vitro and examined whether the A. muscaria has synergistic effects on antioxidant and antitumor properties. Although A. muscaria induced a dose-dependent increase in antioxidant activity, the latter has a consistently higher antioxidant effect. In mouse monocytes, the lipopolysaccharide- (LPS-) induced tumor necrosis- (TNF-) synthesis was significantly inhibited by A. muscaria in a dose dependent manner and synergistic effects were clearly demonstrated with the A. muscaria on TNF- inhibition. A. muscaria effect was also evident on inhibition of nuclear factor-kappa B activity, cyclooxygenase-II activity, and lipid peroxidation in mouse monocytes. This presented results may be a starting point for a comprehensive characterization of biological effects of A. muscaria.

2014년 12월 사용 승인된 경주 중저준위 방사성폐기물 동굴처분시설은 중저준위 방사성폐기물의 처분을 위해 운영중이나 중준위 방사성폐기물을 처분할 수 없다. 왜나하면 기존 중준위 방사성폐기물이 원자력안전위원회 고시 2014-003호에 따라 방사성폐기물 준위가 세분화되었으며, 기존의 중저준위 방사성폐기물 핵종별 처분농도제한치 값이 변경되었으나 이를 고려 하지 못하였기 때문이다. 중준위 방사성폐기물의 안전한 처분을 위해 IAEA에서 제시한 방법론과는 달리 방사능량 산출 시 적용된 가용데이터를 기반으로 기존의 설정된 극저준위 및 저준위 방사성폐기물의 처분농도제한치를 고려하여 1단계 동굴 처분시설의 중준위 방사성폐기물에 대한 처분농도제한치를 설정하였다. 단, 14C의 경우 처분농도제한치 외에 추가적인 방사 능량 제한이 필요함을 확인하고 우물이용시나리오를 통해 1단계 동굴처분시설의 총방사능량을 제한하였다. 설정된 중준위 방사성폐기물 처분농도제한치와 14C의 총방사능량이 적용된 방사능량에 대해 운영 중 및 폐쇄 후 시나리오의 평가결과가 모 두 성능목표치를 만족함을 확인하여, 도출된 중준위 방사성폐기물 처분농도제한치가 1단계 동굴처분시설의 중준위 방사성 폐기물 처분농도제한치로 사용할 수 있음을 확인하였다. 처분 안전성 증진을 위해 방사성폐기물 발생기관의 데이터를 추가 확보하며, 14C의 누적방사능량을 관리해 나갈 계획이다.

소수성 유기실리콘 그룹에 친수성 극성 그룹이 결합되어 있는 유기실리콘 계면활성제는 유 기실리콘의 독특한 특성으로 인하여 낮은 계면장력, 윤활성, 퍼짐성, 발수성, 열 안정성, 화학적 안정성 때문에 폴리우레탄 폼, 건설재료, 화장품, 페인트잉크, 농약 등 많은 산업분야에 사용되고 있다. 특히 소수기로 저분자 실록산을 가지고 있는 유기실리콘 계면활성제는 낮은 표면장력과 우수한 습윤/퍼짐성 때문에 super wetter/super spreader로서 활용되고 있으나 가수분해가 되는 취약한 단점도 가지고 있다. 저분자 실록산 계면활성제의 기능향상과 단점개선 등 응용분야에서의 요구사항을 반영하기 위하여 다양 한 화학구조를 가진 저분자 실록산 계면활성제들이 개발되고 있다. 본 총설에서는 반응성 테트라실록산 과 다이실록산의 합성방법, 반응성 테트라실록산 또는 다이실록산을 친수성 그룹과 결합시키는 규소수소 화반응 같은 주요 합성방법, 그리고 폴리에테르, 카보하이드레이트, 제미니, 볼라 타입 등 구조를 가지는 테트라실록산 계면활성제와 다이실록산 계면활성제들의 합성방법을 논의한다.

It is well-known that cultivated wild Panax ginseng has anti-inflammatory effect. However, a comparative study on cultivation period vs biofunctionality is currently lacking. In this study, 70% ethanol extracts of 3-years (yrs)-, 5-yrs-, or 7-yrs-old cultivated wild ginseng were evaluated for their inhibitory effects on RAW264.7 murine macrophages. Specifically, the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines (interleukin-6 [IL-6] and tumor necrosis factor-alpha [TNF-α]), the expression of surface proteins (CD80, CD86, and MHC-II), and the phagocytic properties were investigated. RAW264.7 cells were induced by 500 ng/mL of lipopolysaccharide (LPS) and treated with 0.1, 1, and 10 ppm of samples. LPS-induced IL-6, TNF-α and surface proteins in all samples were downregulated in a dose-dependent manner. Both IL-6 and TNF-α were significantly reduced at 10 ppm of the 7-yrsold sample compared to 10 ppm of 3-yrs- and 5-yrs-old samples. CD80 and CD86 were also reduced at 10 ppm of all samples, and there was no difference among samples. The phagocytosis has no difference except in 10 ppm of 3 yr-old sample. The results suggest that cultivated wild ginseng extract has anti-inflammatory effect without decreasing phagocytosis.

To increase the productivity of in vitro development, the antioxidants have been used for culture system of bovine oocytes and embryos. However, comparative studies on these molecules are rare and direct beneficial effects on blastocyst production cannot be discriminated for best results. The study was conducted to determine the influence of N-acetyl-L-cysteine (NAC), N-acetyl-L-cysteine amide (NACA), glutathione (GSH) and cysteamime (CYS) on maturation competence of COCs from GV to MII stage and productivity of blastocyst formation during in vitro fertilization and culture. There was no difference among maturation rates of oocytes to metaphase II with polar body with antioxidants for any of the treatment groups (p>0.05). However, the significant improvement on the rate of blastocysts (32.3±5.0%) was found in 0.1 mM CYS treatment than 0.3 mM NAC, 0.2 mM NACA or 0.5mM GSH (p<0.05). The addition of NAC (18.8±3.7%) or NACA (21.2±3.9%) did not improve development competence to morula and blastocysts than control (24.4±4.1%) and GSH (26.5±5.0%) (p>0.05). Our study showed that medium supplementation with CYS during IVM and IVC improved the rate of bovine embryo development but not with NAC, NACA and GSH addition.

고준위폐기물을 처분하기 위한 심층 처분시설은 지하 500~1,000 m 깊이의 암반층에 설치된다. 심층 처분시스템의 구성 요 소로는 처분용기, 완충재, 뒷채움 및 근계 암반이 있다. 이 중 완충재는 심층 처분시스템에 있어 필수적인 요소인데, 완충재 는 지하수 유입으로부터 처분용기를 보호하고, 방사성 핵종 유출을 저지한다. 처분용기에서 발생하는 고온의 열량은 완충 재로 전파되기에 완충재의 열물성은 처분시스템의 안정성 평가에 상당히 중요하다고 할 수 있다. 완충재의 열전도도 규명 에 대한 연구는 많이 진행되고 있는 반면, 비열에 대한 연구는 미진한 상태이다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 국내 경주산 압축 벤 토나이트 완충재(KJ-II)에 대한 비열 추정 모델을 개발하고자 하였다. 압축 벤토나이트 완충재의 비열은 이중 탐침법을 이용 하여 다양한 포화도와 건조밀도에 따라 측정하였으며, 총 33개의 실험 데이터를 토대로 회귀분석을 이용하여 경주 압축 벤 토나이트의 비열을 추정할 수 있는 모델을 제시하였다.

The purpose of this study is to confirm whether spontaneous adipocyte generation during chondrogenic induction culture affects the chondrogenic differentiation of porcine skin-derived stem cells (pSSCs). For this purpose, chondrogenic differentiation characteristics and specific marker gene expression were analyzed using cell lines showing different characteristics of spontaneous adipocyte formation. Of the four different lines of pSSCs, the pSSCs-IV line showed higher Oil red O (ORO) and glycosaminoglycan (GAG) extraction levels. Quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction (qRT-PCR) analysis revealed that the levels of adipogenic markers peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor gamma 2 (PPARγ2) and adipocyte Protein 2 (aP2) mRNAs were significantly higher in pSSCs-IV than those of the other pSSC lines (P<0.05). Among three chondrogenic markers, collagen type II (Col II) and sex determining region Y-box (Sox9) mRNAs were strongly expressed in pSSCs-IV (P<0.05), but not in aggrecan (Agg), which was significantly higher in pSSCs-II (P<0.05). These results demonstrate that the spontaneous adipocyte generation during chondrogenic differentiation has a positive effect on the chondrogenesis of pSSCs. More research is needed on the correlation between adipocyte generation and cartilage formation.

Yi, So Young. 2017. “Social and stylistic variation in vowel raising in Seoul Korean”. The Sociolinguistic Journal of Korea 25(3). 165~197. The purpose of this study is to examine extralinguistic factors that influence vowel raising of /o/ in constituent-final -ko and -to in Seoul Korean, focusing mainly on the influence of social variations and stylistic variations on this phenomenon. The Sociolinguistic interview data showed that older speakers used the most raised variant of /o/ in the AP-medial position, which is evidence for age-grading for the following reasons: (i) the linguistic marketplace, which is an important concept in age-grading, supports this idea because older people use the non-standard form of /o/, which is the raised variant, after they leave the workforce, and (ii) the unraised variant does not push out the raised variant, but rather, they co-exist. In addition, stylistic variations related to the formality of the speech setting and the solidarity between interactants affect the vowel, leading to vowel raising (i) in casual speech situation and (ii) in interaction with an addressee with whom the speaker is intimate; these trends are especially salient for younger speakers.

In most mammals, metaphase II (MII) oocytes having high maturation promoting factor (MPF) activity have been considered as good oocytes and then used for assisted reproductive technologies including somatic cell nuclear transfer (SCNT). Caffeine increases MPF activity in mammalian oocytes by inhibiting p34cdc2 phosphorylation. The objective of this study was to investigate the effects of caffeine treatment during in Vitro maturation (IVM) on oocyte maturation and embryonic development after SCNT in pigs. To this end, morphologically good (MGCOCs) and poor oocytes (MPCOCs) based on the thickness of cumulus cell layer were untreated or treated with 2.5 mM caffeine during 22-42, 34-42, or 38-42 h of IVM according to the experimental design. Caffeine treatment for 20 h during 22-42 h of IVM significantly inhibited nuclear maturation compared to no treatment. Blastocyst formation of SCNT embryos was not influenced by the caffeine treatment during 38-42 h of IVM in MGCOCs (41.1-42.1%) but was significantly improved in MPCOCs compared to no treatment (43.4 vs. 30.1%, P<0.05). No significant effects of caffeine treatment was observed in embryo cleavage (78.7-88.0%) and mean cell number in blastocyst (38.7-43.5 cells). The MPF activity of MII oocytes in terms of p34cdc2 kinase activity was not influenced by the caffeine treatment in MGCOCs (160.4 vs. 194.3 pg/ml) but significantly increased in MPCOCs (133.9 vs. 204.8 pg/ml). Our results demonstrate that caffeine treatment during 38-42 h of IVM improves developmental competence of SCNT embryos derived from MPCOCs by influencing cytoplasmic maturation including increased MPF activity in IVM oocytes in pigs.

The present study was conducted to investigate the effects on growth performance, nutrient digestibility, and gut health of broiler chickens when a dietary supplementation of multienzymes was added to diets, containing different energy levels. A total of 480 broiler chickens of similar body weight (Ross 308, 1-day-old) were randomly subjected to four treatments. The dietary treatments included a corn-soybean meal-based diet supplemented with: multienzyme (amylase+protease+ mannanase+xylanase+phytase), 0.05% enzyme, and different energy levels (3010 and 3060 kcal/kg). The experimental diets were fed to the chicks in a mash form for 35 days in two phases (1–21 d, phase I; and 22–35 d, phase II). During the overall period, chicks fed with diets supplemented with multienzymes had a better weight gain (p<0.05) and feed conversion ratio (FCR) than those fed with diets without enzymes. There was no difference in the growth rate and FCR among the chicks fed with diets supplemented with enzymes, even though the dietary energy levels were different. The apparent fecal and ileal digestibility of dry matter, gross, crude protein, calcium, and phosphorus were significantly enhanced (p<0.05). The population of cecal and ileal Lactobacillus spp. was significantly increased (p<0.05), and Clostridium spp. and coliforms were significantly decreased (p<0.05) in diets supplemented with enzymes. Villus height and villus height to crypt depth ratio in the small intestine was also significantly enhanced (p<0.05) in diets supplemented with enzymes. In conclusion, multienzyme supplementation had positive effects on the weight gain of broilers, FCR, digestibility of nutrients, and on the growth of intestinal microbiota.

Mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs) are multipotent cells able to differentiate into several cell lineages, which has implications for cell therapy and reproductive biotechnologies. Although MSCs have been isolated from many species, including humans and animals, there is limited data on MSCs from large ruminants, such as bovines. In this study, we tried to isolate and characterize bovine tongue tissue-derived MSCs (boT-MSCs) by investigating phenotype morphology, performing proliferation properties, and determining cell surface marker expression patterns, self-renewal, and differentiation potentials. As a result, the boT-MSCs were successfully isolated by collagenase digestion and maintained proliferative capacity until 20 passages. Moreover, the boT-MSCs expressed pluripotency markers (OCT3/4, SOX2, and NANOG) and MSC-specific surface markers including CD44, CD90, and CD105, but not CD45 and MHC-II. The boT-MSCs could also differentiate into mesodermal (adipocyte, osteocyte, and chondrocyte) cell lineages. Our results suggest that the tongues of bovines could be used as a source of MSCs.

기상이후현상으로 인하여 극지해역을 둘러싸고 있던 해빙이 감소되었고, 항로단축과 자원의 개발 그리고 신사업 등의 극지해역이 지닌 경제적 이점으로 인하여 극지해역으로의 선박 유입량이 증가하게 되었다. 하지만 그동안 극지해역을 운항하는 선박의 안전과 해양환경보호를 위해 존재하였던 국제규범은 상세하지 못하였으며, 법적강제력을 지니지 못한다는 한계를 지녔다. 그러므로 이를 해결한 국제규범이 필요하다는 국제사회의 합의가 도출되었다. 이에따라 국제해사기구(IMO)의 해사안전위원회(MSC)와 해양환경보호위원회(MEPC)를 중심으로 ‘극지해역 운항선박기준(Polar Code)’이 제정되었고, 이는 2017년 1월 1일부로 발효되었다. 극지해역 운항선박기준(Polar Code)은 극지해역의 특수성을 반영한 최초의 상세규범이자 법적강제력을 지닌 강행규범으로서 가치를 지닌다. 극지해역 운항선박기준(Polar Code)의 내용적 구성은 안전조치를 위한 PARTI과 오염방지조치를 위한 PART II로 이루어져있으며, 구조적 구성은 각 PART별로 강행규범인 A편과 권고규범인 B편으로 이루어져있다. 그러므로 이 논문에서는 극지해역 운항선박기준(Polar Code)이 지니는 중요성을 인식한 채, 안전부문, 보안부문, 해양환경보호부문으로 나누어 기준을 면밀히 분석하도록 할 것이다. 이에 따라 극지해역의 특수성을 잘 반영하였는지, 극지해역의 안전과 환경보호라는 목적의 실효성을 충실히 수행할 수 있는지를 중점적으로 살펴볼 것이다. 또한 이러한 과정 속에서 극지해역 운항선박기준(Polar Code)이 지니는 한계점을 살펴보도록 할 것이다. 극지해역으로의 선박유입량이 점차 증가할 것임을 고려할 때, 극지해역의 선박안전과 환경보호에 대한 국제규범이 지니는 중요성 또한 점차 높아질 것으로 사료된다. 따라서 앞에서 살펴본 한계점을 보완할 수 있는 개선방안을 제시하도록 할 것이다.

State of the Art: Sustainability Integration in the Luxury Fashion Industry Introduction to Luxury Fashion ‘Luxury’, which comes from the Latin word ‘luxus’, refers to exaggerated life, glamour, comfort and wealth (Dubois, Czellar & Laurent, 2005). In the ancient world, luxury was associated with wealth, exclusivity, and power. After the 17th century, European countries’ economic democratization contributed to the reduction of existing sumptuary laws. Trade increased and larger segments of the population began to afford luxury products. Consequently, luxury moved from being limited to serve the common good to being a satisfaction of private needs. At the end of the 19th century, following the second industrial revolution, luxury earned its modern meaning of being enjoyable beyond the necessities of life (Fionda and Moore, 2009). The democratization of luxury resulted in mass luxury in which luxury brands have extended themselves to affordable offerings (Cristini et al., 2017). Luxury was long associated with the premium quality (Brun and Castelli, 2013), whereas today the technical reproduction of luxury is indulged by mass-produced brands (Cristini et al, 2017). Thus, one could argue that commercial drivers have taken over the industry whereby executives are increasingly seeking ways to transform creativity into profitability. Accordingly, the luxury market has experienced noticeable growth. The global luxury goods market reached a value of € 1.081B, with a growth rate of 4%, in 2016 (Bain & Company, 2016). Nevertheless, despite growth and high profit margins, the global fashion market is affected by macroeconomic, socio-political and natural events. For example, the short-term doubling in cotton prices brought many problems in 2011. Furthermore, scarce natural resources and rising commodity prices greatly challenge the ability of luxury fashion companies to remain profitable. The new luxury paradigm of being more accessible challenges not only sustainability but also operational aspects. The reputation of the luxury industry suffers from consumer concerns over poor labour standards in production, blood diamonds, irresponsible gold-mining practices and animal cruelty in global production networks (Hennigs et al, 2013; Moore, 2011). We therefore question how and to what extent luxury could play a positive role in our mass-consuming generation to slow down the pace for materialism and to better implement sustainability in globally dispersed production networks. Whilst sociologists, marketing and branding experts, have shown interest in luxury management, researchers in the field of operations and supply chain management have paid little attention to the topic: the first paper in the field appeared less than a decade ago (Brun et al., 2008), and furthermore, as of January 2017, there appear to be only 87 papers published in Scopus-indexed journals with ‘‘supply chain OR oper*’’ AND ‘’luxury’’ in the keywords. Henceforth, the current financial, environmental, economic and cultural crises could be considered significant drivers for how luxury operations could be advanced in the move toward sustainability. The focus of this paper is luxury personal goods such as fashion and accessories. The Relevance of Sustainability for Luxury Fashion Following the supply chain revolution of the 1990’s (Mohanty and Prakash, 2013) and the removal of the Multi-Fibre Arrangement in 2005, the fashion industry has become a global force in production and distribution. Globalisation has led to increasing outsourcing of production by fashion companies to a network of suppliers and subcontractors. The industry is characterized by shorter product life cycles and highly volatile market demand (Choi, 2013) alongside downward price pressure, international sourcing, high product variety and low predictability (Perry and Towers, 2013). To this end, fashion companies rely on sophisticated information and logistics systems to remain competitive in the market. Nonetheless, the fashion industry is somewhat inflexible toward major external changes outside the organizations’ direct control (Kozlowski et al., 2015). There is also a potential conflict between corporate responsibility and overarching commercial pressures in the fashion industry (Perry et al., 2015). According to the definition of sustainable development by The United Nations World Commission on Environment and Development (WCED, 1987), current needs should be met without endangering future generations’ rights to satisfy theirs. Luxury fashion companies must therefore acknowledging resource scarcity and other sustainability issues, and take collective actions for an authentic shift to create unique and sustainable businesses. To be profitable and sustainable, “luxury companies must adjust their definition of excellence that is no longer associated with shallow glamour but with positive engagement and deeper values” (Hennigs et al, 2013, p.33). An Overview of Sustainable Supply Chain Management (SSCM) Sustainability in SCM has captured academics’ interest since the early 1990s. Despite the growing interest, some fundamental issues still need to be addressed to provide novel models. The majority of the practices that make up green supply chain management (GSCM) models are modifications of existing practices (Pagell and Wu, 2009). However, earlier studies also stress that these programs might not be sufficient to become sustainable. Hence, it would be insightful to examine which components and which practices are required to make ‘sustainable’ chains. Social sustainability also requires deeper consideration. Wu and Pagell (2011) investigated how organizations deal with short-term pressures to remain economically viable during sustainability implementation, but did not consider social aspects of sustainability. Lee and Klassen (2008) identified the important drivers and enablers which promote environmental management capabilities in SME suppliers, but did not address social sustainability or specific measures for suppliers’ environmental management capabilities. Zhu and Cote (2004) and Vachon and Klassen (2006) demonstrated how to extend green practices, but again social aspects were not encompassed. Similarly, Caniato et al (2012) identified drivers that push companies to adopt green practices, various practices that could be used to advance environmental sustainability and environmental performance indicators measured by fashion companies. However, the social component was excluded. The recognition of corporate social responsibility (CSR) as a business activity is highlighted by the launch of ISO 26000; nonetheless, as illustrated earlier, extant SCM literature has mostly neglected the social aspects of sustainability. Despite a number of studies on aspects including social responsibility and consumer trust (Castaldo et al., 2008), sustainability reporting (Lozano and Huisingh, 2011), sustainable supply management (Ageron, Gunasekaran, & Spalanzani, 2012), and supplier selection problems (Jia et al., 2015), social issues demand more investigation (Perry and Towers, 2013). Sustaining an efficient global supply chain without compromising social responsibility (Perry et al., 2015). Embedding social and environmental management into SCM is needed yet challenging. Significant progress has been made in studies of the buyer-supplier relationship over the past decades, however despite some notable exceptions on green SCM (Zhu and Cote 2004; Zhu et al. 2008; Yu et al. 2014), the development of SSCM literature appears to focus on a single entity rather than the entire chain or network. Social and environmental performance of suppliers is an area of mounting concern, and collectively, sufficient coordination between supply chain partners is greatly needed. Many small and medium-sized suppliers encounter challenges in responding to environmental pressures due to limited capabilities and available resources (Lee and Klassen, 2008), and the most critical environmental and social issues in supply chains are generated by suppliers located in the second tier or further upstream (Tachizawa and Wong, 2014). Therefore, a holistic examination of the entire chain is required. In this vein, Pagell and Wu (2009) examined the chain as an entirety by explicitly addressing both environmental and social outcomes and by asking what unique behavioural patterns are needed for SSCM. However, the adoption of some of the practices is quite limited, which suggests the existence of additional contingencies. Their study called for future studies to explore the role of specific industries e.g. textiles. To this end, Ho and Choi (2012) investigated why fashion companies go green and evaluated sustainable supply chains. Nevertheless, the study was a single case study and did not consider potential differences in terms of antecedents affecting small and large companies. Curwen et al. (2013), interestingly, sought to document current challenges the fashion and apparel industry faces while developing sustainable apparel. Yet again, an imperative need arises to further explore the connections among product design, production processes and supply chain stages through a multidisciplinary approach. On the whole, the phenomena of sustainability has been interpreted in a variety of ways, ranging from a philosophical perspective to business management approaches (Ahi and Searcy, 2013), but more research is needed to show more than how to be ‘less unsustainable’. Traditional business research must go beyond studies focusing on profit with a rather short-term orientation and instead embrace components of how to create truly sustainable businesses. Considering the aforementioned gaps observed in the extant literature, the following research questions were formulated to investigate the phenomena of social and environmental sustainability at supply chain level within the luxury context, where ethical aspects are becoming increasingly critical for success (Brun and Castelli, 2013). RQ1: How do luxury fashion companies integrate sustainability into their supply networks? RQ2: How do contingent factors impact sustainability integration in luxury fashion supply networks? RQ3: Which behavioural patterns could be used to develop a sustainable supply chain configuration for the luxury fashion industry? Research Methodology Data was drawn from case studies of two Italian supply chains producing luxury silk and leather goods, encompassing 10 companies, with a focus on the individual supply chain as the level of analysis. These two supply chain were theoretically sampled to provide diversity in organizational characteristics and supply network relationships that could explain different approaches to the integration of sustainability into the entire chain. The research design followed Yin (1994) and previous studies in operations and SCM. Face to face interviews were conducted with senior managers of different functions in each supply chain during 2015-16. In most of the companies, responsibility for sustainability was divided and integrated into the jobs of multiple managers, meaning that there was no single individual assigned to sustainability. Additionally, the managers interviewed were often in charge of one or more functions, which helped reduce the number of interviews but increased interview content. The interview topic guide was developed from the literature review, and the theoretical constructs underpinning the interview protocol were then used to create an initial coding scheme for data. Data analysis was done inductively, by developing a framework from the cases while exploiting the theoretical concepts in the categorization of codes. The coding process was followed for all cases as an iterative process to assure consistency. Coding was not considered complete until a consensus was reached on each construct. Data analysis involved within and cross-case analysis. Results: Toward a Framework for Sustainable Luxury Supply Chains This study explored the luxury fashion industry from supply chain and operations management standpoint. Findings revealed seven key categories by which luxury fashion companies integrated environmental and social sustainability into their operations: Category 1: Sustainable product design, Category 2: Operations management, Category 3: Performance measurement, Category 4: Sourcing management, Category 5: Decent work and labour management, Category 6: Commitment to sustainability and organisational perceptions and Category 7: Longevity of suppliers. Firstly, natural resource scarcity was acknowledged by all 10 companies. To this end, some practices, including use of eco-friendly materials, hazardous chemical elimination, textile waste reuse, were applied to the fashion design stage with an attempt to mitigate the environmental impact of subsequent operations. Life cycle assessment (LCA was observed to be a significant tool among sample companies. Nonetheless, higher investment costs to employ more innovative solutions and to advance laboratory tests, higher prices for more ecological materials, and lack of knowledge in terms of fibre and textile components due to supply chain complexity prevented companies from advancing product stewardship. Regarding operations management, water emerged as a significant area where sample companies implemented incremental techniques, including natural tanning, on-site wastewater treatment, water purification and water reuse. Nevertheless, vertical integration, which was getting weaker in the luxury fashion industry, resulted in fashion companies having difficulties in the execution of their suppliers’ environmental performance. Practices implemented in this category were individual company attempts rather than collective action plans. It was not quite feasible to mitigate the environmental impact of independent networks where the buying firm outsourced its business functions to third party suppliers. In order to deal with lack of control and monitoring, sustainability must be understood as a concept to be integrated into the core business strategy with measurable indicators. Furthermore, traceability emerged as a pivotal topic. However, the complexity of global luxury fashion supply chains brought complications. Both supply chains showed that there was lack of knowledge about products’ production history. Due to globalization, countries with low operational costs appeared to leverage their competitive advantage. Changing market conditions resulted in the loss of, for example, silk production in Italy. Silkworm cultivation did not take place in Italy any longer, resulting in confusion regarding outsourced materials’ environmental and social records. High product variety and fragmentation of the production network made it difficult for companies to ensure full traceability. To this end, trust and knowledge transfer were weak, which could be improved to link non-economic goals with financial objectives. Another interesting result was that supplier audits were mostly made within first tier direct suppliers’ facilities. In some cases suppliers were provided with online self-assessment tools that were monitored by buying firms. Yet, buying firms and manufacturers required more efficient inspection methods and more realistic mitigation strategies. Ensuring social sustainability is hindered by complications such as lack of visibility and financial burdens. Consequently, technical and motivational dynamic capability development needed to be proactively initiated by focal companies. As stressed by earlier studies, sustainability must be a shared effort within all functions of a company and across its supply network. Sustainability could be disseminated across the chain only when all supply chain actors, including retailers, suppliers and sub-contractors, connect, understand and collaborate with each other. Correspondingly, it became clear that sustainability management required strong organizational commitment for which an alignment between financial and non-financial goals was greatly required. Hence, education and training activities received growing attention. In conclusion, the sample companies asked their supply chain partners to become sustainable for two main reasons, (i) to make the chain stronger, and (ii) to jointly learn and improve performance. Long-term relationships and supplier stability, as evidenced in the leather supply chains, could cultivate trust, which would result in advanced organizational and operational performance improvements. Supplier engagement and collaboration associated with knowledge dissemination could further enable companies to improve sustainability, and lastly innovation capabilities were imperative.

The New Product Development (NPD) in the textile industry is peculiar, as it follows constraints that are particular to the fashion business. A qualitative study comprising 45 interviews were conducted in a South American textile industry and results showcase that fashion forecast, pressure for newness, and cost reduction are relevant matters. Introduction The textile industry follows a particular cycle for New Product Development (NPD) as it answers the demand from the fashion industry. Fashion supply chain is fragmented, as the production process is fragmented with companies playing different roles in the production cycle. There are companies that uses the raw material to produce yarns that will be transformed into fabrics, which then it is transformed into clothes, through process that may be a single sewing to complex process that demands intermediate process such as industrial washes. These clothes are sold to consumers through various selling channels, such as stores, retailers, e-commerce, and even door-to-door. Usually one company plays only one of these roles in the supply chain, what makes the production plan to be fragmented amongst several different companies in the supply chain (Şen, 2008). After globalization, this supply chain became even more complex as each chain may be located in different parts of the world, due to production costs and optimization. This scenario results in a supply chain that demands several planning skills, that works, sometimes, with extensive production cycles. (Thomassey, 2014). But, as Christopher, Lowson, & Peck (2004) noted, the supply chain in the fashion business must be agile to respond to changes in demand from consumers, which often occurs, and it can be also very complex as clothing is a way for consumers to either differentiate or fit in society, and the rules to be in or out of society patterns changes fast (Cholachatpinyo, Fletcher, Padgett, & Crocker, 2002a, 2002b). Due to this complexity and richness of information, the production cycle in fashion business has been extensively studied in the literature (Alexander & Contreras, 2016; Aung & Sha, 2016; Oxborrow & Brindley, 2014) but authors often use a wide perspective to grasp an overview of the supply chain they are studying, using market data and information, or gathering general information from companies that are present in the fashion supply chain. Authors focused their analysis in the supply chain itself, and we could not find studies that focused on the perspective of the product development task in the challenging context of fashion business. There are some characteristics from the fashion business that differentiate New Product Development (NPD) from a classical Business to Business (B2B) scenario. In a brief description of the fashion business production system, we see that it starts with the production of raw materials that varies from natural fibers (e.g. cotton, silk, linen) or artificial fibers (e.g. polyester, nylon, elastane) that are then spinning into threads that may contain one or more different fibers. These threads are then transformed into fabrics through several different weaving techniques, and then it may go through some finishing treatments (e.g. dying, washing), and then it goes to garment manufacturing where garment makers produce clothes for their own brands or for third-parties brands. These clothes are then sold to consumers through various channels (e.g. retail stores, electronic stores). If we analyze this brief description we can see that fashion may influence in all parts of the production cycle, including the demand for raw materials: if denim products are in vogue, then there is a growing demand for cotton products, if sportswear is in vogue, then the demand improves for artificial fibers, and so on. One other thing that should be noted is that usually each part of the production cycle is performed by a different company: the most common scenario we see in the textile industry includes companies that produce only threads, and sell these threads to textile companies that produce fabrics to sell to garment makers that produces clothes to sell to brands to sell them to consumers. There are some companies that integrates two or more parts of the production cycles but they are the exception, not the rule. This fragmented production process combined with the fashion influence result in long production cycles: a designer’s idea may take from three to eighteen months to be available to consumers, depending on the production channels assessed by the designer. These characteristics showcase how NPD in the fashion business may be complex and therefore it should be investigated further in the literature, and this is the objective of this study. In order to do that, we researched the specific literature in NPD that is vastly discussed in literature as it is responsible for creating, managing and releasing products that are both appealing to customers and profitable to the company. (Brown & Eisenhardt, 1995). Understanding what makes an NP succeed in the market has been on the marketing agenda for a long time, including the fashion business (Alexander & Contreras, 2016; Clarke, 2012; Thompson & Haytko, 1997). One interesting point of view is to understand the predecessors of NP success in the market. Henard & Szymanski (2001) conducted a meta-analysis of 60 studies focused on the antecedents of NP success and proposed a list of 24 predictors of NP performance, which they grouped into four categories: (i) product characteristics, (ii) firm strategy characteristics, (iii) firm process characteristics and (iv) marketplace characteristics. We selected the most relevant predecessors discussed by Henard & Szymanski (2001) and Song & Xie (2000) to use as a basis for a script for interviews with NPD professionals. Methodology We conducted in-depth interviews with 45 professionals from different areas that participate in, or are impacted by, NPD process in a South American textile industry. From now on we will call this company “Southex”. These interviews offered a deep understanding of the perspective of NPD professionals, both insiders (professional that work in the NPD team) or outsiders (professional from departments that work as an internal supplier or client for the NPD team). Southex is one of the biggest textile producers in the world, with producing units in Latin America, commercial offices in Europe, Asia, and America. Sales are over U$ 1 bi/year, and the company employed more than 8,000 people in 2012, when this study was performed. Their main market is Latin America where fashion seasons are in opposition to the ones in the North part of the globe, home of the fashion trendsetters for global macro trends (Europe, USA, and Japan). This leads to a one-year postponement of fashion trends, so when something is released as a fashion trend for summer in Europe, it will be considered a trend for summer one year later in Latin America. Southex NPD team had 12 exclusively dedicated professionals as of 2012. Southex launches products in the market with the concept of collections, when the company releases a group of NPs in the market. Every year, the company releases two collections in the market. It usually takes up to six months for NPD team to complete and launch a new collection. Research into fashion trends, commercial needs and technological improvements available in the market are the main sources the company uses to develop NP. Prior to launching a product in the market, the NPD team needs to test its production process in order to guarantee that the product can be produced on a large scale at competitive costs. Every collection is launched as a sample of fabrics that will be produced 4-6 months in the future. If a collection is released in January, the products that Southex is launching will start to be produced in June. So their clients, mainly garment makers and fashion brands, need to coordinate their production chain to start receiving these fabrics after June. Considering the production cycle in these garment makers, it is estimated that the clothing produced with the fabric launched by Southex in January will be delivered to retail stores (and then available to the consumer) in November, almost one year after Southex has launched the fabric in the market. In order to gather a deep perspective of all matters related to NPD we interview 45 professionals, totaling over 1,600 hours of recorded interviews. 12 insiders, comprising 100% of the team available at that moment, and 33 outsiders from departments such as Marketing, Sales, and Technical Support. Their positions ranged from analysts to directors.. All interviews followed a predefined script of topics. Interviews were transcribed and sent to the corresponding professional for validation, during which they could ask for adjustments. 12 professionals asked for changes in the transcription and we used the changed and approved text, together with the 33 unchanged texts in this analysis. Results and Discussion All texts were then codified according to content, which involved identifying similar topics and applying codes to facilitate analysis of the interviews. Using the predecessors of NP success has facilitated our understanding of the matters related to NPD at Southex. By formatting the presentation of information gathered in the interviews with the predecessors we were able to see the main issues found in NPD. In total, there were 421 mentions codified. After analyzing the codification of the interviews, we can see that Cross function is the main topic addressed by respondents. This is due to the relationship that the flow of NPD activities in the company. As we can see, there were several issues related to the relationship of NP team with the outsiders and that communication amongst insiders and outsiders needs to be improved. There are some context-specific content that appeared as relevant in the analysis of these interviews: insiders are worried with the pressure they feel to forecast fashion preference for products. They say that fashion industry is constantly demanding new technologies, new products, and this has been creating a pressure to accelerate product development they think it is not healthy to the system. Also there is a general worry (insiders and outsiders) with the pressure for price reduction in basic products. Some products are considered basic and are included for several collections (interviewees mentioned that some products are included in more than 15 successive collections) and for these products instead of demanding for innovation, there is a demand for price reduction which leads outsiders to perform tests to substitute materials or changes in the production to reduce costs without prior knowledge from NPD team, which causes several problems in the organization. It is important to point out that even though we used only one company in this study, it was a complete and deep perspective, as we were able to collect high quality data with all 45 professionals that are directly or indirectly related to NPD in the company. Also, as Southex works as a thread and fabric producer, it showed us an insider perspective about the textile supply chain in the fashion business. Even though the exploratory study presented the reality of a firm in an extensive and very detailed way, it may not reflect the full complexity of other organizations in the market; thus, caution is advised if applied in a market that differs deeply from the scenario presented in this study. However, it is also important to remember that this is a qualitative approach where generalization is not expected, and the attention for details is important.

Current seismic design provisions such as ASCE 7-10 provide criteria for selecting ground motions for conducting response history analysis. This study is the sequel of a companion paper (I – Ground Motion Selection) for assessment of the ASCE 7-10 criteria. To assess of the ASCE 7-10 criteria, nonlinear response history analyses of twelve single degree of freedom (SDF) systems and one multi-degree of freedom (MDF) system are conducted in this study. The results show that the target seismic demands for SDF can be predicted using the mean seismic demands over seven and ten ground motions selected according to the proposed method within an error of 30% and 20%, respectively

본 연구에서는 막 결합형 축전식 탈염공정에 적용을 위해 폴리비닐플루오라이드를 고분자 지지체로 사용하여 양이 온 및 음이온교환수지를 배합하여 제작된 불균질 이온교환막을 탄소전극에 결합하여 염 제거 효율을 알아보고자 하였다. 불균 질 이온교환막의 배합 조건은 용매, 고분자 지지체, 이온교환수지를 7 : 2 : 1의 무게 비율로 하였으며 탄소전극에 직접 캐스팅 하였다. 운전조건으로 공급액은 주로 NaCl 수용액에 대하여 흡착전압, 시간, 공급액의 농도, 유속, 탈착전압, 시간 등에 대하여 염 제거 효율을 측정하였으며 이 외에 CaCl2과 MgSO4 수용액에 대하여서도 측정하였다. 대표적으로 NaCl 100 mg/L 용액의 15 mL/min에서 1.5 V, 3분의 흡착조건, -0.1 V, 3분의 탈착조건에서 98%의 염 제거 효율을 보였으며, CaCl2과 MgSO4는 100 mg/L, 15 mL/min에서 1.2 V, 3분의 흡착조건, -0.5 V, 5분의 탈착조건에서 각각 70, 59%의 염 제거 효율을 보였다.

이 연구의 목적은 사범 대학 과학교육학부에 재학 중인 예비 과학 교사들을 대상으로 고등학교에서의 지구과학 선택 과목의 이수 여부와 대학 전공이 일반지구과학 수업에 대한 태도, 학업 성취도에 미치는 영향을 분석하는 것이다. 이 연구의 대상은 광역시 소재 대학교 과학교육학부 소속의 학생들 중 2012년 2학기부터 2015년 2학기까지 총 4개 학 기 동안 일반지구과학 강의를 수강한 273명의 학생들이다. 현재 전공과 고등학교 지구과학 교과목 이수 여부가 일반지 구과학 수업에 대한 태도 및 시험 체감 난이도, 학업 성취도에 미치는 영향을 SPSS 23.0을 활용하여 이원분산분석 (two-way ANOVA)을 실시하였다. 연구 결과에 따르면, 지구과학교육 전공 학생들과 타 과학교육전공 학생들 사이에는 일반지구과학 수업에 대한 태도와 시험 체감 난이도에 대해서 차이가 없었지만, 고등학교에서 지구과학의 이수 여부는 학생들의 태도와 성취도에 영향을 미쳤다. 즉, 고등학교에서 지구과학 I과 지구과학 II를 모두 이수한 학생은 지구과학 I만 이수한 학생 또는 지구과학을 전혀 선택하지 않은 학생들보다 일반지구과학 수업 태도가 더 좋았으며 높은 성취 수 준을 보이는 것으로 분석되었다. 과학 교사를 양성하는 사범 대학의 교육에서는 학생들의 요구와 수준을 반영한 교수학습적 접근이 필요하며, 과학 교사로서 필요한 교과 지식을 효과적으로 학습할 수 있도록 사범 대학 과학과 교육과정의 지속적인 보완이 있어야 할 것이다.