It is well-known that cultivated wild Panax ginseng has anti-inflammatory effect. However, a comparative study on cultivation period vs biofunctionality is currently lacking. In this study, 70% ethanol extracts of 3-years (yrs)-, 5-yrs-, or 7-yrs-old cultivated wild ginseng were evaluated for their inhibitory effects on RAW264.7 murine macrophages. Specifically, the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines (interleukin-6 [IL-6] and tumor necrosis factor-alpha [TNF-α]), the expression of surface proteins (CD80, CD86, and MHC-II), and the phagocytic properties were investigated. RAW264.7 cells were induced by 500 ng/mL of lipopolysaccharide (LPS) and treated with 0.1, 1, and 10 ppm of samples. LPS-induced IL-6, TNF-α and surface proteins in all samples were downregulated in a dose-dependent manner. Both IL-6 and TNF-α were significantly reduced at 10 ppm of the 7-yrsold sample compared to 10 ppm of 3-yrs- and 5-yrs-old samples. CD80 and CD86 were also reduced at 10 ppm of all samples, and there was no difference among samples. The phagocytosis has no difference except in 10 ppm of 3 yr-old sample. The results suggest that cultivated wild ginseng extract has anti-inflammatory effect without decreasing phagocytosis.
To increase the productivity of in vitro development, the antioxidants have been used for culture system of bovine oocytes and embryos. However, comparative studies on these molecules are rare and direct beneficial effects on blastocyst production cannot be discriminated for best results. The study was conducted to determine the influence of N-acetyl-L-cysteine (NAC), N-acetyl-L-cysteine amide (NACA), glutathione (GSH) and cysteamime (CYS) on maturation competence of COCs from GV to MII stage and productivity of blastocyst formation during in vitro fertilization and culture. There was no difference among maturation rates of oocytes to metaphase II with polar body with antioxidants for any of the treatment groups (p>0.05). However, the significant improvement on the rate of blastocysts (32.3±5.0%) was found in 0.1 mM CYS treatment than 0.3 mM NAC, 0.2 mM NACA or 0.5mM GSH (p<0.05). The addition of NAC (18.8±3.7%) or NACA (21.2±3.9%) did not improve development competence to morula and blastocysts than control (24.4±4.1%) and GSH (26.5±5.0%) (p>0.05). Our study showed that medium supplementation with CYS during IVM and IVC improved the rate of bovine embryo development but not with NAC, NACA and GSH addition.
고준위폐기물을 처분하기 위한 심층 처분시설은 지하 500~1,000 m 깊이의 암반층에 설치된다. 심층 처분시스템의 구성 요 소로는 처분용기, 완충재, 뒷채움 및 근계 암반이 있다. 이 중 완충재는 심층 처분시스템에 있어 필수적인 요소인데, 완충재 는 지하수 유입으로부터 처분용기를 보호하고, 방사성 핵종 유출을 저지한다. 처분용기에서 발생하는 고온의 열량은 완충 재로 전파되기에 완충재의 열물성은 처분시스템의 안정성 평가에 상당히 중요하다고 할 수 있다. 완충재의 열전도도 규명 에 대한 연구는 많이 진행되고 있는 반면, 비열에 대한 연구는 미진한 상태이다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 국내 경주산 압축 벤 토나이트 완충재(KJ-II)에 대한 비열 추정 모델을 개발하고자 하였다. 압축 벤토나이트 완충재의 비열은 이중 탐침법을 이용 하여 다양한 포화도와 건조밀도에 따라 측정하였으며, 총 33개의 실험 데이터를 토대로 회귀분석을 이용하여 경주 압축 벤 토나이트의 비열을 추정할 수 있는 모델을 제시하였다.
The purpose of this study is to confirm whether spontaneous adipocyte generation during chondrogenic induction culture affects the chondrogenic differentiation of porcine skin-derived stem cells (pSSCs). For this purpose, chondrogenic differentiation characteristics and specific marker gene expression were analyzed using cell lines showing different characteristics of spontaneous adipocyte formation. Of the four different lines of pSSCs, the pSSCs-IV line showed higher Oil red O (ORO) and glycosaminoglycan (GAG) extraction levels. Quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction (qRT-PCR) analysis revealed that the levels of adipogenic markers peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor gamma 2 (PPARγ2) and adipocyte Protein 2 (aP2) mRNAs were significantly higher in pSSCs-IV than those of the other pSSC lines (P<0.05). Among three chondrogenic markers, collagen type II (Col II) and sex determining region Y-box (Sox9) mRNAs were strongly expressed in pSSCs-IV (P<0.05), but not in aggrecan (Agg), which was significantly higher in pSSCs-II (P<0.05). These results demonstrate that the spontaneous adipocyte generation during chondrogenic differentiation has a positive effect on the chondrogenesis of pSSCs. More research is needed on the correlation between adipocyte generation and cartilage formation.
Yi, So Young. 2017. “Social and stylistic variation in vowel raising in Seoul Korean”. The Sociolinguistic Journal of Korea 25(3). 165~197. The purpose of this study is to examine extralinguistic factors that influence vowel raising of /o/ in constituent-final -ko and -to in Seoul Korean, focusing mainly on the influence of social variations and stylistic variations on this phenomenon. The Sociolinguistic interview data showed that older speakers used the most raised variant of /o/ in the AP-medial position, which is evidence for age-grading for the following reasons: (i) the linguistic marketplace, which is an important concept in age-grading, supports this idea because older people use the non-standard form of /o/, which is the raised variant, after they leave the workforce, and (ii) the unraised variant does not push out the raised variant, but rather, they co-exist. In addition, stylistic variations related to the formality of the speech setting and the solidarity between interactants affect the vowel, leading to vowel raising (i) in casual speech situation and (ii) in interaction with an addressee with whom the speaker is intimate; these trends are especially salient for younger speakers.
In most mammals, metaphase II (MII) oocytes having high maturation promoting factor (MPF) activity have been considered as good oocytes and then used for assisted reproductive technologies including somatic cell nuclear transfer (SCNT). Caffeine increases MPF activity in mammalian oocytes by inhibiting p34cdc2 phosphorylation. The objective of this study was to investigate the effects of caffeine treatment during in Vitro maturation (IVM) on oocyte maturation and embryonic development after SCNT in pigs. To this end, morphologically good (MGCOCs) and poor oocytes (MPCOCs) based on the thickness of cumulus cell layer were untreated or treated with 2.5 mM caffeine during 22-42, 34-42, or 38-42 h of IVM according to the experimental design. Caffeine treatment for 20 h during 22-42 h of IVM significantly inhibited nuclear maturation compared to no treatment. Blastocyst formation of SCNT embryos was not influenced by the caffeine treatment during 38-42 h of IVM in MGCOCs (41.1-42.1%) but was significantly improved in MPCOCs compared to no treatment (43.4 vs. 30.1%, P<0.05). No significant effects of caffeine treatment was observed in embryo cleavage (78.7-88.0%) and mean cell number in blastocyst (38.7-43.5 cells). The MPF activity of MII oocytes in terms of p34cdc2 kinase activity was not influenced by the caffeine treatment in MGCOCs (160.4 vs. 194.3 pg/ml) but significantly increased in MPCOCs (133.9 vs. 204.8 pg/ml). Our results demonstrate that caffeine treatment during 38-42 h of IVM improves developmental competence of SCNT embryos derived from MPCOCs by influencing cytoplasmic maturation including increased MPF activity in IVM oocytes in pigs.
The present study was conducted to investigate the effects on growth performance, nutrient digestibility, and gut health of broiler chickens when a dietary supplementation of multienzymes was added to diets, containing different energy levels. A total of 480 broiler chickens of similar body weight (Ross 308, 1-day-old) were randomly subjected to four treatments. The dietary treatments included a corn-soybean meal-based diet supplemented with: multienzyme (amylase+protease+ mannanase+xylanase+phytase), 0.05% enzyme, and different energy levels (3010 and 3060 kcal/kg). The experimental diets were fed to the chicks in a mash form for 35 days in two phases (1–21 d, phase I; and 22–35 d, phase II). During the overall period, chicks fed with diets supplemented with multienzymes had a better weight gain (p<0.05) and feed conversion ratio (FCR) than those fed with diets without enzymes. There was no difference in the growth rate and FCR among the chicks fed with diets supplemented with enzymes, even though the dietary energy levels were different. The apparent fecal and ileal digestibility of dry matter, gross, crude protein, calcium, and phosphorus were significantly enhanced (p<0.05). The population of cecal and ileal Lactobacillus spp. was significantly increased (p<0.05), and Clostridium spp. and coliforms were significantly decreased (p<0.05) in diets supplemented with enzymes. Villus height and villus height to crypt depth ratio in the small intestine was also significantly enhanced (p<0.05) in diets supplemented with enzymes. In conclusion, multienzyme supplementation had positive effects on the weight gain of broilers, FCR, digestibility of nutrients, and on the growth of intestinal microbiota.
Mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs) are multipotent cells able to differentiate into several cell lineages, which has implications for cell therapy and reproductive biotechnologies. Although MSCs have been isolated from many species, including humans and animals, there is limited data on MSCs from large ruminants, such as bovines. In this study, we tried to isolate and characterize bovine tongue tissue-derived MSCs (boT-MSCs) by investigating phenotype morphology, performing proliferation properties, and determining cell surface marker expression patterns, self-renewal, and differentiation potentials. As a result, the boT-MSCs were successfully isolated by collagenase digestion and maintained proliferative capacity until 20 passages. Moreover, the boT-MSCs expressed pluripotency markers (OCT3/4, SOX2, and NANOG) and MSC-specific surface markers including CD44, CD90, and CD105, but not CD45 and MHC-II. The boT-MSCs could also differentiate into mesodermal (adipocyte, osteocyte, and chondrocyte) cell lineages. Our results suggest that the tongues of bovines could be used as a source of MSCs.
기상이후현상으로 인하여 극지해역을 둘러싸고 있던 해빙이 감소되었고, 항로단축과 자원의 개발 그리고 신사업 등의 극지해역이 지닌 경제적 이점으로 인하여 극지해역으로의 선박 유입량이 증가하게 되었다. 하지만 그동안 극지해역을 운항하는 선박의 안전과 해양환경보호를 위해 존재하였던 국제규범은 상세하지 못하였으며, 법적강제력을 지니지 못한다는 한계를 지녔다. 그러므로 이를 해결한 국제규범이 필요하다는 국제사회의 합의가 도출되었다. 이에따라 국제해사기구(IMO)의 해사안전위원회(MSC)와 해양환경보호위원회(MEPC)를 중심으로 ‘극지해역 운항선박기준(Polar Code)’이 제정되었고, 이는 2017년 1월 1일부로 발효되었다. 극지해역 운항선박기준(Polar Code)은 극지해역의 특수성을 반영한 최초의 상세규범이자 법적강제력을 지닌 강행규범으로서 가치를 지닌다. 극지해역 운항선박기준(Polar Code)의 내용적 구성은 안전조치를 위한 PARTI과 오염방지조치를 위한 PART II로 이루어져있으며, 구조적 구성은 각 PART별로 강행규범인 A편과 권고규범인 B편으로 이루어져있다. 그러므로 이 논문에서는 극지해역 운항선박기준(Polar Code)이 지니는 중요성을 인식한 채, 안전부문, 보안부문, 해양환경보호부문으로 나누어 기준을 면밀히 분석하도록 할 것이다. 이에 따라 극지해역의 특수성을 잘 반영하였는지, 극지해역의 안전과 환경보호라는 목적의 실효성을 충실히 수행할 수 있는지를 중점적으로 살펴볼 것이다. 또한 이러한 과정 속에서 극지해역 운항선박기준(Polar Code)이 지니는 한계점을 살펴보도록 할 것이다. 극지해역으로의 선박유입량이 점차 증가할 것임을 고려할 때, 극지해역의 선박안전과 환경보호에 대한 국제규범이 지니는 중요성 또한 점차 높아질 것으로 사료된다. 따라서 앞에서 살펴본 한계점을 보완할 수 있는 개선방안을 제시하도록 할 것이다.
State of the Art: Sustainability Integration in the Luxury Fashion Industry Introduction to Luxury Fashion ‘Luxury’, which comes from the Latin word ‘luxus’, refers to exaggerated life, glamour, comfort and wealth (Dubois, Czellar & Laurent, 2005). In the ancient world, luxury was associated with wealth, exclusivity, and power. After the 17th century, European countries’ economic democratization contributed to the reduction of existing sumptuary laws. Trade increased and larger segments of the population began to afford luxury products. Consequently, luxury moved from being limited to serve the common good to being a satisfaction of private needs. At the end of the 19th century, following the second industrial revolution, luxury earned its modern meaning of being enjoyable beyond the necessities of life (Fionda and Moore, 2009). The democratization of luxury resulted in mass luxury in which luxury brands have extended themselves to affordable offerings (Cristini et al., 2017). Luxury was long associated with the premium quality (Brun and Castelli, 2013), whereas today the technical reproduction of luxury is indulged by mass-produced brands (Cristini et al, 2017). Thus, one could argue that commercial drivers have taken over the industry whereby executives are increasingly seeking ways to transform creativity into profitability. Accordingly, the luxury market has experienced noticeable growth. The global luxury goods market reached a value of € 1.081B, with a growth rate of 4%, in 2016 (Bain & Company, 2016). Nevertheless, despite growth and high profit margins, the global fashion market is affected by macroeconomic, socio-political and natural events. For example, the short-term doubling in cotton prices brought many problems in 2011. Furthermore, scarce natural resources and rising commodity prices greatly challenge the ability of luxury fashion companies to remain profitable. The new luxury paradigm of being more accessible challenges not only sustainability but also operational aspects. The reputation of the luxury industry suffers from consumer concerns over poor labour standards in production, blood diamonds, irresponsible gold-mining practices and animal cruelty in global production networks (Hennigs et al, 2013; Moore, 2011). We therefore question how and to what extent luxury could play a positive role in our mass-consuming generation to slow down the pace for materialism and to better implement sustainability in globally dispersed production networks. Whilst sociologists, marketing and branding experts, have shown interest in luxury management, researchers in the field of operations and supply chain management have paid little attention to the topic: the first paper in the field appeared less than a decade ago (Brun et al., 2008), and furthermore, as of January 2017, there appear to be only 87 papers published in Scopus-indexed journals with ‘‘supply chain OR oper*’’ AND ‘’luxury’’ in the keywords. Henceforth, the current financial, environmental, economic and cultural crises could be considered significant drivers for how luxury operations could be advanced in the move toward sustainability. The focus of this paper is luxury personal goods such as fashion and accessories. The Relevance of Sustainability for Luxury Fashion Following the supply chain revolution of the 1990’s (Mohanty and Prakash, 2013) and the removal of the Multi-Fibre Arrangement in 2005, the fashion industry has become a global force in production and distribution. Globalisation has led to increasing outsourcing of production by fashion companies to a network of suppliers and subcontractors. The industry is characterized by shorter product life cycles and highly volatile market demand (Choi, 2013) alongside downward price pressure, international sourcing, high product variety and low predictability (Perry and Towers, 2013). To this end, fashion companies rely on sophisticated information and logistics systems to remain competitive in the market. Nonetheless, the fashion industry is somewhat inflexible toward major external changes outside the organizations’ direct control (Kozlowski et al., 2015). There is also a potential conflict between corporate responsibility and overarching commercial pressures in the fashion industry (Perry et al., 2015). According to the definition of sustainable development by The United Nations World Commission on Environment and Development (WCED, 1987), current needs should be met without endangering future generations’ rights to satisfy theirs. Luxury fashion companies must therefore acknowledging resource scarcity and other sustainability issues, and take collective actions for an authentic shift to create unique and sustainable businesses. To be profitable and sustainable, “luxury companies must adjust their definition of excellence that is no longer associated with shallow glamour but with positive engagement and deeper values” (Hennigs et al, 2013, p.33). An Overview of Sustainable Supply Chain Management (SSCM) Sustainability in SCM has captured academics’ interest since the early 1990s. Despite the growing interest, some fundamental issues still need to be addressed to provide novel models. The majority of the practices that make up green supply chain management (GSCM) models are modifications of existing practices (Pagell and Wu, 2009). However, earlier studies also stress that these programs might not be sufficient to become sustainable. Hence, it would be insightful to examine which components and which practices are required to make ‘sustainable’ chains. Social sustainability also requires deeper consideration. Wu and Pagell (2011) investigated how organizations deal with short-term pressures to remain economically viable during sustainability implementation, but did not consider social aspects of sustainability. Lee and Klassen (2008) identified the important drivers and enablers which promote environmental management capabilities in SME suppliers, but did not address social sustainability or specific measures for suppliers’ environmental management capabilities. Zhu and Cote (2004) and Vachon and Klassen (2006) demonstrated how to extend green practices, but again social aspects were not encompassed. Similarly, Caniato et al (2012) identified drivers that push companies to adopt green practices, various practices that could be used to advance environmental sustainability and environmental performance indicators measured by fashion companies. However, the social component was excluded. The recognition of corporate social responsibility (CSR) as a business activity is highlighted by the launch of ISO 26000; nonetheless, as illustrated earlier, extant SCM literature has mostly neglected the social aspects of sustainability. Despite a number of studies on aspects including social responsibility and consumer trust (Castaldo et al., 2008), sustainability reporting (Lozano and Huisingh, 2011), sustainable supply management (Ageron, Gunasekaran, & Spalanzani, 2012), and supplier selection problems (Jia et al., 2015), social issues demand more investigation (Perry and Towers, 2013). Sustaining an efficient global supply chain without compromising social responsibility (Perry et al., 2015). Embedding social and environmental management into SCM is needed yet challenging. Significant progress has been made in studies of the buyer-supplier relationship over the past decades, however despite some notable exceptions on green SCM (Zhu and Cote 2004; Zhu et al. 2008; Yu et al. 2014), the development of SSCM literature appears to focus on a single entity rather than the entire chain or network. Social and environmental performance of suppliers is an area of mounting concern, and collectively, sufficient coordination between supply chain partners is greatly needed. Many small and medium-sized suppliers encounter challenges in responding to environmental pressures due to limited capabilities and available resources (Lee and Klassen, 2008), and the most critical environmental and social issues in supply chains are generated by suppliers located in the second tier or further upstream (Tachizawa and Wong, 2014). Therefore, a holistic examination of the entire chain is required. In this vein, Pagell and Wu (2009) examined the chain as an entirety by explicitly addressing both environmental and social outcomes and by asking what unique behavioural patterns are needed for SSCM. However, the adoption of some of the practices is quite limited, which suggests the existence of additional contingencies. Their study called for future studies to explore the role of specific industries e.g. textiles. To this end, Ho and Choi (2012) investigated why fashion companies go green and evaluated sustainable supply chains. Nevertheless, the study was a single case study and did not consider potential differences in terms of antecedents affecting small and large companies. Curwen et al. (2013), interestingly, sought to document current challenges the fashion and apparel industry faces while developing sustainable apparel. Yet again, an imperative need arises to further explore the connections among product design, production processes and supply chain stages through a multidisciplinary approach. On the whole, the phenomena of sustainability has been interpreted in a variety of ways, ranging from a philosophical perspective to business management approaches (Ahi and Searcy, 2013), but more research is needed to show more than how to be ‘less unsustainable’. Traditional business research must go beyond studies focusing on profit with a rather short-term orientation and instead embrace components of how to create truly sustainable businesses. Considering the aforementioned gaps observed in the extant literature, the following research questions were formulated to investigate the phenomena of social and environmental sustainability at supply chain level within the luxury context, where ethical aspects are becoming increasingly critical for success (Brun and Castelli, 2013). RQ1: How do luxury fashion companies integrate sustainability into their supply networks? RQ2: How do contingent factors impact sustainability integration in luxury fashion supply networks? RQ3: Which behavioural patterns could be used to develop a sustainable supply chain configuration for the luxury fashion industry? Research Methodology Data was drawn from case studies of two Italian supply chains producing luxury silk and leather goods, encompassing 10 companies, with a focus on the individual supply chain as the level of analysis. These two supply chain were theoretically sampled to provide diversity in organizational characteristics and supply network relationships that could explain different approaches to the integration of sustainability into the entire chain. The research design followed Yin (1994) and previous studies in operations and SCM. Face to face interviews were conducted with senior managers of different functions in each supply chain during 2015-16. In most of the companies, responsibility for sustainability was divided and integrated into the jobs of multiple managers, meaning that there was no single individual assigned to sustainability. Additionally, the managers interviewed were often in charge of one or more functions, which helped reduce the number of interviews but increased interview content. The interview topic guide was developed from the literature review, and the theoretical constructs underpinning the interview protocol were then used to create an initial coding scheme for data. Data analysis was done inductively, by developing a framework from the cases while exploiting the theoretical concepts in the categorization of codes. The coding process was followed for all cases as an iterative process to assure consistency. Coding was not considered complete until a consensus was reached on each construct. Data analysis involved within and cross-case analysis. Results: Toward a Framework for Sustainable Luxury Supply Chains This study explored the luxury fashion industry from supply chain and operations management standpoint. Findings revealed seven key categories by which luxury fashion companies integrated environmental and social sustainability into their operations: Category 1: Sustainable product design, Category 2: Operations management, Category 3: Performance measurement, Category 4: Sourcing management, Category 5: Decent work and labour management, Category 6: Commitment to sustainability and organisational perceptions and Category 7: Longevity of suppliers. Firstly, natural resource scarcity was acknowledged by all 10 companies. To this end, some practices, including use of eco-friendly materials, hazardous chemical elimination, textile waste reuse, were applied to the fashion design stage with an attempt to mitigate the environmental impact of subsequent operations. Life cycle assessment (LCA was observed to be a significant tool among sample companies. Nonetheless, higher investment costs to employ more innovative solutions and to advance laboratory tests, higher prices for more ecological materials, and lack of knowledge in terms of fibre and textile components due to supply chain complexity prevented companies from advancing product stewardship. Regarding operations management, water emerged as a significant area where sample companies implemented incremental techniques, including natural tanning, on-site wastewater treatment, water purification and water reuse. Nevertheless, vertical integration, which was getting weaker in the luxury fashion industry, resulted in fashion companies having difficulties in the execution of their suppliers’ environmental performance. Practices implemented in this category were individual company attempts rather than collective action plans. It was not quite feasible to mitigate the environmental impact of independent networks where the buying firm outsourced its business functions to third party suppliers. In order to deal with lack of control and monitoring, sustainability must be understood as a concept to be integrated into the core business strategy with measurable indicators. Furthermore, traceability emerged as a pivotal topic. However, the complexity of global luxury fashion supply chains brought complications. Both supply chains showed that there was lack of knowledge about products’ production history. Due to globalization, countries with low operational costs appeared to leverage their competitive advantage. Changing market conditions resulted in the loss of, for example, silk production in Italy. Silkworm cultivation did not take place in Italy any longer, resulting in confusion regarding outsourced materials’ environmental and social records. High product variety and fragmentation of the production network made it difficult for companies to ensure full traceability. To this end, trust and knowledge transfer were weak, which could be improved to link non-economic goals with financial objectives. Another interesting result was that supplier audits were mostly made within first tier direct suppliers’ facilities. In some cases suppliers were provided with online self-assessment tools that were monitored by buying firms. Yet, buying firms and manufacturers required more efficient inspection methods and more realistic mitigation strategies. Ensuring social sustainability is hindered by complications such as lack of visibility and financial burdens. Consequently, technical and motivational dynamic capability development needed to be proactively initiated by focal companies. As stressed by earlier studies, sustainability must be a shared effort within all functions of a company and across its supply network. Sustainability could be disseminated across the chain only when all supply chain actors, including retailers, suppliers and sub-contractors, connect, understand and collaborate with each other. Correspondingly, it became clear that sustainability management required strong organizational commitment for which an alignment between financial and non-financial goals was greatly required. Hence, education and training activities received growing attention. In conclusion, the sample companies asked their supply chain partners to become sustainable for two main reasons, (i) to make the chain stronger, and (ii) to jointly learn and improve performance. Long-term relationships and supplier stability, as evidenced in the leather supply chains, could cultivate trust, which would result in advanced organizational and operational performance improvements. Supplier engagement and collaboration associated with knowledge dissemination could further enable companies to improve sustainability, and lastly innovation capabilities were imperative.
The New Product Development (NPD) in the textile industry is peculiar, as it follows constraints that are particular to the fashion business. A qualitative study comprising 45 interviews were conducted in a South American textile industry and results showcase that fashion forecast, pressure for newness, and cost reduction are relevant matters.
Introduction
The textile industry follows a particular cycle for New Product Development (NPD) as it answers the demand from the fashion industry. Fashion supply chain is fragmented, as the production process is fragmented with companies playing different roles in the production cycle. There are companies that uses the raw material to produce yarns that will be transformed into fabrics, which then it is transformed into clothes, through process that may be a single sewing to complex process that demands intermediate process such as industrial washes. These clothes are sold to consumers through various selling channels, such as stores, retailers, e-commerce, and even door-to-door. Usually one company plays only one of these roles in the supply chain, what makes the production plan to be fragmented amongst several different companies in the supply chain (Şen, 2008). After globalization, this supply chain became even more complex as each chain may be located in different parts of the world, due to production costs and optimization. This scenario results in a supply chain that demands several planning skills, that works, sometimes, with extensive production cycles. (Thomassey, 2014). But, as Christopher, Lowson, & Peck (2004) noted, the supply chain in the fashion business must be agile to respond to changes in demand from consumers, which often occurs, and it can be also very complex as clothing is a way for consumers to either differentiate or fit in society, and the rules to be in or out of society patterns changes fast (Cholachatpinyo, Fletcher, Padgett, & Crocker, 2002a, 2002b).
Due to this complexity and richness of information, the production cycle in fashion business has been extensively studied in the literature (Alexander & Contreras, 2016; Aung & Sha, 2016; Oxborrow & Brindley, 2014) but authors often use a wide perspective to grasp an overview of the supply chain they are studying, using market data and information, or gathering general information from companies that are present in the fashion supply chain. Authors focused their analysis in the supply chain itself, and we could not find studies that focused on the perspective of the product development task in the challenging context of fashion business. There are some characteristics from the fashion business that differentiate New Product Development (NPD) from a classical Business to Business (B2B) scenario. In a brief description of the fashion business production system, we see that it starts with the production of raw materials that varies from natural fibers (e.g. cotton, silk, linen) or artificial fibers (e.g. polyester, nylon, elastane) that are then spinning into threads that may contain one or more different fibers. These threads are then transformed into fabrics through several different weaving techniques, and then it may go through some finishing treatments (e.g. dying, washing), and then it goes to garment manufacturing where garment makers produce clothes for their own brands or for third-parties brands. These clothes are then sold to consumers through various channels (e.g. retail stores, electronic stores). If we analyze this brief description we can see that fashion may influence in all parts of the production cycle, including the demand for raw materials: if denim products are in vogue, then there is a growing demand for cotton products, if sportswear is in vogue, then the demand improves for artificial fibers, and so on. One other thing that should be noted is that usually each part of the production cycle is performed by a different company: the most common scenario we see in the textile industry includes companies that produce only threads, and sell these threads to textile companies that produce fabrics to sell to garment makers that produces clothes to sell to brands to sell them to consumers. There are some companies that integrates two or more parts of the production cycles but they are the exception, not the rule. This fragmented production process combined with the fashion influence result in long production cycles: a designer’s idea may take from three to eighteen months to be available to consumers, depending on the production channels assessed by the designer.
These characteristics showcase how NPD in the fashion business may be complex and therefore it should be investigated further in the literature, and this is the objective of this study. In order to do that, we researched the specific literature in NPD that is vastly discussed in literature as it is responsible for creating, managing and releasing products that are both appealing to customers and profitable to the company. (Brown & Eisenhardt, 1995). Understanding what makes an NP succeed in the market has been on the marketing agenda for a long time, including the fashion business (Alexander & Contreras, 2016; Clarke, 2012; Thompson & Haytko, 1997). One interesting point of view is to understand the predecessors of NP success in the market. Henard & Szymanski (2001) conducted a meta-analysis of 60 studies focused on the antecedents of NP success and proposed a list of 24 predictors of NP performance, which they grouped into four categories: (i) product characteristics, (ii) firm strategy characteristics, (iii) firm process characteristics and (iv) marketplace characteristics. We selected the most relevant predecessors discussed by Henard & Szymanski (2001) and Song & Xie (2000) to use as a basis for a script for interviews with NPD professionals.
Methodology
We conducted in-depth interviews with 45 professionals from different areas that participate in, or are impacted by, NPD process in a South American textile industry. From now on we will call this company “Southex”. These interviews offered a deep understanding of the perspective of NPD professionals, both insiders (professional that work in the NPD team) or outsiders (professional from departments that work as an internal supplier or client for the NPD team). Southex is one of the biggest textile producers in the world, with producing units in Latin America, commercial offices in Europe, Asia, and America. Sales are over U$ 1 bi/year, and the company employed more than 8,000 people in 2012, when this study was performed. Their main market is Latin America where fashion seasons are in opposition to the ones in the North part of the globe, home of the fashion trendsetters for global macro trends (Europe, USA, and Japan). This leads to a one-year postponement of fashion trends, so when something is released as a fashion trend for summer in Europe, it will be considered a trend for summer one year later in Latin America. Southex NPD team had 12 exclusively dedicated professionals as of 2012. Southex launches products in the market with the concept of collections, when the company releases a group of NPs in the market. Every year, the company releases two collections in the market. It usually takes up to six months for NPD team to complete and launch a new collection. Research into fashion trends, commercial needs and technological improvements available in the market are the main sources the company uses to develop NP. Prior to launching a product in the market, the NPD team needs to test its production process in order to guarantee that the product can be produced on a large scale at competitive costs. Every collection is launched as a sample of fabrics that will be produced 4-6 months in the future. If a collection is released in January, the products that Southex is launching will start to be produced in June. So their clients, mainly garment makers and fashion brands, need to coordinate their production chain to start receiving these fabrics after June. Considering the production cycle in these garment makers, it is estimated that the clothing produced with the fabric launched by Southex in January will be delivered to retail stores (and then available to the consumer) in November, almost one year after Southex has launched the fabric in the market.
In order to gather a deep perspective of all matters related to NPD we interview 45 professionals, totaling over 1,600 hours of recorded interviews. 12 insiders, comprising 100% of the team available at that moment, and 33 outsiders from departments such as Marketing, Sales, and Technical Support. Their positions ranged from analysts to directors.. All interviews followed a predefined script of topics. Interviews were transcribed and sent to the corresponding professional for validation, during which they could ask for adjustments. 12 professionals asked for changes in the transcription and we used the changed and approved text, together with the 33 unchanged texts in this analysis.
Results and Discussion
All texts were then codified according to content, which involved identifying similar topics and applying codes to facilitate analysis of the interviews. Using the predecessors of NP success has facilitated our understanding of the matters related to NPD at Southex. By formatting the presentation of information gathered in the interviews with the predecessors we were able to see the main issues found in NPD. In total, there were 421 mentions codified. After analyzing the codification of the interviews, we can see that Cross function is the main topic addressed by respondents. This is due to the relationship that the flow of NPD activities in the company. As we can see, there were several issues related to the relationship of NP team with the outsiders and that communication amongst insiders and outsiders needs to be improved.
There are some context-specific content that appeared as relevant in the analysis of these interviews: insiders are worried with the pressure they feel to forecast fashion preference for products. They say that fashion industry is constantly demanding new technologies, new products, and this has been creating a pressure to accelerate product development they think it is not healthy to the system. Also there is a general worry (insiders and outsiders) with the pressure for price reduction in basic products. Some products are considered basic and are included for several collections (interviewees mentioned that some products are included in more than 15 successive collections) and for these products instead of demanding for innovation, there is a demand for price reduction which leads outsiders to perform tests to substitute materials or changes in the production to reduce costs without prior knowledge from NPD team, which causes several problems in the organization.
It is important to point out that even though we used only one company in this study, it was a complete and deep perspective, as we were able to collect high quality data with all 45 professionals that are directly or indirectly related to NPD in the company. Also, as Southex works as a thread and fabric producer, it showed us an insider perspective about the textile supply chain in the fashion business. Even though the exploratory study presented the reality of a firm in an extensive and very detailed way, it may not reflect the full complexity of other organizations in the market; thus, caution is advised if applied in a market that differs deeply from the scenario presented in this study. However, it is also important to remember that this is a qualitative approach where generalization is not expected, and the attention for details is important.
Current seismic design provisions such as ASCE 7-10 provide criteria for selecting ground motions for conducting response history analysis. This study is the sequel of a companion paper (I – Ground Motion Selection) for assessment of the ASCE 7-10 criteria. To assess of the ASCE 7-10 criteria, nonlinear response history analyses of twelve single degree of freedom (SDF) systems and one multi-degree of freedom (MDF) system are conducted in this study. The results show that the target seismic demands for SDF can be predicted using the mean seismic demands over seven and ten ground motions selected according to the proposed method within an error of 30% and 20%, respectively
본 연구에서는 막 결합형 축전식 탈염공정에 적용을 위해 폴리비닐플루오라이드를 고분자 지지체로 사용하여 양이 온 및 음이온교환수지를 배합하여 제작된 불균질 이온교환막을 탄소전극에 결합하여 염 제거 효율을 알아보고자 하였다. 불균 질 이온교환막의 배합 조건은 용매, 고분자 지지체, 이온교환수지를 7 : 2 : 1의 무게 비율로 하였으며 탄소전극에 직접 캐스팅 하였다. 운전조건으로 공급액은 주로 NaCl 수용액에 대하여 흡착전압, 시간, 공급액의 농도, 유속, 탈착전압, 시간 등에 대하여 염 제거 효율을 측정하였으며 이 외에 CaCl2과 MgSO4 수용액에 대하여서도 측정하였다. 대표적으로 NaCl 100 mg/L 용액의 15 mL/min에서 1.5 V, 3분의 흡착조건, -0.1 V, 3분의 탈착조건에서 98%의 염 제거 효율을 보였으며, CaCl2과 MgSO4는 100 mg/L, 15 mL/min에서 1.2 V, 3분의 흡착조건, -0.5 V, 5분의 탈착조건에서 각각 70, 59%의 염 제거 효율을 보였다.
이 연구의 목적은 사범 대학 과학교육학부에 재학 중인 예비 과학 교사들을 대상으로 고등학교에서의 지구과학 선택 과목의 이수 여부와 대학 전공이 일반지구과학 수업에 대한 태도, 학업 성취도에 미치는 영향을 분석하는 것이다. 이 연구의 대상은 광역시 소재 대학교 과학교육학부 소속의 학생들 중 2012년 2학기부터 2015년 2학기까지 총 4개 학 기 동안 일반지구과학 강의를 수강한 273명의 학생들이다. 현재 전공과 고등학교 지구과학 교과목 이수 여부가 일반지 구과학 수업에 대한 태도 및 시험 체감 난이도, 학업 성취도에 미치는 영향을 SPSS 23.0을 활용하여 이원분산분석 (two-way ANOVA)을 실시하였다. 연구 결과에 따르면, 지구과학교육 전공 학생들과 타 과학교육전공 학생들 사이에는 일반지구과학 수업에 대한 태도와 시험 체감 난이도에 대해서 차이가 없었지만, 고등학교에서 지구과학의 이수 여부는 학생들의 태도와 성취도에 영향을 미쳤다. 즉, 고등학교에서 지구과학 I과 지구과학 II를 모두 이수한 학생은 지구과학 I만 이수한 학생 또는 지구과학을 전혀 선택하지 않은 학생들보다 일반지구과학 수업 태도가 더 좋았으며 높은 성취 수 준을 보이는 것으로 분석되었다. 과학 교사를 양성하는 사범 대학의 교육에서는 학생들의 요구와 수준을 반영한 교수학습적 접근이 필요하며, 과학 교사로서 필요한 교과 지식을 효과적으로 학습할 수 있도록 사범 대학 과학과 교육과정의 지속적인 보완이 있어야 할 것이다.
This study aimed to investigate the perception and preferences related to Korean food according to the ethnicity of university students in Yanbian, China. Korean food was preferred by Korean-Chinese as compared with Chinese students, and Korean-Chinese students preferred Korean food more than Chinese food. Both Korean-Chinese and Chinese preferred Korean food more than traditional Chosun food. More Korean-Chinese than Chinese students had positive perceptions of Korean food, which included foods made with jang, kimchi smell, and healthiness due to diversity. For evaluation of Korean food taste, more Chinese than Korean-Chinese subjects thought Korean food is not greasy and hoped salty taste. Both awareness and preferences related to Korean food were significantly higher in Korean-Chinese than Chinese students. Meat foods (so-galbi, dak-galbi, jang-jorim) were relatively high in terms of preference in both Korean-Chinese and Chinese students. Moreover, Chinese students preferred Korean traditional foods (sujeonggwa, yakgwa, gangjeong). In Korean- Chinese students, Korean representative traditional foods (kimchi, jangajji) and Korean traditional holiday foods (tteokguk, mandu-guk) were relatively low in terms of preference. This study found that the traditional food culture of Korean-Chinese has been maintained in Yanbian, whereas there is a change in the young generation.
We present the characteristics and the performance of the new CCD camera system, SNUCAM- II (Seoul National University CAMera system II) that was installed on the Lee Sang Gak Telescope (LSGT) at the Siding Spring Observatory in 2016. SNUCAM-II consists of a deep depletion chip covering a wide wavelength from 0.3 μm to 1.1 μm with high sensitivity (QE at > 80% over 0.4 to 0.9 μm). It is equipped with the SDSS ugriz lters and 13 medium band width (50 nm) lters, enabling us to study spectral energy distributions (SEDs) of diverse objects from extragalactic sources to solar system objects. On LSGT, SNUCAM-II offers 15.7 15.7 arcmin eld-of-view (FOV) at a pixel scale of 0.92 arcsec and a limiting magnitude of g = 19.91 AB mag and z=18.20 AB mag at 5σ with 180 sec exposure time for point source detection.
인수공통 감염증의 하나인 톡소포자충의 검출을 위해서는 대부분은 ELISA 법이 사용 되고 있으나, 충체가 사멸 된 후에도 양성반응이 나타나는 등 사용에 제한이 있다. 반면 유전자 검출법은 현재 감염상태를 확인 할 수 있기 때문에 식중독 원인조사 등에 적합하다고 판단되어 이를 활용하여 본 연구를 진행하였다. 톡소포자충의 유전정보를 통해 529 repeat region의 염기서열을 얻고, 프라이머 및 TaqMan 프로브를 설계하여 real-time PCR을 이용한 검 출법을 개발하였다. 검출한계(lower limit of detection) 및 적정곡선을 확인한 결과 10 genomic DNA copy가 검출한 계로 확인되었고, 정량을 위한 곡선은 101~106 DNA copies 까지 0.999의 R2값을 나타내었다. 개발된 검출법의 증폭효 율을 비교하기 위해 B1 gene 타겟 프라이머 세트와 타입 별 검출한계를 비교한 결과, type 1, 2, 3 톡소포자충에서 같거나 더 나은 검출한계를 보였다. 또한 식품에서 주로 분리되는 식중독 세균 14종 및 원충 3종에 대해 특이도를 비교한 결과, 모두 음성으로 나타났다. 개발된 검출법을 식육검체에 적용하였을 때 type 1, 2, 3에서 모두 원활한 검출결과를 보여 증폭방해물질이 존재하지 않은 것으로 확인되었다. 본 연구를 통해 개발된 유전자검출법은 국내 유통 중인 식육에서 인수 공통감염 원충의 하나인 톡소포 자충의 감염 여부를 확인하는 사전적 모니터링의 방법으로 활용될 예정이다.
본 연구는 예술치료 개념을 도입한 한국형 타로카드를 개발하고자 하 였다. 본 연구의 연구목적을 달성하기 위해 연구 범위는 다음과 같이 설 정 하였다.
I장에서는 연구의 필요성과 목적에 대해 설명하고 연구문제의 범위와 방법에 대해 기술하였다.
II장에서는 우리나라 문화, 정서에 맞는 타로개발로 자국의 정체성 확 립과 더불어, 예술치료 현장에서 보조도구로 활용할 수 있도록 예술치료 의 개념을 도입한 한국형 타로 카드 78장의 작품 개발의 제작 의도를 밝 혔다. 또한 제작 과정 및 방법에 대해 설명하고 메이저 카드에는 각 카드 마다 이미지를 설명하고 의미를 분석하였다. 그리고 마이너 카드는 이미 지와 간단한 색채와 4원소의 상징에 대해 언급하였다.
III장 결과에서는 한국형 타로가 타로 리딩 현장에서 사례에 제시되었 을 때의 반응에 대해 언급하였고 한국형 타로의 후속 연구에 대한 제언 을 하였다
마지막으로 위의 연구를 바탕으로 한 예술치료 개념을 도입한 한국형 타로를 통해 한국의 역사와 전통을 되돌아볼 수 있는 기회가 되고, 많은 서양식 타로의 발달 속에서 새로운 변화로 성장하는 계기가 마련되길 바 란다. 또한 한국형 타로가 한국인의 사고, 감정, 행동을 이해하고 내면의 표현 도구로 예술치료 현장에서 활용할 수 있는 보조 매체로서의 역할을 기대해 본다.
During the harvest season, drying and storage facilities at Rice Processing Complexes (RPCs) are not enough to manage all the harvested rice, which causes quality deterioration and decomposition. Also, rice export is being limited due to the high cost of long-term storage for shipping. This study was conducted to investigate the germination rate, fat acidity and lipoxygenase activity of brown rice after storage of 3, 6, 9 and 12 months at 25oC and 35oC with 22 Korean and 2 Japanese varieties. Germination rate of rough rice was decreased to 72% after storage of 9 months at 25°C and decreased to 35 and 33% after 3 and 6 months at 25°C, respectively. Fat acidity was increased according to storage periods and increasing level was higher at 35°C than at 25°C. Lipoxygenase activity was decreased according to storage periods and decreasing level was higher at 35°C than at 25°C. Although the protein content was not significantly different according to the storage period at both 25 and 35°C, significant difference existed among cultivars. Amylose content was increased until 6 months at both 25 and 35°C, but decreased after 9 months. Fat acidity and protein content were negatively correlated with amylose content, while amylose content was positively correlated with lipoxygenase activity after 12 months at 25°C. Germination rate was negatively correlated with fat acidity and protein content, while fat acidity was positively correlated with protein content and negatively correlated with amylose content and lipoxygenase activity after 6 months at 35°C. 24 varieties were classified into 3 groups on the basis of germination rate, fat acidity and lipoxygenase activity after 12 months at 25°C and 6 months at 35°C. Group I including 8 varieties of Koshihikari showed higher germination rate, lower fat acidity than Group II including 11 varieties of Nampyeongbyeo.. Honong and Jinbaek. Hopyeongbyeo and Hopum showed higher germination rate, lower fat acidity at 35°C than 25°C, while Hwanggeumnuri showed higher germination rate, lower fat acidity at 25°C than 35°C.
본고는 근세로 이행하는 시기의 이탈리아에서 제작되었던 예술작품들이 단순히 예술적 의도로만 제작되지 않았음을 밝힌다. 15세기 후반 무렵, 피렌체의 예술이 볼로냐로 퍼져나가 어떻게 반 응하였는지를 살피고, 볼로냐를 통치한 조반니 벤티볼리오 2세가 주도한 도시 프로젝트를 통해 그 가 활용했던 황제의 이미지가 공공장소에서 주는 효과, 그리고 사적인 공간인 개인 예배당에서 그의 교양이 예술 속에서 어떠한 정치적 메시지를 던지는 지를 분석한다. 정치사상가로서의 단테의 『제정론』에 근거해 조반니 2세가 추구하려 했던 정치적 이상향을 밝히고 나아가 군주로서의 조반 니 2세의 풍부한 이미지 창출 능력을 재평가하여 북부 이탈리아의 르네상스 예술에 대한 관심을 불러일으키는데 그 의의를 둔다.